Dim3nsioneer

Ich habe das Flachlegen-Tool benutzt als die Säule fast richtig dastand und das hat es dann perfekt auf die richtige Fläche gestellt. Das Problem ist, dass ich anhand des generierten GCodes nichts sehe, was bei falschen Druckeinstellungen so einen regelmässigen und um das Objekt herumwandernden Effekt produzieren könnte. Deshalb wollte ich mal exakt gleich wie Du slicen. Es scheint aber immer noch Unterschiede zu geben. Was mich noch erstaunt ist die Kombination 210°C und 20mm/s. Bei 210°C würde ich mit mindestens 30mm/s drucken. Hast Du übrigens auch mal 0.1mm Schichtdicke ausprobiert?

Kann ich mir vorstellen, dass meine Frage etwas verwirrt hat. Ich will darauf hinaus, wie Du das Modell gerade aufsetzt. Von Auge? In 5°-Schritten? Oder verwendest Du die Funktion von Cura, die 'flach ablegen' oder so ähnlich ('lay flat' in der englischen Version) heissen müsste? Ist die erste Schnicht in der Layer view komplett oder steht das Ding irgendwie doch noch ein bisschen schief? Soetwas kann durchaus zu recht komischen Slicing-Ergebnissen führen.

I'm glad I could help and it turned out well.

Sounds as if you're getting closer. It's possible that it's the bearings. Another possibility would be the rods. But the bearings are actually more likely to be the problem. Maybe your printer was hit during shipment? This might be a good point to contact support if you have not yet. Maybe they can send you new bearings.

Oder der Drucker ist zu klein... Das Modell ist ja in Ordnung. Allerdings liegt es ja ein bisschen schief in der Gegend so dass man es drehen muss. Wie hast Du das gemacht mit dem Drehen und Skalieren, Schritt um Schritt?

Das scheint keine korrekte STL Datei zu sein.

The bearings are left and right. The nut is that cheap looking brass piece at the back of the build plate (center). The piece de resistance might be in there as the pattern occurs regularly. Take the whole build plate away and unscrew the nut and clean it thoroughly.

Sorry, my mistake... I guess you first have to execute these steps with Printrun/Pronterface one by one (in the terminal window of Pronterface) to make sure you use x, y and z coordinates for the special homing process which do not destroy your print. Once you are sure they work, drive to the safe z position. Then I think it's best to safe the gcode you used so far and to edit it. Part of the start.gcode has to be kept in maybe; it depends on the current status of your hotend. Is it still warm? If yes, then I guess the material has been carbonized in the meantime and you need to purge the hotend (taken into account below). In the start.gcode everything starting from 'G28 X0 Y0' has to be modified until 'M117 printing...'. G0 Z80.0G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstopsG0 X0 Y180; make sure this position is safe for z homingG28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstopsG1 Z75.8 F?whateverstandshere?G92 E0 ;zero the extruded lengthG1 F200 E20 ;extrude 20mm of feed stockG92 Exxx ;adjust the extruded length;Put printing message on LCD screenM117 Printing... You then have to delete everything BUT THE VERY LAST G1 COMMAND between this M117 command and the comment ';LAYER:378'. Enter the E coordinate of this last G1 command into the G92 command (where the 'xxx' are). Then replace the G1 of this command with a G0 and delete the E-coordinate of the command. You should now have a file which will continue at the beginning of the layer where it stopped. This will lead to overextrusion for the part of the layer which was already printed. I recommend someone else looks over the things I've written here and checks it. I might have made a mistake somewhere and four eyes usually see more than two.

I suggest the following: 1) Drive to a z height where you can savely home the x and the y axis (e.g. by 'G0 Z80') 2) Home x/y by 'G28 X0 Y0' 3) Drive to a x-y-position where you can safely home the z axis (e.g. by 'G0 X0 Y180') 4) Home z by 'G28 Z0' Let me know if you need more help with the travelling or homing commands.

What about the nut? Does it have play on the thread?

Quite uncomfortable situation. So you know exactly where the print stopped (layer no. or z height), maybe even where in the layer? You don't have a heated bed or you managed to keep the heated bed warm? Then you have everything what's needed to continue the print. @gr5 has once written detailed instructions how to continue a failed print but I cannot find it here on the new forum. Maybe he can point out where it is/was. If Cura turns out to be not reliable enough for USB printing in your case you should give Printrun/Pronterface a try for now. As you realised, printing from an Ulticontroller is the best thing you can do. edit: Did you loose any of the three coordinates? Is re-homing necessary?

I usually use a piece of cloth and a spray for de-greasing e.g. bicycle chains. Afterwards you should quickly put grease or oil on it (I use a special chain oil).

Did you clean the z axis before re-lubricating?

Is it possible you mixed up the wires for the temp sensor (thin black ones) and for the heater pcb (thick gray ones) when fasten them on the heated bed?

IMHO a printed manual should be in the kit (which is not, at least not in the kit I used). It's certainly not a big cost factor to have a few A3 sheets printed and stitched together...

Yes, there is a small bulge before the narrowing (the latter of which probably comes from pulling out). This bulge might be an indication that there is a small gap between Bowden tube and Teflon coupler. Checking the Bowden coupler as suggested by @labern is certainly the best thing you can do. Do also check the Bowden tube itself. If it has deep scars around the spot the Bowden coupler you might want to consider replacing the Bowden tube (you could actually also cut off a few mm to make the Bowden coupler holding the the Bowden tube at a clean spot, but you would have to cut very accurate to have a proper fitting between Bowden tube and Teflon coupler again).

It depends... There are always two connections; the first one is the 'heater' connection between 'hot bed' terminals on the shield and the connector marked 'switch j4' (see hbk manual page 13). There is not much power running through that cable, so I call it a logic connection. The second connection is the one between the temp3 connector on the shield and the temp connector J1 on the hbk pcb (page 14 right side). This one is for the temp sensor. If you run your UMO with only one extruder, you can establish a third connection which is described on the left half of page 14. It's a power connection which brings 19V from the hbk pcb to the shield and makes the old psu obsolete. In your case, there are two hotends which is too much for the new psu to drive and you should not make this third connection but use both psus. This description might have been a bit too detailed for you but maybe it will help some newbies...

The new pcb gets its power directly from the new psu. Only unplugging the new psu de-powers the new pcb (unplug the psu on the AC side, not on the DC side!). It's not so elegant. I recommend to plug everything into a switchable multiple socket and use this switch only for (de-)powering the UMO.

Maybe you want to check out this thread. Luckily the pictures seem to have survived porting from the old to the new forum.

Printed on a single machine type (Makerbot Replicator). Most probably with proprietary material from Makerbot. This is not what I would call representative. But might be a hint. Thanks for sharing anyway.

For objects with overhangs in any directions I sometimes used the trick to print them at a 45° angle using customized/modelled support which I cut away after print.

I have a few simple questions for all TweakAtZ users out there: How often do you need more than one instance of the plugin? What would it mean if only one instance would be possible? Could you live with just one instance if some other functionality would be added to the TweakAtZ (e.g. specification of an end layer)?

Something is a banana I would say. I remember having read about banana rods, banana pulleys and even banana glass plate of the heated bed here on the forum. You may also want to check if the glass plate of the heated bed sits properly on the heater pcb and is not lifted up by one of the four screw heads at one edge. A thicker first layer helps to avoid it. I usually use 0.2mm on my UM2.

@SandervG: I hope, you will not break down... Of course I could understand if someone would just be to tired. But it would be nice to have as many UM people there. Saying this means, I'll be there as well.

Gibt's die Möglichkeit, dass Du mal ein STL irgendwo bereitstellst, damit man sich das mal ansehen kann? z.B. auf Dropbox o.ä.