gr5

Probably not. The biggest difference tends to be that the UMO belts are a bit loose which is easily fixed. The quality of my 2 machines right now is pretty damn close.

I don't recomend updated to firmware newer than 12.09. If anything most people seem to have *more* problems than less with the latest firmware (although a few people report that their nozzle temp is more steady - other's report that it is less steady). As far as "yikes lots of people have this problem I hear silence from UM...". The problem is clearly not "one single issue" to me. I mean if you wanted to give it a single description I would call it "underextrusion". But underextrusion has about 20 possible causes and from reading all the posts they seem to be different causes for different people. The most common: 1) Keep the spool on the floor - having it go into the extruder at an angle grinds up the black PTFE feeder housing causing the part to be the wrong shape, add nozzle clogging gunk to your filament, and add friction. 2) The white ptfe isolator at the nozzle head can get compressed too much (4 screws too tight or spring too tight) and result in a smaller than desired hole for the filament to go through. Consider loosening the 4 long screws a turn and/or drilling out the isolator if you have trouble sliding filament through. 3) The end of a filament being more curved is harder to get through both the bowden and the white isolator especially if it has shrunk. 4) Nozzle temperature fluctuations. Simplest fix is sometimes to add some silver high temp grease between temp sensor and heater and the block. 5) gunk in the nozzle - permanent baked on gunk lining the inside of the nozzle - not causing a complete clog but slowing down the ability to print at speeds that used to work. All of these 5 issues are underextrusion issues that typically don't show up on the first 10 prints but show up after 10 to 1000 hours of printing.

Some people think Y should be the vertical axis and Z is coming "out of the monitor". Ultimaker thinks Z should be the vertical axis. Neither is "correct". You can also easily rotate parts in Cura by clicking on them once and choose the rotate icon, grab a circle and it normally jumps in 15 degree increments.

Well it looks like underextrusion. Did you update the firmware recently? There have been changes related to nozzle and bed temperature in recent versions of Marlin. I suspect you have temperature issues. While printing go into the tune menu and watch the temp carefully - see if it is oscillating. It shouldn't vary by more than 1C from goal temp. Also consider maybe the thermistor is bad. You can test nozzle temp using this video as a guide:

I've done prints on aluminum before. They come out stunning. I've used I believe snapfish: http://www.snapfish.com/snapfish/fe/p/openplatform/AppLandingPage/productType=Metallic-Print/globalAppId=ezprints/mrchOID=70011 Ritz and Shutterfly also have good services for printing on aluminum.

This is what they look like I presume and I can see how a few loose ball bearings shouldn't hurt anything.

I have the same issue. It was silent at first but now months later, not so much. It's a scary sound the first time I heard it. Sounded like something was cracking/splitting/scratching but after listening more closely I think it might be just loose ball bearings. Or maybe it's getting damaged every time I move it. Don't know. It only does it on a certain section of the movement. I have a UM2 also which gets more use so I don't worry about it too much but still... The noise is much louder when pushing the bed down versus up. I'm not sure but I think it's coming from the left bearing and not the main nut.

I print the last 15% of any roll of UM filament using UM Original printer only. I also have no use for spools. I just put the filament on the floor whether it's spooled or not.

You would think but I got my UM2 in 3 days. They shipped on a Friday and delivered on a Monday. On Sunday alone that thing made huge progress. As far as I can tell DHL works just as hard on Sundays as on Mondays.

Flip it over?

If you call them they often pick up the phone and you can get instant service. If you create a ticket it will probalby take 2 weeks to get a response: support.ultimaker.com You can print fine on a cold bed but you have to put painters masking tape on it. Your printer should have come with blue tape - use that. Make sure you clean the tape after laying it down to remove a tiny bit of wax on the top layer. It's easy to do with some isopropyl alcohol. If you don't clean with isopropyl alcohol then PLA won't stick well. Then also print the first layer extra hot - 240C. Then lower to 220C or whatever you normally print manually when the second layer starts.

I'm sure they'll send you a new print bed. Don't touch the ticket once opened as you go back to the end of the line if you add to it (bad feature - they know). 38C is very hot for room temperature! I doubt it's that hot where you keep the printer. You should also check the wires underneath the printer - under the larger cover - it's held on by only 2 screws. Rebolt those down tight and see if that fixes the problem. If not I would remove those under the cover and check the resistance from that end. It should be 107 or 108 ohms if working properly. 113 ohms is too much. If it's bad at the end of the cable, test again at the heated bed at the screws and test again on the tiny sensor on the board. Somewhere in that path (or the resistor itself) is a problem. http://www.intech.co.nz/products/temperature/typert.html

That's great news but if I was running the company I would have the entire engineering department drop everything and help out with customer support until the backlog got back down to under 24 hours. It would suck for all the engineers at first and delay the release of new stuff but they would also learn some things and they would teach the "permanent" tech support a few things also. And they would probably rewrite the ticketing system!

Cancelling orders just increases the backlog but cancellations and other "money issues" are taken care of by different people at UM than the ones who help you with broken temp sensor or whatever. Even though it's the same phone number/website/email. The "money issues" tend to be taken care of much faster (like 2 days versus 2 weeks). As far as "ready to ship" this is confusing because the software that takes the money is run by a 3rd party company and it doesn't seem to know anything about stock. So it really just means your money is valid. Unlike a UM2, the HBKs don't take much work to assemble, but sometimes there is a bunch of kits waiting for some part.

Lance please update your profile to specify which printer you have. Also location (country). Yes definitely you can drill out nozzle larger. I've done that with both UMO and UM2. For UMO you can get nozzles for $5 which covers shipping (again - what country are you in - I'm guessing USA even though I'm probably wrong) of all kinds of nozzle hole sizes. This is very helpful for materials like woodfill where the sawdust can clog the nozzle. However, I printed protopasta carbon fiber with a regular .4mm nozzle with no trouble. The problem is the flat surface gets larger and larger the more you use the filament and quality of parts degrades quickly until all your parts look like crap. Also like I said, protopasta is neither stronger nor less flexible than regular PLA. As far as I can tell it has ZERO upsides except that you can brag (I printed carbon fiber!) and it's a brag that only makes you sound stupid. Plus the fibers might be bad for you lungs. Or maybe the color. But I bet there is a nice flat black PLA out there that looks just as good.

Nicolinux just went through this. He is still calibrating is 3DR Delta. You should message him: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/user/16181-nicolinux/ So it looks like you are using the arduino gui to build marlin. I have lots of notes on this. Read the README file that comes with Marlin - it talks about how to set things up. There is some other package you have to install and also you need to select the correct arduino cpu - for ultimaker that's the mega2560. Probably for 3DR also but I don't know.

I didn't see "backwards normals". You didn't mention how you created your STL file at that point in the conversation and a *lot* of people use sketchup - and sketchup is particularly popular among architects and this looked like a building so I just guessed. I have to do that a lot (guess) as many people won't even post pictures.

I thought someone else might answer. I don't know how many different configurations Marlin supports. And I don't know migbots. But one way to do home (the way I understand best) is to have a homing switch click when table is just barely touching nozzle. Is that what you did? I would hookup pronterface - do you have that installed? And do various gcode commands with pronterface to see how the migbot behaves. Especially I would work on the home command. You can build your own version of Marlin here: http://marlinbuilder.robotfuzz.com/ I think you need to be more specific in your questions. You can usually change steps/mm either with jumpers near the stepper drivers or using the above marlinbuilder. Does your migbot have a ulticontroller or simlar? In otherwards can you print through SD card inside the printer or is USB the only way?

Just the bottom layer to get it to stick well. And also it should be brought up slowly to not mess up nozzle temp PID controller. But that's it. Of course for ABS fan is bad. It has a higher glass temp so it has totally different issues. When you watch the old technology slicers print the UM robot - the ones that are used to ABS it's funny to watch because the fan comes on and off maybe 4 times per layer! That's very helpful for ABS. Turn it on to 30% for bridging then turn it off.

By the way the most common cause of excess resistance is the end caps that hold the rods from slipping out.

That is a pretty small amount of layer shift so I'm skeptical. Anyway layer shift can be caused by either excessive friction or loose pulley screw. Is this X axis slipping? Obviously only one axis has the problem. Usually the slip is at the stepper motor or the pulley above (the 2 pulleys on the short belt). Most often the motor pulley as this has the most force on it. Tighten the hell out of those 2 set screws. The shaft of the tool should twist. If you got your UM from ultimaker then it should also have come with a spare set of silver colored screws (the set inside the pulleys are black). The silver ones are pointier and better. But not mandatory. Check that the short X belt is not rubbing the wood. Watch the short X belt while printing. Does it twist one way when moving right and the other way when moving left? If so it is rubbing the wood slightly. Fix this by moving it away from the wood. Either add one washer under each of the 4 plastic spacers or move the pulley closer to the motor (as close as possible without touching - about .5mm). Finally, like Tommy says above, check resistance. You should be able to easily move the head with your smallest finger of each hand on opposite blocks.

The raised issue happens on leaning cylinders also. In fact that's where I see it most often due to meshmixer supports which are round but lean and the head hits them and can knock them over. My solution is to make them stronger (8mm typically diameter instead of default which I think is 4mm and 10mm at the base with brim). They still have raised edges and the head hits them but they usually withstand the force.

@yellowshark The fan helps hugely with raised points/edges. @michal - yes that's the most common cause of imperfect prints. For people who need their print to look *perfect* you can simply print at 20mm/sec. However if you want perfection *and* speed you need the "advance" feature which doesn't work quite right - I don't think it has the math quite right. My favorite writeup on "advance" is here by bernard (inventor of ulticontroller but doesn't work for ultimaker): http://bernhardkubicek.soup.io/post/168776124/Another-acceleration-extrusion-compensation-for-repraps Click on the middle "reaction" button near the bottom that showes the graph. Note that vertical axis is *velocity* and not distance. It shows infinite jerk at transition points which can be fixed by forcing the movement of the head to have a smoother shape. NONE OF THIS HAS ANYTHING TO DO WITH RAISED EDGES PROBLEM WHICH OCCURS EVEN AT 20MM/SEC PRINT SPEED.

This existing block is already ahead. Let's sell this thing! I doubt they will come out with multiple nozzle sizes within a year and if they do it will be probably €120 for 3 nozzle sizes. Seriously if you make 10 I'll pay the €600 euros and distribute to whomever wants them in North America and handle the billing and all. By the way I might miss posts to this thread. I haven't yet but... it can happen. So if I don't respond within 24 hours please send me a direct message.

Different issue. blobby corners are best fixed by printing slower. The problem is that with the bowden extruder it stores up lots of pressure so as you print the edge of a cube and as it slows down it overextrudes especially the last bit of corner approach (where it decelerates) then it accelerates down the next wall and underextrudes briefly until the pressure builds up. Printers with the feeder on the head don't have this problem so bad as UM. One fix is to print at 20mm/sec because the "jerk" setting is 20mm/sec and so basically Marlin will not decelerate below that speed (roughly - it's a little more complicated but this is a good approximation). Even 30mm/sec is slow enough to not have much blobs on corners. But at 20mm/sec the feeder is running at a constant rate, never speeding up or slowing down and you get perfect extrusion. Some day we'll replace the arduino with a cell phone cpu and be able to write better firmware that preloads the filament while accelerating and pre-unloads on deceleration so that we can print at 100mm/sec and get perfect corners. This will characterize things so well we won't have to say to "retract" as it will be part of normal movement to retract exactly what is necessary for a given move. Anyway this is different from the "raised edges on overhangs" issue.