ultiarjan
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Everything posted by ultiarjan
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first the obvious, does it 'hit' the switch bay in the right location? if thats off you can calibrate it again from the menu. Before you try let it home properly. I can think of all kinds of reasons for this to happen, like maybe a loose pulley?
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just because I'm curious, I wasted 18$ on the hot end metal parts from reprap.aliexpress. I wanted to have a look at the quality of this stuff. Well in short, I was more disappointed than I expected. I would think these are relative simple parts, less critical vs for example an olsson block. But as you see in the picture the parts do not line up nicely. Also the threads in the middle part are not deep enough to use the normal Ultimaker screw length. Sure you'll be able to get it to work, but if you have most of the parts already and want to go the DIY route I would advice to get real Ultimaker metal parts.
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I think the only additional thing to do is setting different esteps for both extruders in the firmware menu: Advanced->Preferences->Motion settings->Axis steps/mm If you keep the old (black) UM2 feeder as 2th feeder, you also need to change the rotation direction for this feeder, it's in the same menu.
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here in the Netherlands, but probably everywhere, you have these cheap "euro stores" where they sell drugstore stuff, I picked up these big bags there for around a euro. you can also get it at DIY shops, camping shops etc, but more expensive.
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the Ultimaker PVA is very nice, but super expensive.... I've made a few prints with Makerpoint M-PVA, also works fine, but you notice it's a bit more sticky. KEEP IT DRY, I even keep it dry when printing... https://www.youmagine.com/designs/drybox-for-pva-ultimaker3 for settings just have a look at the UM3 settings i think? to be honest I have not tried pva on the mark2 .... but @foehnsturm did..
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I can see there are better options possible, but I like the simplicity of the clips.... but you mainly make me wonder what you consider the worst Ultimaker feature?
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here's the partnumbers, add them when you mail a reseller: table clip back (2x) : 1256 table clip front left : 1987 table clip front right : 1988
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Get 20% OFF your next order Code: #TPUFLEX6 https://extrudr.eu/collections/tpu If you're buying the high temp PLA..... they now also have 3 types of flex. The medium seems best for a bowden type machine. And about FormFutura, I may be wrong but I think they are a trading company, branding stuff, but not a filament producer...
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Indeed, it works, in Cura pay attention you also need to change the extruder# for priming/brim/support And quality wise, you'll always get the highest quality on the main head, simply because you're printing with a head with less weight.
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Just checking.... "or my UM2+ to arrive" I hope you don't mean you're waiting on a NEW um2+ to arrive? Did you read the latest Ultimaker 2's are MISSING THE 5th DRIVER so you can not control the 2th extruder? It's mentioned on the site and in the BOM, but just thought I notice it again to be clear. ultimaker can not give an exact moment they changed the electronics, but roughly on machines from end 2016 - 2017 you should check if you still have the 5th driver on the main board.
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Are you sure during bed leveling (setting height of nozzle1) nozzle 1 was selected? I think I once had a leveling issue and found out, even though I did not have the 2th head on physically according to the printer it was still there....
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Charity would be my first choice. Didn't you have connections to something good in Vietnam?
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Rudy, here's 2 options to gain the extra mm's. Please share with us if you have any issues with it; https://www.youmagine.com/designs/5mm-lower-head-for-the-mark2-dual-extrusion-for-ultimaker2-system edit: and should you need anything else than 5mm you can easily print the spacer in any height by adjusting the height in your slicer.
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Still collecting all the parts but feel like getting a taste already? here's something to play with without the electronics https://www.youmagine.com/designs/pen-mount-for-the-mark2-dual-extrusion-system
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I'm pretty sure the move from home to pickup of 2th head is the first T1 in the startup code, and thus the speed is in the firmware. @tinkergnome how can he reduce it? It seems you do the Z calibration correct..... the Z adjust for the 2th head tells you to move the bed till it touches the bed.... did you use the card again?
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looks like the git files are old, I'll leave updating to @foehnsturm but here's my latest files. They work fine for me. The start up / priming volume may be tweaked a bit (a bit less), but it's almost ok it think. Let me know any comments on it. https://www.dropbox.com/s/1cfy7x56p4e38a6/cura-resources21apr2017.zip?dl=0
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Correct, I send you the link to my latest files... with the "Mark2 for Ultimaker2 naming..... did you try them?
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ok, I'm not sure, so @tinkergnome please pitch in if you read this. some settings on the printer don't always update correctly, might need a factory reset before the firmware upgrade. I think the prime position is related to the start position of the wiper (even though you don't use it). You may try to change this position a bit further away from the front (increase Y) and try again.
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You mean your 2th hotend has the old fixed UM2 block and not the olsson block? I see a few options; - change to an olsson block on the 2th also - adjust the plastic part of the head the be a few mm lower Do you know how to do CAD, the .stp files are on github. Let me know if I need to do it for you if you want option2, I can do it in the weekend, if needed tell me how many MM you need it to be lower, take a bit of a margin so it will most likely also work for other users...
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I looked to see if there was an issue reported already and found this old one that may be helpfull; https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/issues/1082 maybe @bagel-orb @nallath have an idea ... looks like the old issue is still open
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https://github.com/foehnsturm/Mark2 The easiest way to download from github is just to grab the ZIP file download and you get all files, printfiles, firmware, BOM, etc...
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The one with TINKER in the name is like the tinker firmware you may already know, it provides much more information in the display compared to regular Ultimaker firmware. The other is the regular Ultimaker firmware, with the Mark2 functionality added. My advice, get the TINKER.
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So getting a china 75,- UM2 board is probably the easiest option? though you would also need a new power supply. It would save you 2x a pt100 board which would be needed to use the old UMO board. Does the UM2 firmware run ok on the UMO controler (display wise)?
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https://ultimaker.com/en/blog/33422-get-started-with-cura-a-quick-guide https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/20414-quality De opties die je noemt bepalen de hoeveelheid "infill" m.a.w hoe massief het model wordt geprint. Als je cura schakelt naar advance mode kun je ook een % instellen. Solid is 100% massief, wat vrijwel nooit nodig is. Een andere setting die veel invloed heeft op de snelheid is de laaghoogte. Wanneer je een model hebt met rechtopstaande wanden zul je nauwelijks verschil zien tussen b.v. een laaghoogte van 0.1 of 0.2 mm tewijl het erg veel sneller gaat. Heb je een meer organisch model dan zul je de laagopbouw van je print veel duidelijker zien bij 0.2 vs 0.1. Het is min of meer een kwestie van oefenen.... probeer eens wat settings, probeer eerst wat kleine modellen om gevoel te krijgen bij de verschillen.
