Dim3nsioneer

@martin-bienz, wie hast Du den Bondtech eingestellt? Sehr stark?

OK, first thanks for finding out! A copper shielding and wiring can indeed cause a lower reading if it is so badly isolated from the ambient that it conducts part of the thermal energy into the two wires and/or radiates it to the ambient. Well, at some point there should be a thermal balance again and the reading should be stable. One could adjust the characteristic in Marlin in order to compensate.

Mit welcher Düsengrösse druckst Du? Bei welcher Temperatur druckst Du? Druckst Du mehrere miteinander? Welche Schichthöhe verwendest Du?

https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2/raw/master/um2%20assembly%20manual%20V1.1%20_english.pdf

Your question somehow suggests you already did the appropriate calculation and saw it will leave the elastic range? If you are looking for an official answer, you may want to submit a support ticket to Ultimaker or to your local distributor. The other question is why someone would like to print a solid block of ABS. I would expect any reasonable model not having 100% infill of that volume. I might be wrong.

Voltage: 12V Size:

That's a double post of this, isn't it?

Die vier Schrauben des Motors von aussen lösen, den Motor mit vernünftigem Druck runterdrücken und die Schrauben wieder anziehen.

By default it's the same as the mode as the first three axes. But you can change it for the E-axis only by using M82 (absolute) and M83 (relative).

Welches Material druckst Du denn? PLA?

I think @gr5 might be able to provide some help here as he did some PWM work in the Ultimaker2 version of Marlin for the heated bed of the UM2 Go.

That's not the solution. I always delete them and still get a lot of ghost notifications. edit: as a bonus I got a ghost notification for this very post...

Those Daikin devices are not very efficient in collecting particles. I have some experience whith them from a previous job and must say that the collector stage of their ESP is much too short. The best cleaning effect of the Ururu device comes from the humidification stage.

Im start.gcode kann die G1 E3 Anweisung ruhig auf G1 E15 o.ä. erweitert werden. Dann werden anstelle von 3mm 15mm als Priming benutzt. Der UM2 z.B. benutzt etwa 8mm wenn ich mich richtig erinnere.

It's going to be interesting to see what UM will charge for that UM2->UM2+ upgrade kit. Maybe more than one kit would make sense? It makes e.g. a difference if a user already has an Olsson block or not (around 100 Euro with 4 nozzles). @Valcrow: You can replace the fans with ones from Sunon or, if you are really sensitive to the sound level, with some from ebmpapst (I have a quite expensive ebmpapst 255N on my UM2 which is super-silent). How would you rate the noise from the new geared feeder then compared to the old UM2 feeder? I ask this because I recently installed a Bondtech geared feeder which added quite some noise to the machine.

Latest UM2 had a spare stainless steel coupler as a spare part with them. That is probably the easiest way. Otherwise try to unscrew it HOT and some people also used WD40. If everything goes wrong you may get a spare stainless steel coupler from your Ultimaker dealer/distributor or maybe more easily from 3dSolex.

Just got three ghost notification at once... it's getting worse...

Tja, 0.05mm Schicht bei 0.25mm Düse ergibt einen extrem kleinen Durchfluss. Da muss man schon ordentlich schnell drucken, dass es nicht zu Verflüssigung kommt. Ich empfehle dickere Schichten.

I hope it is ok... packaging looks a bit beaten... but maybe that's to be expected given the relatively long journey it took... Just make sure you run the printer in a not too humid environment... same goes for storing the filament. But: welcome to the forum!

Theoretically yes. Practically I have no backlash problems on my direct drive UMO with flexible couplings. So I stick with 'never change a running system'...

This is what I do: I check my print with gcode.ws. I then identify the layer where the print speed drops to about half of the intended velocity due to the minimum layer time. On that layer I use the TweakAtZ plugin to switch down something like 10 degree. You can also distribute the change to e.g. five layers (no. of layers used to tweak). Here you have the documentation of the plugin.

But it doesn't happen if you have an autolevelling feature in the printer. And as I understand this is the advantage of this pro(?) machine: it has auto-features which makes all adjusting obsolete. These features certainly have their price. Then it is able to print with soluble support which is known to be one key feature of dual extrusion (which didn't happen on the UM2). I agree with you that it is a piece of very self-confident marketing. But that's ok for me. We all have a brain and should be able to distinguish between hard facts and promises. What's really wrong for me with this video is the fact they compare a professional or at least semi-professional machine with desktop 3D printers which I assume are all significantly cheaper while we all know that 'cheap' is not the word we would use for an UM2... About that print comparison: Some of the bad features coming from the UM2 were certainly caused by bad settings as @iroberti and @SandervG pointed out. Others are really a lack of the Ultimaker ecosystem which includes Cura. For instance the missing support in one picture causing a terrible results. Support with the legacy Cura was really bad and often it was just not produced by legacy Cura when it should have been; it's a bit better now with the new Cura as far as I can see; I assume they used legacy Cura (which would be the proper way: to take the last stable version). Same goes for the missing thin walls. It's Cura. Quite a number of users have that problem. You can read it in this forum. So you can't blame them for these facts. Don't get me wrong please. I'm fully conviced you can achieve even nicer prints with an UM2 than on the Mojo but it is certainly easier on a fully controlled machine if you have no idea about FFF/FDM printing. And for the marketing slime you just have to grow yourself a layer of PTFE...

Hast Du eine Banane in einer der Achsen? Das siehst, wenn Du den Druckkopf (langsam, am besten bei ausgeschaltetem Gerät) von der Mitte her in jede Richtung bewegst und dabei darauf achtest, ob der Abstand zwischen Endblock und Rahmen sich verändert. Ev. hilft es schon, ein ganz klein wenig mehr Luft zwischen Düse und Glasplatte zu schaffen (aber die Linien müssen immer noch schön zusammen sein, sonst ist es zuviel).

Nope, Robert's remark just tells something about the different cladding.

The rubbing of the belts against the pulleys comes from not well adapted lengths of the spacers between a pulley and the corresponding ball bearing. I printed myself some spacers with corrected lengths. Since then I could reduce the rubbing to a very tiny amount. Just moving a pulley only leads to additional play of the corresponding axis as the pulleys fix the axis' position. The black specks should be removed before a print with light filament. I found the fans blow them easily onto your print (standard fan duct).