Dim3nsioneer

Leave it. IMHO there is no reason to use the filament guide. It's at the wrong place actually. On my UM2 filament goes directly from the spool on the holder into the feeder; and it works great.

If the progress bar is full but no estimates are displayed it means Cura is still working on the object. In this stage, it is working on the plugins. Most probably you have a plugin activated which produces an endless loop. Deactivate all plugins and you'll get the estimates back.

It's sometimes a bit difficult to give further advice if one does not get an answer on questions already asked... :(

Do I read too much between the lines if I just saw the word 'currently'? :???: How much effort would it be to realise the proper solution? I think the quick and dirty solution is not much better than the status quo. The interesting question is how to deal with e.g. a cylindrical shape. How limited are you by patents?

According to a contact I had to a company working with Trespa it cannot be laser cut but water jet cut.

First, congratulation on your ordering and welcome to the forum! The dimensional accuracy is a very interesting question. As I do not print ABS I cannot give you proper numbers for the accuracy to be expected with this material. With PLA, which has a substantially smaller shrink effect while cooling down, I got positioning accuracies down to 0.1mm on nearly any dimension, coming mainly from the play of the belts. However, bores will always be up to half a millimeter smaller in diameter than they should and outer contours 0.1-0.2mm larger. It's nearly impossible to predict. Or it would require a software similar to the software used for tool design in injection moulding. The usual way to go is try and error. Print the part once, measure the important dimensions and adjust the model, print again etc. But this is the nice thing about printing with a consumer 3D printer, the costs of a print are much smaller than with a professional machine while quality differences shrink every day. If everything is well adjusted and all screws are tight, then prints should be quite repeatable. Everything else is a hint that something is not as it should be.

First, Daid, thanks for asking... :-P The layer view / toolpath is important for me to check is slicing is done in the way I want it to have. This includes e.g.: - accuracy of vertical walls (all layers well aligned?) - thin walls: number of lines used (too thick?) - infill spacing correct? - combing lines visible? - small details sliced properly? - lines vertically aligned in a way which makes the print weak at some point? Thus, it is important for me to be able to distinguish the individual lines. There is actually an effect on both of my Windows 8 machines that makes it impossible to get a resonable feeling for the lines: Both graphics chips use the NVidia drivers, i.e. are quite common. What I really, really miss in Cura layer view is a representation of the actual print speed. Therefore, I often use gcode.ws for checking individual layers. Having an idea how fast or slow a layer is printed is important to e.g. set the correct TweakAtZ-layer. I'm also not completely happy with the way travels and retracts are displayed in Cura. These lines are too thin at the moment for my taste. Again, gcode.ws uses bullets for retraction which are well visible (but can be switched off if they cover something important). Finally, I agree with Jonny for the layer selection. Less is sometimes more... And really finally: I hope that the layer numbering of the GUI and in the gcode will be the same in Pink Unicorn. @JonnyBischof: For 1., try Shift+Up or Shift+Down...

I did a 11.5h print yesterday on my UM2 which runs with Ultimaker2Marlin 14.06.2. I had no problem at all (means no reset or similar).

Bei welcher Temperatur hast du gedruckt?

Have you installed the Arduino drivers which came with the newer Cura versions? I think to remember that new drivers were included recently and that Cura needs these new drivers to work properly. But I'm not 100% sure...

https://github.com/Ultimaker/UltimakerOriginal/tree/master/1142_Ball_Bearing_693ZZ

Did you set a time limit until when a ticket is to be answered? I had the impression the main problem was that people didn't know in which time they could expect an answer an were not patient enough.

Well, if it is the firmware to cause a print abort then we will soon know as UM2 of any age will be affected when their users update the firmware. The longest print job I did so far on my UM2 was something between 4 and 5 hours. But a longer print is scheduled for the next few days.

Hmmm... since V14.06.2 there is a new source file included in the build which is called lifetimestats.cpp. It does things which are runtime-related. So Marcus, please specify which version of Ultimaker2Marlin (the firmware) you are referring to: 14.06.1 or 14.06.2? Marlin2Ultimaker 14.06.1 came with Cura 14.06 and Marlin2Ultimaker 14.06.2 came with Cura 14.06.1. Cura is the slicer software and just the installation program for the firmware (Thus, please don't use 'Cura' when referring to the firmware.)

Great to hear! Congrats! There were some post during the last few months which could have driven potential customers to a competitor. UM did not deserve most of these posts. However, such angry posts usually originate from something which needs attention...

Hmmm... lead time is coming down. Is this good or bad? Depends on the reason. If UM has made an effort to bring it down at constant ordering rate, then it's good. If order rate has decreased dramatically due to bad press (e.g. here in the forum), then it's bad.

I only had this issue with cheap filament, never with quality filament like Colorfabb, Faberdashery or DiamondAge.

Aha, d.h. Du hast das NinjaFlex getestet und den 'Gut-zum-Druck'-Stempel draufgedrückt?

Freut mich zu hören, dass Euch das Filament gefällt. Würde mich (und wahrscheinlich einige andere im Forum) noch interessieren, bei Gelegenheit ein paar hübsche Bilder zu sehen... :-P

I just had the first clog on my UM2. And I followed gr5's instructions for the atomic method http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4118-blocked-nozzle/?p=33691. It worked perfectly! Thanks gr5! :cool: My UM2 works again like a charm... until the next clog. :eek: edit: On the left: first result of the atomic method; on the right: to make sure, nothing is really left inside the nozzle, the atomic method was used again.

The question wasn't stupid at all. Actually it would be better if 'Preheat ABS Bed' could be 'Preheat ABS Bed Only' but there is not enough space on the display. There is even a bigger problem with the number of digits in other languages than English (Marlin comes in 13 languages up to now). But there is another issue related to the 'Preheat PLA/ABS Bed' options. When you select a preheat option including a hotend and select the bed only option afterwards, the hotend is still on. I think, it should then switch off the hotend. What do you (or others!) think?

ABS gibt häufig Probleme, v.a. mit Warping. Auch bei diesem Material bist Du weiter als manch anderer. Meiner Einschätzung nach wird ABS an Bedeutung verlieren und zumindest teilweise durch PETG ersetzt. Das hat eine Glastemperatur von (je nach Hersteller) 75-82°C. Das genügt für sehr viele Anwendungen bereits (z.B. Geschirrspültauglichkeit, beliebige Lagertemperatur, Outdoor,...). Darüber hinaus ist es ziemlich schlagfest. Es gibt wenige Anwendungen, für die PETG ungenügend und ABS genügend ist. Allerdings ist die Farbauswahl bei PETG im Moment noch sehr beschränkt.

That's exactly what the fw is supposed to do. The option 'preheat ABS Bed' means to preheat the bed only without preheating any hotend. Its background is the fact that some heated beds take quite some time to reach target temperature. The hotend might be leaking all the time and at the time the bed is finally heated up, the hotend is empty enough to cause serious underextrusion. Or even worse, the filament is very sensitive and is burned to a brownish slack during the heat-up time of the bed and might cause a clog.

I would expect temperature difference to be quite small between left and right as the heatsink is quite massive and made from aluminium which is not the worst thermal conductor...

Hey Ian, you're almost two months early! The 3D print show in London is begin of September...