ultiarjan

There's a few ways to do it, use the USB stick..... or send the files thru the UM3 app on your phone.

wow PEEK !! very nice. How does your chamber look like? any additional heating or just the 110 bed? I'm surprised it sticks at all with just 110...

first the obvious, is you power plug pluged in deep enough? there's a locking mechanism in it.... Else with this issue on a new machine I think you should get in touch with the re-seller.... maybe it's a bad power supply? Do you (or someone close to you) have an UM2? in that case you can test with that powersupply, it's the same....

Is it just bad because of the wifi connection on the phone? I connect when i'm out of the house by login to the home network through VPN, on a samsung S7, works fine. The VPN setup depends on your home router. I'n my case (fritzbox) it was super easy to setup. Look into the manual of your router how to do it.

First, cura 2.4 is a totally new program, build from ground up, don't use any 15xx files, plugins etc, will not work. Then, for the sake of curiosity (only own Ultimakers) I had a look at the PLAY setup. I see there is at least a printer definition available, so that's nice, but it does not seem a very refined one... I see by default all visibility settings are turned on, even the ones you definitely don't need, like for dual extrusion, so you probably want to clean this up. Also the standard profiles are weird; "normal" is 0.2 and "low" is 0.15 - does not make any sense... If you want to change the base setup of the machine you'll find the machine definition here; C:\Program Files\Cura 2.4\resources\definitions And most of the base settings can be changed in a menu in the machine settings. I guess your quickest solution would be to get some profiles and a project file from someone who already tweaked cura for the PLAY (is there no printrbot forum?) else you'll just have to do some trial and error yourself....

https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2 Here's an UM2 assembly manual, it's a bit old but shows you how the thing is build. I this case I would not disconnect the wires/electronics, but just take apart the head, including the metal parts, take of the heaterblock/olsonblock, then you should be able to move the block through the black plastic parts. You may need to heat it up a bit to unscrew the hot end isolater, the metal part with the holes all around. You can screw/unscrew this thing also by sticking a small hex screwdriver in one of the holes. You'll find the hot end around page 48.

Just did a print on core1 only, cura 2.4, even set the temp of core 2 to 0, but still it heats up core 2 at the start. Does not do the priming though.

If you have a new machine that's not working you better get in touch with the re-seller. The UM3 does start up a little longer than an UM2 due to the extra electronics. For you reference I timed mine; - 8 seconds ; logo on display - 35 seconds light on on turn wheel - 52 seconds; printer lights on, display ready the first 35 seconds can be confusing the first time, looks like the printer is not doing anything.... some sort of message (starting up) would be better than just the logo.

Yep, you should have 2 STL's, one for every material, you can also break up the model in more than 2 STL's, you can assign a material/nozzle to each stl. just read this dual color guide; https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/34185-quick-start-guides

If you have shifted layers you probably have a loos pulley; http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide#shifted

I do the same; https://www.youmagine.com/designs/wedgebot-for-ultimaker2 But I do think there should be a menu driven way to change.... it will probably come some day....

well.... yours are bigger

I agree. On the other hand it would reassure a lot of people more if Ultimaker would be able to organize a patent sharing pact with the other good guys in the industry ....

you may also want to have a look at the Ultimaker3 solution, basically all comunications done by the "Olimex20" board, and the printer hardware still connected by a UM2 like board. https://ultimaker.com/en/community/23282-questions-about-ultimaker-3?page=2 I guess more details will become available soon, as Ultimaker promised in the "we filed a first patent" communication,they will still publish machine drawings on github as usual, I assume this includes electronics... should be in 6 months after first shipping the printer, so that's in about 2 months I think.

It's the "horizontal expansion" setting. It's on by default because PVA does not stick to well on top of PLA, so it helps building PVA up from the bed.

It would help a lot if you share a picture.

for comparison... https://www.tesla.com/blog/all-our-patent-are-belong-you so from the Tesla text; from the Ultimaker blog; Looks to me Tesla want's to spread technology, Ultimaker seems more limiting...

the first example that comes to mind; Anyone here who watched "print the legend" and did not think Avi Reichental was the asshole and Formlabs were the good guys? don't become the assholes. closer to home; let's say BCN (or anyone) will get inspired by the Ultimaker Auto Leveling (I probably need to read the patent as I don't jet understand whats new about it..) and implements an improved version that's even much more betterer .... will you think he, let's make it bettererer ourself or will you be assholes... thats the big question for the future.

Well, ofc I know very little about patents, but I guess in general patents hugely block innovation. Defensive or not. But I have a lot of trust in Ultimaker, so It may be a necessary evil in today's world, which does not make it a good thing. Statements like this in the blog post do leave a lot of room for interpretation to say the least...

Seems pretty clear they prefer to sell you an upgrade kit. Think it's policy not to promote the standalone feeder but when asked they should sell you one, the complete kit is an Ultimaker spare part. IMHO it's pretty dumb that they push you towards bondtech... You can always just order the parts... will be much more annoying for them to supply if you do this check the bom/step of the UM2+ think there are 2 parts you need 2 off.... item nr. 1279 Feeder Ring 1960 Grip Axis 1961 Idler Spring 1962 Tension Indicator 1963 Feeder casing Part A-left 1965 Feeder casing Part B-left 1967 Feeder lever part A 1968 Feeder lever part B 1969 Spur gear 1M 11T 1970 Spur gear 1M 36T 1971 Threaded standoff 1972 Idler wheel 1973 Bearing idler wheel 1974 Bearing feeder axis 1976 Filament Guide Insert

You should be able to buy the +feeder separately.... But if it's just the old spring and bearing you need I can help... as i upgraded all my printers. Send me a pm.

I guess 3dverkastan the um dealer in Sweden should have these parts on stock.... But why do you still use the old feeder? I would really advice to upgrade to the +feeder... which I'm sure you can also buy from an um reseller.

I would check the faulty endstop with a multimeter.... or just replace it... Or if your in a hurry cut of the cable close to the end stop and solder on new wirering...

you have a cura preset for PLA at 265c ??? where? seems very unlikely.... We'll that's put a bit strong. all depends on expectations. Default profiles are just average. If you want a print to look the best visually or a mechanical print to be very strong will require different settings. The profiles are 'best for most people' but can never be best for every single situation, thats just simply impossible.

Increasing line width will also increase the distance between lines, so the extra material will need to cover extra area, so the effect is zero..... I think, correct me if I'm wrong.Increase flow actually puts out more material on the same area....