gr5

You have a few choices. One choice is to add a tower that is slightly taller than the part - that way your part will have a little time to cool while printing the tower. Another choice is to rotate this print 90 degrees so it is flatter to the bed. This might make one side ugly and that might be a problem for you. But it would give all areas of the print plenty of time to cool down. The problem is probably also related to the extreme overhang so printing it "flat" could really help a lot.

combing mode: no skin This disables combing on top and bottom layers - layers that are visible but keeps it enabled for internal layers. Like I said above - type "comb" in the search box - this will show you settings that are hidden as well. The search box is just above all the settings and just below the profile drop down.

Yes. Perfect. Except the CW and CCW are as seen from above. I always think of it as seen from below. I always think of CW as tightening a screw so for me I would reverse all those CW and CCW but I think your understanding is perfect here. The very first picture in the second post is a perfect example of nozzle too far. And it's right next to the rear screw so I would only turn that scew. You really need to use some glue. The yellow tape idea is fine but then you need to remove the wax - use isopropyl alcohol on that yellow painter's tape and that will work fine but glass with glue is better. The glue stick by itself gives you a very thick layer of glue. Basically the thinner the layer of glue the better the bonding. I don't know why. Obviously, at some point it's so thin it doesn't exist. Glue stick spread with wet paper towel works great. There may indeed be oils in soap which is why I always wash the glass a second time with glass cleaner. I should have mentioned about possible oils in soap in the video :(

I've never changed the material with the menu - at least not in the last year. I have one of these: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/wedgebot-for-ultimaker2 I just pull out one filament and push in another. Anyway - to your issue - when your print finishes - the printer is supposed to let the head cool to 180C and then it retracts the filament quite a bit - almost to the top of the "trumpet" of the print core. That is probably where the failure is occurring. Not on filament change. I think you can abort that step if you are in a rush to get your print out at the end of a print. Did you force the printer to skip that step? Also what material were you using when this happened? I noticed that the UM3 always seems to use 180C no matter what material is in there (so far that I've noticed). So what material was this?

I really doubt the brand of filament matters. I'm not sure how filament residue gets above the teflon - that's the bowden tube. I guess if you increase retraction distance too much that could happen. When a print is over, when the head is still hot, if you retract manually or automatically, you get a string of filament at the end. That can end up in the bowden tube if you later pull the filament out but it breaks off in the feeder and the next piece of filament inserted pushes it back into the end of the bowden. I liked the older version of the UM2 where it had a spring where the aluminum spacer is now. You could see if there were bits of filament at the base of the bowden. Now having said that - I've never had a problem with bits of filament at the top of the teflon part so this is a new issue on me and I've been reading this forum for about 5 years. Is your "third fan" working? The one at the rear of the print head? It probably only turns on after the nozzle is above 40C. When that breaks you get intermittent unexplained clogging. Anyway, next time you have the problem, remove the bowden from the head and look down into the head to see if there are bits of filament at the top of the teflon coupler.

160% will usually chew up the filament and cause a print failure. You should never go above 120% and if you are going above 110% you are compensating for some issue that you should be fixing instead. I'm still confused because you have some layers on the cone that look pretty good (not underextruded anyway) and other layers that are heavily underextruded. Something is intermittent. I would check your nozzle temp during a print to see if you have widely varying temperatures. The underextruded layers might just be too cold. Also my idea about the bed falling doesn't make sense since your bed doesn't go up and down. Also maybe you are getting filament tangles. Sometimes one loop gets under another and you get a problem "forever". The fix is to remove the filament from the printer, unspool a few feet and correct the tanngle, then without letting go of the end of the filament, reload the filament into the printer.

These "errors" in the red print are very tiny - much smaller than the eye should be able to see. So how do we see it? With glint. Having a light bulb in the ceiling and holding the piece such that tiny changes in angle have large changes in contrast which let you see these errors. You don't see the errors in the gray because it doesn't have the same kind of shiny sheen to it. It's more Matte. Also, it's a lighter color making the glint have less contrast. So one solution is to spray paint your prints. First coat should be a primer - I like automobile primers which are designed to stick to both metal and plastic. Then use a Matte color on top.

reversing the wires. lol. I have a UMO with the HBK. Does your UMO have the white circuit board? Or the green one? This makes a big difference. Does your print head have a little tiny circuit board on top? Did the HBK ever work? Or did things go south the moment you upgraded? You could try uploading the old firmware to make sure the head still works. Please answer the questions and if you have the green circuit board with the add on HBK board please photograph the add on board. Which firmware builder are you using? This one? https://bultimaker.bulles.eu/ Typically the head uses a thermocouple "AD595" and the bed with the official HBK uses a PT100. It's important if you have the green board that you remove any 4.7K resistor you may have added - if you have the green pcb please also take a photo of the area where the bed temp sensor plugs in (that shows the nearby components).

That would be a very complicated feature for something that I couldn't use for any of the thousands of print's I've made in the past. but pretty cool. To make it work on surfaces other than flat surfaces like this it would have to have a 3d model of the print head. So if someone modified their printer (say added a larger fan) they would have to avoid this feature.

Look at the part in xray view. If you see any red then that si the problem. Is it your own part or is it someone elses? If it is yours, then what CAD software did you use? Please show a photo of what the part looks like in the 3 views: normal/xray/slice

ABS! Difficult material - are you sure you don't want to print PLA? It's a newer, better material for most applications. Or if you need high temp materials there are other options like nGen/PET/CPE. Is this a UM3? 3% is about right for ABS on Um3. Or 30% for ABS on a UM2. Basically, if you can print any cooler it will look a bit better (but the part will be weaker but you probably don't mind as if you wanted strong prints you'd probably not be printing ABS - see what I did there? Another dig against ABS). I would try printing 10C cooler (which may start to underextrude and/or layers to split so you might have to enclose the printer in those cases). Make sure walls are at least 2 shells thick and make sure it's printing the inner shell first (it does this by default but I often swap that around) so the inner shell helps hold the outer shell in place. The basic problem is that the filament is like honey as it comes out of the nozzle and shrinks very quickly and it sticks to itself like snot or mucus. It's like a liquid rubber band. And on those outer points it pulls inwards a bit which raises up the outer edges (and you can hear the head smashing into those sometimes) and they look like this in the picture. Sometimes it prints past the edge. Now with PLA you should be able to do that much overhang and it should look much better (and I would say "fan is your friend" and to crank that fan). But with ABS if you add too much fan the layers won't stick and it will start to split along layer lines before the print finishes.

If you have a UM2, some of the settings (distance, speed) are set on the UM2 and not in Cura (normally). For any other printer you can set these in cura.

Order a few teflon couplers. They need replacing quite often. Some people say every 2 or 3 months if you print a lot. If you never print over 200C they last longer. If you print often at 240C they don't last long at all.

That little circuit board can be removed which will make it a little easier to get in there and shake/pry the piece out but it's still covered by a metal box. Still I found it easier to take the board out. If you decide to do this first remove the primary control knob by pushing it off from behind (there is a hoel in the fogged/clear plastic housing just inside the printer - put a screwdriver through that to push the knob off). Then remove the large nut around the shaft for the knob. Then remove the bottom cover - I think 4 screws? 2 screws? Then remove the 2 ribbon cables. Pay attention to where the red stripe goes. Then remove the 4 screws holding the circuit board and gently pull that board and the display out. Be very careful with the display and the connecting wire. I then removed the display - but if you don't know how to use those types of connectors maybe you shouldn't. You have to get a tiny screwdriver in there and there is a part of the connector that slides apart and then the ribbon cable comes out with zero force. If you aren't familiar with these maybe keep the display attached with a rubber band and some protective foam? Then you can clean out the SD card slot.

I'm not sure what you mean. When the bed gets up to temperature they flash about 20 to 50 times per second. Most people don't notice this. Is this what you mean or even when you first turned it on? If it's flashing when you first turn it on (but not the bed heater is off) then it's probably a bad wire or bad LED strip. The wiring can get caught in the belt and pulley system.

Put the SD card in a computer to make sure you can read it. Shine a light in the SD card slot - look for bits of plastic, hair and dust. If you see any try to get it out with a toothpick or simlar. Try putting a vacuum cleaner hose up to the slot to suck out any dust. Use a cell phone with a light next to the camera - turn on the light and use the camera to look inside and look around for dirt, dust, things that shouldn't be in there. I have had to repair a few of these - one had a hair in it, another had a tiny piece of blue plastic in it (which was vary hard to see against the black plastic). Are you using the standard blue SD card that comes with the printer? SanDisk SDHC C4 (or faster) 4GB The "C" in "C4" is almost a complete circle with the 4 inside.

That's severe underextrusion. I don't know the CR-10 so I don't know what would cause it. The most common causes is simply printing too cold or too fast. Too fast might mean simply the layer height is too thick - when I talk about printing speed I multiple nozzle width X speed X layer height. The higher the temp, the less viscous the plastic is and so you can print faster (but quality goes down). Anyway the first thing to try is to print at 1/3 the speed. Another possibility since it seems fine on many layers in a row is that your Z axis is dropping suddenly for no apparent reason. Maybe the Z driver overheats and the bed falls? Does the CR-10 have a bed that goes up and down?

I don't see any photos. Just start a post and drag an image that's on your computer hard drive somewhere onto the post. Or if you have the pictures posted on some internet service and have the url you can click "insert other media".

This is very common and is almost certainly the teflon part. You should have gotten spares with your printer as they really don't last long. They are quite inexpensive. Get the UM ones which are a special type of teflon that is somewhat translucent and lasts longer (more temp resistant). Don't use the completely opaque white ones. A quick fix is to remove the nozzle and drill out the teflon from below. This should improve things for a few more prints while you wait for a new teflon part to arrive. There's a small possibility that your nozzle is getting a layer of gunk on the inside. I don't think this is your issue but the easy check is to swap out the nozzle. If you are getting this the fix is to do lots of cold pulls. Read up on cold pulls (aka atomic pull) and watch some videos to understand it. If changing the teflon and the nozzle do nothing, report back. There are a few dozen other possibilities which I can list out but 95%, from your description, it's the teflon.

It took me about 100 prints to get really good at PLA. It took me another 50 to get good at Nylon. There's a lot of lessons to learn. Nylon is even harder to print than ABS. But it's very rewarding as it has great properties. All of the photos above look great as far as water absorption - I don't think that's the problem. If it is you will know it - for one thing, you can hear it sizzling and popping as the water boils. Also, the clear filament looks snowier and the black will look more matte. The person printing those small black things - enclosure is good for nylon. Use it. But you *might* have a cooling issue. Maybe. In fact, if everything you print will be under 5mm tall you don't need the enclosure as the air there is fine that close to the glass. The best way to print a part that small is to print 3 of them at a time. That way one can be cooling while you print a layer on the other two. Print them lined up on the x-axis so the fans reach them better. This is "pla" advice and I'm not sure it applies to nylon as I haven't printed things that small in nylon. Also, your black parts aren't sticking well it looks like. You might want to raise the temp of your glass. 80C should be enough. 100C should be fine. The most likely problem is you didn't squish the bottom layer enough. I am not a fan of active leveling - if you do normal manual leveling and then turn the 3 leveling screws about 1/3 turn looser (glass closer to nozzle) you'll probably get about the right amount of squish so your part sticks to the bed. And use an extremely thin layer of glue - this video shows you how to apply glue. And how much to squish your filament to get it to stick well:

I'm thinking maybe you have a loose pulley. Or maybe your slicing settings are messed up. Do you have the black and green hex driver that comes with the printer? You might need to tighten all the X axis pulleys - there's either 5 or 6 of them - not sure. There's the 4 on the long belts that go left and right - and then the most crucial one - on the stepper. You have to tighten those very hard - so hard the hex shaft bends a bit. I need to see a video to know if this is the issue.

I think I need to see a video of maybe the first 20 seconds of when you start printing.

Are you using tinkermarlin? It has a power budget feature which may be turning off your build plate. More likely you have a loose wire such that when the bed is down it's fine and when the bed is up the heater isn't making contact. You can test this by sliding the bed up and down manually. Usually, the problem is right where the 2 larger wires connect to the heated bed. Either you need to loosen the screws, stick the wires in again and retighten or slightly more likely - you need to reflow the solder that connects the terminals to the heated bed. Are you an electrical engineer or do you have a friend who is one? You could potentially ask your reseller for another heated bed if retightening the screws that hold the heater wires in doesn't help.

Before you "choose" solidworks - look at the price, lol. If it was only $1000 I'd consider it. Maybe. If work pays for it then go for it. It's fantastic but takes years to get a good competency. It took me a year before I could use DSM without thinking (my fingers move without me thinking - I click a face, hit XKV, edit on that face, hit D, hit SPACE, click something, hit P for pull, etc. Same was true in sketchup. Hit O for orbit, then Z, then S (was it S?) for select, click on something, move it, pull it, etc.

Could you please link to a citation - maybe a news story somewhere?