ultiarjan

First, I think it's certainly doable. Lets start with firmware/electronics. @tinkergnome how difficult will it be to run it on the UMO board, assuming the rest of the machine is setup like the UM2, with same endstop positions,sliderblocks, UM2 hotend etc...? Regarding hardware I think converting to the UM2 hotend is the most reliable way to go, @neotko can you share the link to the conversion you did?

You can get it for sure at any ultimaker reseller. For now just try superglue and then print a replacement part. All 3d models of parts are in ultimakers guthub pages.

To keep the part under I use a hook made out of a paperclip, a piece of string, and some old metal parts for weight ..... you can picture it I guess. adding some heat does help, to do it in a controlled way I use this thing, but obviously not as cheap as a simple pump. https://anovaculinary.com/

No expert at all, but was more thinking of connectors like this, made to plug and unplug a lot, which is not the case for PCB type connectors. https://hobbyking.com/en_us/xt30-power-connectors-for-30a-continuous-applications-5-pairs.html?___store=en_us I once had a setup myself with screw terminal blocks at the back of the printer, but that's not the nicest solution.

Tom, that's interesting, can you share the Ultimaker part number of the stiff spring? so people know what to order at the reseller if they want to replace it. I think replacing it is interesting, i always find the weak spring annoying when spreading out glue, or removing a print. Is it the same (part number) as the Ultimaker2 springs? I guess it's this one (UM2 part)? https://www.makerpoint.nl/nl/ultimaker-spring-d2000-1311.html

It would help if you show a picture.... and then describe what you already tried to solve it.

The newest "plus" feeder is geared, thats why it's roting in the wrong direction if you use the incorrect firmware; If you have this white feeder, you have an Ultimaker 2 (ext) PLUS, so you need the plus firmware; If you have the old black feeder, like below, you need the Ultimaker (ext) firmware WITHOUT the plus in the name;

Standard PLA profile of the UM3, final temp is 15C lower than the printing temp, MUCH more than the 5C you mention. I understand that this setup is nice for printing trinkets, but I'm worried about the effect on the mechanical strength of parts. I also notice the predictability of dimensions on the UM3 is lower vs the UM2. Did Ultimaker do any testing on the effect of temperature swings on the mechanical properties? It might be a good idea to have specific profiles for "looks" and for "engineering" Finally, IMHO there are still many situations where a prime tower is really needed, for example I printed flex-pla in combination with pla today, the flex needs a higher temp, and therefore a prime tower is really needed. Unfortunately the flex-pla combi has the same issue as the PVA-PLA combi, the adhesion is poor. So an extra tower design where material is printed only on it's own, is still one of my main wishes for cura....

Indeed the 3dsolex harcore+everlasting nozzle is the only option commercially available at this moment to print abrasive materials on the Ultimaker3. I have not tried the everlasting nozzle yet myself. you can indeed print small letters with a smaller nozzle, besides the nozzle size, also the shoulder width plays a big roll in printing small. The 0.1 is pretty extreme, you may want to try the 0.25 first. Regarding printing small, user @neotko is the expert .... he may have some tips...

The idea of a modular head is nice I think, here's a few old ones.... https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ulitimaker-orig-modular-printhead-merlin-ubis https://www.youmagine.com/designs/modular-printhead-for-ultimaker2-v2-2 If you need to mount a different head to an ultimaker2, also keep an eye on the Mark2 dual extrusion system, you can couple basically anything to it with magnets... For connectors I would have a look at stuff used for remote controlled cars etc... think the connectors they use for batteries could be good.

not possible at this moment, but it seems to be high on the developers list; https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/issues/1292

Yeah, think you are right. I only see the Ultimaker material profiles as a rough indication. Specially since I also don't like most of the speed settings in the general profiles, one has to make his own I guess...

The Ultimaker Brand PLA profile's are not even actual profiles..... they are all the same except for the colorname.... there basically an option in Cura that gives the opportunity to make specific profiles someday... but atm they are not... Maybe it's an interesting idea to somehow make it a community thing to create profiles for different materials. Big question is how do you organize such a thing...

Yep, you can set up a VPN connection to your network, the quickest way is if your router has this functionality. I'm using a "fritzbox" router and it only took me a few minutes, read your routers manual. If you don't have a router that supports it you can also setup a VPN using a raspberry-pi, here's a manual; https://ultimaker.com/en/community/39542-um3-remote-monitoring-raspberry-pi-vpn-tutorial

All information will be available in a new thread somewhere next week .....

So the competition is not open for us with UM3's then? hint..... the Mark2 can do things the (standard) UM3 can not.. like changing nozzles... so you may want to use this.....

And if you do want to eliminate the bowden..... look at this.... https://ultimaker.com/en/community/35608-zero-gravity-direct-drive-extruder

Are you still using the old Ultimaker2 feeder? the black one? In that case I would definitely upgrade. You could get the UM2+ upgrade, but rather expensive as you already have upgraded to the Olson block (removable nozzles) if I understand you correctly, so ytou don't need most parts. I guess the most logical upgrade in this case is a bondtech. http://shop.bondtech.se/ec/extruders/bondtech-qr-30-universal.html You could also get a Ultimaker2+ feeder, as an alternative, but Ultimaker has been making it overly complicated to buy these, though some re-sellers have them. There's not much you can do with the bowden length, you need to cover the whole printarea, but I did mount my bondtech a bit higher than the original feeder location, but I mainly did that to improve the entrance angle of the filament.

And changing a nozzle on the v6 is much less convient compared to the olsson block. Unless you have a very specific need as in high temperatures I would stay away from the all metal hotends.

the standard Ultimaker2 length is ok.

Ah ok, so not a printing issue but I guess a hardware issue. Really not an expert here but my guess maybe some communication issue between the main board and the olimex controller board? Did it print ok before? Beside getting in contact with your re-seller to solve the issue for you, you could have a look if all cables and connectors are properly seated. If you decide to have a look yourself be careful with the Olimex board and static electricity....

So how is it failing? A picture of the failed print, materials and settings used would be a good start.

I'm working on it. Almost ready. Will be ready early next month when all files get released.

All is setup for 2.85, but I see no reason why the 2th extruder can't be a 1.75 conversion. The firmware supports e-steps per feeder, rotation direction per feeder, Cura supports different line widths per head.... should be ok. Think you'll be the first if you go this route. How do you want to do it? a 1.75 bondtech ?

1> there will indeed be no official Ultimaker upgrade. 2> There are a few more prototypes out there, The watercooled setup of @crema https://ultimaker.com/en/community/17656-ultimaker-2-dual-extruder-einstellen nozzle lift with a switching mechanism; http://www.khwelling.nl/3d.um2s.php But indeed the @foehnsturm tool changer is probably the easiest way to go if you want to upgrade a ultimaker2 to dual extrusion. It's beta tested by about 10 people (rough guess) and the needed firmware is available thanks to @tinkergnome. Release is expected next month, but it will still be mostly DIY, it's not plug and play but it's also not too complicated. Comparable I guess with the skill level needed to install the UM2+ upgrade kit. 3> Not really, the firmware for the tool changer has it all covered. 4> In general I'd stay away from any kit that does not offer either a lifting system or separate heads, to move the nozzle not in use out of the way.