swordriff

Cook in water!

I suggest just "print it out" at one point the broken area will be out if the nozzle and everything is in one piece again. Then you can make cold pulls and it all sticks together...

Hi! Really interesting thread! The 0.40 Matchless are also twin bore, so you can print cooler. without this core heating system, the nozzle is (always, unless you print very slowly, but THEN there is even more time for the moist to evaporate from the PVA.. I guess) -- trying to print out the "middle" of the filament.. which can not be at edge temperature.. So you have to examplewise print at 220 to get the middle up to 200. or what do I know. The Matchless will heat the core while you are printing, and you guys can find out of you can print at 5-10-or 20 degrees lower temperature... it has some other advantages, and theoretically at least the hangup that plastic at 200 not sticks so well to itself.. bonding issue?

@avogra, I think you are quite right. I am not sure about the 1/3d less though. The PFA has a hardere surface so "takes" more meters! Im working on finding a PTFE tube with the help from Bondtech, (one of the greates companies out there, in my subjective opinion!). He has tipped me off to a european supplier with an increadibly good PTFE tube, both material and size-wise.! It is not transparent, unfortunatelly.

1/4 turn = 0.1875 mm, ( only) : try even 1/2 turn extra.. More turns= higher pressure= less leaks= less life of Teflon. With the Bondtech feeder (now increasingly popular, and I have visited the guy in Sweden, and take it from me, he has quite a set-up! Top engineering!),- with it you have even more pressure. There are reports of Bowdens popping out (something has to give when you increase speed), teflons leaking, nozzles leaking..

I think you should try meanwhile! Just get rid of the shiny alloy. then you will have two, haha! Good for the upcoming Dual by @foensturm, and others..

This is the disadvantage of using the spacer which is now stock, instead of the spring which was the tradition. It is the part pressing the teflon down. If the steel coupler surrounding the teflon is not adjusted to make the pressure , then you get this leak. Before UM2+, in the time of UM2, this was a more uncommon problem, since the spring would always make at least SOME pressure. The advantage of the spacer, "korneel spacer, several variants", is that with a correctly adjusted steel coupler you can have greater pressure than with the spring, and have even less risk of leak! What do you think @Dim3nsioneer?

You have meanwhile been shipped a new one! Dont take of 0.15, it is way too much, but will not hurt, since you can adjust the steel coupler!

If you put (surprisingly coarse, 200-400) paper on the table and then grind the end where the filament enters into it, you will remove the top layers and soon see the brass beneath, The pores and ridges, tiny grooves are super "bite" for the UM teflon!

Yes @Dim3nsioneer. and this can happen when the steel coupler is not turned far down = lifts the block inside = makes teflon press harder.. Or maybe you dont have the spring to press the teflon down but the little tube instead? In that case very important to wind the steel coupler so that there is high pressure. I think UM will send you a replacement part, you also need the steel coupler. The teflon is strong and sure like new still..

surface should be more rough! read my mail please and try it!

I had trouble using the MATCHLESS BLOCK with I2K, since they have two hard surfaces against each other. My reco is not us I2k, unless you have the V3 with a "rubbed" surface ring around the filament entry hole. Sorry, I guess this is the sort of trouble which first movers must experience... hehe.. Now; extra pressure on the Teflon stops any leaks, but CAN shorten the life of the TEFLON.. I guess... Im using the Bondtech feeder, and with the fenomenal extra pressure it will leak between teflon and Block without extra pressure from top. To be totally safe, stay with the UM2+ "Olsson Block" which is not known to leak in this place.

IMPORTANT APPLICATION NOTE: V3 BLOCK from 3D Solex may leak! Unfortunately, Some custiomers have received a V3 Block, where the top around the filament entry hole (where the steel couplers is entered), is shiny and "chromey". In this case there is an increased chance of leak between the Teflon and the Block V3, unfortunately. If you have this version, please contact 3D Solex to have a replacement shipped asap.

You only need to replace the temp sensor if you cannot get the old one out in one piece. there is sometimes a bonding between the cartridge og the tempe sensor and the olsson block, or if there has been a plastic leak (before) where the plastic has entered the block and has glued itself to the temp sensor. If you have an UM2, the heater is rated at 25W. Sometimes they have less. You can OHM it with an ohm-meter. Should read 25 ohm or less. more than 25 ohm = less than 25 watt. The heaters are very good quality and rarly need replacement. The 25 W heater will give you trouble of you print at high temperature (220-225+) and suddenly the fans come full on. The Temp sensors from UM are also good quality, but by the nature of their construction they are more fragile; tiny little leads and a microscopic platinum sensor inside make them more easy to break, unfortunately. It can be useful to tell cura to put the fans on gradually and early. check in expert settings. A higher wattage heater, like the one standard in UM2+ will be able to withstand a sudden fan increase better or every time. The Um2+ upgrade kit from UM has the 35W heater and will annule any fan-suddenly-on problems. The Heater is allmost always easy to remove from an old block to put into a new one, because it sticks out a bit and can be grabbed by an instrument to be pulled out.

No .. I dont use 1.75. The other guys here are much better at answering 1.75 Questions here.

@Lepaul : If you are in a hurry, you can use the 1.75 0.40 RACE instead of a 3mm one.

Hey Paolo! It is the 5mm shaft! About the bowden for 1.75mm filament, I feel that ot works better with a slightly bigger ID for the Tube than usual. As @gr5 says; runs with the 3mm bowden without problems. Certainly, it can take the squished filament. I just wonder why is it so squished? has it been driven by a direct drive and such hot knurled drive? In any case, a larger bowden may not work well with flexible filament and also has other drawbacks, but certainly will eat the flat 1.75 filament

Shurik, Privet! Test elektrikal resistance (ohm) between the leads to the heat bed. You can do that by loosening only one of them from the CPU board. However, there is a 90% chance you only need to tighten the screws holding the cables from the bed to the CPU board. Use a small screw driver and tighten the crews..

Hi! Nozzle marking: Usually, traditionally, empirically, the 0.25s have no dot. 0.40 : 1 dot 0.60 : 2 dots 0.80 : 3 dots 1.0. : 4 dots 1.5. : 5 dots 2.0. : 6 dots 0.50 : no dot.

"grinding" sound is most probably because you have a minimum layer time setting. This means that it will slow down to not arrive at the same place again before the minimum time is set! The "grinding" comes from moving the print head very slowly.

I want all of you in France especially, and in all other countries generally, to know how sorry also I am and the population in Norway about the horrible happenings on the Promenade des Anglais. You have a fantastic country, are a fantastic people! Deep kondolances from Norway.

Hey @SandervG, @catohagen! Yes, they fit. It is right they do not fit perfectly since they make not "head" contact with the heater block, but this is almost fully compensated by the longer threading! It will extend from block less , so you need to align the bed a little higher up. Make sure, like with ordinary nozzles, that there is a full and firm contact between the nozzle and the brass-rod/screw, else you will have a leak! Will be interesting to see your results!

Actually I think E3D (excellent company!) established the dotting practice, or at least made it common practice..right?

Bowden not actually inserted into teflon, so filament hits the top inner side of teflon and refuses to go in? At 3D Solex they have a teflon which has a bigger entry-chamfer so the bowden more easily clicks into place...

one thing is for certain.. the outside has an increadibly hard surface