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I forgot to mention you want to do a FACTORY RESET on the menu. Some of those things (like steps/mm for the E axis) are stored in the eeprom area and different versions of the firmware (marlin) store it in different places so it's best to do a FACTORY RESET after installing firmware unless it was definitely 100% an increase in version from one UM official release to another official release. For example if you switch to tinkerMarlin or from tinkerMarlin you definitely want to do a FACTORY RESET.

The giveaway that you have too much water in the filament is that you can hear the steam popping and crackling as it prints. And sometimes you can see steam. And sometimes you can see water condensed on the cooler parts of the print head. PLA doesn't need to be kept dry. You should keep the pva sealed in a bag with dessicant even if you aren't using it for just an hour. Nylon is much worse - if you leave it out for an entire day it definitely needs drying. I doubt any of this is related to your issues. I don't do enough PVA prints to be able to comment on your print. I don't know if that's normal quality or bad quality and I don't know how to fix it if it is bad quality. I'm curious if the PVA was making a solid layer just before the PLA was printed on top. There's an option related to that in cura somewhere. @kmanstudios - what do you think of that quality? Is that typical for you? I get the impression you tend to paint everything so I don't know if you worry about increasing surface quality all the time or just enjoy printing away all your creations without worries.

Is this the wipe tower? There should be a checkbox in cura somewhere for "wipe tower". If you look at your part in slice view and you see this cube and then you uncheck "wipe tower" it should go away. The purpose of the wipe tower is that sometimes the idle nozzle leaks a bit with a tiny "sausage" sticking out the bottom. If you don't wipe it then you get that sausage attached to the side of your print - and one on every layer potentially. But the temperature control of idle nozzles is so good now in cura that this probably is not an issue and you probably don't need the tower.

The UM2 and the UM2+ have reverse direction feeders. You got the wrong software. If you have a white feeder on your UM2 then use the "plus" firmware. If you have a black feeder on your UM2 then don't use the "plus" firmware. Just regular UM2 extended.

Well do you have a spring above the white teflon part or do you have a fixed aluminum spacer? If the ring is too loose the olsson block is too low and it hits the fan shroud and you get lots of HEATER ERROR messages and failed prints when the fans come on. So make sure you tighten the ring enough so that you can insert a piece of paper from the rear of the head between the block and the fan shroud - this lets you know you have a tiny gap. As long as there is a tiny gap you are good to print. If you raise it really high the spring gets compressed more and more and puts more stress on the teflon part. But it can take it for the most part but I like things as loose as possible such that the block is still not touching the fan shroud. Which is probably as tight as you can go and then back off one full rotation. If you have the aluminum spacer instead of the spring then you tighten until that part is no longer loose.

@ahoeben or @smartavionics or @ghostkeeper - I believe if a line segment is super short cura just discards it at some point. Is there a way to set the tolerance of which line segments are discarded. The picture above is - well really really good at explaining why this user wants to remove points and because he uses a 6mm nozzle (large scale printing) he wants to increase the existing threshold of what is discarded.

Wow. That's not built into cura but you could write a plugin to do that. You would apply a transform to all the G1 and G0 commands depending how much you have rotated or tilted the base. The easiest kind of plugin isn't called a plugin - it's called a post processing something. I think there are samples you can look at. If you can't find one I can send you a sample.

Freddy found the problem and posted it on a different thread/topic:

If you want your parts to discharge static to reduce ESD then you want it only slightly conductive. If it's too conductive then when the part touches the electronics you can get a spark which is bad. Something like 10mb from one side of the part to the other is a good resistance. For example if someone's hand is touching one side and the electronics is touching the other side - that would be good. I had heard of conductive filament before but I had never heard of ESD filament before but I just googled it and I see there are some suppliers. It's a bit expensive. ABS is going to be almost impossible to print. ABS is already difficult but when you add lots of conductive fill to it then it will be even worse. You will need to enclose the printer and get the air temp up to at least 35C or parts will come right off the bed. PLA is much better but will melt at temperatures around 55C so if this will be a product that will be in an automobile and left in the hot sun in summer then that's bad. PLA can withstand any temperature humans can withstand but people leave things in places that can get very hot. Like the inside of a computer maybe? The UM2 uses "3mm" filament which is typically actually 2.85mm (which is good as 3mm is a little too big for a UM2). If you buy 1.75mm filament you will need to get a conversion kit from 3dsolex or at the very minimum you might get by with just getting a "1.75 TFT" from 3dsolex. I strongly advise you stick with normal 3mm filament. There are two different common filament sizes. Fortunately only 2 sizes. Some printers use 1.75mm and some use 2.85mm filament. Older discussion here:

What's wrong with "downsampling"? It's very easy to do and will make slicing go faster as well. I've used meshlab to decimate and it's easy, quick, and gives good results. http://www.shapeways.com/tutorials/polygon_reduction_with_meshlab What you ask for I believe is hard coded into the slicer. I don't think it's a setting. You'd have to recompile the "engine" (the c++ code) I think.

Basically I would cancel the print if there is no way to continue. I mean push the button on the controller but if that doesn't work... I would power cycle it and set the bed warm again immediately. Next you need to learn gcode a little. Find the pause. It's a particular gcode like "M11" maybe. Look it up here: http://reprap.org/wiki/G_code Then try to understand where it homes and stuff and prints the brim. Try to remove everything from after it does homing and add a g0 Z100 (or something like that) to move the Z up above the existing print so it doesn't knock it over. Let it do the prime sequence next but then delete all the printing from there until the M11 (or whatever a pause is). Set the extruder to the E value where it left off. So if the last E position before the pause was at say position E3.1726 then do a: G92 E3.1726 where the M11 was which will tell the printer that the E axis is now at 3.1726 meters. If you don't do that your printiner MIGHT try to extrude 3 meters just before printing which will grind the filament to all hell. Not doing this might work fine also as most versions of Marlin know enough to ignore extrusion commands more than 2 meters (a nice hack feature in marlin). Anyway, once you've made a succesful edit, go ahead and print this new gcode file. have your hand on the power switch if the head is about to knock over your print then kill it. You don't get a second chance.

Oh no! We mostly don't know much about Prusa printers here. There should have been something on the screen of the prusa to continue the print. And you really should have practiced this once with a 10 minute print! Well the first thing is to not panick and to keep the bed hot so the part doesn't fall off and maybe get some sleep and take your time. Are you printing through USB or with SD card?

There's a version that runs in ubuntu - it has (strange to me) extention ".AppImage". Does that not work in FreeBSD? I'm guessing not. Well maybe @ghostkeeper can help you - maybe if you posted some specific issue(s) of things you have problems with?

The red is indicating overhangs. It doesn't mean there is a problem. The sideways cylinder will be mostly okay. If you need it to high tolerance you could drill it out afterwards as the "roof" will be a bit messy/droopy but mostly fine. The right most part is fine - ignore the red on bottom surfaces. The second from the right isthe most problematic. Can you just flip it over? The second from left (wood stove?) should be mostly find. I'd try printing ALL of these with no support. I think you'll be mainly fine. Also always look at your parts in layer view also before printing.

Just quote parts of the file and ask one or two questions at a time. e.g. "obviously this part calculates the line width but what does this thing here do circled in red?"

This feeder is quite new and the UMO is quite old so I think probably not. These feeders don't really need to be mounted to anything other than the stepper. You can just hang them from the ceiling or place them on a box. But I'd just design my own mount.

I don't know the answer but did you try exiting and restarting cura?

I use cura from ubuntu. Try ~/.config/cura But I don't see anything in there about "com" or "usb" or "port".

I don't know most of these answers but the orange is because you want a layer height around 20% to 75% of the nozzle diameter. So I'm guessing somehow it thinks your nozzle diameter is 0.4mm and thinks that 0.4mm layer height is pushing things a bit (the quality will be worse, you will be pushing too much material through the nozzle possibly for the feeder to keep up unless you also slow down the print speed so why not thinner layer and faster print speed for same overall speed and thirdly layer adhesion won't be great).

The bed uses the most amount of power and the nozzle uses the second most. What is happening is when both heaters are on and then the servos start you trip something in the power brick. The probably is 99% most likely in the power brick. Did you change the heater in the print head recently? If not I think you should just get a new power brick. Try to get the "GS" and not the "GST" version if you can. The GST is more efficient but the GST also is much more likely to shut off unexpectedly - in other words the GS has a larger headroom and can put out more power. Both put out more power than labelled but the GS puts out more and the UM2 series printers basically need the extra power.

It's fine - I think this list is probably best place to ask about creating your own printer definition. I'd start by looking at the other json files for other printers.

Unfortunately, while your photo was just fine yesterday it appears you have deleted it off your invisioncic server. Please repost the picture.

You should never print something if it doesn't look right in layer view. That would have saved you a lot of time and it will save you lots of time in the future. ALWAYS look at the part in layer view before printing it. The basic problem is that this part isn't manifold. A manifold parts has a connected 3d surface and a clear "inside" and "outside" where the "inside" is where you print filament and the "outside" is where you don't. This part is not manifold or possibly some of the wall normals are backwards which tell each triangle in the stl which side of the triangle is "air" and which side of the triangle is "solid". Examples of non-manifold are confusing (to cura) extra walls/triangles *inside* the print or missing walls. The simplest thing to do is to just run it through the free netfabb repair service here: https://service.netfabb.com/login.php To learn a little more about manifold you could try looking at the part in xray view. Anything that appears in red needs to be fixed. Another option is to go into cura expert options and look at the 4 "fix horrible" checkboxes and play with those. There are 16 ways to check those and one of those 16 ways (or a few of them) are likely to fix this print. If this is your own design (I'm pretty sure it isn't) and it was created in sketchup I can point you to a sketchup guide that has a few simple tricks to make sure your parts are manifold.

I don't have much of an answer sorry because I rarely use supports. However for PLA you should see no difference in stregth if the knex part is sticking straight up versus sticking horizontally. PLA does a very good job of thoroughly melting the layer below and has excellent bonding. This *should* be true for other materials but you have to do a few tricks (like lower fan speed). When my ABS parts break they tend to break along layer lines. When my PLA parts break they don't.