gr5

Yay! Now lower the temp to 200C and the speed to 20mm to get a high quality robot like this (printed on a UMO).

Keep in mind that unlike most software, when you install a new version of cura the old version is still there. Windows considers them all separate programs. This makes it very convenient to switch versions of cura depending on the needs-of-the-day. So you can always "go back". Plus all the old versions of cura are available for download. http://software.ultimaker.com/old/ Now to your problem: part of the cura settings (for non-ultigcode like delta printers) should have the start and end gcodes. Compare these to the values in the old version of cura. Something is probably different here that you forgot about. For example do you have an M665 in the gcode files created by the older cura? If those all look perfect then slice the same 10mm cube with the same settings and compare the gcodes of the output files. The problem should occur very early on. also in machine settings did you remember to set 0,0 as the *center* instead of the corner?

What tommy said #3 - print a tower next to it as high as the bottom of the cup. Your basic problem is that in the skinny part there isn't time to cool down and you get a globular mess - basically the nozzle is sitting in a glob of liquid plastic that never gets a chance to cool because the hot nozzle is *inside*. The reason it recovers higher up is because it is farther from the heated bed. But the solution isn't to turn off the heated bed - it's to print a 1cm X 1cm tower next to your part. Or print 2 side by side.

Or if one line of returned text isn't enough (it probably is) then use exec().

What tommy said.

But peggy if he loses steps it will be cumulative - it won't suddenly repair itself on a higher layer, right? Azurial please post gcode file that you used to make the print (not the STL file). I want to look at it please. Post it on some site like dropbox or youmagine or other hosting site and link to it from a new post in this topic.

You guys are pessimists - I think it might be able to print the upper part just fine (or pretty well) with only "support touching buildplate". The second photo - not so easy.

I'm sorry, what? I guess I've been lucky for the past couple of years and literally hundreds of machines I've done it on? If he did the leveling procedure the first time and ended up with the wrong distance I doubt doing it again will help. I also doubt that it's worth the time to run it again since the bed is probably already "level" it's just not the right distance from the nozzle. The leveling procedure tends to end up with the .3mm layer being printed .3mm from the glass which is great for some parts but it won't stick as well as if you get the head a bit closer. Plus there is a large range of distances from when the head just barely touches the paper to where the paper has quite a bit of friction but not the max friction yet. I'm not sure that it's clear where the best leveling friction amout is. Personally I have used the leveling procedure many times and I like to just have the head touching the glass (skip the paper - do it by eye). But once I level using the procedure once I fine tune it on the fly at the start of the next print. And again on a larger print that reaches closer to the screw locations (sometimes the center is good but not the edges).

php can execute other programs - you will have to launch the curaEngine from within php - wait for it to finish and then examine the output and locate the time. This is advanced programming and not easy for a beginner.

Use very little glue. The layer should be so thin it is invisible. So for example if bed is completely cleaned first - then maybe put 2 full length stripes across teh bed - then wet a tissue and spread the glue around with the wet tissue to all corners. Then heat the bed and wait for the water to dry and it should become transparent. 60c is the ideal bed temp but 70C will help with warping issues (but cause other issues) so only go above 65C if you are desperate. Much more likely you aren't squishing the bottom layer enough. Try turning the 3 leveling knobs 1/2 turn CCW to get the glass closer to the nozzle. Don't mess with the leveling procedure - it tends to level to the "ideal" height such that the nozzle is .3mm off the bed when doing a .3mm bottom layer. But the problem with that is the part won't stick as well. So you want to be more like .2mm off the bed when doing a .3mm layer and then the part will stick very very well.

I think this is very simple - in the first photo I can clearly see you aren't clamping the filament quite right - you want about 10 pounds of force squeezing the hell out of that filament - maye 30 pounds. Anyway the black plastic is a material called "delrin". There is a loose finger shaped delrin piece. pull it so it is pointing straight up then pull hard enough to slide it up that wooden slot there (if it won't slide then loosen that nut a turn). In the photo it's mostly near the top of the slot but not quite. Then with your other hand squeeze the feeder shut - it should take a lot of force - there is a curved spot for one finger or thumb on the far side of the bowden, then the other fingers/thumb squeeze the black delrin part connected to the feeder closed, then finally that piece you are holding up with the other hand slides down and locks it all in place. the forces are impressively strong. Typical UMO can push that filament with about 10 pounds force - that's similar to the weight of the entire printer.

Start by heating nozzle to 150C, pull the filament back into the bowden a bit, then removing the nozzle then letting it cool below 50C then try sliding the filament through the head to make sure there isn't massive friction somewhere in the bowden or the teflon part, or some other thing badly aligned. Perhaps the bowden wasn't seated properly at the factory (it's hard to tell with that aluminum cylinder hiding your view). Perhaps the filament is stuck in the bowden due to some stray filament. perhaps the filament is getting stuck somewhere else. For ninja flex I recommend going extra hot - maybe 240C. In fact I've heard rumors that you need much different temps for the plus. Maybe you need to raise your standard printing temps that worked for you in the past by 20C.

Wow - that's a lot of stringing! Do you have retraction checked? What kind of filament is this? Maybe you should lower the temp by 10C. Anyway that's not what you asked about. I don't think you have a problem with friction/pulleys/belts because whatever "errors" seem to happen on some layers seem to recover on higher-up layers, right? And it's pretty much impossible to have a hardware error like that fix itself. So I'm thinking this is a mixture of your cad program and/or cura settings. I mean the 4 holes are all lined up nicely, right? or are they not supposed to be? Did you look at the "bad" layers in layer view in cura? I think you will see cura is telling the printer to do that stuff. if so look at the model in xray view and fix anything that you see as red. If nothing is red maybe shows us your gcode file and your stl file (upload them somewhere).

Don't print straight onto the acrylic. Use painters tape (it's usually blue - or you can use frog brand green tape or you can use masking tape). Make sure you clean the tape with isopropyl (aka rubbing) alcohol first to remove the wax or your parts won't stick as well. "then raises" I assume is what you mean when it does the G1 Z5 (go 5mm above the bed). M109 - sets the temp and wait - this is probably where it seems to be stopping. Some versions of marlin insist the temp doesn't fluctuate by even 1C over say 5 seconds and this is a bit extreme so maybe your temp is oscillating and Marlin refuses to start printing. You could try preheating yourself or you could use M104 (set temp but don't wait) combined with either M0 or M1. M0 S100 Waits 100 seconds (most firmwares) M1 Pauses until you tell the printer to continue - typically through some kind of controller or through usb command. more about gcodes here: http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code You might want to monitor the temperature carefully and see if it's oscillating a lot - if so maybe you should do a PID autotune.

@nicolinux - woah! Are you growing a "sander" beard? I'm working on mine! Don't shave until after the "community weekend"!

I haven't gotten any orders for the "upgrade kit". It's hidden. Anyway you are welcome to order one - I have only one meduza 2x kit in the store although I think I have all the parts now (maybe - have to check - stuff arrived yesterday) for 5 more kits. Even though the page is hidden it's completely working - you can pick and choose depending on what you already have (no need to get an olsson block if you already have one). I have to do taxes but hopefully I will have time this weekend to inventory and build some kits and then if I have at least 5 I will make the private page visible from the home page. My printer has been fine without the upgrade for years so I'm not sure how important the "plus" is. I have 4 printers but I have only done 3 prints on the "plus". I like to alternate printers depending on what I'm doing. I've done much more on the meduza 2x and it works quite well. I definitely like the 2x increase in power but it's not mandatory. I definitely like the Olsson block and larger nozzles - still haven't tried the .25mm! And the newer teflon part in the kit is very very critical if you have a printer that has more than 500 hours printing time on it and you got your teflon part from UM before roughly january 2016 (not sure when UM switched to higher temp teflon but 3dsolex switched well before UM did). Really there is a lot of excitement for the plus but my UM2 printers worked great before the plus. Haven't done any tests to prove that the fan is better or worse. You need a very difficult print to notice a difference such as the fan blade in the "plus" video which needs extra cooling due to it's tall thin sections and overhangs. The "plus" fans are quieter but other than that I'm not sure there is any claim by UM that they result in better prints (correct me if I'm wrong!)

Well that portion of the log file looks okay I guess. For example it sent an M105 and got back that the temperature of the nozzle was 23.4C. Maybe you should look further down in the log file. marlin gcodes can be found here: http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M110:_Set_Current_Line_Number

Cura is a slicer. It's completely open source but all the primary authors work for Ultimaker now. Okay - kapton tape. But if you have glass then glass is better. anyway now you need to read about "abs glue". Go read about it. also like I said - make sure the bottom layer is squished into the tape. 110C is great - dont' change that. Do you have the wooden printer or the enclosed one?

Nice. The problem is there is a time delay between when the power to the heater changes and when the temperature changes. And some noise. Normally D can dampen any oscillation but because of the delay and the noise sometimes D just can't do it and you have to reduce P and I. Either P or I can cause oscillations. Higher values are more likely to cause larger oscillations. P tends to create faster oscillations (guessing < 10 seconds) and I tends to create slower oscillations (guessing > 5 seconds).

Not having an ultimaker is fine but also not using cura - well now your question doesn't belong here. But anyway - ABS curls because the layers above are pulling very hard on the layers below. There are lots of great solutions that work extremely well. They all take some learning. Are you using painters tape? Or glass. Heated bed or cold? Some kind of PVA glue? (most common pva glues are hairspray, glue stick, wood glue) Or ABS juice (acetone mixed with ABS - another kind of glue)? Also you can always go with a "raft" which is the older technology and works okay but leaves an ugly bottom to your print. Also it's important that the bottom layer is squished will into the bed - so you might need to turn the screws on your bed a bit to get it closer to the nozzle.

@mdelanno understands perfectly. If the bottom layer is .3mm then these errors are very small. These errors will be consistent from then on up so the second layer will be built upon a layer below that varies in thickness consistently by the errors in the rods. But the errors in the rods will be the same amount on the same location above the bed. So you can do .02mm layer (after the first layer is done) even though the bottom layer had .175mm error.

You don't need to check this. It's not your responsibility. Normal filament does get more brittle with time but I have filament 2 years old that you can bend 90 degrees with your fingers and it doesn't break. A little more bending and it snaps. Brand new filament can be twisted in a circle and it's fine. If the filament is snapping in the bowden and it is less than 6 months since purchase it seems to me the seller should refund you for this or the portion you haven't used yet or send you some free filament. There was a known problem with UM filament (now fixed) so I would expect the seller/store won't be too surprised if you complain that the filament was too brittle. I can't speak to Verbatim filament quality and problems. I didn't even know they made filament.

ignatius you can try the "new cura" beta if you want. Send me a private message and I'll send you a link. I've sliced and printed a few objects with it and it seems to work pretty well. There are still some bugs but I don't think you will notice them.

Most people won't need the 35W heater. I printed my larger quadcopter parts with the 25W heater and I printed them with .8mm nozzle and .3mm layers and 50mm/sec. When you multiply those 3 numbers together you get 12 cubic mm per second which is a little beyond what a .4mm nozzle can print at (printing more plastic per second). The 25W heater kept up just fine. But if you want to print really big stuff, really fast, you will need 35W. For example .4mm thick layers (do you really want to print that thick? That's very visible in the final print! not pretty but quite functional) and .8mm nozzle and at 60mm/sec - at this point (19 cubic mm/sec) you might need 35W heater. I don't think you would ever need the 35W heater for .6mm and smaller nozzles. When starting a print, having the nozzle up to temperature almost twice as fast is nice but really not a big deal.

"with 3 parameters"? Oh - 3 brim perimeters? x-chinese make sure the bottom layer is well squished into the glass - you might have to rotate the 3 leveling screws 1/4 turn each the same amount to get the glass closer to the nozzle (counter clockwise). And htbui had .8mm shell so make sure you have at least that. Make sure your fans are at 100% (in the tune menu while printing) and feel the airflow. Try printing 10C or 20C cooler - maybe around 190C. And also print slower so it won't underextrude (PLA is more like toothpaste at 190C). This is a tricky part to print. I'm not surprised the nozzle hits the thin part. That's somewhat expected but some printers are slightly better than others. The cure for that is more fan. Lower printing temps help also. Tons of information about this "raised edges on overhangs" issue where the print head hits the part here: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4094-raised-edges/