Torgeir

Hi Jeff, great to hear that this printer is up running again. Way to go. Torgeir

Hi @Dr4g0N1134, welcome in here. This is a very good example of how to solve problems related to Windows/Cura. You example is a textbook's of how to solve such a problem. Thanks for shearing this with us in here. Regards Torgeir

Thanks. 👍 Torgeir

Hi @gianluca2021, gr5 is 100% right and here it is in Windows 10/64 pro version: This is all the wing sections of a RC (radio controlled) aircraft with wing span 1.60 meter. Sliced with Cura 15.04.5 (observe in the upper left corner). I've used this version since I started with 3D printing.. Thanks Torgeir

I am thinking of applying to be rewarded with such a fire helmet .. 😁 Cause..

Hi @CarloK, Thanks for this information. As for 5.8.1 and 5.8.2, I'll think most S3 users (including me) thought that this two firmware versions only matter to the S5 and pro bundle versions. If my memory serves me right, I'll think this was mentioned in one of the tread following the issue of version 5.8.2.. Is the firmware version 5.8.1 still available? Thanks Torgeir

This is a more close up pictures for sure, -but cannot be sure that there is an open wiring. At this close distance from the heater core, the heat will extend along the wire and sometimes you burn the insulation at some distance from the sleeve. But with this much wear and tear on the fastening tab, it's strange if there is no hole in the wires insulation.. Another thing, if there is no short here, this short/close distance -mean higher capacitance. So could this increased capacitance be the reason for (out of specification sensed) this error? For sure, there is some options. We'll se tomorrow. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @jeffroe, Good catch. It looks like it is burned, -should not be as the place it is touching is "cold".. If you look more closely, could there be a hole in the insulation? This is the heater, and if this is the +24 VDC this can make some heat. So if 24 VDC enter this "ground" that's alternating at a frequency, the capacitive sensor might be destroyed. This one is actually installed inside the print head, the mall PCB where the fan and the capacitive sensor connectors are installed. Again check this little brown spot and if you see the wires in there, -you know whats failed.. Thanks Torgeir

Hi John, Hi John, thanks. I do not want to worry too much about the reflection in this situation, as the object is rough and has no real reflection surface, but also because you're very close to the object with minimal conflict issues. We do worry much about that, when doing "thermal photography" inspection of power lines, this as those "big" splices are made of aluminum that's having (when it is not oxidized) a mirror like surface. Under such conditions, we sometimes got reflection from the helicopters turbo engines "exhaust duct" (or other external heat sources) when trying to read the temperature here, -we would get the radiation from the "hot failed splice" plus the added radiation(the mirrored radiation) from the helicopters exhaust duct. So we are reading to high temperature. To avoid this we just move the helicopter to another position.. I would like to see the result of your emission test experiment. Another one might be to see how good/even the "surrounding" heat will be around a "bigger" object when printed. Just to see if there's any cold zone that may develop warping, would be very interesting I'll think.. Did you ever have a problem with low bed temperature? Hmm., -this bed test will tell. 🙂 Very interesting. Cheers Torgeir

Hi @JohnInOttawa, As I've been a teacher in IR theory and how to use those cameras that's installed/used in mission helicopters ( rotary wing) and mission aircraft (fixed wing), -allow me to answer this one. The infrared specter consist of three band: Lo band - Medium band and High end band. For 3D printing we are in Lo and Medium infrared spectrum band. The colors is a key factor when it comes to heat radiation in our 3D printing "temperature area". Black is the color that radiate and attract heat best! Withe is the poorest heat radiator in both, radiating or attracting heat! All this is widely explained int the thermodynamic theory. This also tell us why some type of color is harder to use than other.. In order to measure the "most" correct temperature from a "surface" for calibration check, we mark it with a black spot (very thin layer black matte color). For the high end temp a boiling kettle (aluminum type) of water 100 deg Celsius and for the lo end zero deg. Celsius we're using a mix of water plus ice cubes that's stirred. Aluminum is used the cold end container. To measure the temperature of the glass surface of the bed, use a black white board pen and make a big enough spot to measure on for your type of camera an you'll read the most correct temperature. You may also use the above method, to check your IR thermometer using same distance from object to IR sensor. Good luck Thanks Torgeir

Hi Greg, I knew you was young, -and now I'm sure by the picture.. Nice girl.. Happy birthday and celebrate properly.. I know you can.. 😁 Best regard Torgeir

👍 Thanks for your feedback. Regards Torgeir

Hi @Fulv, I'll think the UM3 max bed temp is 100 deg., Celsius. I know that UM PC advice using bed temp at 110 deg., C. However, PC in general say/use (80-120) deg., Celsius. On my UM2E+ I'm using a simple top hat, that's covering the top and prevent "cold air" from direct inflow from above. This has proven good for me I'm able to print with nylon and Adamant S1 with this printer.. I'll think if you can keep the bed temperature stable at, say 105 deg. C with a top hat you will be good.. But this will sure be in the experimental area.. Here is a picture of how I did it, with four support hocks, ofc made with this printer: 🙂 For sure, the front is covered as well. Good Luck Thanks Torgeir

Hi @Desprinzla, I'll suggest you go to this site, where you'll find a guide of how to download a log file(s) to the USB device. Here: https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360015583819-Save-log-files-to-USB In this page, you'll also find a mail button (submit a request) for addressing your problem. Thanks Torgeir

Hi folks, I've not a S5, but do have a S3. Why not try to print whithout using the material station, just in order to see where the problem is. The material station may signal, -"I cannot feed" for some reason. I'll assume this will give an indication where the failure is. Thanks Torgeir

This might be support.. Thanks Torgeir

Hi André, Good test, -printing without using the heat bed -in order to sort out of a such a problem.. Sure, the power supply always takes the heavy load, and it's the problem in (80-95)% of ~all kind of electronics failures, -cause they are very often under dimensioned! As usual, good luck. Best regard Torgeir

Great, lets the fun begin.. Torgeir

Hi, You might have an issue with the power fluctuating! It might be due to your power connector feeding system, or due to some component (located at the main PCB or external component connected to this PCB) drawing to much current intermittent. An intermittent power drop will cause the processor to restart.. Easiest -is to try another power supply.. Since this occur also cause loss of 5 VDC, -the main power for the processor. But might also be sign of a failing component taking down the 5 V DC power converter for the second time.. There might be a sign of an overheat on another component, did you check? Thanks Torgeir

Oh.. Here is the sliced file, for "Ender 3 Pro": But don't know if you can use it on an Ender 3.. CE3PRO_C480_CajaSlide.gcode

Hi @rodcoronadoh, Just loaded up your model with Cura 4.8.0., but still don't see your printer. So I just set the printer to "Ender 3 pro" that I've got installed. There was no issues at all, selected standard quality and skirt. Here's your model: I'll think you have an issue with your slicer/pc-brand.. ? Good luck Torgeir

Hi @rodcoronadoh, I agree with what Greg and Kmanstudios are saying here - it is certainly possible to 3D print this object. However, when you shared your print project, I'll guess you exported the file -so we just got the 3MF file without the printer "setting data" for Cura to use when slicing. To save this file, you'll need to use "save project" in the file pull down menu. So when we open this file in Cura, we'll see your printer "installed" in our "version" of Cura, if this version can read the the current 3MF format (as newer versions cannot read some older versions). This is a very good way to save all data for your print object (I use this for all my drawing/3D print object). There is quite a number of versions made by the Cura team, so there been lots of development in just a few years and some of them behave different.. When I open a stl file in Cura, I'll always start with a standard profile. For an Ultimaker UM2, there is four standard profiles to choose from; "Draft", "Normal", "Fine" and "Extra Fine". (Standard nozzle is also 0.4 mm) So I "loaded" Cura 4.7.1 with your file "CE3_Caja.3mf": (You have a Creality Ender 3 printer, curas start ID before your file name). Here is what is looks like: Here is the sliced object. Here is six different wall thickness and one is a little thicker than a nozzle width. At this place (Lo left side) there is some drawing issue from Fusion 360 as Greg noted. Here is the outside of this place, the wall is offset into the wall that looks like a rectangle: As the wall consist of different wall thickness, I'll change to a smaller nozzle, swapped to 0.25 mm and reduced initial layer to 0.2 mm: This is what's looked like in "preview" from slicing mode. This is how it is looking when open the gcode file in the same slicer (Cura 4.7.1) Here is the "very good" slicer I'll use to view (mostly all) gcode files with, Cura 2.7.0 (when using UM2E+). So, I've a water test -to make sure this "gcode file" will print good, so made a preview in S3D here: This look very nice, and now I'm sure it will print very nice.. 🙂 Here is the projekt file I've made for UM2 of your file: UM2EWO_CE3_Caja_C471.3mf Here is the gcode file, also made for UM2: UM2EWO_CE3_Caja_C471.gcode The only change I made to the "normal" profile was: 1) Change of nozzle size from 0.4 mm to 0.25 mm. (smaller nozzle -it's easy to see the problem, but printing time go up). 2) Changed the "Initial Layer Height" from 0.3 mm to 0.2 mm (Due to use of smaller nozzle). 3) Changed "Combing" from; "All" to "Within Infill" (to avoid travel lines inside body). 4) Changed "Build plate Adhesion" from "Brim" to "Skirt" (Brim is hard to remove so I'll normally use "Skirt" here). (However you might find it better to use brim to keep the model stick to the bed.) Hope this helps a little. Thanks Torgeir

No problem, I've two laptop and two desk top with Win7 for the same reason.. In the aviation, programs are certified to run on Win7 (XP, or even DOS) using a "certified type" of laptop.. (so I've got two of them). A numbers of programs ask for a new license if you upgrade to Win 10. So sure I'll know this issue. Because of all these "motherboard / BIOS" issues, I started using the "pro" version of the motherboard that worked much better and did not have all this weird behavior we often came across then. Did you notice how different the Dremel version is installed.. I'm going to install this version on one of those Win7 desktop to see. Will let you know. (Working on some other issue for the time being.) Torgeir.

Hi @flea77, I've had to think a little about this. All seems to be good, -but there is one very different issue -Windows 7. When I'm thinking back, I'll almost got a problem with every update, either Cura crashed or Windows did... I've often had to remove any sign of the old Cura version, before I could try to install the newer version issued. I was very skeptical about replacing Win7, -however after being using Win10 for one and half yr I'll say this is the best version I've ever had of Windows.. I now have about 15 versions of Cura, including the Dremel version installed on this desktop. I can start any of them together, -if I want -without any issue. In my eyes, Windows 10 is now a "true" multitasking op system. Your desk top PC with 16 Gb ram and a SSD of 512 Gb., -this should be a blast -for this issue... Good luck Torgeir

This last picture makes me wonder, could this heat shrink tube be used as an insulator, in order to avoid any short short between the heat block (no 2 - the right) and the shield... It might be the heat block that's made this damage to the shrink tube. This ruin the measuring.. The right nozzle go far down in the housing and this must be the real reason for this tube/insulation damage... Maybe a new lesson for us, -and sure me.. I'm curious to see if this is the cause of your problem.. Awaiting.. Torgeir