ultiarjan

A .stp of the whole head please

I like the 2th movie, though a bit long... 1st movie is pretty annoying IMHO, it's like 80% commercials? And about auto leveling.... "the glass plate autolevels" it actually does not, the printer detects where the glass is not level and compensates for that in the first x layers of the print, that's why you will hear the z-axis do the compensating in the beginning of the print. It's still a good idea to start with a manual level and make sure the glass is also physically leveled pretty good to begin with, so there's less need for compensation.

See a few post up in this thread.... you need to change a few lines in the .json file.... the printer definition file.

Lol. I would definatly advice to upgrade your um2 to dual extrusion..... just not with two fixed nozzles.....

The outside support is set with the"horizontal expansion" function. Ultimaker uses these default settings with a huge amount of PVA because PVA does not stick to wel to PLA. This way there's a higher change of PVA on PVA connections, and less change of a failed print....

@sandervG wil Ultimaker publish the details after 6 months as usual? I've heard some rumors the waiting period will be extended for the UM3 ?

ah, to late, indeed 2.5.1 = Beta2, just some miscommunication

Well changing e-steps is clear. People might want to change to a bontech. But indeed there's no need to calibrate for that aspecial the step differences are clear. Allowing a step change simply by gcode for the um3 would be good.

The head will not stick out using the default prime positions. But it can when you use the maximum possible build volume. and here's how to change the prime position; https://ultimaker.com/en/community/39606-change-prime-position-to-increase-build-space-ultimaker3

here you go .... http://software.ultimaker.com/Cura_open_beta/

not the cheapest option.... but very nice... and I guess if you have the old board you also need a PT100 amplifier board from E3D-online. https://ultimaker.com/en/community/21167-assembly-manual-um2-upgrade-kit-on-ultimaker-original-plus if you want to spend the time you can obviously source most needed parts elsewhere, like pt100, heater, block etc form 3dsolex.com, the aluminium parts in the head can be bought as spare-parts from an UM re-seller, or elsewhere online. I would advice against getting things like ptfe and olssonblock from a cheap china site....

lol.... that is a super invention... love it !!

solved! Just disable retraction / retraction at layer change, and the spiralize is perfect. Ideally selecting spiralize would automatically disable retraction, as I can't image any scenario where you would want it on...

I would say impossible. Layer height changes during the print have to happen in the Curaengine. But as far as I know flexible layer height is not the point on the Cura todo list with the least priority... I was thinking slice 2x, and combine parts of both.....

I got this for the first time yesterday.... maybe related? the prints was small, like about 50x50x50 mm UM3 cura2.5beta1 latest stable firmeware

@smartavionics also spiralize on single extrusion has an issue. It does a retract I think, judging by the sound (listen to the video) once every layer, causing a z-seam. I think the last cura that had a real good spiralize was 14.xx .....

I also have the issue with the USB stick not being recognized. FYI, when it happend I could also not connect to the printer over the (wired) network anymore, also could not reconnect with refresh, just had to reboot it.

https://ultimaker.com/en/community/40389-combine-spiralize-and-normal-printing nice use for the 0.8 hardcore...

Yes, you can print pretty vases real fast when spiralizing your print using Cura2.5 I used the 3dsolex hardcore 0.8 in this case. But did you know you can also combine spiralized and normal printed parts? It's pretty easy, in this case the bottom part of the print is spiralised, with the 0.8 Core, and the top part is normal printed with the 0.4 Core. The downside is that you still need to use the same layer height in cura for both parts, while I would have liked to use 0.4 on the spiralized part, and 0.1 on the normal part.... But I guess if we wait long enough someday Cura will get the option. @dim3nsioneer will it be hard to get it in tweakAtZ ? I used the 0.8/0.4 example in 2 colors here, but you can obviously also use this trick on a single extruder machine. *never mind the poor print quality, is just to show the idea...... ** and fyi, spiralize printing produces watertight results now in cura !!

The support on the side is adjustable by the "horizontal expansion" setting in CURA. Ultimaker set's it to use a lot of PVA by default because PLA is sticking pretty poorly to PVA. This way there will always be a PVA on top of PVA connection to keep stuff toghether. PVA printing is not very easy, if you just got into printing you may want to consider printing single extrusion first, get to learn a bit more, than print multi color, get to learn dual extrusion, and only than start using PVA .....

Does it make the "change move" and misses the docking thingy on the right panel? or is there a mechanical issue with the 2th core that it will not lift? If you're not sure just post a small video of what happens. when you move the lever on the right side of the head does the nozzle lift properly?

When your print is shifting most likely you have a loose pulley... have a look here; http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide#shifted I don't see any way to recover that print....

I general with dual extrusion flat is better; - less nozzle changes, so it saves time - a small and tall tower will more often fail than a shorter tower. but ofc sometimes you have too... but in this case I dont think so..... * one other note, I think you are using a crazy amount of support..... PVA is not very cheap.... and if that thing is some sort of closed bottle it will take ages if ever to dissolve the PVA....

You can also send a gcode file from the um3 mobile app.