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You could look up material compatibilities in the compatibility chart - if the materials don't stick together it should show them as not compatible.

Often when I change filaments if it won't extrude sometimes the filament is stuck higher up in the head. I always cut the filament to a point before sliding it into the bowden (I don't use the menu item to insert filament - I just shove it in). Also I have needles that will fit even inside a 0.25mm nozzle. I can use those to poke around if something is inside the nozzle I can push it up into the filament and then a cold pull will solve the problem. I recommend you also read up on how to do a cold pull properly. There's hundreds of posts about this and videos on youtube and descriptions at fbrc8.com and ultimaker has their own guides on doing a cold pull.

This is fascinating. I'm amazed that I still learn basic stuff like this after years of printing. Great post. You might want to buy some nylon. I hear it does a better job of cleaning. I've used nylon for cold pulls occasionally. It's great stuff. I do it roughly at 120C (it has a higher softening temp).

Before you print anything look at the part carefully in layer view. Please show us the problem in layer view. I don't think there is need to show us the actual print since we can't really see anything anyway but a blue cylinder. Did you create this model yourself? If so did you use sketchup? If so then I think I know what the issue is.

No. don't push the steppers. Tighten that tiny screw inside the pulley. The belt is the black rubber thing - it goes around the aluminum pulleys. The pulley's are attached to the stepper and the shafts with a set screw. It is those set screws you need to tighten. Not the belts. Tighten them hard. Very hard.

If you disable combing for the bottom layer (type comb in the search terms just above the profile settings) then it will greatly improve the quality - those lines will mostly disappear. Not all of them but most of them. The difference is that if combing is disabled then it will retract every time it moves from one part of the print to another.

I think you have to check the box that shows moves (in blue). I like to keep that one checked.

I was thinking prime tower also. If the nozzle leaks a bit hopefully not enough to fall into the print before you wipe that leakage off on the prime tower. Also you might want to print the tpu slower than normal such that the pressure in the nozzle is lower (hence hopefully less leaking) and you might want to increase your retraction a lot. Watch the tpu in the bowden. You want it to rest on the bottom of the bowden arch when retracted. You might need to go as high as 10mm or even higher for retraction distance if the tpu is bunching up a bit.

Is line width set to 0.25 (or smaller) in cura? What do you mean it won't work at all? Does it prime? Maybe something got into the nozzle - I'd do a cold pull. Are you familiar with cold pulls? Read up on these.

The two side fans expect 12V each and they are wired in series so they they need 24V.

I would read this ENTIRE thread. Carefully - don't skim it:

Oh. Oops. I'd sell it and buy a used Ultimaker 2. Or you could hire a linux programmer for a few months and get it to work I'm sure. the programmer would have to be very good - top notch. All the source code in the UM3 is open source and it's also all just sitting there on the UM3. The um3 has a complete linux computer inside with compilers and editors and so on. The development environment is inside the UM3.

I believe this manual will tell you where everything gets connected: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2/blob/master/um2 assembly manual V1.1 _english.pdf Note that the 3rd fan - the rear fan - only comes on when the um2 is hot. Is this a um2? If the side fans don't work it's usually the connectors just above the print head in the sleeve. Sometimes a wire will come out. The side fan connectors are connected together with a short loop wire - typically green.

mt2+??? um2+??? I don't mean to be rude but we get a lot of non ultimaker people on the forum.

In the back of the printer to the left corner. There are 2 screws in slots on the top of the machine back there. With power of push the head around and you should hear it click when the head is on the left edge. If the fan bracket is hitting the left wall first you might have to bend it back (sometimes the fan bracket gets bent). Note that the Y axis is hit by the horizontal smaller rod that goes through the print head. The rod sticks beyond the left sliding block. The X axis is hit by a block directly I believe.

[EDIT - THE BELOW ANSWER IS FOR ULTIMAKER ORIGNAL OR ULTIMAKER 2 - *NOT* ULTIMAKER 3] It's a serial port going through USB. The biggest problem is probably to get the CNC computer to output through USB. You could probably buy some kind of serial to USB converter but 90% of them go the other way (connect USB on computer to serial connector) so this might be tricky to find. Try ebay. Next you need to get the baudrate and such correct. The older baud rates for CNC controllers is typically 9600 or 19200. The UM2 arduino defaults to 250000. Some arduinos use 115200 baud rate. You could lower this baud rate by editing this value in Configuration.h but if you go too slow then the stream of gcodes won't be fast enough. In other parts of this forum I describe how to build Marlin. Marlin is the firmware on the UM2. Learning how to build Marlin is not easy - it takes most people between 4 hours and 10 hours to get it working. Once it compiles on your computer it's trivial to make lots of changes to Marlin. The list of supported gcodes is here. Note that this page describes several different firmwards but it documents very well which are supported by Marlin: http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code Make sure your CNC controller can output the gcodes you will need for your application. I'm not sure why you would want to use a CNC controller when you can use some really nice software such as pronterface on the PC. Pronterface can do all kinds of fine control (like a CNC controller can do) and it's free. It runs on windows. You just need a normal USB cable (which came with the UM2 printer) You can download it here: http://koti.kapsi.fi/~kliment/printrun/

On the most recent Z picture above - on the Z on the left - you have a gap on one side of the Z but not the other. That is caused by backlash. Also known as "play". That's usually in the belts being loose. If you weren't underextruding you wouldn't notice it but you do have some play and you should fix it. It's about 1/2 mm probably. This is the least serious of all your issues. Most serious is the loose pulley. Then fix underextrusion. Then fix leak. Finally fix the play. Even less important I suppose - clean the Z screw so you don't get those horizontal lines.

The "grey plastic part" is a material called PEEK. That's the PEEK part. No don't use teflon here as teflon degrades quickly as it gets above 200C. It gets very soft and mechanically needs support. The peek helps provide that here. The peek part is brittle and the threads can get destroyed kind of easily if you take it apart from the brass dozens of times. Years ago, the official way to stop leaks there was to print some ABS. Just 1/2 meter is fine. The abs slowly cooks (over maybe 15 minutes) into a kind of gunk that will seal that leak nicely. Yes you definitely have X or Y shifts on benchy. I hope you didn't file a flat anywhere (like on the motor shaft) as that can cause this back and forth shift. How is the play in your head? With the print head assembled if you push on the nozzle back and forth but not hard enough to move the steppers - how much does it move? Hopefully undetectable amounts (less than 0.1mm). The reason cura and simplify3D were different had to do with speed and acceleration. The newer Cura I think messes with acceleration maybe. Which is fine - you just need to tighten the hell out of the set screws in the pulleys. Did you measure the length of your feeder spring? when filament is installed and it is compressed what do you get? I ask because you are having some underextrusion. Something is still wrong with the feeder (most likely - it could be the hot end). It's pretty good but it should be able to pull on that filament with 5kg force. It think you are getting around 1/2kg force. You could test this by making sure the filament is only half way down the bowden so it's loose, then close the feeder and pull hard while holding the gear still. You should be able to pull with about 5kg force before it slips.

700C would be an open. Look at the gold contacts on the hardcore - you should see a dash. A horizontal line where it's making contact in your print head. It might be the line is too high or too low. Or you might just have a bad temp sensor. These temp sensors are difficult to make even though the factories that make them make hundreds of thousands of them. They can't use solder because normal solder melts at 200C and even high temp solder melts at 250C. So they use some kind of tiny clamps. Each time they heat and cool they expand and contract. I'd tell your reseller and send it back and get a new one. 3dsolex can take it apart and throw away the temp sensor and use most of the parts in your core for a new core. Reuse is better than recycle. Did you buy it direct from 3dsolex? Or did you buy it from a reseller?

I don't know the answer but I do know that the UM2 controls most (all?) of the material related settings on the printer itself. For example the nozzle and bed temperatures, the retraction distance and speed, the fan speed modifier (it multiplies fan speeds in gcode by this modifier). These are all set on the UM2 when you select a material on the UM2. So that's probably why.

Regarding leakage. It could be anywhere but usually it's where the nozzle meets the brass tube. To assemble this properly you have to have these touching as if it leaks then the filament will run through the threads easily. So I believe you need to put the nozzle in the block first, then the brass tube until it touches the nozzle inside the block. At that point they should be touching.

You never answered my questions. I still have the same questions but now regarding the newer Z faces above. That sounds like you got a slip in X or Y axis. That's caused by a loose pulley. You have to tighten the hell out of all 6 pulleys on each axis. If you use an L shaped hex tool it should hurt your fingers to tighten it. A lot! Very tight. So tight you are afraid because the tool is twisting. Quality is getting better. Those Z's are underextruded. If bottom layer then you still don't have leveling correct I think. If top layer then you have underextrusion issues and ignore me about leveling. I think your feeder spring is too loose. You want it compressed to about 10mm when you close the feeder on filament. I also see some horizontal lines in the X and Y in the photos just above. Those are caused by the Z axis not moving consistently. Sometimes it moves too far and then it moves not enough. When it doesn't move enough you get a line because it's overextruding on that layer and plastic sticks out the sides. Usually to fix that you need to clean the Z screw - remove it, clean with WD-40, put it back together clean and then add only one drop of grease on the z screw.

Please show the other settings as well. And can you zoom in on the part more? It looks maybe underextruded but I can't tell. and check your part in layer view - does it look fine there? I can't tell from the photo but the only thing that makes sense to me is underextrusion. Also when you post your settings, tell us what your nozzle diameter is.

Well getting 5 ruby nozzles seems a bit extreme. The 0.25mm nozzle is likely to clog with some of the filled filaments. I usually recommend the 0.6mm. But basically you are correct - that's a good way to go (I'm biased though because I sell 3dsolex products). As of now, march 2018, there seems to be no other sellers of ruby nozzles for the UM3. Will it void your warranty? I doubt it. If your part comes loose and you get a head flood - then the head flood repair might not be covered because the 3dsolex cores are 3rd party. But that's all I can think of (I think I'd rather fix it myself anyway). Basically if the 3dsolex core didn't contribute to some kind of failure then you should be covered but I can't promise anything. Besides even if some part breaks and you aren't covered, most of the parts on the UM3 are pretty inexpensive. Damaging your extruder? You mean the feeder? Basically the extrusion system is made of two parts connected by the bowden. Some call the 2 parts the hot and cold end. Some call it the feeder and the extruder. The cores are basically the extruders. Your feeder *might* get worn down a bit by glowfill filament (or CF filament). I've heard of this happening but it seems to be rare. Not sure why. Anyway you can always replace the part that gets worn down. I call that part the gnurled sleeve but it's not really a sleeve in the UM3. It's a gnurled shaft I suppose. If that parts does get worn down (I doubt it will) then you could consider getting a bondtech ddg which has hardened steel splined wheels. Or just replace the gnurled shaft.

Yes your Y axis clearly lost steps on one layer. It's very unlikely the stepper itself is the problem - they can be at 80C and function fine. The spec says something about 80C - I forget if that's max case temp, or max air temp. Anyway the failure mode is to basically melt. not skip steps. Stepper drivers definitely can skip steps if they get too hot. They are underneath your printer. However this issue is VERY COMMON and 95% of the time the problem is that one of the pulleys needs to have it's set screw tightened. Almost always one of the more difficult pulleys to get to. There are 6 pulleys on the Y axis - 4 on the long belts and 2 on the short belt (I forget but in some cases two of the pulleys are merged into one so maybe 5 pulleys). The ones on the short belt are usually the problem - the one on the motor most likely. You can push the head around until you can see the set screw and get a long hex screwdriver into there. Or worst case you have to remove the cover (only two screws need removing to remove the rear corner cover). Tighten the hell out of these! So tight that the tool is twisting. So tight that if you use and hold an L shaped allen wrench by the short end your fingers hurt. A lot. If you don't believe me mark the motor shaft and pulley with a sharpie. Same with the other pulley on the short belt. See if it moves the next time you get lost Y steps.