ultiarjan

and here's the Cura2.6 version, clearly leaning, same machine. I'm too tired now to compare the gcodes, but here they are if someone @tinkergnome wants to have a look. I could not load the 2.6 project file in 2.5 so not all settings used are the same..... https://www.dropbox.com/s/s5aj9vswv5jemgp/C25-C26-leaning.zip?dl=0

@tinkergnome just did the print, code generated in Cura 2.5, I don't see any leaning. Also measured v.s. the left panel, no leaning. Will do the test based on the 2.6 profile now.

@tinkergnome I need to do more testing on the issue I have with the Zheights. I suspect it has something to do with the setting of Zheight for nozzle 1 and 2, and the set Zoffset. As I can't use the bed level wizzard (Mark2 firmware on a GO size machine) I set the height with the Zheight function in firmware. I notice that both setting the Zheight of nozzle 1 and nozzle 2 change the Zoffset. Is this intended behaviour? I would expect only setting the Zheight of the 2th nozzle to change the Zoffest value.

and moving some more info from the beta section to the open forum section @ultiarjan The code is in firmware, but you can override it by loading alternative code from the SD card, the SD card needs to contain a folder called "config" and needs to contains two files called T0 and T1 that contain the gcode. - make the files with f.e. notepad++ - make sure the files have NO extension (so no .txt...) here's a sample I use on my GO3- , just simple moves. G0 X112 Y88 F6000 G0 X116 Y91 F4000 G0 X114 Y104 F4000 G0 X110 Y110 F4000 The files only load when the SD is present when you turn on the machine, so it will not get overwritten in the firmware and you have to load it each time. I'm still figuring out myself how to make permanent changes..... but need to fin the time.. Oh and FYI, -after every T0/T1 the firmware will move the head back to the defined wipe position. - a T0/T1 will cause the bed to move down 2mm (z hop) and for T1 the aditional Z-offset. - at the end of a T1/T0, during the first regular XY moves the 2mm Z-hop will be corrected again. Quote by conny_g So it might be worth a try to execute a M218 T0 X0 Y0 to make sure that extruder 1 has 0/0. Or one could try a M218 T0 X0.0125 Y-0.0125 as a correction factor. Interesting. I'm having issues with incorrect Z height on my dual GO with the Mark2 firmware. Will need to look into this.... Can you point out where in the firmware I can find these extruder offsets? Quote by ultiarjan Interesting. I'm having issues with incorrect Z height on my dual GO with the Mark2 firmware. @tinkergnome The firmware tool-change z-hop is in Marlin_main.cpp, starting here. Since we don't use the wiper it should be always 2.0mm - plus the extruder z-offset. There may be an additional z-hop from the slicer (e.g. if "z-hop during toolchange" is activated in Cura). If I remember right, it's essential that there is a move command (after every T0/T1) that includes the "real wanted" z-position (a.k.a. the current layer pos). This should be always done by the slicer, but who knows? Does the nozzle stay too high after the tool change? If in doubt... can you show some snippets from the generated gcode file? Quote by conny_g Now the question is if it's a mechanical issue or a software issue. I think it's a software issue, it's too steady for mechanical and even the 2nd head was not present at all. @tinkergnome Melka: you said your project file is Cura 2.6 - can you reproduce the issue with an older (non-beta) version? Or has anyone tried to reproduce it on his printer with this project file? Just to rule out one thing or another...

First the Z thing, It was on my list to report to @tinkergnome, but I had not done it yet. It appears that the FIRST TIME ONLY directly after you turn on the printer, when you run a Mark2 Gcode the printer thinks the bed is at 0 in stead of 150 (in my case nomally 220 or something like that) and thats causing the issue. If you first do something else on the machine, like manually change extruder head f.e. it does not occur and the printer start with a correct Z height. Auto PID, I've not tried fro firmware, but easy to do when connecting printer via USB to pronterface or Simplify 3D (I use S3D for this) Just google, there are examples in this forum on how to do it.

I general if you invest in an upgrade you need to think about the problem you want to solve. In the old case of the Ultimaker2 it was very clear the feeder was a weak point, and the bondtech was/is a very good solution for that. With the Ultimaker3 the feeders are IMHO not the weakest link of the extruder driver train anymore. The head, with its weight and weight distribution is clearly the limiting factor. When I see "be able to print much faster with sustained quality" on the bondtech site I'm pretty sure thats not the case for the UM3. Besides this I have no idea what Tom means with his statement on Cura profiles not being optimal anymore. I don't see any issue there. In short, would I spend the 400,- ? nah... putting a Ferrari engine into a Fiat500 will not make it a Ferrari.

Send a pm to @syntaxterror

never thought I would use that old feeder again.... would not advice anyone to go back to a non-geared feeder, but just needed a quick temporary solution to get the Mark2 alive again.

so @tomnagel any news on an ultimaker ruby CORE? otherwise you better be carefull with the "special material" ... (unless you use a hardcore ofc..)

I had a look at mine, the lens is of the screw on type, so I assume if it's not screwed in enough or too much it will be out of focus. I can't adjust mine, so it may have a bit of glue in it, not sure but I don't want to put much force on it... I'm sure fbrc8 will help, if they send you a new unit it's super easy to replace, just a few screws and one connector. You may want to check if you can adjust yours....

https://fbrc8.com/collections/ultimaker-2-spare-parts/products/power-adapter-24v-220w it appears fbrc8 is out of stock atm.... just try any Ultimaker re-seller. the power brick for the UM2 is the same. or if you want to get it somewhere else, it's a MEAN WELL GS220A24-R7B just checked, plenty on amazon...

Are you sure? I think it's sls printed in nylon. The original plastic part from ultimaker is peek, so for sure has a higher temperature resistance. That does not mean nylon has to be an issue.... but I don't think ultimaker is using the much more expensive peek for no reason.....

To be complete, the core has 5 metal contacts at the back, if you measure you measure the two most left or the 2 most right (I forgot which is which..). One pair is the heater, with a resistance as Tom mentioned, the other pair is the PT100, the temp sensor, with a resistance around 108 ohm (at +/- 20 degrees C) .

Sure it's m3. But why do you want to screw a door to it when something simple like this closes perfectly.... https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-minimalist-front-panel If you do want to screw be carefully not to overtighten the screws....

I think I'll wait for a while and let you do the hard work

I consider them pretty equal.. but I don't like the plaTec being shipped on clumsy carton spools.... to be complete here's the other link... http://two-bears.eu//index.php?k=44

https://fbrc8.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/207813353-Replacing-Parts-on-the-X-Y-Axis I like the support pages of the US ultimaker partner, this is UM2, but basically the same...

you don't share what printer you use, but if you would use an Ultimaker2, you could have a look at the Mark2 firmware and have the firmware handle the Z-offset for you. https://magnetic-tool-changer.com/

You can print ABS at temps lower than 260, but I suspect the UMO hotend does not like higher temps, but I've no personal experience with it... If you would want to primarily use ABS you could mount an E3Dv6 hotend. But why bother. I would advice to use pla-tec if you need better temp resistance. https://www.3djake.com/extrudr/green-tec-white

First... do you have any experience in these things? you machine is under warranty so I guess you could have your re-seller do it for you, they must have done a few more by now... Personally I would prefer doing it myself as I think the transportation risk if you have to send in the printer is a higher risk.... in this case ask you re-seller for an instruction if I'm not mistaken there should be one.

A one page input is indeed much better, but you missed addressing the main point. People will not put time and effort in sharing there data when they have hardly a clue what the receiving party will do with it. If people want to make the effort, and most wont, they are far more likely to do it on an excising platform like filaments directory as @amedee already pointed out.

I had a quick look at the survey. Do you really expect people to do the survey for every printer/material/layer-height etc etc combination? I don't think a lot of people will spend there time on it in this format. I would at least like a more tabular input option and the ability to enter more combinations at once. Also it would be good IMHO to provide people with one clear page containing ALL required info in one view iso the multipage setup. Further i feel it would help elaborating a bit more on what you will do with the data, when you ask people to collaborate. Will the gathered data be open available for everyone? will you use it commercially?

the link does not work ..... and a question, how do you filter on quality? you try to find common denominators between entries? need a minimum number of entries per machine material combination? or just accept every entry? Can you explain a bit more on how this is intended to work?

Can you share a picture? it usually helps. Normally the magnets touch the 2 front long screws to hold on to... is there something stopping the lid to close completely? Is the "silicone nozzle cover" properly seated? are the little metal "wings" on the bottom metal plate not bend (check if left and right look the same).

210 is already a bit high ifyou usenormal layer height. For underextrusion; 1. Check/replace the Teflon coupler. The white plastic thingy in the printhead. 2. If you still have the old black um2 feeder replace it. Get a Bondtech or the um2+ feeder.