nallath

Is the problem less at higher temps? If so, it's another indication if water in your fillament.

You can set the speed at 9001 mm/s, but with low acceleration settings it won't even be able to get to that speed due to the limited size of the build platform. I think that comparing the print time should give a better (although still bit flawed) image. Another option would be to change the acceleration & speed with G-CODE (eg; hard code em) and give all printers the same file (although the 1.75 fillament should still get another file, for obvious reasons).

I've not seen a consumer grade printer with two heads that works well without tons of tinkering. So if you really, really want dual heads, prepare for a world of pain (and buy an UM original, we do have the kit for that). I know that it has been said that it would be released for July, but that has been a big miscommunication. It has been quite clear that this date was unreachable for a long time. We really do see the need for an extra head, as this could solve a ton of problems (support material anyone?) and add quite a few nice features (nozzle for infill that is bigger, small nozzle for detail, etc). It's not my project, but I'm really sorry that it's not there yet.

What you found is a fundamental problem of (FDM) 3D printing. The printer needs some surface to deposit the material onto. If you try to print in the air, it has nothing to be supported on. This 'collapses' your print. There are some hacks & tricks that you can use to prevent / lessen this issue. Try using support material (Cura has some options for this), changing the print orientation and lower temperature.

With fairly basic math skills, you could calculate this faster then trying to find (and learn) any kind of simulation software.

You should also note that it needs to have a quite low static (and dynamic) friction with PLA.

PLA is hydroscopic. This means is sucks up water, a bit like a sponge. It will swell up somewhat if this happens (This is why PLA must be stored dry!). If something is biodegradable, it will generaly not stand water for a long time, especially not the chloride of a pool. I'd recommend using ABS or coating the PLA with PVC glue. Although i'm not quite sure if those are able to stand the chemicals in a pool.

This is going to be my mantra; 'Did you safely remove your SD-card?'

Could be both, depends on where it broke.

Like we have said in this topic several times; Don't expect it any time soon. There are tons of reasons why this is somewhat problematic. Also, the current issues have priority over adding new features.

We don't produce the material. I'm not quite sure who makes what, but they only sell in large quantities.

If one of the blades is broken it also makes a freaking lot of noise.

That depends really. In most cases you see the failed stuff pop up on the forums. It might seem like a lot, but not if you hold it against the numerous times that it succeeded (and nothing is posted).

It is possbile to control the UM through USB. Its just not as nice as 'the real deal'

As far as my info goes; this has nothing to do with the heated bed. Its possible to get a small leak near the hotend, which will result in this.

err I meant openscad see-> www.openscad.org

This is a pretty decent print. How did you notice that the pulleys are eccentric? If you are refering to the outer bits of the pulleys; they will probably be eccentric; They are not specced to a very high tolerance. What matters is that the part were the teeth of the pulley are is nice and centric.

Just scale the holes with a few percent. This is why modeling with oSCAD is so awesome; its very easy to change the parameters.

Ik zou een 0.35 pakken. 0.4 Kan iets te groot zijn. Extrudeert de machine op 260 graden wel? Het kan ook het telfon tussen stukje zijn, daar hebben we problemen mee gehad (Deze is bij nieuwere machines nu ook gemaakt van glasgevuld teflon ipv gewoon teflon). Om dat te vervangen zou je contact op moeten nemen met support.

This is why local UM evenings would be pretty cool; You could have small market booth there that sells spare parts.

If you read a few more posts, you'd notice that the 90 usd is not the price for the tip, but the price of the head.

As long as it doesn't exceed 3mm you should be good.

It is possible to break the heated bed by using the wrong thermistor setting in Marlin.

Pfeh, the two extra people would be a tight fit. ATM I share +- 16m² with four people.

There is no such thing as 'the best PLA'. There is good PLA and there is bad PLA. But which of the good materials is the best for you wholly depends on what you are trying to print (and even on what machine).