Torgeir

Hi @Speckles, Hmm, maybe the Z end stop screw (installed on the heat bed at the right side of the Z axe screw) is out of adjustment after removal of the magnetic build plate somehow? If you lift up the bed, you should see this screw (under the bed, on the right side of the rotating Z axe) going through the bed about sticking about 15 mm down under the bed. This screw will hit the Z stop switch (located under the printer) and is actually making the low limit of the Z axis. When you go to the maintenance menu and want to move the bed up, the bed will first move toward the stop in order to "synchronize" the bed to the Z axis start position (the low limit), -then it's ready to be moved up. So if the stop switch is missing it will hit the "hard bottom" and make lots of noise.. I'll think this is what happen. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @Balshaj, Welcome in here! First question, if you move the switch handle by hand, -does it go to both position. Can nozzle 2 can stay in fully up and down position? If the first question is answered No, the nozzle lift mechanism has failed. (This is a known issue.) If the first question is yes, you'll need to re calibrate the nozzle switching procedure. (Second question, -does not the automatic switch procedure go as it should?) Re calibration of this switching "might" sometimes be a little tricky, but when you got it right it's really working well. Let's see how this go. Good luck Thanks Torgeir

Hi @r_moeller, I've never used red PVA, however if the PVA is melted stuck inside the tube, you may need to disassemble the core. It might be possible to separate the "cooling cylinder" from the brass heating block without damaging the fragile tube connected to the nozzle/heat block. If this can be done safely, it may be possible to boil the PVA out of the tube as it will be dissolved easily in hot water. However, look through this video before starting disassembling the core. Someone else might have additional information about this problem. Only the unit disconnected from the nozzle/heat block is to be boiled, the cooling radiator and tube. See this video for more info about details to do this, here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ln_tMz8Dwd0 Have a look at this video from: https://www.thegr5store.com @gr5, is a member and a moderator for this Community and I'm sure he might chime in here for further assistance if you'll need so.. Good luck Thanks Torgeir

Hi @Speckles, The screw used here is: 4 each 3 mm (diameter) X 8 mm (length) countersunk hex type (may also use Philips type). The nut to be used: 4 each 3mm with nylon lock type. I'm using SS (stainless steel) here.. The link to the assembly manual is here: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2/blob/master/um2 assembly manual V1.1 _english.pdf Thanks Torgeir

Hi @flyntm, as it starts printing "normal" but soon loose feeding of filament flow, I would check that the front fan is working properly. If this fan does not work properly (due to rest of filaments strings blocking the fan or broken electrical connection), the cold end of the nozzle will be to hot and make the filament stuck in the upper part of the of the head.. As you just have had all this filaments build up inside the head, it might be wise to check for this issue. If this dose not work, you might check the feeder unit for proper assembly of the pressure wheel arrangement. However, issues with the front cooling fan not working due to blocked fan have been reported in here several times. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @ansonl, This connector made by Molex. I bought those kind of connector from RS-Components, besides selling all kind of electronics they are also a Ultimaker dealer.. There is only crimping pins made for this connector, so You'll also need an SN series crimping tool. The RS Part numbers are: 2 pole connector: 296-4956 Crimping pin......: 467-598 Crimping tool.....: SN-01BM (or equivalent). I just made a picture of those parts. And a link to this connector (RS-components): https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/wire-housings-plugs/2964934/?relevancy-data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searchHistory={"enabled"%3Atrue} Good luck. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @Umo_Alex, Yes, this is the one I'm using.. By the way, mostly all of this stuff is made in China.. Torgeir

Hi @skint, I'd never seen such an arrangement for the temp sensor in an UM-2. I'll guess this is kind of "hack", -in order to avoid open the whole printer in order to change the PT-100 temp sensor. You have to order a new original PT-100 sensor for the UM-2, this as the sensor come as a complete unit with wiring directly connected to the sensor and a connector in the other end -to be installed into the main PCB (located under the printer). Did you managed to remove the old PT-100 capsule. (PS., there is a kind of metal filter seen on one of the cooling fan, never seen this as well -would not this reduce the airflow for cooling the "printing object"?) Anyway, good luck in changing the temperature sensor.. Thanks Torgeir

Hi there, Sure, did not think about the locking tabs and sure agree about the orientation for the strength issue. However, if you go for the nylon -you can print with the flat part down, but the print temperature is important here. Actually I made a bearing in nylon for our dishwasher's upper water spreader (propeller), as the old one cracked after 33 years of use! When I made the first one, I'd selected to lo temperature (235 deg. C.). At this temperature the tabs snapped easily off, they was not properly bounded to the main body. So I experimented a little and found 255 deg. C. to be the selection for me, -I could not break off the tabs -no way! This one have been in operation for almost two years now, with no issue, hot water here is 75 deg. C.! Sure you'll need to cover up your printer to keep the temperature as close to the "bed" as possible. I was able to get 47 deg. C. inside the printer with bed at 70 deg C. This was an UM2E+ printer. (Also used the shield draft function in Cura.) Nylon might make some stringing, but can be controlled with the right retraction setting.. Anyway, whatever method you're using -good luck. Regards Torgeir

Hi @Benjamin4456, Welcome in here. Would not it be better to orient the object with the flat part toward the bed, like this. CE3PRO_321692661_CE3PRO_BoltHoleCoverClipv3_petg_ex.3mf Thanks Torgeir

Great. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @Umo_Alex, Use Google and search with this text: "dell D2950P-01". You should have better luck.. Thanks Regard Torgeir

Hi there. The max size is 32GB, this is the limit for all types of SD cards on Arduino. Arduino only supports SD and SDHC (max 32 GB). Cards that's larger than 32GB are of type "SDXC" and are not supported by the Arduino libraries as far as I'll know. I've used 32 GB since 2016 with no issue, -and I'll never erase any files from this SD and sure it'll take some time to fill it up!.. Just counter rotate when (on Ultimaker printers for sure) looking for the last installed file -and it is the first -easy. There is no issue using a flash memory this way, well except for dust (maybe) at the contacts. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @scurrscurr, Yes, you're right - but this is the normal max (215mm) when using a single nozzle either left or right (alone). If you want to use the full X span (233 mm), you'll need to use both nozzles using two AA nozzle here -kind of unpractical for this print.. As you printer can print a "little" wider, -as you wanted, you actually adjust the settings for both axis 3 mm wider! The distance will be increase on the RIGHT side for the X axe and toward the front for the Y axe. This is because both end (stop) switches is located in the inner left corner for an UM3 (same as UM2 series of printers). So you need to check that there is physically enough space to extend both axes those extra 3 mm, without hitting anything due to this increased setting. After this printing, you must restore to the original setting! This is normally not something we use to do, however it's a lot better than "rebuilding the printer" for just this job. Good luck Torgeir

Hi Folks, When I've look into this -I'll just wonder.. You just don't throw an Ultimaker UM2+ into the bin, -because you do not want to invest -say say some 90Euro.. Also, -all the sign you've mentioned in here are pointing to a FAULTY power supply! The power supply "is" the hardest "working" device in your printer and they can and will fail at some age. In fact about 85% (some say more), of any fault of electronic devices are found in the power supply region... I did a quick search for this power supply and found that the Digi-key have more then 400 each in stock! Have a look here: https://www.findchips.com/search/GST220A24-R7B?&gclid=Cj0KCQjw6-SDBhCMARIsAGbI7UgEDcSYBjYBTVGaFqx369ojFm5Q1-A2NrAWE9-GqvngvXvJgByRmf0aAqGLEALw_wcB In here is a number of suppliers of this power supply. By the way, here is the power supply I'm using on my UM2E+: Look at Dell AC/DC power supply, output 24 VDC and 12.3 Amp (max). https://www.allpoweradaptor.com/dell-ac-adapter-24v-123a-4p-p14v-c14-new-p-3474.html?zenid=sklduagcs13gjjq0fa6oneg335 Anyway, your choice. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @CondorDave, Been a little occupied lately.. I've imported your F360 file, found that it's consisted of 3 parts. There is a function in F360 "join parts", this makes your model "water tight" a solid joined model. Maybe this was a problem for the conversion to stl format.? Cant tell, but for sure I've never had any problem like this with F360. (For this conversion I've used the setting medium density of triangles.) As you may know, last version of F360 had some errors -just to be mentioned. The latest version is just issued. Here is a picture of you file converted by your PC together with the one converted by my PC that's sliced in Cura 4.8 Here's the project file made for UMS3, but you can easily copy the stl part to your printer. UMS3_960380829_LegBracket1v20v3.3mf Thanks Torgeir

Hi @CondorDave, Welcome in here. It appear that there is something missing in your Fusion360 file. All of my slicers show this missing area.. So a copy of your file (from Fusion 360) will be handy. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @guna, If the front fan is not working properly, heat will climb upward and heat up the upper "cold" side of the extruder. This lead to that the filament start softening here and will soon be stuck. The feeder wheel will then grind into the filament and soon spinning free. The forward cooling fan is there just to prevent this to happen and keeping the upper part "cold". The fan may be blocked by collected "stringing" material into the fan blades. But can also occur due to an open wire in the two feeding wires for this fan, but if this happen the fan would normally not rotate at all. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @sproutdesign, You mentioned that the filament cracked when trying to pull it out, -so maybe your filament have attracted to "much" water from the air (some high humidity air)? In such case -PLA will/can be brittle. Also this can force melted filament to go upward into the "cold part" of the extruder. The filament might be kind of glued stuck and may lead to grinding the filament at the feeder wheel. This happen when water affected filament arrive the heat block and the pressure inside the heat block violently rice.. When the nozzle is at the first layers, little happen at the nozzle, but on the top the melted plastic and water vapor will try to escape this way. You might remove the bowden tube and the locking clip -then use a thin pointed pliers to remove the remaining filament. Remember to heath up the block before try to removing the filament.. Have a look at this tread: Thanks Torgeir

Hi @Carbon, We talked about the "coupler" that are inside the extruder of the UM2 family printers. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @bassamanator, Well, this also looks like it could be an issue with your filament. If the filament has attracted water, it can look pretty much like this. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @friedl_basson, Edit: I'll add a little more information to better understanding of the problem, for people in general. I'll think that as the increased feed rate fixed the problem the feeder can be considered OK. Aha, you're using TGE nozzle, is this the steel one? If it is, be aware that this nozzle have less heat transfer properties, so you might print slower in order to avoid under extrusion. Some people use to increase the temperature some, but this can sometimes lead to a problem as the density might change during printing. (Because the temperature will increase when the speed decrease and vice versa.) So if you're using TGE nozzle with PLA it will suffer as this nozzle cannot heat fast enough. (If, we expect to print with same speed as we used with the original the brass type of nozzle.) For changing the TFM coupler, I'll understand your fear here, as I've never seen any good procedure for tightening the nut that's "compressing" the coupler. However, if it is too low torque it will start leaking filament -and if it is torqued to much the coupler contact area (toward the heath block) will form up as an elephant foot -that we know all about. 😏 For this reason, the part of the coupler that meets the upper flange of the heath block is rounded off and this allow for some little expansion. This is actually the reason for the little ring we'll see after using the "atomic Bob's" method when cleaning the nozzle. When I'm tightening this nut, I'll check that when the aluminum spacer just beginning to have contact then I'll tighten by turning the nut about 15-20 degrees. It should not be to tight but also not to loose.. After this, I put a marker line from the nut to the bottom aluminum cooling plate using a (black) permanent felt pen. This is a marker to have for you to inspect that it's staying in place or if you need to readjust.. (You need to check that there is no leakage, also note that fast printing will increase pressure inside the heat block.) It is also wise to check your new coupler for proper flatness 90 degrees, it should match well. Well, I'll never had any leakage from my nozzle using this method. Good luck Torgeir

@GregValiant, aha.. Ough.. Did not catch that one.. 🙃 Well- So I opened it in S3D and see the problem with the slightly sloped wall on the right side of the "box opening". From where the slope starting, Cura start infilling (100 %) caused by the increased distance in between outer and inner wall. An adjustment of the wall width/height and infill type may/will fix this problem. The Arc Welder don't do any good for this model as you cannot use the viewer in Cura to analysis and modify the setting as it is supposed to do. So -as Greg says, just turn it off and only use it for curved modelling in "experimental" mode (then turn it off again 🙂). You can force Cura to put the Z seam inside one of the corner, this work well for me. I've also see that Cura making travel close to inside wall, -so make Cura travel inside wall and always check the result in the viewer. This is an excellent tool and a must for us to use because we want to verify that the result is as we expect before we start printing. Anyway, good luck and happy 3D printing. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @friedl_basson, As you have printed for some time with TPE and maybe at some higher print temperature? Then some under extrusion started. I would check that the feeder is function properly, then that the hot end cooling fan is working and finally the insulation coupler (TFM). If one of those three items fails it will always led to under extrusion of some sort. Good luck Torgeir