gr5

I'm not sure what it's supposed to look like. Is it supposed to be a lopsided octagon with perfectly vertical walls? Or is it supposed to shift a bit part way up? Does it have that shift in cura layer view? So guessing that it's supposed to not have the shift - it's a common problem (I mean not for most printers but people have this problem occasionally) where you lose some steps such that the printer loses it's home and thinks it's somewhere a bit off from where it truly is. Usually the shift is only in X or only Y and only in one direction although often there are 2 shifts. Could this be what I see? Or is it supposed to shift like that? And if it isn't supposed to shift would you say it slipped in X or Y?

Sketchup allows you to draw an infinitely thin wall. It's great for architecture where people don't care if a wall is infinitely thin or not. And you can map visual textures onto planes and make nice renderings really fast. Normal CAD for "real" things - to build real things - only creates solids. It's very hard in DSM to create something that isn't solid. Everything has a continuous surface that clearly defines what is inside and outside the part. For example, if you designed a cube in sketchup and forgot to put a bottom to it, you might not notice in sketchup but that cube only has 5 sides - no bottom. It's infinitely thin. In most CAD you can't do that - you might start with a rectangle in just two dimensions (so it does let you do it briefly) and then you immediately extrude that rectangle into a 3rd dimension and now you have a nice solid part. If you click on a side and try to delete it - you can't. Because that would make it not-a-solid. The interface in DSM just makes it hard to create impossible things that can't be built in real life. If you follow that link I posted about sketchup - it's really well written - simple to read - with nice pictures explaining everything. And it has links to great sketchup tools to test that your model is manifold. If you have been using sketchup for a year or so you probably don't want the pain of learning a new CAD and you might consider sticking with sketchup but learning a few extra tools and techniques. Here is a very simple guide to find the best possible cad software. I didn't create this but I think it's the best guide out there: https://www.gliffy.com/go/publish/5271448

Do you mean PVA? You are confusing me. PLA doesn't absorb moisture. You can probably even store it underwater if you want (don't quote me on that - never tried it). If the PLA nozzle is "clogging" I have completely different advice.

This probably needs a response from a UM3 developer. I'm not sure who they are but these guys know: @Daid @nallath

That didn't work for me. I have ubuntu. I keep a windows machine around and its primary purpose is DSM.

@impeham arrrg. Did you even read my post? Sorry - sometimes I know exactly what the problem is - I explain the answer very simply - and feel I'm ignored. If you want your box to be filled in when cura runs - do exactly what you did. Make the inner walls gray. Exactly like your picture. To fix it, right click on ALL visible gray walls and select reverse sides. I'm talking about doing this in sketchup, not cura. Also, although I recommend learning DSM eventually, if you are a pro in sketchup, then the guide I linked to above will be very helpful.

Assuming you use PLA, the less glue the better and squish the bottom layer very well. More details in this video. It's a long video but packed with all kinds of information about what to do and where you can actually watch it happening so you know better than with words:

Could you show a photo? is this PLA? Are the raised portions that the nozzle hits at the edge of overhangs? If all this is true then try to increase fan if possible, decrease nozzle temp by 5 to 10C and slow things down. I can explain why if it's PLA and happening on overhangs.d

If the PVA is too humid then it's obvious because it sizzles and crackles as it prints. Because it's boiling. I'm not sure why your PVA is clogging. Is this recent? I'd consider cleaning it using the cold pull procedure which is in the menu system on the printer.

No ideas.

Are you trying to *orbit* around the model so you can see it (use right control click) or rotate it's position in the printer? You for the second thing, you have to click on the part, then click on the 3rd from the bottom icon on the upper left side of the screen. Then hover the mouse over a circle and it should get "brighter". You have to have your mouse right over it. Then click and drag along the circle.

The hair will look very different. Some will be thin. Some will be thick. It may look better or worse than the typical hairy lion but it will definitely look different! I would probably stick to .15 or .2 layers but I'm very curious to see what it would look like with variable layers. The top of the head should be fine with any layer height. You can always do a "comb over" if you don't like the top of his head being hairless.

Woah! I thought it was supposed to be around 900 or 1000? I've never had to mess with this though. You won't damage anything by having the current too high. The stepper automatically shuts off for a few milliseconds and you get what looks like a slipping pulley. Sorry - I've been telling you to tighten the pulleys and now it seems maybe your stepper drivers are getting too hot. You could alternatively remove the bottom cover and add a desk fan nearby and tilt the machine. But let me go look up what the current should be. Mine are set to 1200ma on both my UM2 and my um2go. I never touched them. I think UM recommends lower current in hotter climates - around 1000ma. If you lower it too much the high acceleration at the lower current will *also* caused missed steps. 1000 to 1200ma should be about right.

lol. I think he means everything should be color control. Lots of pretty lights. The 2 cores and the primary lights aren't enough for this guy.

See how the inside walls are gray? That's the problem. Right click on those and do "reverse faces". More info here: https://i.materialise.com/blog/3d-printing-with-sketchup/

In blender you should zoom way out. way way way way way out. There's probably something way off to the side - about a million times farther away than the size of your part. That's my guess anyway.

Alternatively, turn the printer on and go to SYSTEM and go to where you set the bed temperature and leave the temperature at 0C but have one person watch the temperature while the other person pokes at these connections. The problem with this approach is that every time the temperature goes over 700C you will then probably have to reboot your printer and start over until you find the problem spot.

Do you have a multimeter? Disconnect this cable at the *other* end underneath the printer and measure the resistance there. It should be around 100 ohms. If it's failing it should be well over 1000 ohms. While one person holds the multimeter to the two wires, another person needs to push and poke at these connections. Push quite hard - maybe 1kg force. Hopefully, the resistance will jump from around 100 ohms to infinite. when that happens you found the problem area.

USB printing through a cable is not officially supported on UM2. UM3 can't do it at all. Printing from the USB flash is fine. That's the only way I print with the UM3. I think you mean 3cm or 4cm?

This is a known bug with cura 3.2.1. I could get into it but well 3 different things came together to make this bug happen. If you fix any of the 3 things the bug goes away. Cura 3.3 fixes two of the bugs. After installing cura 3.3 if you install the marlin firmware onto the printer that fixes the 3rd thing and you can go back to cura 3.2.1 if you want as fixing ANY of the 3 things fixes the bug.

I would mark the actual stepper. It's more work but we need to figure this out. High friction can also caused missed steps. Overheating of the stepper driver can cause missed steps. Is the room that the printer in very hot? Like 30C? If not I still think it's most likely your stepper pulley is slipping. Completely take the stepper out. The Y stepper. Tighten the set screw well while it's out but also mark the shaft and the pulley and maybe take a photo of that for reference for yourself to see if it slips. Put it all back together. If it slips again, take that motor out again and see if it slipped.

So STL files can't do rectangles - they do triangles. That's the edge of the triangle dividing that rectangle into 2 triangles. You can see it in the g codes above as well. Your printer should not slow down so much at that spot. You should get Marlin firmware. Marlin looks at the angle change (which is either 0 degrees or close to it) and realizes it doesn't need to slow down (for a 10 degree angle change it only slows down a little). Really really old firmware from like 7 years ago would stop at every vertex. Just like your photo shows.

Just above where all the profile settings are on the right there is a search box. Type "fan" into there and all kinds of invisible settings will appear including initial fan speed and "regular fan speed at layer".

The belts aren't so bad. Maye you can buy one of these from my store but probably that's not much of an issue: https://thegr5store.com/store/index.php/umo/belt-tensioning-springs.html I don't know anything about the monoprice (other than it looks like a prusa). I wouldn't re-level it. I would just move the bed a little closer. If like on ultimakers there are 3 leveling screws then just turn all 3 a half turn to move the bed up .1mm.

Is that the bottom layer? You don't have that leveled very well - that's all. You want to squish the nozzle closer to the bed on the bottom layer. This will also help keep the part from coming loose. See how every line has a thin gap between it and the next? That's about 10% under extrusion. You want to over extrude the bottom layer. Also, I think you may have a printer with belts that are a little loose which is why it's "okay" in some spots but not others.