nallath

Might also be a corrupted SD card.

I see under extrusion on the top of your print. Also, the results tend to be best if you use 2x your nozzle as shell thickness (in this case 0.8). I've had exceptionally awesome results with shells of 1.2, especially combined with little infill. The higher parts of the print seem to suffer from layer shift, this is usually caused by your pulleys slipping while printing. This could also cause the elliptical circles, but these can also be caused by a high 'head resistance'. If the steppers are not powered, it should be easy to move the print head by hand.

I've had some succes with a gas soldering iron. The one I have has a pretty nice (flat) tip. It gives the same marks as metal welding does. In most cases it's not as strong as alternatives (glue, screws, etc).

The main problem with these nano prints is that it's not yet scalable. I very much doubt if they are able to produce the quanitites that we need. We are looking for a coating, but a coating on a ceramic part doesn't really add anything when compared to a metal part with a coating. In all cases we looked at, the metal parts are significantly cheaper (several orders of magnitude cheaper actually).

We came to the same conclusion. I'm not quite sure what the current 'best' fix is, but I do know that ceramics was a total bust. The resistance of the PLA with the ceramics was just too high.

If you guys don't mind, I'm going to respond in english. Um orig electronics, axis, steppers, pulleys, that kind of stuff. If anyone pays shipping, I'm allowed to send it, provided you use it to build the deltabot (and buy us a beer if we're ever near you guys ).

Ja. UM Built a delta bot once. But we have quite a few parts that are rejected but would work with a bit of hacking.

Mein Deutsch is nicht sehr gut, aber ich kan es gut genough lesen. Wir haben sehr viel altes Teile von UM originals und UM 2. Wann sie Teile brauchen, dann kan ich probieren diese nach euch zu senden.

All those parts are from a single injection mold. Sounds like you didn't recieve that specifc part.

Its a bit hectic, but its perfectly doable if you tune the speed down for the first layer a bit. You only need the 3 screws. With a bit of practice it gets quite easy.

Nah it's just the most common mistake. People seem to think Daid put the remove function in because he likes to pesker people (He does like that, but thats not the reason )

I don't use paper. I never did. I've always leveled the bed by sight alone or by printing such a calibration pattern and adjust the screws on the go (adjusting them on the fly).

Did you always remove your SD card safely? This very much sounds like you didn't (and shows the reason why you should always safely remove SD cards!).

Set up a development environment, just as you would with any other code project. If you don't have experience with coding, Cura is not the project for you (due to complexity, lack of documentation, size, etc).

Unbuntu is not a requirement. You can develop it on windows.

Laat maar horen of het gewerkt heeft. We zijn overigens al op de hoogte van het probleem en hard aan de slag om een oplossing te vinden zodat het bij niemand meer voorkomt (het komt nu bij een percentage van de machines voor).

"after this, therefore because of this" You might be jumping to conclusions a bit. Cura has been calculating everything already for quite some time every time you press a key (way before 14.03). It doesn't need to wait, as the calculating is done in a seperate process with the lowest priority. Your operating system will scale this automatically.

Please post pictures of your print. It's impossible to debug without more information. Cura for the UM2 does not have a temperature setting as those are on the machine. This is done because the temp settings are material dependant, which the machine should know. If you want to change the temps; you can do this in the 'materials' menu of the machine. There is a change log in the software, which is shown when a new version is instaled. More people have noted that this isn't easy, so this will probably be changed. Adhering to the OSX standard is neigh impossible. Especially because they are a bit vague about it themselves and seem to strive to complicate the lives of developers (even going to the point they seem to actively hate developers). I'm not sure how OSX handles this, but your version should be in the title bar.

Inb4 even higher prices

Yep.

If you have feature requests, please do them at the github issue tracker. It's almost impossible for us to keep track of things otherwise.

Het verhogen van de temperatuur zorgt er voor dat het plastic een stuk dunner word, vandaar dat het bij een (kleine) verstopping vaak wel uit de nozzle komt. Waar ik persoonlijk goede ervaringen mee heb gehad is de zgn 'atomic' methode. Verwarm de kop tot 260 graden, laat afkoelen tot +- 60 graden en trek dan het materiaal er uit. Vaak blijft er dan een enorme hoeveelheid rotzooi aan het fillament zitten, wat je er vervolgens af kunt knippen. Maakt de machine overigens een tikkend geluid als deze print? Als de motor de draad niet aan kan voeren, dan gaat deze 'stappen overslaan' wat een tikkend geluid geeft. Een andere mogelijkheid is dat hij gaat 'graven'; hij vreet dan een stuk uit het PLA.

If you're experienced with C++, then python should not prove a problem at all. The average C/C++ OS project is a huge pain in the @#$% to set up. Compared to those, Cura is a breeze. If you are unable to fix the (easier) python code, its quite likely that you don't have the required skills (yet). That being said; Yes, Cura has 2 parts. The GUI is in Python and the engine (aptly called CuraEngine) is C++.

There is no such thing as a 'better' 3D scanner. It depends on what you want to scan, how much knowledge you have and what detail / accuracy you need. If you want to scan the heads of people, the sense will sortof work. If you have a bit of technical knowledge, buy a asus xtion / kinect instead. If you have a STL, Cura will probably be able to print it. We can't say anything on wifi.

The price of 25$ a pop seems a whole lot more reasonable. I personally don't really think that the argument of not being able to scale is all that well; We (IMHO) are still a company that has gotten to where they are because of tinkerers & makers and those people need (affordable) spare parts. Also; The only rights Ultimaker has on those drawings is the exact drawings. If you change a very small parameter (say, put a useless hole somewhere or even a small identation) there is nothing that can be done about that legally. You'd have to ask a lawyer about your local laws, but in most cases copyright will not protect you. You could also sell the parts as 'satire' (Call them 'Even more expensive UM parts' and you should be good )