ultiarjan

and you can also just buy the alu one from a Ultimaker re-seller (but I can see the appeal in making you're own...)

And to add, not only is the infill speed set too high imho in UM3 profiles, on top of that also the infill line width is set higher than the print line width, which is a double mistake imo as it not only increases the volume/s the machine needs to push out, it also provides a worse support structure for top layers. The main issue I have with all this is that it's all in settings that are hidden by default, so many users will have no clue... This type of default setting should only be in a "Super fast, forget quality" profile, not in a "normal".

if you want to be complete you'll have to include a whole lot more... just thinking out loud; - machine investment - maintenance, spare parts - man hours, preperation

lol ..... "SInce I like 3DLAC better" great sales pitch .

Wohooo the suspense ....

And you can also overrule cura. If you want to set a BB in cura and physically use a AA. Or you have a modified core that's read out by cura with a different size, you can just ignore the warnings and use the settings you want. Also handy if you need to set a o.8 BB to give you all options for your AA 0.8 when you don't have a 0.8 BB

And about the printhead moving to the center of the bed before moving to the prime tower. did anyone find a solution for this? It's indeed annoying...

Actually if you want to experiment you can already change the tool change code by reading them in from a SD card (details earlier described here somewhere). But it would be very nice, also for other developments (ZGE) to be able to set the code without the need to load it from SD at every printer poweron. But I believe according to @tinkergnome this is not so easy (what was it? memory availability?)

OMG this guy is a doctor? looking at his cold pull technique I sure hope he's not a surgeon...

Just don't waste any time or money on any system that does not deal with getting the unused nozzle out of the way. Either with separate heads or a lifting system, whatever nice videos you may have seen...... Besides the mark2 there's a guy on this forum who build 2 nozzles in a um2 head with lifting and water-cooling. And I recently build a um3 head in a 'go' but for this you may have trouble getting the parts. I'd say time and money wise the mark2 is your best option. Have a look a the BOM if you want to go for the most low budget option.

Briljant also musical . Go to bed man!!

Its all possible.... But the greentec works for me.... No deformations.

No... But it gives 5cm extra printheight.... And I could use a normal um2 z motor that I already had.....

Short answer. Don't waste your time on it. It does not work. Check this for a working solution: https://magnetic-tool-changer.com Long answer; Please Google. It has been discussed here numerous times.

The latest version of cura should do a very good spiralize without z scar. You must have a setting that's causing it. Can't check the default profiles as I'm not near a PC.... But maybe something like z-hop ? Just open all the settings and search for it. It would be better if selecting spiralize would auto disable these settings that cause the z scar...

I adjusted the files for cnc-ing and added 5 cm in z. Can share if you want but only in a few weeks as I'm on holiday atm. You do realize that you can build a full size um2 for about the same cost?

2. Yes you can turn off the PC. The print job is stored in the printers memory. 1. I don't know...

Did not actually check it but I think you can simply set a .8 core as second core in cura and ignore/overrule the warning message that it's not the same as in the printer. edit: to add, I mean put a 0.4 as 2th core in the printer, don't leave it empty

For me it created 3x the same printer upon installation already...

Well if it works after you put in a different core, I guess it's an issue with the core and not the printer. I don't know what the printer diagnostics tool checks (only pt100?) but if you have a multi-meter you can quickly check the temp sensor (pt100) and the heater. results should be as below, the pt100 reads 108ohm at room temp, so it may be like 110 now it's summer.... edit: checked a few more core's, had a variance on the heater between 24,5 and 26,1 ohm

If you skip the waiting like this I guess you risk underextrusion and very weak prints. Maybe using a primetower helps to avoid waiting time on top of the print? But better is to set a specific location in the toolchange gcode....

https://fbrc8.com/collections/ultimaker-original-spare-parts

In general you can just take a profile for a comparable material. For many materials (like f.e. PLA) this will be a good starting point. For ABS usually the Ultimaker profile is not the best, as most other ABS brands need higher temperatures.

I have no layer bonding issues with green-tec. do print a bit hotter. like 210/215 with 0.15 layers and 40 mm/s