gr5

or just do a factory reset. Many values in configuration.h are only copied into eeprom if you do a factory reset.

The ability to click on areas of the model where you don't want support.

You must clean the blue tape with isopropyl alcohol. Also known in some places as "rubbing alcohol". Just put a squirt of alcohol on a tissue and wipe the blue tape for just a few seconds. This removes the wax coating that prevents the tape from sticking to itself but also keeps parts from sticking to the blue tape. More info here on how to get your parts to stick even better but this alone (alcohol) will help a lot:

Is there a conductive filament with Ngen?

It was a year ago (march 2017) so I don't remember well but I think I did have to "crack" it a bit or something. I seem to remember the joints bent but not as far as expected and I had to force it quite a bit so that the pangolin could curl up. I might have even done some filing but I don't think so. Not for the joints I don't think. It had some support under the mouth and I had to break that off and file it down smooth. Other than that I printed with no support.

I used Ultimaker dutch orange. PLA.

When you first start a print the extruder could be at any position. So you need to do a G92 E0 after the M92 but before you first move the extruder. Not only could the extruder be in a random position but also I think it stores the position internally in *steps*. So anytime you change steps/mm you need to do a M92. In addition consider doing a M500 which will store the M92 steps/mm value permanently. Then you can get rid of that M92 command from your gcode start script. More details here on gcodes: http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#G92:_Set_Position

This gives you an idea about bottom layer squish. The harder you squish the better the part will stick. That yellow part will stick like hell. These show how high the head was (a guess) when it printed the bottom layer assuming the nominal was 0.3mm layer height for the bottom layer The numbers show what I think are the ACTUAL height above the glass. 0.3 (nominal) is too high in my opinion as parts will come loose. The blue skirt is about perfect for most prints. Black one is leveled much too high. yellow one is okay if you are worried your part will come loose (for example if you will be sleeping while the print is running and it's a very large print). Usually I am for the blue - quite a bit squished.

Did you find the assembly manual? It's here: https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/235-assembly I suggest you look only at the feeder section to make sure that looks right. No bolts should be falling off. Is that Z the bottom layer or top? If top then you are underextruding - tension the feeder spring to about 10mm length. If that's the bottom then you need to level a tiny bit closer to the nozzle - forget about the paper - just turn the 3 screws about 1/4 turn CCW to move the glass up .12mm. The X and Y just look like not enough fan. Try lowering printing speed to 30mm/sec for ALL printing speeds. Try lowering the temp to 210C and maybe lowering it further from the TUNE menu to 200C (maybe) and see how it looks. It might start underextruding if you go too cold. Is the fan working? The X and Y look like not enough fan. You want the fan blowing on the part, but not too much on the nozzle. What is your infill? Don't go over 24% for this print. 100% infill could cause the problems I see. Your belts are just a tiny bit loose. They are probably fine but consider printing belt tensioners like this one: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:19892 If you put the print head in the corner and pluck the long belts they should have a pitch (you can use a guitar tuner) around 50-200 hz. For the short belts you should loosen the motors and push down quite firmly - 2kg force and re-tighten. Don't say bad things about the previous person who built it. Everyone makes mistakes. You will make mistakes. I will make mistakes. It's how we deal with them after that show if we are a good person.

Those lines I assume are within the part - where there would be infill for example (if infill is not at 0%). There is a feature related to retraction called "combing". There is where cura tries to not bother retracting and instead try to move to the next shell position without going ouside the part. In some cases it has to make crazy paths to get there - in this case it just can move directly. If you disable combing it will move in the same pattern but do a retraction. Some people hate these lines on the bottom layer only so you can also just turn off combing for the bottom layer. In addition there are other retraction features that might be blocking retraction: minimum retraction distance, etc but I think you just want combing turned off (for this part - don't turn it off for everything).

I had no trouble printing a pangolin - that same one. It was a big hit. Search for "horizontal" in the search box just above the profile settings and chance "horizontal expansion" to -0.1 or even -0.2. .1 is probably enough. This will pull inwards all the layers such that they are less likely to touch. This will probably solve your issues. Alternatively print cooler (190C?) and slower (try 30mm/sec for ALL speeds). I think the horizontal expansion will do it though. Make sure to use a NEGATIVE number so it will "contract" and not expand.

@Brulti - I'm a moderator so I don't know what it's like for regular users. I have to add the tag "solved" but *also* I have to make it a "prefix tag" so it shows up in the title in an obvious way both here and in the listing of all topics. Do you have the ability to do this on your own topics (prefix)?

I just marked it.

Ultimaker only sells I think 3 nozzle sizes: .25, .4, .8 (or is it only 2? I haven't really paid much attention). With 3dsolex the most popular nozzle would be the ruby/sapphire nozzles (called "everlast") for printing highly abrasive filaments like glowfill which can eat through a nozzle in just a few hours. Or carbon fill. Or steel fill. There is also a 0.5mm steel nozzle, and a 0.6mm nozzle if you want part way between .4 and .8. Also a 0.15 nozzle. Also a 0.1mm nozzle (yes, really!). Also there is a 1mm nozzle and I think a 1.2 maybe? Plus you can just drill out your own desired nozzle size I suppose if you want a 2.5mm nozzle? Pros: 1) Lots more choices for nozzles. 2) Easy to clean a nozzle or replace a nozzle - if it is clogged just remove it and slap on another one - no down time. You can do the cold pull or other cleaning technique over a gas stove while the printer is printing. 3) Easier to diagnose certain underextrusion issues. Maybe your bowden is highly worn out and has high friction. do a cold pull and remove the nozzle, now you can pass filament through a room temperature hot end and feel if there are problems in the path. 4) The "race" nozzles have better heat conduction (they have two paths inside each nozzle for the liquid filament to flow through) which heats the plastic better and you can print cooler (or faster - but I recommend cooler). This is particularly useful for ABS which has a very narrow printing temperature range. It allows you to keep the nozzle cooler so ABS is less likely to turn into gunk yet hot enough to get good layer adhesion. Cons: 1) Price. If you only will ever need 0.4 and 0.8 and you already have a 0.4 then it's much cheaper to just buy the ultimaker core AA 0.8. 2) The UM cores each know their nozzle size. The 3dsolex comes programmed as one nozzle size so you have to manually set the line width in cura. Or you can manually choose for example the AA 0.8 nozzle in cura. It's an extra step. Plus if you chose AA 0.8 but the printer thinks it has a AA 0.4 then you have to hit "ignore" once. So two extra clicks in life (one in cura, one on the printer). It sounds minor but it can be annoying.

Sorry those pictures were from 4 years ago. You have the Ultimaker Original? I assume so as that was the only printer from Ultimaker back then. The ultimaker original is supposed to home up. At the top. When you tell it to home, if the bed is in the middle, it should start going upwards. If it starts out going downwards then yes, your stepper wiring is backwards. It doesn't really matter how the stepper is wired quite exactly. There are 24 ways to wire either connector. About 12 of them result in no movement (but no damage). About 6 of them result in the correct direction and about 6 of them result in the wrong direction. It's quite safe to just start swapping wires. however there are shortcuts to getting it right. There are two twisted pairs. So the stepper people already helped you by grouping the wires in pairs. You want one pair going to two pins on one side of the connector and the other pair going to two pins on the other side of the connector. Reversing the two pins of one twisted pair (either pair) will reverse the direction of the motor. If you reverse both pairs the motor will not change direction. This is very safe. The tricky part is learning how to push out one of the pins. Once you have the right tool (a large sewing needle works really well for me -- or a jewelers screwdriver) you push down on a very tiny tab and then the pin slides out towards the "back". Towards the wires. Bend the tiny tab back up before re-inserting or the pin might just slide out next time. OH - THERE IS ANOTHER POSSIBILITY which is that you have the wrong firmware. All those white circuit boards can work in multiple machines so sometimes they show up with the wrong firmware. I would re-install the firmware using a USB cable and Cura just to make sure you have the correct and the latest firmware.

@Labern made this: https://3dprint.com/51677/3d-printed-smallest-drill/

Are you sure that's what you want? Z=0 means the nozzle is touching the print bed. In some cases that means you just smashed through your part. At least you should move the head to one of the corners first. For example front left corner is 0,0. G0 X0 Y0 ; this moves the head to the corner G0 Z0 ; this brings the nozzle down to the glass - likely hitting the part if it's large - for some printers the part will hit the roof of the printer if you do this Or maybe instead you want to move the bed all the way down? Does your bed move or does your nozzle move? Anyway that would make more sense. it depends how large your printer is. If your printer is 100mm tall then you could do: G0 Z100 and that will move the nozzle 100mm from the bed. You can insert these gcodes near the end of the gcode file. After the very last G1 or G0 command but before anything else.

As you can see in the image above, the nozzle is longer than most but still shorter than those "volcano" nozzles. I guess you could buy a volcano nozzle and then cut it down to size with a hack saw and then use a die to fix the threads.

What? You mean in an oven? It will melt all over the place at 230C. Even at 230F it will likely slump quite a bit. I think PVA gets soft around 80C? I forget - I tested it once and wrote it down but I don't want to search through my notes for 20 minutes. I should have put that value in my materials properties file on my computer. Oh well.

I'm guessing cura isn't smart enough to figure out it can follow those skinny walls. Better to make it so you never ever see stringing. I can usually tune my machine so that this amount of travels wouldn't matter and would be invisible. Try printing all speeds at the same speeds (speed changes can cause issues) and try printing at 25mm/sec and as cold as possible - maybe 190C. See if that eliminates all strings.

I'm pretty sure none of those will fit. 90% of them are too short and the rest are too long. The threading goes all the way through the block and into the hex portion of the steel part. The nozzle is much longer than it looks. However 3dsolex (and my store - thegr5store.com in USA only) sells a 3rd party core for the UM3 which lets you change nozzles. They still aren't compatible with those e3d style nozzles you linked to but at least there is more selection and if you were going to buy a 0.8 and a 0.25 core then it's a good deal. Or if you need a ruby or steel nozzle then it's the only choice right now. Taking apart your nozzle is very tricky as the steel part is very very delicate at the heat break but I have a video of how to do it if you are interested. It will of course void the warranty for your core. To find the video on youtube search for "um3 core disassembly".

PC is very difficult to get it to stick to the glass. You have to use all the tricks. Of all the materials, PC is the hardest I think. I've never printed PC (I think - I know I have some somewhere - maybe I did once but have forgotten). What is the property you are looking for that made you decide to print PC? Anyway you need to take the glass off the printer and clean it very well with soap and a plastic scratchy sponge. Then dry it and then clean it again with glass cleaner. Then use a very thin layer of PVA glue. One source is to use glue stick and spread it around a little (not much glue at all!) and then use a wet tissue to spread it really evenly and then heat the bed and it will dry to invisibility before it gets to PC temps. Also when it's printing the first layer, you should probably turn the 3 screws CCW a little (1/3 turn) to get it to squish the bottom layer better. Also make sure you are using brim feature in cura.

White filaments string more than most so keep that in mind. I have to print white filaments much cooler to avoid stringing. Try lowering the temp as it's printing and keep notes. If you want really good quality (eliminating the line down the rear foot) then also lower the speed to 30mm/sec max. ALL the speeds - especially infill speeds. make sure the outer layer (shell) is the same speed because speed changes can cause tiny imperfections.