Torgeir

Hmm. Strange this.. Both side of the cap sensor attachment holes is shield connected. In the first posting, you've mention there there seems to be a sign of "corrosion". The contact point of the red wire is isolated from the shield, and it is passed through the PCB connection to the "active" sensor foil on the underside of this circuit board. The two picture of the sensor is made before and after cleaning and I guess the sensor was removed for this issue. Maybe worth mention, cleaning captive sensors with water is a no, no thing in general. However, since you mentioned corrosion, could water (due to high humidity "storing")been entering the PCB infill? In general, -very rare, -but possible. Water in one of the worst thing to fight in any capacitive measuring system. As the nozzle is true ground and the shield is not -there should be no electrical contact between them. When the metering procedure is ongoing, the slow speed approaching bed toward the nozzle will meet and the "capacitance increase" stop changing, -this is the signal to the software to stop moving the bed. When measuring this sensor for open circuit and more than 100 M ohm resistance (reading OL - open line) is good. From the red connector point to the underside "PCB" foil, we should red ~0 Ohm resistance.. That's pretty much all you can do, -before sending the printer to repair.. Last thing, or "sometime" first thing to do, -is to try "reset all printer setting" -will not erase the print cores data.. Maybe someone else have something to add.. Good luck Thanks Torgeir

Way to go! 🙂 Thanks for the feedback. Regards Torgeir

Hi @jeffroe, Did you really unplug the cooling fan and test? This is a must to do as the fan might create to much noise, even if the cables are located in the right place when fan is running.. This is something @fbrc8-erin learned us sometime ago. When the leveling process start, the program read the "capacity plus stray capacity" in the head. As long this capacity is within specs, the bed start ricing. At certain height the program expect to see that the capacity is increasing, but if this is not happen, the bed go to home position the process is aborted and signal an error. Also, the inside shielding of fan and lo part of housing is part of the active capacitor (shield side). This little "heat shrink tube" might be a "rubber spring", -placed there to prevent the capacitor plate to vibrate and give false reading. (Just needed on one side.) There is a weak point in the cabling (all moving cables has a lifetime) and this point is where the cables is bent when opening/closing the core/fan cooling door. There can be an open wire, either the red or the withe but this will not be detected by the system cause it still can read a capacitance as the ruptured parts is close together (because here is an A/C present with a frequency that's measuring the capacity of the setup). So, there might be a rupture inside the insulation that you cannot see. Thanks Torgeir

Not a problem. There is really a cold winter down there I can see.. Did you look for the latest driver from openGL? The driver you have is from 2018, but maybe right for win7. You may do a render test to see that your graphic card go through (press the "multi sampling" test). I did go to Dremels home page and downloaded their Cura version for testing. When started it, it took some time.. But this looks like Cura version 3.6.0, it asked me if to over write a previous version of Cura, -but I'll always say no for this to happen. Is the PC you're using a laptop? Or a desktop? There might be something missing in your setup, driver or some setting in BIOS.. OK., Here is a picture of Cura (version 3.6.0 ?) adapted for Dremel 3D printers: As you se, it's possible and it seems to work. PS., try to run some compatible test in order to see if this can give some idea. Good luck Torgeir

As usual, you are right.. 🙂 Torgeir.

Hi @flea77, Not sure if I can help you much, but lots of people have had problem with getting Cura to work. Very often they had problem with the graphic adapters drivers. -I've had my part as well. 🙂 Cura need to use the API "openGL" (open graphic library) and it must be version 2 or higher. Finding the right driver for "any" laptop or PC can really be a real problem. Anyway, there is a program named "OpenGL Extension Viewer - 6.1.6.0". This is distributed by Realtech VR (visual reality). The program have many functions, as test etc., and have an option to find "best openGL drivers for your PC. The latest version of openGL is version 4.6. Here is a little info in general and you'll find a link to Realtech as well: https://support.esri.com/en/technical-article/000011375 Here is a picture of it from my PC. Good luck Thanks Torgeir

Hi @gr5, I'm not 100% sure but I think it means the gcode file is corrupt (actually ufp file for S3). Sure, you're right.. 🙂 Well, I tried to print this latter file (UM3S_Another try.udf), -but got a message with a yellow "exclamation mark" and "Conflict" across the model. Still using firmware 5.8.0 on my S3. (wonder if older firmware addressed this issue different?) Torgeir

Hi there, Just a little note, half of your model is floating above the bed. But if this create the error -have no idea.

Hi @arktape, Thanks. Whats materials selected here matter, I'll think. As this is a bleeding nozzle, -the temperature decrease and the whole thing will bee very cold.. So maybe ABS become very brittle and just snap at times. The nylon is the strongest filament I've been printing ever.. -And also take "some" lo temperatures, -but how this work for your project, I cannot tell. So I'll think all this depend of the physics involved, and to find a perfect match that's make this setup last. Anyway, good luck. Torgeir

Well, there's an option for that.. Isn't the issue to make something that's last? Hmm, -maybe I misunderstood this thing..

Hi @arktape, Interesting project.. I would print the nozzle using nylon, it's very strong and will handle the pressure. For the sealing, I would use a heath shrink tube, of the "soft" type and using special glue for good attachment. The grooves after 3d printing the nozzle will provide good adhesion for glue Google Raychem heat shrink tube.. So, when a sealing is done, remove the old tube and install a "new" sealing into the nylon nozzle. Another option is to just print another sleeve with TPU 95A, which can be threaded over the nylon nozzle. The option is yours. 🙂 Thanks Torgeir

Hi @tanatorn, Not very often we see people from Thailand in here. 🙂 I can see that @gr5 have tried to help you here. You have tried to use "xload" hex file loader, -but this "setup" only work for another brand of printer. So do not use the "xload" program. You might have had problem to upload the files, due to warning from windows, right? As gr5 suggested, the best way is to use an old version of Cura program. You can download directly from this site: It is here Ultimaker store all the different versions of Cura. Here is Cura Version 15.04.6., you just have to find the right file in here. Sometimes, those packed version can be a little tricky to unpack/unzip. https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/tags?after=lulzbot-19.08 If you have problem with unpacking the above, you might try Cura version 2.3.1 This is an *.exe versions Cura 2.3.1., for Windows. Here you might select 32 bit or 64 bit version. https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/releases/tag/2.3.1 With this program, you can also upload to the correct version, of firmware for you UM2+ printer. Here is some pictures how to do the firmware update from Cura 2.3.1 After selecting the correct printer UM2+, you press "Update Firmware" and then press "Automatic update firmware". You will also see the message: "Printer Connected". I can see in one of the picture from you, that windows is seeing your printer, so this should work. Good luck Thanks Torgeir

Hi @philippe44, for your printing problem, -you hardly find any better advice than @geert_2 have listed here.. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @philippe44, you sure need to indicate which pulley was found loose, -without this info it's impossible to verify the fault. A picture of the objects location inside the printer when the "missed steps" occurs is also a good for understanding the failure. So picture of the pulley and picture of the faulty print object when they're still on the bed says more than a thousand word. A project file of what you're printing may help -as a slicing error can make your printer become like look faulty.. I'll think your first layer is good! Trying to change too many thing right away is not the way to go, as if it's become OK., you never will be sure what was real thing that's failed. An UM2 is not possible to wear down, actually a small amount of routine maintenance, -will keep this printer last much longer than most other printers there is! Thanks Torgeir

Great finding.. Just looked at my printer and it appear it's not fastened with screws, there is just five notches two on each length and one in the bottom for this cover. Might be lifted a little up and just pulled out.. Think the cover is some plastic, but not sure. You may find some more on google for sure.. Good luck. Torgeir

There is some open source stuff about UM3 on github.

Yes, but first you have to remove the inside cover. I'm not sure how in the UM3E, I've got an UMS3. You need to hold the motor..

It sure can affect precision, if it hangs up etc. It might be possible to oil, but this can go both ways.. Since you detected this early, might be worth a try. There is an assembly manual for UM2 with some info., and for this area it is the same arrangement.

Hmm., this might be one of the bearing of the X shaft, when both long X shaft is rotating it is moving the head along Y axis. As the inner X shaft have kind of high tension, over time this will wear out first. I'll think if you loosen the Y stepper motor, and then move along the Y axis you may hear the noise from this bearing.. You may also listen to this bearing, but might be hard to spot.. Yes, this thing can play a little with you..

That's good. Well, there is 3 shafts involved that's need to be lubricated for Y and 3 each for the X axis. So all 6 shafts need lubrication frequently. Other thing here to look for is the belts between all the pulleys. The long belts should be running right above or under the shaft it's moving the sliding block along. The other two short ones(from each stepper motors) must go strait to the pulleys and not climbing on its side. The stepper motor are very rough, and can run for many thousands of hour.

Hmm., strange. Maybe check if the sliding bearing inside the head. Try to find out if there is any play/slack in the head without moving it, just check both axis. Normally there will be a very little play here, you might barely feel it. When the head is doing infill with small movement, this clacking sound might be heard and will be more intense in some positions/directions..

Hi @paoletto, after looking and listening to the noise I'll think this noise come from feeder no 1(if you're printing with this core). This sounds like tooth gear working kind of hard and the clicking sound might be missed steps.. Often the root of such a fail is found in the extruder head. If the forward fan stop working (the fan inside the nozzle core door), -not cooling the upper part of the cores. This will increase the force required to feed the filament (due to friction increasing), and may soon stop feeding filament to the heat core. Sure, a print core blockage may also cause such a problem, but first check this fan.. Good luck Thanks Torgeir

You're welcome, -and you're right doing the math always matter.. 🙂 Wish you good luck. Cheers Torgeir.

Hi @philippe44, this is for sure a hi number of missed step or a loose pulley on X stepper motor. If the stepper loos steps there will be a high clattering noise, but if a pulley is loose there is not much noise, -except if the nozzle head might slam into the side wall and this is noisy.. Also if there is too little lubrication the X shaft parts, due to this the friction might increase and lead to missed step plus offsetting your print object. So if there is not much noise when this happens, check that if the pulley is not "loose" on the X stepper motor *) and that the adjustment of the pulley position on the shaft is correct. If adjustment is required, be sure to tighten the set screw with very good torque when in position. (A poor quality Umbrako (hex) toolkit should not be used for this issue.) *) The X stepper motor is located inside upper right side of the printer- Use Ultimakers assembly manual as reference, found here: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2/blob/master/um2 assembly manual V1.1 _english.pdf PS. I always use 60 degrees Celsius on the bed when printing with PLA. If the room temperature is a little on the low side, a "cold" airflow to the upper part of the print object can cause shrinkage which can detach the model from the bed. But definitely, follow the manufacturers' recommendation for the filament type. Good luck Thanks Torgeir

Hallo Rafael, Vielen Dank für dein Feedback. Grüße Torgeir