gr5

Looks exactly like what I would expect with shrinking effects. When you have a long part it shrinks more at the ends than two short parts. You can compensate for this all in the model by measuring the final sizes accurately and increasing or decreasing only those sides that need it.

You must have changed the Cura settings. Maybe layer height is thinner? Maybe you changed the print speed? There are about 10 settings that can affect how long it takes to print a part. Because of this I always take good notes and I always save my settings to a "profile" file so I can look back several days later to see what I did.

If the tube *is* scraped, another alternative might be to cut off 10mm off the end of the bowden so that the part that holds the bowden is now touching the bowden higher up where it hasn't been scraped yet.

I'm guessing Sander wants to see a picture because there might be a few other possibilities so please do that also.

Wait - what? Coffin's cube? Is that "stewart coffin"? I know him. My mom is dating him. He gives me puzzles all the time. Nice guy. He has something like 300 puzzles invented. Each of which probably took him a month to dream up and create the tooling to make them in wood. He's working on a new book showing/discussing all his puzzles. And he's still making new puzzles but he's mostly retired.

Ultimaker is open this week except for december 25,26 so very likely they shipped some UM2s today and will ship more tomorrow and Friday. If you have the "R" number for your order (which you probably got when you paid 2 months ago), you can check DHL to see if they already have your package. There are instructions somewhere in the posts above. I made one of those posts so you could restrict your seach to only my posts if you want and should be able to find it. The "R" number is a long number that starts with R. I forget how many digits. Something like R28917593.

The way the thermocouple works - it's a very sensitive thing in that the arduino doesn't have the capability to measure it so there is a tiny circuit board on the head of the UM that measures the temperature and converts it to a voltage between 0 and 5V where 0V=0C and 5V=500C. So measure that voltage on the print head. The most likely thing that is broken is that board or the thermocouple itself (although the thermocouple is pretty damn simple!) or the wiring between the two. You can test this by measuring the voltage coming off the board. At room (20C) it should be around 200mv. If it is correctly at 200mv (and not 1050mv) then the problem is not there and is in the wiring or in the UM PCB. But I strongly suspect the problem is in the head area and will be reading around 1000mv (1volt) instead of around 200mv at room temp.

You can (and should) install cura without connecting the arduino to the UM. 1) Did you do that step? 2) After that Cura should be able to connect with the print window in Cura. Does that work? It's good to do small steps to figure out exactly what the problem is. 3) The next step for me would be to connect the arduino to the UM PCB and power it up. Double check that the Ulticontroller display cables are connected correctly. 4) If now cura *can't* connect, yet before it *could* then check the power voltages. Do not leave the Ultimaker PCB powered up for more than 30 seconds as the voltage regulator gets very very hot without a fan. 5) If things aren't working at this point - check the power voltages at the voltage regulator. You should have 19V coming in and 12V going out. It's the 3 pin part that sticks up out of the PCB into the air flow. The 3rd pin on that part is 0V. This part may need replacing.

It probably would cost you less than 1 penny per day to keep the bed and nozzle at 10C. What do you think of never turning it off when not in use? Since you are in "reprap" mode anyway - it's easy to mess with the start and end gcodes. You could probalby set the end gcode to leave the bed and nozzle at 10C. At least when the weather is forecast to be below 5C. As far as letting parts cool - the glass temp of PLA is around 55C. If the bed temp is below 50C it should be safe to pry the part off with a putty knife. But above 60C it's not worth the risk. Alternatively, I have placed the glass under hot water (I made sure the water was at max temp before letting it touch the 60C glass). This dissolves the gluestick glue and makes it easier to pop the part off once you get a square millimeter of corner up and let water in. Also alternatively I have removed the glass with gloves and waved it around in the air up and down to speed up cooling yet still cool evenly (glass tends to shatter if you cool it unevenly - UM doesn't use pyrex).

Actually as cura works now, if you go for a coffee break and come back, once all slices are finally loaded, you can very quickly slide up and down the slider on the right edge. So Cura basically has this feature already but better: it has built in pause, fast forward, rewind, rotate, zoom in while paused, etc.

Oh. I missed that part. Strange. I tried rotating on 2 different axes and saw no problems. If you can recreate it, try checking some of the "fix horrible" settings. There may be a tiny opening somewhere in the STL. I looked at it and it looks good ("manifold") but there could be a tiny hole somewhere.

Works for me in cura 13.11. Same settings (60% fill, .15 layers). Sounds like a bug. Check out my picture. Consider downloading cura 13.11. You can have many cura's all installed (and even all running) at the same time. Download older cura's here: http://software.ultimaker.com/old/

What country would you be shipping from?

The damage you saw should never happen. Only if it got damaged by hitting or being hit by something harder than brass. Iron/steel/diamond - something like that. If it hit a screw head (like the screws holding the build plate) for example you could probably damage it instantly. You are more likely to have gradual gunk problems inside the nozzle. Many people have been very happy when replacing their nozzles - their old nozzle gradually got more and more clogged over a year.

For Ultimaker2 the heated bed is not an option - it comes with it. For ultimaker original, there is not yet a heated bed option but rumor is that it should come "soon" (2014 maybe?).

Pretty much. jerk mostly affects when you are moving in the same axis two line segments in a row. It allows the axis in motion not to have to come to a complete stop at the end of each segment. Since there aren't normally two z moves consecutively, max z jerk is less of a factor. But basically it sets the initial speed before acceleration and the final speed at the end of deceleration. In other words instead of smoothly accelerating from speed 0, it starts at speed max_z_jerk (and I think ends at either max jerk or max_jerk/2). The code is a bit confusing - I just spent an hour looking at it again (planner.cpp). A great effort was made to document and explain it. And it is much easier to read code than most code I've read in my lifetime. But it's still quite confusing. Keep in mind, jerk in Marlin is not the normal physics definition of jerk - it's more closely defined as the maximum instantaneous velocity change allowed at a vertex. It's in mm/sec. It's a velocity. So, yes. Changing max z jerk will make a difference.

Those perimeters (aka skirts) in that photo I posted are probably .2mm thick. That's what they look like to me.

@0235 - please post a picture of these "tops and bottoms". But it sounds like underextrusion. What is your: 1) print speed 2) layer height 3) print temperature 4) PLA?

Thinking of the part like the front of a bus - it's supporting great in the wheel wells, but not under the front bumper.

Very interesting print. What is it?

Zodiak! I see the filename said "zodiak". That is some kind of rubber boat! I like it.

260C can cause PLA to possibly boil a bit and/or get gunky and cause clogs. 240C is much safer. I often print at 240C when I don't care about quality and want to print 100mm/sec. 210-220C is recommended as you tend to get better quality but you have to print slower. When I want extra high quality I print maybe 190C. Every color of filament is different. But usually only different by 5-10C.

Is your third fan always on? It should turn on even before the lights come on. If this fan isn't working you will get lots of plugged nozzles especially on longer prints (over an hour).

Maybe, but I haven't had one yet.

No. Instead raising speed might need raising temperature. The tiny .4mm hole in the nozzle can only let a certain amount of filament out. If you raise the speed of any axis Marlin is smart and increases the movement of extruder also. But the extruder motor is often not strong enough. So for faster speeds you might have to do thinner layer heights, or hotter nozzle temp (hot PLA flows like honey. Cold PLA flows like toothpaste). Here is a test I did: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/3418-um2-extrusion-rates/