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I can see that as you lowered the temperature you got better quality on the overhangs (as expected) but you also got some holes (underextrusion). To fix the holes you need to slow down the print speed. At 185C PLA is more like toothpaste (versus at 220C it is like honey). So the extruder is working much harder and the pressures in the nozzle are very high. Around 100PSI. That's a lot. Anyway the fix is to just print slower. You could try increasing the flow but your extruder may skip and then quality will be even worse. So instead just lower the speed by about another 2X. Try 20mm/sec. Quality will be amazing.

At room temp I found the glass doesn't stick very well. It doesn't take much force at all to get it off. Much more details and experimental results here: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/3404-printing-on-glass/

When you start a print and then go into the TUNE menu it will not start until you exit the TUNE menu. You can stay in the TUNE menu for an hour and it will not start the print. But it starts to print the moment you leave the TUNE menu. Even if the printer isn't up to temperature*. So if you choose to go into TUNE and change something you should stay in the menu until you are ready to print. * This has not been thoroughly researched by me because I am in the habit of never leaving TUNE until I'm ready to print so maybe I'm wrong about all of this.

Well in your original post you stated that you use different temperatures for the different filaments but re-reading it you printed lower temp on the one that prints fine. Which is impressive. I can not print UM light blue that fast on my printer. I can get close but I can't quite get to that speed. My printer never chews filament. Instead the extruder slips backwards. This is by design. The current limited to the extruder motor is lowered such that it should come very close to chewing it up but not quite. But for different types of filaments this changes. Some filaments are softer or harder and some extruder motors deliver more torque than others. You may be impatient but the only way to print faster is to either raise the temperature or lower the speed. Look at the graph more carefully please that I linked to. The graph is even designed for .2mm layer height which is what you are printing at. It makes it easier to read. When I don't care about quality of surface I print much faster than you and at 240C. When I want it to look very nice I print cooler and slower.

Well I first suggest to slow down to 25mm/sec at .2 layers as at this temp the filament is thick like toothpaste. I'm not sure if you need it tighter or looser for this filament. You might want to try a mk8 drive gear (C in this picture): http://airtripper.com/1676/3d-printer-extruder-filament-drive-gear-review-benchmark/ You can buy these in many countries and in many locations but try ebay first.

I've said it a dozen times before. Try putting the filament on the floor:

Daid, what is saved and what is lost with a firmware upgrade? For example what about these? - filament settings - levelling position - max speeds, accelerations - steps/mm for each axis

It's normal for the printer to overshoot the target temp by 10C then undershoot by maybe 2C and then be stable. Is this what you mean? Do you keep changing the target temp? What country do you live in (please update your profile location)?

You never answered if you wanted to edit steamEngine or the gui. If the gui then you don't need any compiler or source code - you just edit the py files and you are done.

Why aren't you following your own topic? In top right of this page click "follow topic" and you will then get emails when people reply. Why am I even bothering to reply to you if you won't ever read my answer? (sigh). Are you printing PLA or something else? PLA can cook into a kind of gunk if you leave it hot too long. The hotter, the quicker this happens. 180C is cool enough to leave it like that for hours. 240C only minutes. You have to keep it moving. That's one possible clog. Another is dust getting on the filament and traveling up through the bowden. You might want to invest in some hypodermic needles or acupuncture needles that fit through the nozzle tip. Combining that with a "cold pull" at 90C is a quick simple method of cleaning. "cold pull" aka "atomic method" is where you set nozzle temp to 90C and then when it cools to that temp pull very hard on the filament and you get a nozzle-tip shaped thing at the end of the filament with gunk stuck to it. Cut it off, discard, heat up nozzle, re-insert and repeat until no more gunk. Combine that with hypodermic pushing from below if you have one.

You seem to have bad luck. Be aware that the extruder motor will not move if the nozzle temp is below some temp - I think 170C. Could be that was it? You can override this feature with a gcode. M-something.

So viele Fragen! Ich würde es vorziehen, wenn Sie in den Themen Englisch, ein Thema für jede Frage gepostet. FR = Vorschub. Wenn Sie Fr = 200% druckt es "doppelt" so schnell, aber nicht wirklich, da jede Achse hat eine maximale Geschwindigkeit und die Beschleunigungswerte sind nicht betroffen, so dass es nicht zweimal sein könnten. Streicher Ich sah Zeichenfolgen in Ihren Fotos. Sie können sich wahrscheinlich beseitigen. Einige PLA wird * immer * String. Wahrscheinlich alles, was Sie tun müssen, ist die Temperatur zu senken. PLA wird mehr wie Zahnpasta bei niedriger Temperatur, die Besaitung hilft, aber es heißt, Sie haben auch langsamer zu drucken. Die Bespannung im Kopf ist, weil Sie haben "Kämmen" eingeschaltet in den Rückzugs-Einstellungen. Dies ausschalten, wenn Sie über Strings * innen * Ihr Modell egal. Rückzugsabstand von 4,5 mm ist ideal für UM Original-oder UM2 nur, wenn Ihr Bowden bewegt sich nicht. Wenn Sie auf die Bowden heben am Druckkopf und es bewegt sich, dann müssen Sie das Zurückziehen um diesen Betrag erhöhen oder stattdessen verwenden Sie einfach einen von diesen: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:46157 Rückzugsdrehzahl auf UM Original ist, weil einige Bugs kompliziert. Es ist ein Fehler in Marlin für UM, wo, wenn Sie die falsche Einfahren Geschwindigkeit zu erhalten. 40mm/sec tut 20mm/sec aber 41mm/sec macht etwa 10mm/sec. Dieser Fehler ist in der aktuellen Marlin, die mit Cura ist in den letzten Monaten festgelegt. Aber jetzt 40mm/sec ist zu schnell für die Extrudermotor so die Höchstgeschwindigkeit in der Version von Cura ist 25mm/sec, welche eine angemessene Geschwindigkeit. 30mm/sec ist wahrscheinlich zu schnell. Sie können mit der maximalen Geschwindigkeit, mit ulticontroller spielen und testen. Je schneller, desto besser, da Sie damit Reihung zu bekommen. Es sei denn, es so schnell ist die Schritt verfehlt Schritte. Hier einige Beispiele von Reihung Abhängigkeit von der Temperatur (erstes Foto): http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/1872-some-calibration-photographs/

Yay!

Brilliant! Thanks for figuring this out and posting a solution. I will remember this and refer other's to here if they have similar issue.

That's 4mm^3/sec which is pretty darn fast. Most UM2's can print that fast with the filament at 220 but not at 200. The plastic is much more fiscous at 190 than 240 (think toothpaste versus honey). Here is a table of what the absolute limits are that my printer can do (dark blue line in graph): http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4127-um2-extrusion-rates-revisited/ You went over the blue line by just a bit but it sounds like our printers are similar. Also different colors have different softness and react differently to the "grinding" gear in the feeder. At any rate, slow down the speed or raise the nozzle temperature.

Computers don't store numbers in base 10. They use binary or base 2. For example the number five is 101. The number half is 0.1 One quarter is 0.01 and one eighth is 0.001. But numbers like 0.1 (base 10) are much more complicated and go on "forever" and you have to round at some point. In fact 1/10 (decimal) converted to binary is 0.0001100110011001100110011001100110011... More info here: http://www.exploringbinary.com/why-0-point-1-does-not-exist-in-floating-point/

machine settings, gantry height.

I get the same clicking sound sometimes. It's definitely coming from the feeder. I think it's normal and you shouldn't worry about it. The first time I watched the video I didn't recognize it but my printer makes this noise a lot lately and maybe I never used to notice. Now I notice it often. It has something to do with the stepper motor steps I think. I think it's one click per one *full* step. Or maybe one click per one substep? Anyway I wouldn't worry about it.

You start out with a hypothesis about ABS versus PLA and then conclude something about layer heights? This is confusing. What have you found ABS has trouble with more specifically? Bridging? Overhangs? Lifting Corners? Ugly surfaces? Clogging? Underextrusion? Uneven extrusion? I haven't done much with ABS but 245C and zero fan has worked well for me so far. Bed at 110C. Hairspray on the glass. Use brim. But to cover the front of a UM2 all you need is some plastic wrap. No permanent modification necessary and it only takes a few minutes. And to cover the top all you need is a box of the right size.

I believe all the necessary build steps are somewhere on this forum. Use google search (the search built into this forum sucks) and restrict to this forum by adding to your search string "site:umforum.ultimaker.com". Also included the word "daid" as he is the author and he is the one who explained how to build it. There's the python portion of cura and the steam engine portion. If you only want to change the gui - can't you just edit the python files? I don't think they are compiled. Or is it the c code you want to edit?

Don't know. Is there lots of grease on your Z screw? There should be - if you touch it you should get lots on your hands.

The UM Original kit is much cheaper than the UM2 and prints about the same as long as you don't print ABS (you need heated bed for ABS). Makerbot deletes forum posts that criticize the company. UM does not. Makerbot patents designs created on their forum. UM is open source. Makerbot printers are black. UM printers are white.

Yes. Get rid of all overhangs. Seriously, I'm just going to say the same thing as mnis. Shell thickness .8mm. print speed 20mm/sec if you really want god like perfection but 35mm/sec should improve what you see. Lower your print temp by another 10C or try 200C. Fans must be 100% by the time the overhang starts which is, um, layer zero. Bed is much too hot and causing that curve in the bottom 3mm of your part - that is fixed by lowering bed temp to 60C or even 50C. 60C should be fine. Increase minimum layer time a little like dimensioneer says. With fans at 100% at layer 0 you may have trouble getting the PLA to stick so actually you should print the first layer hot (240C) and then cool to 200C gradually so it doesn't overshoot to 190C (set to 210C and then wait for it to overshoot to 200-205C or so then set to 200C).

Please post pictures. The printer probably slowed down for the letters and then speed up for a straight away and it takes a bit of time for the extruder to get the nozzle pressure back up to fast printing speeds so you can get underextrusion. You could print slower so that it never slows down for the letters. But really I need to see the picture of what you are talking about.

No math. I just told the extruder to extrude into thin air faster and faster until the stepper started skipping. Unfortunately this doesn't account for additonal pressure of having the nozzle partly blocked .2mm away by the part being printed. So I repeated the test during a real print here: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4127-um2-extrusion-rates-revisited/ And got slightly lower values for max print speed. You should cut the values in this table in half anyway. Seems like a lot of work. If you are running a business and have 10 printers going all day then maybe. But some steppers seem to be stronger than others plus you might have a 10% nozzle clog yet it prints fine but your max speed is lower because of this so really it's going to vary a lot. I just take the max speed from my tests and cut it by 2X or more. Part of the purpose of this graph is so that people understand that raising the temp by 10C might make their underextrusion problem go away. Or lowering by 10C might cause other problems if they don't slow it down a bit. Also some people claimed the um2 extrusion was worse than the um original (it is for some people but for most printers it's about the same). Also when people post that they printed something at 60mm/sec .2mm layers at 200C and wonder why there is holes in the side I refer them to this graph and show how they are trying to print faster than this graph says you can. They might say "but I printed 75mm/sec just fine before" and I'll say "not at 200C, .2mm layers you didn't".