ultiarjan

So it's actually pretty simple.... just increase flow...

LOL, i did not see that, I must be blind .... But still line width will not help IMHO, so how to really increase flow ...?

saving a project file I'm very happy with the ability to save a project file (item+position+settings) but the implementation in the GUI is a bit confusing. If you save from the save button (bottom right) you get a variety of option, except for the project file. Don't think the saving of a .3MF file will save a project, it will not. the only way to save a project is to save from file/save project. If you want to konw if a file is a projectfile there are 2 types of extension; .3MF - not a projectfile (no cura settings in the file) .curaproject.3MF - this is a projectfile And the last tricky thing, if you open a project file, by double clicking it, cura will NOT recognize it as a project file. Even if you open it from cura it will not open as a project. You have to explicitly open a project file:

I agree with increasing flow (I do it to create a watertight spiralized vase) but it's something different than increasing line width..... I would say keep line width the same, but increase flow on your machine (in case of UM2) so you basically over-extrude material. If you can reach inside somehow, a coating of PVC glue inside will also help...

Maybe you should update your profile and add where you live.... and I have one myself I never use

I've asked long ago to connect these settings to profiles.... still think this would be the best. @meduza 's option would already be an improvement...

new topic to collect issues with the just released 2.4 I just noticed that loading erik's hairy lion project file will screw up your visibility settings. Apparently loading a project file that has all advanced settings visibility turned off screws your settings. I lost visibility off settings on ALL machines, not only the one in the project..... So it seems I can now manually figure out again which settings I liked to see :( so carefull with this one https://www.youmagine.com/designs/hairy-lion-dual-color-with-cura-3mf-file

I use the anova as well, works nice, but there are cheaper options like an aquarium pump f.e.

I'm not really sure what the wattage of the pre-installed heater is. It might be the most simple solution to just replace the heater. http://3dsolex.com/product/40w-heater-um2/ I never used a volcano, so can't help you there. Just in general I'm not a big fan of full metal hotends (tried the V6) as a general all purpose hotend, the V6 sucks on PLA.

What heater do you use in your um? Maybe you can replace it to a higher wattage

that would be difficult.....they also use the line on the um2

So I just got a PM from someone who did not like my rant... Basically stating Ultimaker is a big company now and they just have to cover there ass, no harm done. I obviously disagree with the 'no harm done' as I feel the open character is a big part of Ultimakers success. But maybe I can elaborate a bit more. In short, I think the wording of the warranty is not representing the values I hope Ultimaker has. I think they could achieve the same goal (limiting warranty caused by the use of unsuited material) in a more positive way. maybe something like; But hey, what do i know... I'm no legal person...

I think it's a bloody disgrace that this is in there! I think it goes against the open Ultimaker value and it's just plain stupid. So my advice just ignore it, it's bla bla from the legal and marketing people and as others said your CORE is a consumable without warranty anyhow. I feel this nonsense only hurts the companies image, and won't bring anything. The best way to sell more filament is to sell stuff that's better than others, and is worth the money......

The problem with webcams is that there are so many different shapes and sizes... I don't have a ready solution, but can show what I did. I had one of the classic types (large ball) and took out the guts to put in a simple but smaller housing; I also have a notebook type webcam, and just printed a fitting bracket for it;

It looks very nice indeed! I do have some doubt on changing nozzles while the block is cold, I much prefer to do it while the block is hot. I'm working on something myself to heat up the core outside of the printer. This solution will for sure not look as nice as your design

bronzefill (using the Olsson ruby) + red pla, the magnetic changer is super reliable.

Yeah, like the core so much I even use it in my "GO" https://ultimaker.com/en/community/24039-using-the-ultimaker3-core-on-an-ultimaker2?page=2&sort=#reply-171478

quick update on the "CORE HEAD" decided to improve the electronics connector mounting, so I made a tiny pcb on my shapeoko, using a small engraving cutter. Finally also made the aluminium bottom plate, cut the main shape on the shapeoko, drilled the 60 degree center hole, and manually made the needed chamfers. Not the most accurate process but ok for now. Mounted the whole thing, did 2 prints, big improvement, think I nailed it this time. Used fuzzy skin in this print, don't really like the looks on this model but the print is fine imho.

Lol again a bcn demo...

I still have one unmodified (well it has a bondtech) UM2, so I'm up to testing the ZGE on there first, get to know it, and than later see if i can modify it to the magnetic changer. @gudo just let me know when you want me on board to test a version on UM2. If I can just get the files first I can already start by printing the parts....

I think I would love it as 2th head on the magnetic toolchanger.... guess it should be possible when using the right back corner as the base. How about the friction produced by the axis, @gudo do you think it's low enough to use on a magnetically mounted head?

It basically means you can do anything as you would be able to when on the internal network (if I explain that correctly, I'm no network expert..) Easiest is to look in the manual of your router, in my case (a fritzbox) it was super easy to set up a vpn in a few minutes. I can now just use the Ultimaker app to control the UM3 on my phone from anywhere.

Maybe a simple option is to use the signal of the fans? Pwm control in gcode out of the box. The breakout PCB syntax terror is working on will give even separate fan control in dual extrusion setup. (the PCB is part of the magnetic toolchanger beta) Another option is to use the signal of the printers led's. Also control able from gcode.

Dunno, and probably @ultiarjan knows more, but if you change nozzles I bet you might need to recalibrate x/y/z (that's 20mins procedure). But I could be wrong. Z for sure, XY probably not, but changing nozzles is more time consuming vs changing a core, since I would always do it heated, I would try to stick to using the same nozzle on a hardcore, f.e. a 0.6 on a hardcore and 0.4 on UM core. Also because you want to make sure the hardcore is not leaking.

It also depends a lot on how you use the UM3, I don't use the auto bed leveling, and I change cores and material manually...... like this it's pretty much just as fast as the UM2......