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Sounds serious. Both the stepper motor *and* the stepper driver get hotter as you continue printing - either could be an issue but I would bet on the stepper driver. Maybe the heatsink fell off or the bottom fan is not working? You can swap 2 stepper drivers to see if the problem moves to another axis. Be very careful as some of them (the feeder one maybe) are oriented backwards from the others and plugging this in backwards will fry the whole thing instantly (although they are very inexpensive). Has the lag been quite hot at work lately? Steppers that have too much or not enough current have a distinctive sound to them that many here might recognize in a video.

reprap mode is fine on UM2. You just won't be able to control the retraction distance and speed on UM2 - you have to do it in Cura. The whole concept of ultigcode is that you can create one set of gcode and then print it with PLA or ABS without having to edit the gcode. Also you can print it on differently tuned printers with different retraction settings. Marlin worries about bed temp, nozzle temp, retraction distance and speed. Cura worries about the rest. Oh also filament diameter is specified in Marlin and Cura outputs all distances in cubic mm of filament. So you can change filament diamter, type, bed temp, retraction settings all in Marlin now if you use ultigcode. But reprap mode works just fine on UM2.

Actually Robert (IRobertI) has a great guide that he will be publishing within a day or two. It's very visual (lots of photos).

I wish there was something and I wish it was on a wiki so I could add to it. But I don't know of any such thing. Here is a pictorial guide to a few print settings and issues: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/1872-some-calibration-photographs/

If someone discovers when/where the video is posted please let us all know by posting a link to it here.

The printfile probably specified a printing temp and a bed temp of 0C meaning ignore temperature. There is an important comment in the file that tells Marlin that it is "ultigcode". The behavior is differnt for ultigcode. In ultigcode mode you don't specify temp in gcode file but instead it's defined in the default filament settings on the printer. But in "reprap" mode you specify the temperature and if it's left out it "just starts printing". I think the line in your gcode file that says "ultigcode" got corrupted.

This is in flux (this is changing). This item was incorrectly priced around 95 euros but that includes a bunch of other parts like the heater I think. So there is now a newer price around 45 euros and this should be listed on the server as a purchasable item. Soon. Here: https://www.ultimaker.com/t/spare-parts But it's not there yet. I recommend you fix it. I've had some very nasty clogs but almost everything burns at a lower temperature than brass melts. So take the nozzle completely off your printer (you have to anyway if you buy a new one) and put the whole thing in a gas flame for about 20 seconds at a time (don't want to melt it) until everything is burned to ash. Then soak it in acetone for an hour and then clean with the atomic method. Did you try the atomic method by the way? http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4118-blocked-nozzle/?p=33691 Meanwhile I'll PM someone who might be able to sell you the nozzle directly.

I don't think it would ever switch off the UM2. When you first plug in the power supply it takes a massive amount of current (very briefly) even if not connected to a printer. So it seems like even if the draw was very low if you turn it off it will soon start drawing more power (within a minute) and the power strip will turn it back on. But I don't know.

Besser woanders veröffentlichen - Dieses Forum sollte nur Deutsch sein. A = Beschleunigung Blättern Sie ein wenig und Sie sehen VMAX 25. So kann jede Geschwindigkeit Cura Wert 25 oder höher sein und es wird immer noch 25mm/sec. Aber man kann mit diesem Wert zu spielen und zu sehen, ob Ihr Extruder kann vielleicht zu 30mm/sec gehen. 40mm/sec zu schnell ist (Sie können mit Ihrem Ohr sagen). Ja, das ist A-Rückzugs max Beschleunigung der Extruder bei anderen Achsen nicht bewegen. Amax E nur zählt, wenn andere Achsen (X, Y, Z) werden ebenfalls in Bewegung. Weitere Informationen finden Sie hier (dieser Fehler behoben ist): http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/1734-marlin-bug-the-myth-of-retraction-speed/ z Geschwindigkeit (I erhöht Z accleration zu 200mm/sec und half dem "Z Naht"): http://www.extrudable.me/2013/04/02/the-myth-of-z-speed/

I can see that as you lowered the temperature you got better quality on the overhangs (as expected) but you also got some holes (underextrusion). To fix the holes you need to slow down the print speed. At 185C PLA is more like toothpaste (versus at 220C it is like honey). So the extruder is working much harder and the pressures in the nozzle are very high. Around 100PSI. That's a lot. Anyway the fix is to just print slower. You could try increasing the flow but your extruder may skip and then quality will be even worse. So instead just lower the speed by about another 2X. Try 20mm/sec. Quality will be amazing.

At room temp I found the glass doesn't stick very well. It doesn't take much force at all to get it off. Much more details and experimental results here: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/3404-printing-on-glass/

When you start a print and then go into the TUNE menu it will not start until you exit the TUNE menu. You can stay in the TUNE menu for an hour and it will not start the print. But it starts to print the moment you leave the TUNE menu. Even if the printer isn't up to temperature*. So if you choose to go into TUNE and change something you should stay in the menu until you are ready to print. * This has not been thoroughly researched by me because I am in the habit of never leaving TUNE until I'm ready to print so maybe I'm wrong about all of this.

Well in your original post you stated that you use different temperatures for the different filaments but re-reading it you printed lower temp on the one that prints fine. Which is impressive. I can not print UM light blue that fast on my printer. I can get close but I can't quite get to that speed. My printer never chews filament. Instead the extruder slips backwards. This is by design. The current limited to the extruder motor is lowered such that it should come very close to chewing it up but not quite. But for different types of filaments this changes. Some filaments are softer or harder and some extruder motors deliver more torque than others. You may be impatient but the only way to print faster is to either raise the temperature or lower the speed. Look at the graph more carefully please that I linked to. The graph is even designed for .2mm layer height which is what you are printing at. It makes it easier to read. When I don't care about quality of surface I print much faster than you and at 240C. When I want it to look very nice I print cooler and slower.

Well I first suggest to slow down to 25mm/sec at .2 layers as at this temp the filament is thick like toothpaste. I'm not sure if you need it tighter or looser for this filament. You might want to try a mk8 drive gear (C in this picture): http://airtripper.com/1676/3d-printer-extruder-filament-drive-gear-review-benchmark/ You can buy these in many countries and in many locations but try ebay first.

I've said it a dozen times before. Try putting the filament on the floor:

Daid, what is saved and what is lost with a firmware upgrade? For example what about these? - filament settings - levelling position - max speeds, accelerations - steps/mm for each axis

It's normal for the printer to overshoot the target temp by 10C then undershoot by maybe 2C and then be stable. Is this what you mean? Do you keep changing the target temp? What country do you live in (please update your profile location)?

You never answered if you wanted to edit steamEngine or the gui. If the gui then you don't need any compiler or source code - you just edit the py files and you are done.

Why aren't you following your own topic? In top right of this page click "follow topic" and you will then get emails when people reply. Why am I even bothering to reply to you if you won't ever read my answer? (sigh). Are you printing PLA or something else? PLA can cook into a kind of gunk if you leave it hot too long. The hotter, the quicker this happens. 180C is cool enough to leave it like that for hours. 240C only minutes. You have to keep it moving. That's one possible clog. Another is dust getting on the filament and traveling up through the bowden. You might want to invest in some hypodermic needles or acupuncture needles that fit through the nozzle tip. Combining that with a "cold pull" at 90C is a quick simple method of cleaning. "cold pull" aka "atomic method" is where you set nozzle temp to 90C and then when it cools to that temp pull very hard on the filament and you get a nozzle-tip shaped thing at the end of the filament with gunk stuck to it. Cut it off, discard, heat up nozzle, re-insert and repeat until no more gunk. Combine that with hypodermic pushing from below if you have one.

You seem to have bad luck. Be aware that the extruder motor will not move if the nozzle temp is below some temp - I think 170C. Could be that was it? You can override this feature with a gcode. M-something.

So viele Fragen! Ich würde es vorziehen, wenn Sie in den Themen Englisch, ein Thema für jede Frage gepostet. FR = Vorschub. Wenn Sie Fr = 200% druckt es "doppelt" so schnell, aber nicht wirklich, da jede Achse hat eine maximale Geschwindigkeit und die Beschleunigungswerte sind nicht betroffen, so dass es nicht zweimal sein könnten. Streicher Ich sah Zeichenfolgen in Ihren Fotos. Sie können sich wahrscheinlich beseitigen. Einige PLA wird * immer * String. Wahrscheinlich alles, was Sie tun müssen, ist die Temperatur zu senken. PLA wird mehr wie Zahnpasta bei niedriger Temperatur, die Besaitung hilft, aber es heißt, Sie haben auch langsamer zu drucken. Die Bespannung im Kopf ist, weil Sie haben "Kämmen" eingeschaltet in den Rückzugs-Einstellungen. Dies ausschalten, wenn Sie über Strings * innen * Ihr Modell egal. Rückzugsabstand von 4,5 mm ist ideal für UM Original-oder UM2 nur, wenn Ihr Bowden bewegt sich nicht. Wenn Sie auf die Bowden heben am Druckkopf und es bewegt sich, dann müssen Sie das Zurückziehen um diesen Betrag erhöhen oder stattdessen verwenden Sie einfach einen von diesen: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:46157 Rückzugsdrehzahl auf UM Original ist, weil einige Bugs kompliziert. Es ist ein Fehler in Marlin für UM, wo, wenn Sie die falsche Einfahren Geschwindigkeit zu erhalten. 40mm/sec tut 20mm/sec aber 41mm/sec macht etwa 10mm/sec. Dieser Fehler ist in der aktuellen Marlin, die mit Cura ist in den letzten Monaten festgelegt. Aber jetzt 40mm/sec ist zu schnell für die Extrudermotor so die Höchstgeschwindigkeit in der Version von Cura ist 25mm/sec, welche eine angemessene Geschwindigkeit. 30mm/sec ist wahrscheinlich zu schnell. Sie können mit der maximalen Geschwindigkeit, mit ulticontroller spielen und testen. Je schneller, desto besser, da Sie damit Reihung zu bekommen. Es sei denn, es so schnell ist die Schritt verfehlt Schritte. Hier einige Beispiele von Reihung Abhängigkeit von der Temperatur (erstes Foto): http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/1872-some-calibration-photographs/

Yay!

Brilliant! Thanks for figuring this out and posting a solution. I will remember this and refer other's to here if they have similar issue.

That's 4mm^3/sec which is pretty darn fast. Most UM2's can print that fast with the filament at 220 but not at 200. The plastic is much more fiscous at 190 than 240 (think toothpaste versus honey). Here is a table of what the absolute limits are that my printer can do (dark blue line in graph): http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4127-um2-extrusion-rates-revisited/ You went over the blue line by just a bit but it sounds like our printers are similar. Also different colors have different softness and react differently to the "grinding" gear in the feeder. At any rate, slow down the speed or raise the nozzle temperature.

Computers don't store numbers in base 10. They use binary or base 2. For example the number five is 101. The number half is 0.1 One quarter is 0.01 and one eighth is 0.001. But numbers like 0.1 (base 10) are much more complicated and go on "forever" and you have to round at some point. In fact 1/10 (decimal) converted to binary is 0.0001100110011001100110011001100110011... More info here: http://www.exploringbinary.com/why-0-point-1-does-not-exist-in-floating-point/