Torgeir

Hi, thanks, for replay -and sure I've been testing this issue with my UM2E+. I'll think that the last print you made with the "alpha" version of Cura is much better and the doubled numbers of triangles plus speed reduction contributed as well.. A head -that's have to much play, sometimes make every second line offset some -and this very much depend of the model plus how it is sliced. Good Luck Thanks Torgeir

Hi, this is strange, I've been looking at the model in the previous posting and found thous three lines around not seen at all in preview mode or in "ufd" preview mode. When looking closer to those lines, they all appear when there is a "sharp" change in horizontal movement at those levels. There is three such areas, the first overhang, the second overhang and the last is the "unsupported" roof (you are using support block here). So I'm just wondering if you have a little play in X or Y, or maybe both axis? Should be easy to feel by just trying to move the head, without actually moving it, but you will feel if there is a lot of slack/play. Just a very little play is normal.. I've tried to slice your model with different versions of Cura and they are slightly different, but the issues that your print have is not seen in any of them. I'm curious if you find too much slack in the print head, as I cannot see that this is a software problem.. Do you experienced this issue in other prints? Thanks Torgeir

Thanks for replying back, better to be safe than sorry. 🙂 Great job. Torgeir

Hi @flyntm, if you look into the heat bed, inner right side where the wires is connected. You may use a little mirror and a good light source. There is four wires connected to the connector block (just under the bed here), when overheat starts to occur the white colored insulation start to be burnt brownish.. This is the first sign to look for here. Under the printer is the access to the electronics for the printer, Ultimaker warns about high voltage present inside here -as the main power supply is also located in here.. Printer must be disconnected from the main, but even disconnected capacitors might hold high voltage and can kill you. Inside here you will find the main PCB that is white and marked with Ultimaker.. On this PCB, there is two white wires connected to the "big" heat bed connector (the two for extruder heaters is beside here). Just look for the brownish colored wires and check for the same not occur close around this connector. A picture of this PCB is found in the last link below, roll down to the last picture and see the two wires (~AWG 16) connected to the terminal block. Inside here is lots of good information, and the author is a member of this site, @fbrc8-erin . There is not a lot of documentation about this printer, but here are some: At Github here: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker3/tree/master/3D model Ultimaker 3 Ultimaker North America Support https://ultimakernasupport.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/115004187366-Electronics-Board Sure there might be other issues, but this one is most important to sort out first. Good luck Thanks Torgeir

Hi @flyntm, this is an "alarming" sign of a failure that can be very costly if you continue printing with this issue. The contacts, two on the bed (feeding current) or the two on the main board might be starting to arch due to increased contact resistance. It can also be the soldering from the printed foil on the bed that's going to the contact block. This is a failure that can occur after some high printing hour of your printer. Each time the printer heat up the bed, there will bee some extension when heated and retraction when cooling down. Over time this can develop cracking in the soldering and as the contact get less good, this point will heat much up and may burn the contact/print foil. There might be other issues, but this is the most important to first check out. Thanks Torgeir

Hi, here you'll find the new version, an alpha version of Cura (kind of experimental). https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/tags I can't remember if this version want to "delete" previous versions of Cura, but if you have to answer no. PS., it might also help to increase the numbers of triangles in the model before exporting the file to Cura. Here is two pictures of your model sliced with Cura 4.8.0 and the new alpha version of Cura (issued 22 Des 2020). First, Cura 4.8.0. And here is the new Cura Arachne engine alpha. Good luck Thanks Torgeir

Hi @Hops, you can see the issue by opening ufp file of the model in Cura, -I'll assume you're using version 4.8.0. (Just zoom in). The missing/hided line in one of you pictures, I cannot see, maybe check the Z shaft greasing. Just upload the new Cura version: Arachne_engine_alpha. You will see a big difference in the affected area.. No need to change any of your project settings. By the way, this is really a smart way to save PVA! Thanks Torgeir

Hi @Jerome68, Welcome in here. I cannot see that there is any "direct" connection between the electronics and the overflow issue. However, if the lift mechanism in the left slot upper part got a kind of "new" offset there might be an issue, or if it is a permanent offset fixture between the slot guides. (Too much difference in height between the nozzles.) What kind of error does the printer give? When the lift switch fail occur, can you see that the switching fail and how? I.E. Switching from left to right, or the other way around? Thanks Torgeir

Hi, This is an "adapter SD card" for using "micro SD" into a standard SD slot. What printer do you have? Thanks Torgeir

Hi, he named it "neosanding". Here it is:

Great.. Just look up the firmware version in the printer menu, but this does not tell what printer it is for. However, if you use a short old known print you have on the sd card, try, if the feeder moves the right way it should be ok I'll think.

Hi @tojiero, @tinkergnome is addressing an important issue here. As your printer is an original born UM2+ using 2.1.4, I'd assume that this one have the right firmware with the right setting. But when you use UM2+ in Cura there might be a surprise for you, as the stepper direction and gearing is different between UM2 and UM2+. This might happen if the firmware is made for UM2 was installed on the PCB. There is a gcode command for seeing the gear ratio.

Inside the stepper motor there is "two" coils. Each end of thous two coils are connected to the 4 pin connector.

Just swap black and green..

You just swap the wires on one of the coil, then it is changing direction.

You can count from either side, (1 and 2) or (3 and 4). Also; Black and green or red and blue. Black and green represent one coil, red and blue is the other coil.

Maybe this happen during production and e-stepper direction then was changed in the firmware.. Just guessing. 🙂 Another good reason for swapping the pins is that, now your stepper is according to default firmware. Good to hear your printer is up running again. Good luck Torgeir

Since your machine is open, the covers is still off, right. If the fastest way of turning the steppers, might be to just swap pin one and pin two. Actually, this can be done on the connector for the E-stepper motor. If you swap the two wires on one just side (there's four pins in total), the stepper will change direction. Note the colors before you begin, or take a photo. Here is how to release the pin and lift up the lip, before inserting to new position:

Come to think about that those type of fans are "brush less" and contain an electronic controller. So her it might be a very high resistance and only seen in reverse direction. Might be around 10 M ohm, I'll think, but way vary a little from brand to brand..

Well, the 5 VDC is controlling the circuit that's operating the 24 VDC relay that's switching the 24 VDC to the PCB for feeding the "users" of this voltage, the tree heater outputs and the five stepper motors plus the 24 VDC fan output. This latter fan output is probably meant for cooling fan for the PCB, my best guess. So 5 VDC is the "main" voltage here that drives this famous RISC processor that controls "all" functions in the printer. This PCB consist of four layers; top layer (component layer), inner layer no 2, inner layer no 3 (most of the surface here is directly connected to the 5 VDC) and layer no 4 (this layer is grounded mostly but many point here are hot "have (5 or 24) Volt DC present. Many other is also connected to the various connectors etc. Normally when such power converter fails, it's caused by (sometimes) "high" current combined with high temperature. This is a very bad condition, as the converter warms up as current rice and will fast go out of control burning of internal connection or short completely the input voltage.. Actually, this is the reason I'm using two small fan (24 VDC) connected in serial to avoid much noise but work very good for cooling this PCB. (I've to install those fans in a foam "attachment" to avoid the chassis act as a resonance box.) 🙂 Finally just a few point holding 5 VDC; J34 pin 1, TP13 (same as J5 pin 1 safety switch) and TP16 close to U6. This will keep you busy.. Torgeir

Yes, the chip "U6" is the down-converter (24-5) VDC and "D16" is the fly back diode (Always change those two together). U6 type number: A4403GEUTR-T D16 type number: SSB44-E3/52T

Hi @tojiero, This is indeed a very good macro picture.. When looking at the picture of the PCB, I can see that this printer have not been used for many hours. Normally the stepper drivers (5 each IC's "close" to the "metal" el.capacitors and stepper connectors) makes the PCB's withe color become colored brownish due to the heat released from those "stepper motors" drivers. This brownish color is kind of normal for printers running several thousand hours. After seeing the picture of the entire print circuit board, I understand your concern about installing this new board into the printer. As your printer stopped working in the middle of printing, we might check the two wires going from the PCB to the "hot end" cooling fan installed in the back of the head. This two wires hold a voltage of 5 VDC, connected directly to the 5 VDC bus on the main PCB. This wire harness is in constant movement during printing, so a short of "some kind" in here is possible. As you printer is kind of new, it might be wise to check this wiring -all the way into the fan.. What was the temperature in the printer room when the printer failed? (Electronics do not withstand much heat.) Lets see if this wiring is in good shape. Torgeir

Hmm. This one leave "should" send you to Ultimakers page in "github" showing the pdf file directly.. If I press the link, I'll go right there.. this day.. well.. https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2/blob/master/um2 assembly manual V1.1 I'd snipped off the last part (included in the link), hope it's work now.

Aha.. 👍 OK.. There is a few thing to check. Hmm. There is actually no external outputs, that can brick the complete main PCB, -however there is "outputs" that can brick the 5 VDC power supply on the main PCB board. Also -the 24 VDC power supply might be checked, -if it has the right voltage, can deliver the max load (ampere) and is clean without high ripple voltage. Normally, they work, -or fail completely and give no power at all. The 5 VDC fan (short), as it is connected directly to 5VDC -I'll think. (As far as I'll know, there is no fuse in this circuit, so a short here might make the 5 VDC converter to fail.) Also a defect controller PCB -shorting the 5 VDC at the main PCB. When you ask like this, I'll answer issues that's might play a role in here.. However, most of the problems is often on the main board itself and often caused by high temperature. PS. You old PCB might be possible to run using an external 5 VDC source -able to deliver 2.5 Amp continiusy. (But this is another issue.) I'll think this is more like what you want.. Torgeir

OK., got it.. But does this mean you got two PCB's(?), -or just have the original 2.1.4? The link is working OK. This is a brand new link, I've always check this as I do not want to put up anything here that might not be revised etc. But sure, I do have a copy of this file and can put it up here if you like. Sure I've got some confused.. 🙂 Torgeir