ultiarjan

That I get. But it's not the issue. You would loose the ability to dual extrude combining a new core with a original ultimaker core. As you would not have enough height difference from the lifting mechanics.

I don't get how you mean this. How would a silicon pad solve the height difference between a "hardcore" and a "ultimaker core" ? About pricing, always a difficult discussion, but in this case the upgrade is about the price of a new core, so seems to me people who can afford to use a UM3 will have no issue with it. Ultimakers in general are pretty cheap to run.....

A few days ago I got a "HardCore" from 3Dsolex to try, here's a first look. While at first it does not seem logical to have exchangeable nozzles in an already exchangeable Core, it does mean as of now we have the option to use alternative sized Core's and a 0.5 in steel. The nozzles are NOT compatible with other blocs, they needed to be smaller to keep the Core the same height. The HardCore is compatible to use in combination with an original core. In the picture, left to right; Jet nozzle for UM2, hardcore nozzle, steel hardcore nozzle. Installing the DIY version on a core you already own is not the easiest job. There is a serious risk you break the heatbreak if you put any force in the wrong place. According to the 3Dsolex website they will help you when you mess up, for a small price. Changing nozzles is also a job that needs to be done carefully, you should ONLY hold the metal block so NO force is put on the heatbreak (the thin part just above the chrome block). Just as with assembling stuff from IKEA, I always advise to use better tools than those supplied As changing a nozzle is not as easy as f.e. on the Ultimaker2, for some people it may be best to choose a nozzle and leave it on. Obviously you can now replace it when it's worn out after using abrasive materials. At first I thought I would not like to change these nozzles frequently, but after I did it once it's actually pretty easy as long as you are very careful. Unfortunately there's no instruction on the amount of torque needed to fit the block or the nozzles, just like AFAIK also Ultimaker does not provide any numbers for the Olsson block on the UM2+. For the UM2+ Olsson block I always use 0.45Nm on a hot nozzle (230c). The hardcore nozzles can not be changed while mounted in the printer, not only is the block hard to reach, it would also be VERY risky as you're likely to put force on the heatbreak when the body of the core is in a fixed place. I prefer to only change nozzles on a heated block. I'll may make a small device to electrically heat the hardcore outside of the printer someday. It's easy to do, as I showed already in this experimental setup; using-the-ultimaker3-core-on-an-ultimaker2 For now I opted to just heat it quickly with a hot-air-gun. In a little test with an old um2 block, a pt100 and a ohm meter. I figured I'd need to heat for about 30 seconds to get to about 150c. This is obviously pretty unreliable but better than mounting a nozzle cold. I used a WERA7440 screwdriver at 1nm, as you probably don't have this tool you may want to try this printed tool, I have not tested the amount of torque it brings, but I do know it will depend on the material you use to print it. https://www.youmagine.com/designs/block-v3-torque-wrench Cura, The reason ultimaker is not selling any Core sizes other than the 0.4mm is said to be that they do not have Cura profiles ready for other sizes and materials. Rumor is the first alternative size Core Ultimaker will bring out is the 0.8mm but nothing has ever been confirmed AFAIK. This also means currently there is no nozzle size selection available in Cura for the UM3. This is pretty easy to solve by adjusting the "line width". As the default line width for 0.4 is (0.875 * Nozzle size) this is probably a good starting point. Just change the line width and save your settings as a profile, with the nozzle size in the profile name, and next time your ready. In my first print with the 0.6 nozzle I used a 0.55 line width. Here's a first print in 0.2 draft layer height, The hardcore prints just as easy as any other core. Finally; I did not jet mention any of the visual differences of the hardcore vs a Ultimaker core. After I had some leaks on a early test version of the "matchless" block for Ultimaker2 I was not very fond of the chromed blocks. 3Dsolex assures me this issue is solved, and as I've not heard others about it recently I assume it is, otherwise I would not put it in my pressious UM3 I'm not convinced the chroming really is a benefit, and I would not know how to test it. If chromed nozzles are more slippery that may be a benefit in f.e. printing PVA, but I have not tried that jet, and even then I have not had issues with printing PVA on the standard BB core. I may be nice to do a 0.6 or 0.8 quick print with PLA/PVA. will probably do that later. I don't think the chroming is useful to gain higher speeds, as the speed on the UM3 is restricted by the weight of the print head, not the core. Then there's the red anodized cool ribs, I don't think it matters functionally, but it looks good, and it makes the hardcore easy to identify. Two of the cooling ribs are "flattened" apparently to get a better grip on them while mounting. So in short, I'm very happy to have the option of using various nozzles on my Ultimaker3, my personal favorite is the 0.6 I don't do a lot of carbon or metal fill, but I'm sure many people will love the ability to use it on there dual extrusion machine without having to replace expensive core's regularly. Here's where you can get yours. 3dsolex.com the first prints with the 0.4 If you did not see it jet, here's some discussion on other changable core's not commercialy available, legal issues around selling parts vs open source, and you'll also find a great video from George here, showing the disassembly of a core. 3dprintingforum.us ____________ And just to be clear, I have no business relation with either 3Dsolex or Ultimaker. Just doing this stuff for fun. I got the hardcore for free to try it out.

And on top of that I think also the ability to get a solid bottom is broken ....

Lol no I'm definitely not a developer I made a misspelling in the file that defines the settings of the selected printer which caused that cura did not load any printer files at all.

I noticed 2.4 is very sensitive to errors in machine setup. I changed the startup code of a custom machine and made a typo. Had one space in the start code on the wrong place. When I started cura did not just ignore that machine but started like a new install with no machine at all.... After correction the custom machine .Json all was fine again

Depends on the machine, if you get a Ultimaker3 use the latest version of Cura. I never had anything against printing via SD card, but since I have the Ultimaker3 i can really appreciate printing directly from PC, over the network.

It's the printers polite way off telling you the autolevel failed. If the detection fails it will stop before crushing your glass bed (I hope). Check if your nozzle and bed are clean. Think too much glue on the bed can already have a effect. Personally I just turned of autoleveling, mostly because it saves time.

Yeah ! Thanks! Playing with infills to get the black of the background was fun. so how big is it? it's meant as wall decoration I guess?

I assume you mean 6mm thick looking cool!

https://www.youmagine.com/designs/low-friction-um2-spoolholder This one does fit with 1 Kg spools, I use it with the 1 Kg spools from Extrudr (green-tec)

The most easy solution is to get the spoolholder that used to come on the Ultimaker2, it's the same as on the 2+, just longer. Your re-seller can probably still get it for you, and it's cheap (5,- euro in the Netherlands The Ultimaker partnumber is 1158 (spoolholder long)

Sure it's risky to take a core apart, but if you're feeling brave at least watch this before you have a go at it.... http://www.3dprintingforum.us/viewtopic.php?f=57&p=7844#p7844

Pretty sure my son can do this for you, I'll ask him if he feels like it. If he does I'll PM you his e-mail adres.

I use this to fight humidity; https://www.youmagine.com/designs/drybox-for-pva-ultimaker3

so what did you change?

I did makerpoint pva-m today with biofilla platec. The adhesion was just as good (or bad) as with normal pla. So yes it works. I have extrudr green tec so will also try that with pva... but it will have to wait till later.

I've tried Makerpoint PVA-M today, on the Ultimaker3 (http://www.makerpoint.nl/nl/makerpoint-pva-m-500gr-natural.html) although I like the Ultimaker PVA, it's pretty expensive. Makerpoint PVA-M = 39,95 for 500gr Ultimaker PVA = 69,- for 500gr (sold per 350gr - 48,34) First thing you notice is the color, is a bit more yellow. According to the specs you should print it between 180 and 205 Celsius, I tested at 220 so a bit too hot Looking at the specs (and other filaments they sell) I suspect the material is the same as the "filamentum" PVA sold by Layers3D for a few euro's more (http://www.lay3rs.nl/), the spec-sheet here mentions never to print hotter than 225 I tried with both Ultimaker PLA, and biofilla PLA TEC, and both did stick to the PVA pretty well. I test this by breaking the wipe tower, and in both cases the tower was pretty strong. biofilla platec ultimaker PLA silver The PVA has a negative effect on surface quality, but that's with all PVA's . I should probably increase the XY distance of support. and the bottom I did notice that the Makerpoint PVA-M dissolves in water a bit quicker compared with the Ultimaker PVA, so I assume this will also mean it's more difficult to store and keep in good condition. I keep mine always in a box, also while printing. https://www.youmagine.com/designs/drybox-for-pva-ultimaker3 and something that some may see as a slight disadvantage, when dissolving the water turns milky white quickly, so you can't see the model, but to be honest irl you just take it out of the bucket now and then, so no real issue. short conclusion: the stuff prints fine and is a lot cheaper

very nice!

I never heared of that printer so you are probably better of asking people who know it. But just thinking out load if pre supplied files do print can you open them in notepad and f.e. compare the starting part of the file with the files you get from cura? You may need to change some startup code in the printer definition files.

Best thing is to get a better feeder as you mentioned. You can also get the um2+ feeder from any um reseller. If you're out of cash now print a better feeder like Roberts feeder or one of its derivatives. Print slower or hotter for now. It may also be that the first layer height is relative high. Try lowering from f.e. 0.3 to 0.2 so the feeder has less to output.

And soon is real soon. Expect some news next week

Same here. most of the time I load/unload manually, much faster.... material is retracted anyhow so you can just pull it out... and push new stuff in... To avoid painful fingers use this thing; https://www.youmagine.com/designs/wedgebot-for-ultimaker2

So what material did you use in the end for the mold and the final product? Absolutely love your result !!!

How does your pva feel? Does it feel sticky? Do you store it closed? Pva gets slippery when absorbing moisture.