Torgeir

Well, this depend a little. You can try to print using "spiralize mode" (single wall), but then you will not have a full covered top (about max 95 deg). Using this simply leave a small hole in the hi point. To print it fully closed, you will need to use a gradually thicker wall as you approaching the top. If you need it to "be/look" nice at the inner wall as well you'll need support. But it will be better if you have a dual nozzle system and using PVA or "break away" as support. The way you design you "dome" and how it's size matching nozzle width also count in order to improve here. You'll need to try and tune your setting / material type for best result here. Good luck Torgeir

Hi @ultimaker_user, "use adaptive layers" is not set by default, you need to select it yourself. Go to "preferences", then select settings and then select; "check all". Close preferences. Next, select "printer settings" go to "experimental" and select; "use adaptive layers". That's all. Thanks Torgeir

For me, this sparkling effect of the wings remains me about the dragonfly .. Indeed an interesting creation. Looking forward to see this one finished. Torgeir

Hi there. Maybe this is something that can help a little here.. See this "program" by Jack Minardi. https://github.com/jminardi/mecode This software was developed by the Lewis Lab at Harvard University. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @Jim8163, as you did not tell us what kind of op system you use, Windows, Apple or perhaps Linux? This and the version of the one you're using. Could be a number of things preventing this to work. However, there might be one not so known.. Did you renew your Fusion 360? If not, -you would not be able to send any stl file to your printer -but you might still be able to make drawings.. Thanks Torgeir

Greg is really quick, as usual. I see exactly this too .. No problem.. 🤔

Carlok said: Tweaking the Z-axis is simple to implement in the printer software, but it's fixing a symptom rather than the real problem. ------------------------- This can not be said in any better way and should be an advice to so many service agencies that make "immediate" improvements .. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @TheLoki, I uploaded your stl file and sliced it for my UM2E+. The only printer I have that can -"hardly" print that object with. So, had to deselect brim/skirt - set to none. I sliced it with Archcne beta, standard profile (Normal 0.15) increased to 0.2 height.. Also used support with support blocker inside cause cura like to support inside, -no combing -but used retraction. Layer one is all completed. Here is how it looks. Good luck Thanks Torgeir

Well, I cannot see that T0 is active.. Is it really selected? If you attach your project file here, it will be a lot easier for any of us to investigate in order to help.. (Use save project file). Thanks Torgeir.

Hi there, Excuse me, but is not T0 core 1, T1 core 2 and T2 the heat bed? (The digital world and hexadecimal numbers.) Looks like core 1 (T0) is missing here.. Sure sometimes I'll got confused for sure.. Torgeir

Hi Folks, This relay only serve as a power switch for the 24 VDC. As gr5 said, it might be used for external fire/smoke detectors for disabling power to the heaters. Sorry for the noise. Torgeir I'll say this approach might be a risky thing to do by solving the problem "permanently" this way, cause this relay actually is a safety device, -hence cutting power to heat bed and heat block if one of the temp sensors fails.. This relay is a high priority element in our UM2 printers that "turn off" the high current to items (all heaters and stepper motors) inside the printer. Just to be mentioned. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @scurrscurr, PS. Just a note, I saw that both "X and Y setting" for your printer actually was set to 215 mm. Default for the UM3 is; X=233 mm and Y=215 mm. We would normally never adjust this settings. So after printing this "special" object, -it would be wise to adjust those setting to default again. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @robson, I'd just thought about the same as @nallath, -but he was to fast.. 🙂 However, I would also mention those two shaft 6 mm for the head included with the bearing. So, I'll say go for it, -as it's the best refreshment you can do for your UM2 (+) perhaps.. Good luck Torgeir

Hi @scurrscurr, Sorry, but I misunderstood the issue here.. I've made a 215 mm and 20 mm high "cylinder" in Fusion 360 and got it into Cura 4.8.0 with an UM3E setup. I can see that you're very close to be able to slice. When I'd scaled down to 99.3 % (0.7% down), I could slice the model. This is very little, so in "theory" it should be possible.. First thing to do; 1) Select Brim/Skirt to "none" 2) Deselect print core 2 You will now see the "max print area" using core no1. If you go to "setting printers" then to "manage printer", you'll now see "Ultimaker 3 Extended" and under here press "Machine settings". Here you will see: X (width) = 233 mm and Y(dept) = 215 mm. If you increase those two values by 3 mm each, Cura will slice your object. HOWEVER, I do not know if there is enough safe overrun to do this, so this has to be answered by someone in Ultimaker.. Edit: Both end/stop switches may be a little adjusted in order to add slightly more space.. However, this require new calibration of "core switch" setting and bed clearance.. Please do not try to print like this before all this is checked. Here is a picture of the simple model I've made for checking this. Good Luck Thanks Torgeir

Hi @scurrscurr, You cannot print this object at this size with a single nozzle, the with of the bed is approx 255 mm. If you use both nozzle (AA type), you "might" be able, but it looks to be to big.. Thanks Torgeir

Es war eine Schande, aber kümmern Sie sich um die Kochplatte, Sie werden sie wahrscheinlich reparieren lassen. Der Sensor selbst existiert und ist nicht schwer zu bekommen. Viel Glück Torgeir

Nein, ich weiß nichts über sie, habe aber nur bei Google nachgefragt, ob sie Ultimaker-Drucker verkaufen. Ich komme aus Norwegen, ganz oben im Norden. Es ist tatsächlich möglich, Drähte (flexibler Durchmesser 0,4 mm) direkt auf jeder Seite des Sensors (PT100) und an jedem der Anschlüsse auf der Heizplatte zu löten. Wenn der Fehler auf der Seite des Heizelements gewesen wäre, wäre eine vollständige Reparatur problematisch gewesen. Schöne Grüße Torgeir

Hallo Falco, Dies ist ein Fehler, der "häufig" am Kochfeld auftritt. Es ist die Verbindung zum Temperatursensor, die regelmäßig ausfällt. Dies können die Lötpunkte am Sensor oder das Löten zwischen dem Kontakt und der Kupferfolie sein. Wir haben an beiden Stellen Fehler gesehen. Da Sie die Steckverbinder bereits überprüft haben, ist es möglicherweise an der Zeit, das Löten am Sensor selbst zu überprüfen. Hier ist ein Bild des Sensors (PT100) am Kochfeld. Wie Sie sehen können, besteht zwischen dem Sensor und den Anschlüssen ein sehr kurzer Abstand. Aber lassen Sie uns den Fehler überprüfen .. Mit besten Empfehlungen Torgeir

Hi Greg, Well, to be sure I've been playing a lot with "Alpha" and seeing all the changes done to "Beta" -just tell me a story.. Ofc., it is still an experimental slicer, but with a "huge" potential. Torgeir

Thank you, this is good news.. Way to go Cura team. Torgeir

The chip for measuring the capacity is; U3 P/N: FDC1004DSCT. The chip U8 (protection diodes) also has to be changed and P/N is; PUSB3FR4. Thanks Torgeir

Hi Jeff, I've been looking into the wiring diagram for this circuit and since this heater element is driven by a NMOS p-ch transistor, both of this wires will be positive when no power is feed to the heat element. When the transistor is switched to on (for heating), the defined negative pin goes to ground. This will continue in a cycle pattern according to heat demand. I'll think ultimaker is using the "bang - bang" mode with a fixed frequency and timed on/off cycle (for reducing EMF noise). Anyway, it looks like your "capacitive electronic chip" is most likely fried by the 24 VDC. Max input here is +3.3VDC! Way to go.. 🙂 Thanks Torgeir

Hi John, I'll think as Geert, -try using mold and epoxy resin. 🙂 Epoxy is a very good insulator, but will suffer if heat is to high (but normally a bit over 100 deg. C). There's plenty of brands, so if you can find one with increased heat properties it may fill your needs. You can also mix in the color you'd like.. (But check for type). Torgeir

Hi @MrPla, I'll think that the "capacitive sensor" is not connected to the "sensor electronics". Check that the two wires red and withe is properly connected to the "capasitive sensor" pins. Here is a picture of the open cover in front of the head: Here you see the two wires going to the "capacitive sensor", check that the wires is properly attached. Normally you can see if they are open, sometimes not that easy. By the way, -it is written a lot about this issue herein.. Use google. Thanks Torgeir

Hi Jeff, great to hear that this printer is up running again. Way to go. Torgeir