Torgeir

Hmm., I've thought you was testing to see that all was Ok. ? The limit switches was just a part of check before startup. So you've changed the PCB, tested it and started a new print? I do not think that your printer has stopped, -has anything with the limit switches to do. After a setup, you need to test your printer with a known good "gcode file" for your printer. This is an important thing to do in order to verify that your printer is OK., -because a faulty "print file" may cause your printer to stop.. What kind of object did you try to print? Torgeir

Yes, -just to see they made a click when they are activated. Do you have the assembly manual for UM2? All of this information is in here.. It is here: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2/blob/master/um2 assembly manual V1.1 _english.pdf You may leave the head in the forward middle position, so when you "arrive" the test of the X and Y steppers, they will move from here to the home position in the inner left corner. Lets see how this go. Torgeir

Hi. As you have a genuine UM2+, so I would try to reset the printer as the "adjustable" variables is kept in a flash ram. This will renew "important" parameters for the firmware and It's worth a try.. So lets see then.. Torgeir

Hi @tojiero, The firmware is normally preinstalled on a new PCB. First thing, make sure that both two safety links are in place, if they are missing there will be no 24 VDC to the heaters and all the stepper motors. The heat bed heater and temp sensor must be properly connected and the same is to be checked for the heat block inside the "print head". Next, is the steppers and the related stop switch. make sure that the stop switch is activated by the shafts for the "print head" and by the "long screw" on the heat bed for the Z shaft. Make sure, that all connectors is in the right place, if not sure -do another check! Pay attention to the two connectors goinng to the controller, EXP1 and EXP2. Also the three fans inside the head, the single little one is cooling the hot end is running using 5 VDC and the two for cooling our print object is running (in parallel) using 12 VDC. The firmware will take you through the first startup procedure/settings, so it should go smoothly normally. Worst thing is if one of the steppers go in the wrong direction, -I.E. direction from home switches.. If, hit the off switch! Lets see hows going. Good Luck Torgeir

Hi @ibnul21, I'll think @robinmdh is right here, as if you do a start sequence all axes are synchronized including the height (Z). So here, -a head homing would have confirmed this I'll think.. Also when you move the switches the start position will slightly change. As the bed may slowly slide down, it tend to rest on the Z switch and signal down limit is active. So this switch signal stepper to move up a bit and then move down again to synchronize the Z axis. You did not confirm that the shafts are lubricated, -this is the most common reason for making stepper noise. There's two parallel "Z axis" sliding shafts, need frequent oiling and the stepper Z axe need frequent greasing.. Sure I'd assume you did, -but just wanted to mention this important point again. If you think your head homing point have moved too much, -it's possible to revert the adjustment one by one -using the "home head" function. Also, for checking the "home bed" function, you might lower the bed or lift then lower the bed. Good luck Torgeir

Hi @xiaosong, During time those sliding bearing will be worn (as they are consumables), however this is to much play for a brand new printer. If the sound was a "clicking" type of sound, it would mean a bearing/shaft wear or dimension issue, but here this sound is "kind" of soft.. I'll think that the bearing is not properly attached/seated to the housing itself, -so maybe a damage or "reposition" issue during transport.. I would contact the reseller about this. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @ibnul21, Welcome in here. There is two issues that can make this ratteling noise, but the noise always come from one of the stepper motors. The noise is made as the stepper cant move anymore, like hitting a wall and continue until it is "synchronized".. Happen if the friction is too high or current is too low, in both situations the stepper makes noise. As there is 6 shafts involved during extruder movement around the bed, thous shafts need lubrication to keep friction as lo as possible. This is number one for such problem, -so periodical lubrication of thous shaft's is important. You might have another problem, as this seems to occur when homing before start of movement. In your case, it might be the X home switch that is mounted too close to the hard stop, meaning the stepper have a little too short stoppage distance for deceleration. So the last two or three step is done against the full (hard) stop and making this noise. This might have happened if the switch have become worn, allowing to move further, -or slightly become loose over the time, also allowing the head further (closer to the hard stop). Adjusting this switch a little more "from" the wall it's traveling toward might fix this problem. Note: To me it looks like it is the X stop switch, but might either be the Y switch.. This might be easier to see/observe from above. (If the screws for the micro switch are loose, be careful -do not to over tightening the two small attaching screws.) Good luck Thanks Torgeir

Hi @philippe44, Well, I'm used to adjust the bed often, but sometime less often. The bed is cleaned by using a scrape, a small one normally used to remove paint from windows.. If I'll forgot to do this for too long, my print will start to lift off the bed, because it start crimping at the top and will soon snap off the bed because of poor adhesion. So first thing, make sure you've marked the up side of the bed (I'm using a permanent marker) , clean the bed with a scrape, then wash with "hand warm" soapy water, if you've printed some "nasty" filament you might need to use alcohol/isopropanol as well. After the "bath" of the bed, rinse well with tempered water and dry it. Avoid finger print on the print side.. Next is to do a bed adjustment, remember the (Z) height micro switch and the mechanical parts do wear a little over time and also -might need some lubrication. I'm using a note from an ATM as a space (height) detector. When starting this adjustment, firmware ask you to adjust to approx 1 mm the inner mid position by using the wheel knob. Then to do the same on first outer R/H corner and lastly L/H corner -for both adjustment here using the turn knob under the bed.. Round two is to be done withe the "note from the ATM", the inner mid point with the wheel knob -here just one notch will release the ATM note -if so you made a very good adjustment! Next in same order as above, using the note and the turn knob under the bed. During this adjustment it is easy to push or pull the knob so the adjustment will be in error, so remove your finger from the knob in between adjustment to make sure your adjustment is good. Sometimes I've seen that the 110% first layer feed is to much, so I'll adjust it to 100% to make a clean and even first layer. This might not be an issue for anyone, but might be something for some.. Good luck Thanks Torgeir

You may also check the setting for the material in the printer menu, select the type of material, then roll down and select "customize", here you can check and adjust the filament and bed temperature in deg. Celsius for the type of material selected. Edit: Maybe you live in US and using deg. F., then 170 make sense, -but caution here as the UM2+ use deg. Celsius. (Freezing point -a mixture of ice and water is; 0 deg. Celsius and boiling water is 100 deg. Celsius.) Thanks Torgeir

Print bed 170 deg. C.? The normal temp for the bed when using PLA is 60 deg. Celsius.. (If you're using PLA) If the bed is set for to hi temp, it may never reach this setting.. As you've said, might never start heating the nozzle. ..

Hi, This is strange, I've seen into your previous posting that you had a problem with heating the heat bed.. How did you solve this problem then? I'll don't think it is a firmware issue, unless you tried to alter printer setting using gcode.. Have you tried to control the printer using "Pronterface" via USB? Thanks Torgeir

Sure Greg did not think of that one.. 🙂 Come to think that, importing it to F360 and then to the printer might through the model offset.. Maybe you could try to just import the file direct to Cura.. Plenty of possibilities for sure. Torgeir

Aha, think your coordinates for your printer might be wrong then. Check that all the settings for your machine is right. Need to know your type of printer.. Under menu "settings" select "printer" then choose "manage printers". Thanks Torgeir

Hi @RogK. Welcome in here. In Cura, go to the "Preferences" menu, and select "Automatic drop models to the build plate" like this: Thanks Torgeir

Hi @flnielsen, This is strange, sounds like this happen during deceleration from "high" speed when "breaking" to stop. Maybe this is a sign of too low current for acceleration/deceleration of the Z-stepper motor. Actually, this might very well be the issue for the "nozzle height difference error", as the stepper cannot stop at the exact point from time to time.. One may think this is a mechanical issue, but rarely this is the case -those steppers are very solid made. Have this sound been there all since new? Latest update S5 firmware now is 5.8.2 I'll think. A printer reset may sometime fix strange issues, think X/Y cal. will stay and both cores info as well.. Well, I'll think this is an issue for your dealer to solve, unless there is another known quick fix for this issue. Good luck Thanks Torgeir

Hi @Nifty, Welcome in here. You'll find Cura "default" here: Thanks Torgeir

Hi @KaraokeAmerica, I've been a little busy lately.. About the size in Mb for the stl file to be printed by Cura, hmm I'll think I've never seen any max value set, but if you have a PC with the right performance it can be high.. However, I would say that 500 Mb is huge for normal 3D printing.. I've seen your model, but there was no slicing data or printer type in your file, just the object. When you upload a project file, you will see that your default printer change to another printer. I have an UM 2 and S3. Normally, a laptop with an i7 / 3 Ghz is good in general, but for this use to judge -more info is needed, but since this is a laptop I'll know there is some limitations in the graphic area. Often, windows during update, may switch back to "default" OpenGL version -a version previous OpenG2.0. This might still happen (?), -if your chip set and graphic unit is unknown for Windows 10 in this combination. Try to left click on the desktop page in Windows, you should see a possibility to select setting in your graphic adapter. You may also google if there is some known issue with win10 and the graphic unit in your type of laptop. You may try to find a little more about the last upgrade and also about your graphic unit in your laptop. There might be some third party solution for your computer. By the way, I sliced your model with Cura 4.8.0 using the normal profile for UM2E and saved this project file. Here it is: Good luck Torgeir UM2EWO_GlueGunStand_Norm_Profile.3mf

Sure the profiles built into Cura is good and those profiles are the ones Ultimakers printer's are using. So a good start is to select one of those printers and Cura will start up easily.. However, if you've had installed Cura previously, there is "hidden" info about this and if this is not erased Cura will use this information from your previous installation. This is stored in C under the directory users \ (user)name \ AppData and in here you will find a directory named Cura containing sub directories of previous Cura version installed.. Windows10 store "all" application setups/configuration like this, so if you want to have a new clean installation you need to remove or delete this directory, -but it might be wise to save it -in case you'll need them for going back.. (IMO). The issue you mention about a Win update, -can be an issue if you have some hardware combination that's not optimal between the choice of "main board / chip set / memory size / processor and graphic chard selected". Conflict here happens more often than we think.. Lastly, when you save a sliced model in Cura, it will be wise to save it as a project file (3MF) format, as this file will hold your object (stl) and the slicing profile. The normal object file used for the printer do not contain this slicing profile. This project file, is the file people like to see in trying to help(found in the upper left "File" menu under "Save Project". So after using the "Experimental" settings, remember to store this properly so you can benefit of it later if needed, then revert to your normal profile in order to avoid issues like this. -Been there done that! Experimental is experimental.. Good luck Thanks Torgeir

Hmm., I found that it is best to give it a "middle" strength when torquing the belt, I mean not all that high torque on the screws. Try to see if the pulley on the stepper need to go more toward the stepper on the shaft, or outward..

If you look closely to the belt's path, you will see if it is offset. Best if you see that the belt stay in the middle or approx., same position on both pulley.

Just check that both pulleys is located so the belt following a strait path without skewing.. One pulley might come loose somehow and moved slightly on the shaft. If you try to move the long R/H shaft back and fort (along shaft length) there should be just a little play. Else, you might check the pulley on the X stepper shaft that is is aligned with the upper long shaft.. If you touch the belt and you fingers become black of "rubber remains", then this is prob. the problem.

Sorry, but I meant the right side, already corrected..

Hi @kevin-osborn, Just saw you video, as far as I can see/hear -this problem is from the X-stepper right/left on the Right side. Have a look in the right corner and see if there is some black rubber dust collected up. Might remove the cover.. This can happen if a pulley is offset, so the belt is sagging on side of the pulley(s). Good luck Thanks Torgeir

Hi Folks, I've been looking a bit on this issue, and it's true there is an issue with 4.8.0 -but this is for parameter adjustments in experimental mode.. In here the functions working well, -but can also fail in certain combination! Anyway, I opened all of your objects -no problem. I've also had the slicer "hanged up", but as soon as you change a parameter, Cura start a new slicing process. The only way I could make Cura(4.8.0) go into an endless (hang up) loop trying to slice is: Your object is sliced fine with "using adaptive layer" selected, but now, -select "enable coasting" and it will try slicing forever (or should I say "hang up"). Then if you deselect "enable coasting", it will slice your objects. There is so many settings in Cura so best way to start is using known good profiles and work from there. Oh yes, it also worked with the latest Alpha edition of Cura.. Thanks Torgeir

With this performance, I'm sure there was some need for it.. 🤔 Torgeir