gr5

The error will likely come back if you didn't tighten anything and found nothing loose. You didn't answer Illuminarti's question about whether or not the word "bed" was included in the temp sensor error message so if you get the error again check that carefully. Also please update your profile settings to mention that you live in Colorado. You can get now potentially get faster customer service if you live in USA so it's important to note that.

The load grinding sound also called the "death rattle" will not harm your printer but you need to fix this. Are you sure it's both axes? It often appears to be both axes but in fact is only one axis that doesn't home properly.

I've seen Ultimakers with much worse - where only 3 feet touch the ground and the 4th is MUCH higher. Yet they printed great. It's probably something else. Please post a picture or video or better description of the problems you are experiencing.

8mm^3/sec is a typical or at least reasonable top speed. Try printing the other cylinder please. And you must print it at 230C because it's harder to print at lower temps and if it fails it means nothing. And it's easier to print at higher temps so if it prints just fine at 240C that also means nothing. So please print it at 230C. Also I think your printer is upside down . So go to the very first post in this topic and download and print *that* test cylinder. At 230C.

What support material are you using lukas?

I tried to duplicate the bug shown in the first photos and wasn't able to. Cura seems fine with or without raft.

So if you want to go for the raft experience (no more lifting corners) by all means try it - it's there in Cura. But you will have ugly bottoms of parts. It's a tradeoff.

I suspect MB is no better. I really don't know much about MB other than what I hear from other owners who have MB and hate it. But it's possible that MB still uses "raft". In the old days everyone used Raft I think because that was a way to keep warping from happening. But even though it is trickier, simply getting the part to stick is far superior to the raft setting because raft makes the bottom of your part very ugly.

I thought the same thing but the gap is shown in layer view also. Plus he doesn't have the other typical features of backlash.

Motors should be fine - they can get very hot but they can handle quite high heat. Is this a UM Original? Or UM2? Your photos definitely show underextrusion. This may be normal at the printing volume you are at. What is the printing speed in mm/sec and what is your layer height? Multiply those 2 numbers plus the nozzle diameter (.4mm) to get the total volume in mm^3/sec. At 205C you should be able to safely get around 1mm^3/sec no problem. At 230C you should be able to safely get around 4mm^3/sec no problem.

You didn't take into account acceleration or jerk settings. These are complicated. For any polygon movement, acceleration is infinite at each vertex unless the head comes to a complete stop. To make it so the head doesn't stop at every vertex there is a "jerk" settting which is not truly "jerk" but instead the maximum instantaneous speed change. This is typically 20mm/sec. So going from 20mm/sec to 0mm/sec is allowed at a vertex. Or going from 10mm/sec in one direction to -10mm/sec an instant later is also allowed. Or at a 90 degree corner, the speed will slow to 14mm/sec (total XY magnitude instantaneous speed change is 20mm/sec on 90 degree corner). The latest Cura takes care of this very well and now gives very very good estimates of how long a print will take.

Well it's time to start a ticket then at: support.ultimaker.com What country are you in Suminvent? Please update your profile settings to indicate your country in the location field. Did you test the glass also to see if it is also flat within .1mm or so? (the thickness of a piece of paper).

I did experiments and found that for very small parts speed affects overhang quite a bit but for large parts it doesn't. It turns out cooling is very important where there are overhangs. So maybe a better feature would be the current "minimum layer time" but have an alternate, slower layer time for areas with overhang. But really the two numbers are probably 5 seconds for vertical and non-overhangs and 10 seconds for parts with 45 degree or worse overhangs. This is a feature that isn't really needed that much as I assume most people usually print larger parts that need more than 10 seconds per layer most of the time anyway so just upping the existing min layer time to 10 seconds might be all we really need.

By the way with a .8mm shell the "evil infill" might still be there but it might not hurt the details anymore as there will be two .4mm shell passes protecting the outside from the "evil infill".

You shell thickness is .6mm. This is a bad idea - it should always be a multiple of your nozzle size (which is .4mm). I recommend changing this to .8mm. This might not fix your issue. Or it might fix your issue. Sometimes Cura adds the "yellow" infill to support a layer above so that it doesn't fall as it is printed. You can only disable this with the new feature in the expert "magic" section that prints "only shell". I have not played with this new feature yet. You need Cura 14.06. So try both of those 2 suggestions please and look at it in layer view.

Which one - bed or nozzle? If it's the bed it specifically says "bed" but if it's the nozzle I think it doesn't mention nozzle or head or anything. You should get a new temp sensor. Are you in the USA Eldrick? If so I can get you one quickly. Otherwise you need to open a ticket. Please update your location in your profile to indicate what country you are in. I'm thinking you have bad wiring somewhere - could be at the head or it could be underneath the printer (I recommend removing the larger cover on the bottom - only 2 screws - very easy to do - and check the wiring for the temp sensors to see if they are loose or fell out. If it's at the head you might want to just get a new one. If instead it's the bed sensor that is the problem you likely don't need a new one - just need to check the wiring at each end and likely need to reheat the solder at the 4 conductor connector on the heated bed.

Probably, yes. Or you could be carbonizing the PLA. I don't know much about XT but 260 is a bit hot for most PLAs and if you leave it for a few minutes at that temp without printing (or if you print slowly) it can also turn black. But more likely it's the feeder grinding up. I strongly recomend you keep your PLA on the floor and not on the back of the printer so there is less grinding. That has worked very well for me.

For the nespresso shell, try setting infill to 100% and then check layer view to see if it adds a little bit more in the curves - I'm not sure if it will.

If you blow through a straw the air coming out the far end will go very straight at first and you get a kind of rocket propulsion like effect and you can feel the wind 5 feet away. If you suck through a straw there is no directionality at the far end of the straw - air come in equall from all directions. All 360 degrees. Even back along the straw! So trying to get the fan to suck cooler air might not help as much as you think. Anyway the hot end can easily be at 260C (for printing nylon). Although the teflon can handle 260C it is more likely to deform under pressure when at temperatures at 250C or higher. The heated bed is typically 50-75C for PLA and 90-110C for ABS. Even 110C is so much cooler than 260C that I don't think it matters too much if you use 110C air versus 20C air as long as you have good air movement. I could be wrong. I think that the angled thing that aims the air at the teflon shouldn't hurt much and I agree, the left side of the head is the hotter side. But it's possible you are interfering a bit with the airflow and reducing the effectiveness of the 3rd fan but I doubt it - I bet its fine. Many people print without realizing their 3rd fan never worked and discover it when they complain that the PLA is getting soft high up in the print head and getting stuck up there (especially with lots of retractions). So maybe that deflector will help keep you from getting jams higher up in the bowden. It's never been a problem for me on UM Original nor UM2.

Lots of materials. It can print Nylon - I've printed "PA6" Nylon. Other's have tried taulman brand nylons (google taulman filament). It can print "flexible pla" and "ninjaflex". The UM2 can also print PLA with various powders mixed in including a "stone like" filament, wood filaments (2 different manufacturers) and bronze powder. But it must be 2.85mm. The flexible filaments are the most difficult and my require a drop of oil every 20 meters of filament to allow it to flow through the bowden and also may need to be printed very slowly (10-20mm/sec) for the same reason that it's hard to "push on a string".

I have bought "3mm" filament from printbl. It's actually 2.85mm.

You mean it's bent? It's not straight.

Some people think .06 is great so you are welcome to try it. I think .2mm layers looks great although the robot in the photo was .1mm. It's kind of silly to go super high resolution on the Z axis when your X and Y axis are limited by the nozzle diameter of .4mm (radius of .2mm). So XY your resolution is sort of blurred to the finest point being .2mm curvature.

What?? Strange. That doesn't sound right. I can think of two causes: 1) Are you printing through USB? If so that would explain both your problems (grinding and strange behavior). USB is not officially supported because you get so many errors that occasionally the checksum matches and it does a wild move. 2) Click on the "plugin" tab in Cura and make sure you don't have the "pause at Z" plugin enabled. No ideas about the glossy versus matt. Usually temperature affects that. Maybe your fan doesn't come on until one inch up?

What temp? Try 210C. If you were already on 210C, try 200C. Double check that the fans are actually working. If you want even better quality slow it to 20mm/sec but at 30mm/sec you should be able to do better than what I see in pictures. .1mm or .2mm per layer should not show much difference. I don't recommend .06mm layers - that might be your entire problem - but more likely it's temperature issue. Also bed should be at 50C to 60C. No hotter than 60C. No cooler than 40C or it might not stick. Also .8mm shell is probably best. But really most of your issues are probably temp and possibly layers too thin to do overhangs (not sure). Again - are you sure those fans are working? Often they get unplugged in shipping. It shouldn't be too hard to get quality like this: