Dim3nsioneer

Soweit ich weiss handelt es sich um Birkensperrholz.

The plugin does actually not kill anything except the second ooze shield line on the same height (a Cura bug that might be eliminated by now). The plugin works such that it checks if an extruder swap is necessary or not and supresses it if not.

Make sure the Bowden tube sits really properly on the teflon coupler and the end of the Bowden tube is flat. Quite a good trick is to mount the print head but to wait with tightening the four long screws completely until the Bowden tube dits firmly in its place. You may also check if the Bowden clip holder grabs the tube nicely. Scratches on the tube at this spot are an indicator it does not. Finally make sure you never retract more than about 12mm on an UMO.

That's extremely difficult atm. I would have suggested you hack my computer but as my ISP managed to kill my internet connection since Yesterday morning you have no chance... Seriously: I cannot publish it like the other plugins as it is extremely experimental and certainly does not work with some Cura settings. But I will think about a good way to share it.

Hi printrev, welcome to the UM forum! What machine do you have? On an Ultimaker Original, this rectraction can be found in the end.gcode in Cura. On an UM2 it is (hard)coded in the printer's firmware.

No, it's a different (unpublished) one.

It was done with a plugin...

Hast Du denn Deinen UM2 an einem ordentlich warmen Ort? Normalerweise fliesst selbst PLA unter Druck bei 20°C nicht so schnell davon... aber PLA fliesst natürlich schneller als PET oder ABS.

Dear @theDeugd, @SandervG et all there - you should work 24/7 just to bring back all the basics that were lost. All the detailed explanations, however they are justified in your eyes - are meaningless for us, the end users. The forum I used to love, trust and rely on was gone. Now it looks like it is going to come back. Please make the comeback sooner than later. Before it is too late. Well, at least for the UM people I met at 3d printshow London (@SandervG being one of them) I had the impression they would actually work 24/7 to improve the forum if this would make sense (it's not Sander who is coding the forum ... ) You may have the impression that improvement need some time to appear here. You're right. Because they are thoroughly tested by forum members before. Theses beta tests are something UM missed on the initial launch but introduced after the shitstorm and fruitful discussion with various forum members. And the beta testing goes on. UM is well aware that it should not take too long for improving the forum. And I must say it's quite ok what they have done in the last few weeks. Especially if you consider that there is a second, even larger software project in beta test phase (the new Cura).

The Github repository has been updated: TweakAtZ 4.0.2 RetractWhileCombing 15.06

For all those who got a bit annoyed by the additional status bar of the TweakAtZ and the RetractWhileCombing plugin (which stole the focus): get yourself Cura 15.04; with the latest TweakAtZ version (4.0.2) included there the problem is gone. I will put it on Github as soon as I find some time. Same goes for the RetractWhileCombing; I'll put an updated version onto Github.

Ha, I liked it twice...

Really good print quality... as far as I can judge from the pictures. Congratulations! Dual head seems to be the way to go for proper dual prints. On the 3D printshow in London I had a look on the BCN sigma printer which works the same way. The guys there could even leave the ooze shield away as they have a rubber blade to strip off oozed material at the start of each extruder sequence. Maybe that's something to make this setup perfect?

sweet man, Let me know when you get in smaller nozzles. I have been searching for ones that are smaller. Habe den möglicherweise kleinsten Elektrobohrer von @labern an der 3D printshow in London gesehen. @swordriff: Wenn Du diesem Mann eine 0.15mm Düse gibst, wird sein nächster PRint nur unter dem Mikroskop zu sehen sein...

And which is your country?

Frag doch einfach mal per Direktnachricht bei swordriff hier im Forum nach. Er ist der Betreiber von 3dsolex und spricht auch deutsch.

Didier, vas-tu faire aussi une version en anglais?

UM has always been interested in developments done by the community. So a look at recent modifications done by community members such as @iroberti, @foehnsturm, @ultiarjan and many others might give you a hint what UM is looking into. UM is currently testing a new Cura which will lack dual extrusion at its start. This is mainly caused by the withdrawal of the UM2 dual extrusion announcement. But multiextrusion will be implemented in the new Cura later on. You actually don't have to be very visionary to assume that proper multiextrusion will be something UM is working on. So if this is the key feature for you, then wait. In all other cases get yourself an UM2 and you will be happy. If you want to produce larger prints, go for the UM2 Extended. If you're looking for something easily to be transported, the UM2 Go might be interesting (but be aware that the Go has no heated bed; but I expect a community mod for this quite soon).

Spiralize? Wall only? infill 0%? Which Cura version?

Maybe also worth checking is if the glass of the printed bed lies properly on the aluminium of the heater pcb and not only on the heads of the screws.

Nothing to add to Robert's list... Personally, I would first try with the brim only and keep the glue for later if it still doesn't work. But just out of the reason I don't like this smeary glue; I'm pretty sure it works...

You mean something like this:

What do you mean by 'corners are shrinking'? Are the edges not as sharp as on layers below anymore (increased edge radius)? The bed heating might have an influence but usually it can be cured by correct fan settings. Make sure you have the right amount of cooling. Switching off the heated be is a bad idea as your print will then soon come off the bed. But adjust the bed heating to something like 60 or 55 °C if you're still higher. I read about people going down almost to 40°C during the print. You can adjust the bed temperature in the 'tune' menu during print or you can use the TweakAtZ plugin if you want to reduce it at a certain height/layer no.

Spoiler alert: A cool view of the object for finding problems within the model might be something that would get some attention in this contest...

The tricky thing is to switch it on at the right time when it's needed again. This has to be done before the swap gcode is executed. Otherwise you would have to wait for an eternity until your print is finished. And you don't have to switch it off completely; just reduce temperature as much that it stops oozing.