Dim3nsioneer

Can you please provide a link?

You can assume that Austria and Switzerland have a similar situation as Germany as they belong to the same distributor's area. However, shortage of the Upgrade Kit is everywhere as far as I know and rather an issue at production than at distribution. Btw: email to iGo3D and ask for a quotation of the parts you need. They are quite quick with their response.

Hmm... you might save some watts due to decreased thermal losses of the heat bed. However, without having seen any simulation or measurements I expect the effect not being that large. You may test it by temporarily closing the front opening and measuring the power consumption with both setups (open front vs. closed front).

The 221W correspond to the ABS settings; maybe it's a few watts less as you need only one hotend (the power supply was chosen for heating the bed and two hotends). It doesn't matter if you use an enclosure or not, if you print long enough you will release the full heat into the room unless you have an additional cooling system which transfers that heat directly from the enclosure to the outside of the room. In any case you should design the AC system accordingly to the worst case scenario if you don't want your printer dying a thermal death...

You will have a thermal power of exactly 221W...

@SandervG: Any ETA when the 'unread-button-leads-to-second-last-page' bug will be fixed? Edit: it looks as if the 'first unread' position is not updated anymore for a lot of threads. The unread feature turned useless...

https://github.com/Dim3nsioneer/Cura-Plugins/wiki/Tweak-At-Z-plugin

@Minkeproducts:

https://ultimaker.com/en/community/6436-a-tougher-extrusion-test-o?page=1&sort=#reply-143029

Somehow the gcode seems to have vanished. I put it on my dropbox (no guarantee how long the link will work!): https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/15273556/Ultimaker/gcode/UM2%20-%208-15mm3%20-%20Extrusion%20Test.gcode I hope @illuminarti is fine with that. It was his gcode.

It's a bug. Take this dev version.

No link in the unread list is working anymore properly for me. I'm back to the shitty days where I had to think how long ago I read the new posts for the last time... :(

Is it just me or do you also experience the problem that clicking on a topic within the 'unread' list leads to the topic but there the unread items are not marked and you land on the second last page?

Forget 15.06. There will be an open Beta of Cura 2.1 within the next few days which has the lay flat feature again included.

As far as I know 3dSolex let them produce in a place in Norway or Sweden; @swordriff may want to correct me. The 3dSolex couplers are made of TFT which is not a standard PTFE material but has improved heat resistivity. And manufacturing the couplers is about tolerances. They are very important as you want no gap between Bowden tube and TFT coupler as well as between TFT coupler and stainless steel coupler. Quality has its price as it has its costs. But also its benefits.

Can you please tell us what PTFE coupler you are talking about? There is no 1.75mm PTFE coupler from Ultimaker and the TFT coupler from 3dSolex should have a similar bore/opening as the 2.85mm version.

Room temp didn't help. Hmmm... freezer. I'll try it next time. Got the print now off finally. Sucked it into water until I could dive under with a spatula from one side. Didn't feel very comfortable having all those stories of damages glass surfaces in mind. But the glass still looks ok - uff...

Maybe that's the reality week. After @Nicolinux had recently some challenges with a small print I'm a bit knocked-off by - well - actually a success. So far I always printed PLA without any glue on the warm glass (60°C). With larger prints I got a tiny little bit of delamination at the edges despite using a brim. For a large base area print I decided to use a PVA glue-water solution. It actually worked. No warping at all. The problem is: it still works. It's glued to the gold glass. Any attemp to remove the print failed so far. In the meantime I took the glass out of the printer and put it into warm water trying to dissolve. Maybe it works. I just don't want to damage the glass. However, I wanted to ask the community if someone knows a better recipe for getting a PLA print of the bed when having used PVA glue solution. One thing is clear: I took a bit too much of the glue solution (mixed it about 1:8). If I use the solution again, I'll take less.

So what was the solution now?

@valcrow: That's exactly what I would have suggested if @Nicolinux would have ask for...

@Nicolinux: Do you want some advice or shall we rather keep silent... ?

Hmmm... maybe the adhesion between PLA and PVA can be influenced with the thickness of the first PVA layer? Please don't ask me how to do e.g. a thin first PVA layer on top of PLA with the current software but it might be interesting to see if this is a way physically anyway. Maybe rising the ambient temperature helps? Are you currently printing with an open printer at room temperature? What about a heated chamber for that purpose? Just ideas...

And rob a bank so you can pay it...? Does your distributor have about the same prices as UM had in their store?

Almost. I of course solved the problem of different hole positions with a 3D printed part...

Google it including "site:ultimaker.com"