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You should increase the tensions on the feeder spring a bit I think. I would expect the teeth markes to be a little deeper. You should be able to achieve similar print speeds to the UM2 which is about 10mm^3/sec at 230C so at .1 mm layers that would be 250mm/sec. That's kind of the top end. More data in the form of pictures and text here (post #2) which was done before UM2 existed: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/1872-some-calibration-photographs/?p=13194

That's bad. Better to click than have the filament slip. There is a test you can run to see if something is wrong with your printer. Make sure the feeder is tight enough so that it's making good impressions in the filament and sometimes clicks backwards. Then at 230C print this test cylinder: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4586-can-your-um2-printer-achieve-10mm3s-test-it-here/ Also realize that the printer can barely print at 10mm^3/sec at 230C. At lower temps it needs to print much slower. In fact I recommend printing at half the value of the dark blue line in this graph - the dark blue line is the absolute limit: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4127-um2-extrusion-rates-revisited/ If you can't print above say 7mm^/sec on the cylinder at 230C then it's time to figure out what is wrong with your printer. But 8 to 10mm^3/sec failures I consider "normal".

I think the inner diameter is 1/8 inch probably (3.175mm). Make sure to get 3X what you need because the tolerance isn't great and you need to test the inner diameter and discard any sections that are too thin. This tubing is easy to get in the USA but I don't know about other parts of the world. I think it's used by Air Conditioners so any company that sells AC parts.

Support is crazy busy. It may take a few weeks. But if you call them during normal working hours in The Netherlands you can usually get instant service.

it's trivial (takes seconds) to loosen all the end caps and see if that makes a difference. Belts too tight can also increase friction. My belts are rather loose. Just tight enough to make a pitch. Anyway, use light oil on the rods. Any light oil will do. Any brand. Preferably without many additives.

PLA plastique va fondre se il est laissé à des températures suffisamment chaudes pour tuer des gens. L'environnement le plus commun est l'intérieur d'une voiture avec les vitres fermées en été dans le parking ensoleillé beaucoup. Cependant laissé à l'extérieur dans le soleil et la pluie PLA peut contenir jusqu'à très bien. Je ai vu des pièces résistent rayonnement ultraviolet pendant quelques années sans changement. Si vous vous souciez de températures élevées, vous pouvez utiliser d'autres matériaux comme l'ABS ou XT ou "haute température PLA". Désolé pour la mauvaise traduction.

1) If the bottom layer seems over or underextruded it's more dependent on your leveling than anything else. By default Cura prints a .3mm bottom layer so you don't have to level quite as perfectly. But I recommend you move the bed up or down a little with the screws so you get perfectly flattened skirt. Do this live while printing. Do only small adjustments at a time - maybe 1/2 turn at the most. 1/4 turn more typical. 2) That's not stringing - that's typical overhang issues. 3) The "shifting" is very exact at the eyes. Look at the pattern - each shift is the same height as each eye. It's caused by backlash which again could be too much friction or overly loose belts. You can tell that the nozzle is moving right to left in this orientation of the photo with the eyes and doesn't return completely to the proper "wall" position before extruding the wall. Did you check the friction of X versus Y? Did you try loosening the end caps?

I recommend Arial font because it has a consistent width unlike some fonts which get fatter and skinnier. Nozzle/sheel width of .3 looks fine so I would say minimum of .61mm wide. Keep in mind that as you go around corners of a font it may get slightly skinnier and wider due to the nature of the curves of the font and due to precision errors. I also recommend you print extra small font with high flow - e.g. 150%. If you plan to do this kind of font printing like I did - look at the pictures carefully. The text was .1mm thick (very very careful/perfect leveling done by trial and error moving the screws and *not* by using the leveling procedure!). The white part was modeled, sliced and printed as a completely separate part with the bottom layer .3mm thick. This is important: .1mm for text, .3mm for bottom layer of part. Also note that the "J" part in the 3rd picture had only 100% flow on a .31mm nozzle/shell setting (with actual .4mm nozzle) so I had to redo that part with 200% flow to make it look good. These are drink clips so each person knows which cup is their own.

.2mm is fine if you print at slower speeds. For me, the best quality/speed compromise on UM2 (and UMO) is around .2mm layer height but 30mm/sec print speed. Of course you can get the exact same flow rate with .1mm layer height and 60mm/sec but I think the parts look better at 30mm/sec. In other words I think the quality improvement of printing .1mm layer is not as important as the quality improvement of printing slower. This is because parts look best if the extruder never speeds up or slows down and it has to slow down to around 28mm/sec on each corner. Also I like the look that the layer lines make. It says "this part was 3D printed". It's like a badge built into every print. And .2mm is damn tiny.

@nicolinux: stephenson and suarez are also 2 of my favorite authors. Have you read Stephen Gould's "Jumper" series? Amazing. And the Ender's game series and the first (but not the rest) "shadow" books that go with Ender's game. These are all easy reads and some say "youth fiction" but awesome none the less. Or the "silo" series by Hugh Howey.

40 watts. Okay. So I would start with this one: // Ultimaker #define DEFAULT_Kp 22.2 #define DEFAULT_Ki 1.08 #define DEFAULT_Kd 114 Are you building marlin yourself okay? If not use marlinBuilder mentioned above and choose these values:

You can check the gcode more exactly with this simple web application - just drag and drop your gcode file onto it: http://gcode.ws/ Backlash can be caused by either too loose or too tight belts. What you say? If belts are too tight then friction is too high and when an axis comes to a stop the head hasn't moved all the way and the belt is tighter at that moment in one direction than the other. If belts are too loose obviously also it might not drag the head all the way. Often the end caps over the rods cause too much friction. You should be able to push the head easily with your smallest finger of each hand touching the blocks on either side and pushing (with steppers powered off). But still - I'm guessing you could tighten your long belts a tiny bit more. I recommend clothes pin springs placed on the opposite position of the belt from the blocks. Or it might not be backlash at all - it might be underextrusion. Test by printing at half the speed - if that fixes the gap then it was underextrusion. Or it could be a slicing error.

Fixed title. It also helps to use a screwdriver like hex wrench instead of one that is bent at 90 degree angle.

I'm not sure if anyone has dual printing working well. I've seen 5 color printing with 5 nozzles. It's not too bad I guess. Anyway if you are in the market for a printer I suggest this impressive printer comparison: http://www.3dhubs.com/best-3d-printer-guide

Yes, and click "raw" to get the pdf. Go to page 55 of 69 and in top right, step 16, examine the colors of the 3 wires related - one wire (green in photo) should connect the two fans together to make them "in series". Smell of smoke is a very bad sign. Check the voltage at the fan connectors - each fan should be 12V (24V across both fans). If one fan is shorted or open you will see 0V across one fan and 24V across the other.

Interesting. Maybe. I don't think so - you need some kind of conductor to jump the spark to the plate suddenly. You can build up a huge charge on the glass but unless the top surface is conductive - like metal conductive - or salt water then I think not. Because the top surface of the glass isn't conductive a spark at the edge would only transfer the charge at the local area and not relieve the charge on the rest of the surface. So it would be very little power.

Does someone out there know the wattage of the UM Original nozzle heater?

arjan consider adding a drop of oil to the filament before it goes through the feeder. One drop every meter or two. It works incredibly well and doesn't affect the print. It lets the filament slide through the bowden with much less friction.

lol. Yeah that was also mentioned above by peggy I think. "cool head lift". But like she said - you end up with lots of strings. Putting a tower slightly taller than your print, next to your print is a much better option. Or just print 2. Or 3 like you did.

This part of Cura has been redesigned in the next major release of Cura. It's *completely* different. You won't recognize it. Also you can set temperature and speed by layer and change infill by layer or part if printing multiple parts and all kinds of good stuff. That version of Cura is code named "pink unicorn" and there's lots of discussion but Daid seems to be working on non-software issues lately.

I can modify the title. What do you think it should say?

Portal is, I think, my favorite game. Up there with Myst.

Also I would put the 3 parts much closer together to minimize stringing. You probably wanted to increase the layer time by making the head move farther but that's not necessary as you really only need about 2-3 seconds cooling time per layer. Also if you are really clever you can have the fans on the side cooling one part while printing the next.

For something this small, printing slower won't help because the head will be touching the part and transferring all the heat into keeping the PLA melted kind of like a soldering iron. Anyway I think someone answered your question and you missed it. Under "expert config" in the "cool" section there is a setting called "minimum speed (mm/s)". You need to set this to zero or it overrides "minimum layer time".

I can imagine it is easy to destroy the FET inside the HBK with static electricity simply by touching the heated bed after walking across a rug in a very dry house. But I can't imagine how the FET could break (or the arduino controlling signal) just because you cut power. I'd have to see the schematic.