ultiarjan

How did you update, did you install the latest CURA (2.3.1), install the correct printer, and then do an update from there? if not try that again.

Just to be extra clear, the Ultimaker2+ (has the big white feeder) is geared, and the Ultimaker2 (small black feeder) is not geared, so you probably mixed up these two.

Yes. The're connected in series. So they are both without power. And why not just repair the cable?

did you update firmware and the problem is still there? or did you not manage to update the firmware? Apart from this your print quality good? In the mean time (not a solution but helpful anyhow) you can much quicker push the material in manually by just pulling the lever on the feeder and pushing in the filament by hand. I always change material manually..... this thing is helpful; https://www.youmagine.com/designs/wedgebot-for-ultimaker2

He has an UMO+ , I've always thought that has the UM2 electronics board....

No idea if Ultimaker will ever sell one, but most UM2 solutions work just as well, like this simple one; https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-minimalist-front-panel There's one main difference, when you want to use the max bed size of the UM3 the head sticks out a tiny bit, so you would need a door that has room for this. With the current default setup and priming positions you will not have an issue here, but I hope someday UM will let us set the priming position in CURA to use the full depth of the bed. And if you need a top cover, for ABS printing, this will also fit the UM3; https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker2-top-cover-clips

I still like this one, although on some materials a bit more friqtion is better to stop the spool from spontaneous unwinding... https://www.youmagine.com/designs/low-friction-um2-spoolholder On the UM3 I like to keep 1 spool on the back , and the 2th spool on the side. Used the spoolholder, but directly mounted to a piece of plywood. It fits the 1 Kg Extrudr green-tec spools. picture is a UM2+ but its the same setup

You can just get parts at US re-sellers. Or directly from https://fbrc8.com, these are the guys that build the UM machines for the us market. https://ultimaker.com/en/resellers?c=US

Think your best option is to upgrade the complete head to an UM2 head. The easiest route is to use an upgrade kit, but you can also partially upgrade and get separate parts; https://ultimaker.com/en/community/21167-assembly-manual-um2-upgrade-kit-on-ultimaker-original-plus

> did you get a cheap Chinese block & nozzles is what they mean to ask > Indeed you should tighten the nozzle at printing temp, I use 230c > What material did you use to print the Olsson wrench? I'd advice PLA, if you know someone with a torque wrench, you can test the torque of the printed wrench, it needs to be around 0.4 to 0.5 Nm but I've seen more than one that produced less... best thing ofc is to use a real torgue screwdriver, like a "wera 7440" , but it's not cheap...

first print with the ruby. 2.5 yr old bronzefill, it's very brittle, but still printing ok.

Ah so pc abs is more brittle? Are all white blocks, untill you changed to black, from the PC ABS batch ?

just lost connection again, connected by wire. print was normally ended, normally confirmed i emptied the buildplate.

Updated to firmware 3.5 today, here's some first remarks; The update itself was fine, no issues. when I started the first print after the update, I was forced to do a "buildplate calibration". Would prefer if the data would survive an update, but else I'dd rather have the message at the end of the update process iso only when starting a new print (fyi, I dont use auto bed level, all manual) The first print after updating failed because the material was retracted so much that the first layer was missing material. I was printing single extrusion with the 2th nozzle. (sliced with cura 2.3.1) When I print with the 2th nozzle only, the printer still first makes a change move to the 1st nozzle. After I made a first successful print, I confirmed print removed, and walked the dog for half and hour. When I wanted to start the 2th print CURA had lost connection to the printer (on a wired network) "no access to print with this printer". But I did still see the camera feed in cura ..... the button "request access" did nothing. Did not want to restart CURA and loose the whole setup, so printed with USB.

great tip! thanks

No idea what is causing it, but did you do a clean reinstall of 2.3.1 ? I mean clean these settings folders? It may help? If you have like custom profiles back them up first ..... on windows7; C:\Users\YOURNAME\AppData\Local\cura

Denk het wel, maar niet zeker, gebruik zelf een Pi2, en dat werkt voldoende, maar wellicht is de extra rekenkracht nuttig als je er meerdere camera's aan wilt hangen...

VERY COOL STUFF !!!!

very cool !!! is the print quality good? can you share some more details and close ups of the feeder?

did some work on this topic, CNCed a bottom plate, but had no proper 60 degree countersink drill so it's a failure Better luck next year, ordered a 60 degree drill on ebay .... also had a look at printing it in aluminium.... but thats 70,- the middle part is in heat resistant silicone, thought i'dd try if that would be good enough to isolate the heat from the printed head.... we'll see next year.

she still needs to upgrade her GO to a GO+

http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide#shifted Check if you have a loose pully. They really need to be super tight.

you'll have to get 2

Even then it's not possible to guarantee the exact same results hmm, that I don't understand, if you stick to using the same CURA version I would hope for a guaranteed same g-code.

I ordered one at trideus yesterday.... they currently still have 3 on stock.... http://www.trideus.be/nl/the-olsson-ruby-nozzle.html