swordriff

Hardware Reset

Hello Mohissa! Sorry to hear you have difficulties! You do not say which materials you print and what temperatures. If you print at 230+, your Teflon coupler is cooked already ! I am guessing this is your problem. It stays "up" (pun intended!), while cold, and after 5-30min in print softens and collapses onto your filament. I will eat your old Teflon if this was not the fault (...). Change PTFE coupler. Good Luck!

35 watt heaters are On the edge. If the screw holding it does not press it against the wall, it has difficulties as pointed out by the 'old-boys' in here. Same if you put it in the standard block and the hole for 4mm heater is largish, usually the case. 50 -100 mikron is already largish I made the mistake of recommending to wrap the heater in Alu foil to make better contact in one case. Bad idea. Everything fused into Alubrassine. The 4mm heaters are hard to manufactiure. Even in big qty they cost 15 dollars and are still untested. Making the hole in the Olsson block bigger does not work, unfortunately. Heat transfer problems and other problems too.

this is @gr5 reply: I tried putting an e3dv6 nozzle on my UMO and it didn't work. :( The first issue was that I had to level the bed much higher because the nozzle is shorter. I was able to do this. Barely. The second issue was more serious - the glass is so close to the print head that the fan touches the glass. So to get it to work you either have to remove the fan shroud or you have to build a custom fan shroud. Other than that it's fine. It screws in and fits perfectly.

Hi! heat the head, and carefully screw the steel coupler more down ( to lift the block from the shroud). Lower printing temp 5 C because the Olsson block has a slightly longer heating chamber than the standard block. Some colours are worse with stringing than others. Material flow 100. Only reason to increase it is with woodfill etc.. or for effect when you play with nozzle size etc in cura. Loosen head assembly screws and "move" fan shroud fractionally to the side so it will not touch the new block. Good luck!

I just change the nozzle

ALL changes to the original UM2 has the potential for killing the warranty if not the printer. The motherboard of the UM2 is one of the parts which has the least amount of trouble, not that there is much fault elsewhere. It is usually the user who messes up. We (users) cannot agree on one single filament to use, one speed, one temperature , one model to print etc. Consequently, the number of possible configurations is practically endless. I have never heard about anone destroying the printer by changing the heater or temp sensor. I HAVE heard about a number of users destroying the temp sensor when changing the hot end block, while removing the sensor from the hot end block. This happens when changing the hot end for a new or when changing to an alternative hot end like the 3dsolex one. The ultimaker 2 mainboard is a clever design. There is an inherent power "load balancing" in play, which allows for quite freely use of power unless over a combined maximum. A 35 W heater will not kill the PCB. There are some users who use 40W heaters, who need to print at 295 C etc with fans.. Then 40W is the only way to go. For this there is a change of firmware too, to allow 295C (300, in fact is the max). The 40W heaters are quite expensive because there is such a high energy density. The hole and cartridge need to be very good fits, or the heater will not get rid of its energy and tries to destroy itself. Some standard heaters are only 18W, but most of the Um2s have 21-25W and you will not notice the difference.

Less fluctuations with 35W heater. When you reduce temp after 1st layer for instance, the temp does not drop so far below your new target since the 40% harder heater kicks in harder. On the upside there is no such effect.

Application Change, Wrong Nozzle Size! This does not apply to UM hot ends which are perfect 0.40mm nozzles. This ONLY applies to 3dSolex JET 025 Nozzles shipped after May 26th. These have no marking on the side. If they have 1 marking, they are ok. The faulty ones are in fact closer to 0.33 mm and you can use them as such by adjusting in Cura Settings. All customers will receive a replacement 0.25 JET nozzle in first Week of July. Sorry for the inconvenience.

Flexy filament will easily curl up if your teflon piece is worn and has an inner lip..

If the Block does not touch the fan shroud, it is no issue anymore., even if the distance is only 0.2 mm. There is the possibility that your heater is weak. My own UM2 had a heater of only 18W. I think a slower fan-on will help greatly. : Fan min 10- max 100. If your heater is weak, then fan max 50, maybe?

Hoi Martin! Das ist docht toll, dass Du mehr als 2.000 Stunden fast ohne Probleme drucken konntest! Ich denke @dim3nsioneer hat recht, dass die Bowden Tube abgeschliffen oder "dreckig" ist. 2ten sist es so, dass mit der Zeit im Mundstück Karbon sich ablagert. Die Wände sind nicht mehr rein u glatt. Du könntest versuchen Atomic Pulls zu machen, aber mit so viel Druck-Zeit ist das Mundstück bestimmt nicht mehr 0.4mm, und de Länge ist auch nicht mehr richtig. Die Kombination dieser Einzelheiten macht nicht für besseres Drucken. Wenn zb von PLA auf ABS umsteigst, dann belibt immer ein bisschen PLA stecken im MS, und diese verkohlet dann und "hockt an der Wand".

My guess is that the teflon coupler is ever so slightly deformed inside in the lower end (happens when printing extensively at 230+C.) The flexible material has even more problems passing this place. How to try: Heat hot end to 200. Wait 15-20 minutes for heat to move into Teflon so it deforms if it is weakened. Dismount bowden tube. Performing Atomic according to Epic support at www.3dverkstan.se (yes, it is in english), using any normal PLA. Verify that the PLA moves freely. Then, if the flexible material is really soft, you need a 10cm piece of bowden tube (which you have lying arounf, of course), and try to insert the flex material from there. If it stops it will be due to deformed Teflon coupler. Replace. If it moves freely then we are speaking of extruder / tube problems Load up with the flexibale stuff. MOVE MATERIAL in advanced settings. The Flex Material should push out of the bowden very hard indeed, so that you can almost not hold it by hans. If not, Replace feed with iRoberti feeder, and /or lubricate filament ever slightly 1 drop oil every yard or so, they say. Easier to try and see if the flex material does indeed move freely in tube. If it does, THEN its the feeder drive mechanism alignment/construction. If all this is not possible for you, there is a 26,14 percent chance it can save the day by loosening the 4 vertical shot end assembly screws a little, possibly offloading the teflon a little. But it is a little like peeing in the pants to keep warm, if you ever tried that! Good Luck!

You can get nozzles in various sizes at 3dSolex.

The biggest useful nozzle is 1.0mm The plastic needs to heat.

Hey! Joar in the forum has an UM2 which will not work, total underextrusion. We have changed heater, sensor, block, adjusted extruder. He has not been able to contiuously test the temperature. He says he will rerurn the UM2 and "do something else". Seems a professional and very computer literate guy. Could it be the mainboard? Is there a way to help him or should he return the machine to RS ONLINE. SANDER help us?

@Gr5 Veeery funny! No- its not. It just allmost wiped a big deal for me! I will sell them for 20e each haha! No please i need them back.

There is also this thing which can confuse the matter more: If you print PLA (happily), then change to ABS without performing Atomic Pulls accoding to Epic instructions at www.3dverkstan.se, then residue PLA in the nozzle will cook and carbonize at the higher temperature, and make subsequent printing difficult. The carbon sticks to the walls. This is one frequently overlooked source of endless big trouble. It lures people into printing at higher and higher temperatures (which works initially) and then suddenly there just is not enough heat transfer inside the hot end to print anything. Fix is brush up inside, or if you cannot, lots of atomics possibly with Nylon or something at higher temperature. I also have the experience that some cheap material is good, but mostly the european stuff totally outperforms! It is completely true that different colors from same manufacturer can print very differently.

Nozzle Product Replacement! There is an IMPORTANT application order change: Shipped end of May, and all of June.: Latest batch JET 025 nozzles from 3dSolex are not 0.25 at all. Due to a manufacturing mistake, it seems they are 0.35. I cannot say if it is like this with all of them, but a client has reported this issue. Fix: Use nozzle as an 0.35 (change settings in cura). All customers who have bought an 025 or as part of a Jet Set kit, will receive replacement nozzles in beginning of July. I deeply regret the trouble this may have caused during printing. If you do not get email from me this week-end, or you bought from a reseller, please contact me about the issue. Replacement nozzle(s) will ship from me directly to leave the reseller "out of the loop".

OMG @tinkergnome Thank you for being back!!

Thanks Ultiarjan. Last thing: do not leave the Wrench and pipe connected to the hot nozzle more than 10 secs, as the heat transfers through the pipe and weakens he wrench.. Always change nozzle at hot temperature, else anything can happen. I guess what happened to you is that you just did not tighten the nozzle. This is not a general problem. I have heard about 1 leak before, and there are now many hundred of these nozzles & blocks out there. Thanks !

Plastic on threading happens when not tight nozzle, Like @ultiarjan says, only screw it when hot! So to re-attach, move material (head is now hot) then slowly insert Dirty nozzle .. It will get hot, plastic melt and the screw in. Tighten with Torque Wrench in PLA (exactly!) until wrench skips. Print happily away...

I have been thinking for some time to make a similar ring, but a different use; to provide fan-shadow for the removable nozzles from 3dsolex, so that fan full not so easily creates an error.. .what do you advice?

I have asked anders Olsson to make a pair of ear-rings for my daughter, Thats how beautiful I think they are!

Dear Daniel! It could be in the feeder, Clogged nozzle Destroyed Teflon (if you "left it on" at 240+ for many hours without filament moving, Intermittently working temp sensor. Not well connected heater cable (easy to find on PCB) First Feeder: Can you go in advanced settings heat nozzle. Then remove the horeshoe clip holding the Bowden collett on the printhead assembly, Hold down the ring and remove the bowden from the print head assembly. The end of filament will stick out of the tube. Turn off power. Try to drag the filament out from the back. There should be very good resistance from the turning of the feeder wheel. If not, tighten the feeder pressure according to instructions; = 1 Problem solved. If Not; turn on power, advanced move material. Jog the wheel and move material. Be aware that the material can have a bump inside the feeder, so you need to "help" it past that by pushing hard from the back WHILE you turn the wheel. Now; the filament should push out VERY STRONGLY, almost so you can not hold it by hand, and pushing against the had inside is literally torture. By know we know your feeder works. Next glogged nozzle: Berform 3-10 Atomic Pulls. Check the Epic instructions at www.3dverkstan.se in english, one of the two best shops in Europe, btw. Use PLA and 210/90 or 210/80 if the pullout is very soft and elongated. Nozzle is now clean. Teflon check Pro-way: Dismantle head assembly, take out Teflon piece and check inner end. Must be straight, have no "lip" or inside cavity. If it has replace. Save the day by cutting/drilling away the lip. (Teflon decomposes slowly, and hyperbolically fast at 230+) It will become softer and when hot it will collapse into your filament and grip it. Lazy way: Heat head to 220. Wait 10 min. With a piece of straight filament (use hairdrier and straighten a 15cm piece for this)- try to feel if the teflon grips the filament when you move it up and down. Should be nothing. This is a bit difficult and requires some feel and experience. Heater and Temp sensor: There are temp sensors which do not work correctly over a certain temp. They are made with spot welding inside, and sometimes the connections somehow undo themselves at high temp. Heater has been known to not be well connected. Newer machines have a another fastening method on PCB. Pls check. How to check: Heat head to 220. Watch temp. Should be stable. IS it really hot? Touch from outside of nozzle with filament. Should melt a bump immediately. Re-assemble: Make sure the Bowden is FULLY inserted into white teflon. This is more fiddly than one may think. Hold the clamp ring down while juggling tube and watch closely. You will get a sense of when it is fully inside. If you fail here: endless trouble. Good luck!