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ultiarjan

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Everything posted by ultiarjan

  1. same here, removed the sticker and use both sides.
  2. I use a VPN to my home network, works fine....
  3. Yes, works fine, I tried it on both the UM3 and a modified UM2+.
  4. just checked it in 2.4, works like a charm! I got to 207mm in X, by only turning of brim/skirt, did not try the long list of other related settings higher up in this thread.
  5. I would just wait a bit more, cura 2.4 stable version should come out any minute now.
  6. Is there a single extrusion profile/method for um3 already? I have not seen it?
  7. Just don't use a brim. For many materials/prints you can do without it.
  8. Seems solved in 2.4Beta2, the stable release should be out very soon.
  9. well if all else fails, you at least have some spare parts seriously if you want to attempt to take the thing apart have a look at this first; edit: somehow inserting this video does not work.... but the above link does...
  10. please have a look at this; https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/21477-how-to-fix-under-extrusion
  11. What about just pushing in a thin metal wire from the under side while pushing fillament from the top like tom's says. For 0.4 mm you can f.e use 1 strand from a metal brush or a acupuncture needle.
  12. Won't be the the cheapest option, but for convenience i would just get it at my ultimaker reseller.
  13. It's only great in theory.... he states it does not work.... and we already know pla/pva bonding is not the best, therefore the horizontal expansion is on by default in cura. I wonder though if it might be a good idea to try on nylon/pva as the bonding is much better there.
  14. Fyi. De parkeergarage Cambridge laan was ook gratis. Dus ik vermoed ook na 1800 gratis.
  15. Yes. I just level manually with a piece of ordinary copy paper. The bed is pretty stable. You hardly ever need to redo it. On my um2 it's not even needed after transporting it by car. I just have a preference for manual... also change material and cores manually... it's just quicker. But besides my preferences the auto functions should work ofc.
  16. Wat is de beste plek om te parkeren bij het nieuwe Protospace ?
  17. What is it that's bad exactly? Do you get underextrusion? Do you still use the old -black- feeder? If so upgrade to the new plus feeder.
  18. And another rough big print, 0.6 nozzle for the silver, 0.25 layers. And another warning.... like I said, don't use the supplied tools, you really want things to be tight.... cause IF you get a leak, now matter how small the chance may be.... cleaning it will be a lot harder than on the UM2......... the Ultimaker 3 head is not as easy to take apart
  19. Why would you want that? the CORE's are real good IMHO .....
  20. I would prefer one open standard myself. However I do think it's valuable that these core's remain compatible with the original core's this way.
  21. And one more picture, to show the nozzle from the original Ultimaker Core left to right; - Jet nozzle for Ultimaker2 olsson block - HardCore nozzle - Nozzle from ultimaker 0.4AA Core - Block from AA Core
  22. Oh, one more thing @gr5 did you try it with auto-leveling? I did not as I never use it.
  23. ok now... don't all go asking for for apps he's 16 and still in school....
  24. While it's not without risk it's certainly possible, read this; https://ultimaker.com/en/community/37351-alternative-core-for-ultimaker3-available-the-3d-solex-hardcore
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