ultiarjan

The g-code is the same, it's just the position where it's placed..... there is no specific "first layer temp" code afaik

I'm not sure where it is defined. Did not check. But I think the positions should be an option in cura. Atm the position is unnecessary eating up space as it could be more to the front. And sometimes you would like it somewhere else altogether depending on the model you want to print.

You need to buy the whole thing but the're not very expensive. You can get it at many places. UM resellers, 3dsolex, e3donline,... they all sell them. Edit. Lol just looked at the picture again and it's only the connector you damaged right? This you could replace. Certainly if you need a quick fix.

Interesting these material pages.... sure the temperatures are stated to be for UM2, but compared to the UM3 Cura profiles the difference is pretty big. for 0.4 nozzle; ABS: materials page 250, cura 230 CPE: materials page 250, cura 240 PLA: materials page 210, cura 200 Besides this am I blind or do I not see any info on the print speed and layer height? which is crucial, I assume it's meant for "standard" cura speed and 0.1 ???? The funny thing is that the temp advice on ABS, on the materials page corresponds much more with non-ultimaker ABS than with Ultimaker ABS and on topic, I'm curious what the new warranty text will be...

Nice! is this anywhere on a roadmap? Cura 2.6?

The calibration settings are stored based on the combination of cores. also the position in the printer matters. So if you calibrated AA1 and AA2 for example, and use them later swapped, you need to recalibrate. All combinations will be stored. In the AA+BB case, if you use bothe AA's (assuming you have 2) they both need to be calibrated. I use a separate set for PL:A and "other material" and just sore them so I always position them in the same order. Anyhow the printer warns you when you use a non-calibrated combination.

Ok So you use quality filament. The most relevant thing is that it needs to be 2.85 mm. If it's collorfab or um or makerpoint etc is irrelevant. Let's try to find your issue. I say it's either the feeder or the core or the bowden. You should have 2 AA cores. Use them both on the left and both on the right and tell us if it made a difference. Are the bowden's ok? No damage anywhere? You get check them by disconnecting them from the head and manually pushing fillament thru them to feel if the is any extra resistance. Another thing. If you do a cold pull what does the tip off the pla comming out look like? Did you try on both the AA cores and compare? Pictures could help here...

Just thinking, did you try if you can make/update a nozzle 1 only (or nozzle2 only) profile after you did this trick, so we have a quick solution until the bug gets fixed?

These's guy's have an extrusion machine, and I think they also have a still experimental setup to extrude filament. Have a look here; https://preciousplastic.com/en/videos/build/extrusion/ Maybe you should ask on there forums, as on the website I do see the extruder, but not the filament add-on.

Finally decided to put in the heated bed, printer is still going strong with the CORE head. http://3dsolex.com/product/um2go-heated-bed/

hmmm, actually they are, in the hardcore nozzle, just steel for now unfortunately, but it's there.... http://3dsolex.com I would love an original ultimaker/3dverkstan ruby core though.....

Anybody know what is the normal behavior of storing changed machine settings in cura2.4 ? When I make changes to the start-end code it gets stored, but not written back into the machine .json file in C:/program files etc.... So where does it get stored?

I just send you both a dropbox link, you'll obviously will need to change stuff, but I hope it will get you started.

LOL. I had to calculate that. That's 10 retracts per seconds average .... serious? You are an exceptional user I'm using 5 um+ feeders atm (on 3 printers) and never ever have any grinding issues... but I have to admit I'm not pushing any speed limits. Maybe a bontech (I have 1) has its benefits in a specific use case but for most users it's really unnecessary imho... and on normal use the driving teeth get polluted by fillament.

let's make life easier https://www.youmagine.com/designs/wedgebot-for-ultimaker2

I can dropbox you my cura files (.json + extruders) for the mark2, so you have a starting point that produces dual reprap g-code. I'll try to remember to do it tonight

Functionally not at all .... but at least it would be good to somehow give the user a hint as to why the settings button is missing... it took me a while to figure it out

While working on the setup of the mark2 machine (the magnetic tool changer) I noticed something confusing. When you are in cura's printer preferences, you can easily choose between the printers you have installed, but you ONLY see the machine settings button for the printer that is active in cura at that moment. Besides the confusion on the missing button, it's also making it a lot harder to lookup the settings in one machine, and copying to another machine. So I would like the settings to be just always available, but if for some reason this would be to complicated, it would already be an improvement to keep showing the button "greyed out" with a warning on hover, like "machine not active" fyi @nallath

I've been thinking about high temp printing myself (just thinking...) but it seems to me that if you really want to get to a serious chamber temperature you probably need; - water cooling (I don't have it) - direct drive XY motors, mounted outside of the box - better heated bed - maybe an extra heater in the chamber + chamber temp control. Probably all doable if you have the time to spend....

Why do you think you can't use it? It's possible to modify machine settings in the .json file. It's possible to set reprap gcode. Some of use also use cura 2.4 on the beta Mark2 project (the Ultimaker2 with magnetic head changer). Did you try?

You made me curious, what is it you changed to improve it ?

I understand what you're saying, but I do think there is an error in the UM3 settings, my comparison was in both cases with "GRID". The UM3 gets significantly less infill with the same settings, and 100% fill is not solid but 1 mm line width...

I just noticed the difference between infill settings of the Ultimaker3 and Ultimaker2. At 20% infill you get a 3.5mm line distance on the UM2, but a 5mm line distance on the UM3. At 100% infill you get a 0.35 mm line distance on the UM2, but a 1 mm line distance on the UM3. So it looks like on the UM3 you don't get the amount of infill you asked for I guess roughly calculating that a 5mm line width is less than 20% .... so it looks like the UM3 settings are wrong. All with 0.4 nozzle, 0.2 layer, 0.35 line width

lol, agree with you skirt preference..... but don't think the money vs intelligence assumption is correct

unfortunately it happens a lot that people assume being critical is being negative, don't let that hold you back....