Dim3nsioneer

The 14-piece-version makes sense. I had some serious issues with some details on the 4-piece-version which I expect not to pop up with the 14-piece-version as these details have been split into separate parts. One really good thing I learned when printing the 4-piece-version was how to position the overhangs to get them as much cooling as possible on the UM2. I will not paint it. My goal is to print it as good as possible without post processing. I would anyway be disappointed by my own handcraft as I'm certainly not as talented as other people here on the forum starting with Valcrow...

Aaron, you may ask Ultimaker if they could borrow you the 'Kamermaker' (the oversized Ultimaker which prints concrete with a build volume of 2x2x3m if I remember correctly), then you could just print your new own place.

You're a philistine... this is Obi-Wan's lightsaber! Sith cloak...pfff.... :rolleyes: btw: some little teaser (this is just the 4-piece-version)

Who's the more foolish...the fool or the fool who follows him? :mrgreen:

My UM Original is just printing the first of the 14 parts... I plan to print everything in 0.06mm resolution and with Diamond Age PLA.

Which fan are you referring to? The one 5V fan a the back of the print head or the two 12V fans at the sides? For the 5V / 25mm fan at the back an ebmpapst 525N seems to be a good choice; a bit pricy but silent.

Do you want to change it on the fly? Then you can use the 'Tune' menu on your UM2. You also can adjust the temperature before print in the Materials settings. If you want to change it at a certain height of your print, the TweakAtZ plugin in Cura is maybe a good choice...

Check the expert settings: Is any 'fix horrible' option set? If yes, disable it...

There is an alternative to new rods: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/bearing-adapter-for-direct-drive-um-original On the other hand, if your original rods are not really straight, then this is the ideal reason to buy new ones...

Any calibration based on printing an object is pointless IMHO. However, I think it makes sense to check if a travel of e.g. 100mm is 100mm or 99.3mm or 101.1mm...and adjust the steps per unit...

I agree that lifting the head should be faster due to less weight which has to be moved. However, I never had that problem with the z hop on my UM1. What z motor coupling do you use on your UM1?

What epsilon do you use for the thermal images of the printhead as it is bare Aluminium?

@phippsi: Bitte gib doch an, ob es um einen UM1 oder um einen UM2 geht; die Konstruktionen sind sehr unterschiedlich.

As Didier Klein already pointed out, using the plugin twice gives you the desired result. There are a few reasons against changing the original principle of a threshold to an interval: - Cura doesn't offer the possibility to have more than one value in an input box. So it would have to be a second input box. But: - On an UM2 (UltiGCode), the plugin doesn't know what temperature was set before the plugin changed it. That's also the reason why the plugin doesn't reset the values for multiple-object-prints on an UM2. So, to what value should the plugin return after the interval? But I will keep your input in mind. It would be nice if there would be a command in Ultimaker2Marlin which resets e.g. the temperature to the material defaults. There is a command which resets everything (M501) but - well - it resets everything. :sad:

It's not impossible... When UltiGCode is used the UM2 takes default values from the material settings for flow, fan speed and filament diameter as well as for the hotend temperature. For the bed temperature the UM2 takes the higher value of both current settings and material settings. But the speed indeed isn't handled and would stay the same until powered off. It might be reasonable to reset it to 100% at the end of the print. I will do the same for the UM1.

As I plan for an update of the TweakAtZ plugin, please let me know if there are any feature requests. Or report a bug you found ages ago... Deadline: July 3rd. Thanks.

@3Poro: Difficult to say from just seeing a picture if a device is good or not. If you show me pictures from the inside, I could tell you. However, the I would not expect the second one to be efficient due to the size. The larger the better. @Jonny: Somewhere on my todo list is actually to do a similar study as the one I put the link above. The problem is not the equipment but the time needed to do it... :sad: And I would not recommend to run a domestic ESP in an environment with combustible gases. However, there are ESPs for such applications which are built accordingly.

For some time I'm quite a fan of the atomic method for getting a clean nozzle. This method is named after http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/user/7232-mostlyatomicbob/who described the method for the first time http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/3561-ultimaker-2-extruder-nozzle-blocked/&do=findComment&comment=28940. It is well known in the meantime that for PLA one has to pull at 90°C. However, I tried the method with some other materials - and failed. I would like to open this thread for collecting experience by all of you with this method, especially for other materials such as ABS, PETG, Nylon, ... Other knowledge such as typical temperatures which have to be reached before the filament is cooled down and pulled out is also highly welcome.

Electrostatic precipitators are excellent for filtering nano particles. edit: However, most devices from China have a miserable efficiency.

Nano particles never loose their aggressivness; they are aggressive by their small nature. This was published last year: http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S1352231013005086 It compares ultrafine particle emissions from both PLA and ABS.

In most cases, plugins which work with UltiGCode also work fine on standard RepRap GCode. The other way round it is much more difficult due to missing information such as print temperature.

There is not necessarily a correlation between smell and nano particles. Best examples are candles. They produce many nano particles even if they burn normally and produce no smell. If they flicker the amount of nano particles produced raises by one to two order of magnitudes. Typical particle sizes for candles are around 15nm.

Can the bed also be mounted with the connector on the left? If yes, then Robert's cable chain, modified by drayson for the UM1, is a quite nice solution. I'm not sure if there is enough space on the right but maybe it can even be mounted there (the bed end piece would have to be mirrored).

I think to remember gr5 having written that the change took place in March). Maybe replacing the spring might indeed soften the issue if it doesn't solve it. However, I'm just gathering experience with the UM2...

Maybe Ultimaker thinks it is better to solve the existing issues with the UM2 such as the feeder problems before bringing a new piece of hardware onto the market which might cause the same issues again and some more in addition. I do.