nallath

The blue fillament isn't that bad, but it pretty much is the worst we have. I've had the best results with the grey/sliverish fillament.

"You might think that, I couldn't possibly comment"

The files are OS, wouldn't be that hard to find a party willing to make them.

Well, unclogging your nozzle would not void your waranty on our end (as far as I know, but mind, I work for R&D.) I personally actively encourage modifications of our printers and will share best practice information.

Whatever anyone says; the 'low' end FDM printing (such as Ultimakers & makerbots) are not for everyone. A 3D printer is a tool and as such requires knowledge to operate. We are in the process of pouring as much knowledge as possible in the machine, but it is a difficult (and tedious) process.

Ultimaker blue is probably the worst fillament that we sell. The only reason we sell it because it somewhat resembles our company color.

The open source part (at least for the um2) is not so much in the area of; 'hey I want one and it's pretty easy to source the parts', but more in the area 'Hey I want to make some modifications, but I want good drawings of the other parts to make my life easier'. If you are limited to using only already existing parts, quite a few things would be extremely expensive, difficult or even impossible.

The title of the mankati website It says; 'China 3D printer'

The panels can vary quite a bit in thickness. This should not prove a problem. What mistake did you notice? If there is any, we could fix it.

Immer "Hardware sicher entfernen" mit ihr SD-Karte.

Might be that I understand you wrong; but I've been able to print objects that were 0.3 mm high.

If illuminarti were to work here, he'd be quickly swamped in work, making it impossible to provide the same service as he does now. But i'm shocked to see that we sell those parts for that much money. I suddenly understand why there is such a lively trade of 'counterfeit' chinese parts on ebay.

Pff we're melting here. Its 29.9 degrees in the office.

We don't own the kamermaker. If it were the case, we would have upgraded our far to small building months ago

The current one is glass filled nylon. We will swich to glass filled POM in the near future. Bas van Deursen (also active on the forums) is currently on the feeder improvement project. Some improvements have already been made to prevent the little pieces problem that you describe.

Short answer: The perpetual plastic project recycles plastic to print. This is very, very difficult though. Making fillament at all is already difficult, recycling it adds even more complexity. Long answer; There is a lot that you need to do to get it right. The main problemn with PLA for instance is that it degrades at the printing temperatures. This means that recycling it will ruin your material to some extent. ANother big problem is how to correctly mix the materials. As said; You want a perfect mix of the material, but with more dye added to prevent the ugly color. But leaving it longer in your extruder will degrade the material. This is usualy the reason that you don't use 100% recycled material, but addd some new material to improve the quality to acceptable levels. So now you have the material right, you also want fillament that has a good shape & consistency, which is an art onto itself.

PLA won't survive autoclaving. But If the research daid send you is the stuff I think it is, it's a paper on how printed stuff is already as germ free as putting something in an autoclave.

You did not implement the '418' error code.

Warten Sie ein wenig länger. Der "Split" ist in dem GUI, der langsam ist. Sie können auch die 'cut off object bottom (mm)' einstellung auf 950 mm einstellen.

Verwenden "split objects in parts". Es ist ein kleiner Klecks unter dem Objekt, das das Problem verursacht.

I'm not quite sure what happens (pictures help!), but it sounds like either 'elephant foot' or your print sagging due to heated bed. For the first; you can always cut that away quite easy. The second can be fixed by lowering the bed temp (or even printing on tape without bed).

also: Shell Thickness 1.00 <- Don't do this. Your nozzle is 0.4mm. Ideally your shell thickness should be multitudes of your nozzle size (0.4, 0.8 (standard), 1.2,etc). Could you please slice something with *all* the basic settings as provides by Cura. Only when you get that right should you start experimenting (and blaming the machine for being 'faulty'). Also; The robot prints far better on tape then it does on heated bed. Small prints + heated bed is quite tricky.

If you have an issue, please make an issue that details what you did, what went wrong and on what system you did it. Post that issue on the github tracker of Cura.

Did it show in the layer view? No? Then it's most likely not a cura problem (but hardware; tighten those pulleys!)

It's a mechanism to train the invisible unicorn that lives in the printer. Not used anymore as we removed the feeding slot for said unicorn, so most of them die before anyone recieves the printer.