Torgeir

Hallo Falko und zpm3atlantis, Sicher, dies hat Elemente des gleichen Problems. Da Ultimaker aufgrund der EMV-Vorschriften gezwungen war, den "Bang-Bang" -Modus zur Steuerung der Heizplatte zu verwenden, führte dies zu einer Verringerung der Druckqualität auf einigen UM2-Druckern zu diesem Zeitpunkt. Das Problem ist, dass "einige" Drucker anfangen, Mikroschritte zu verlieren, aber bei jedem vollen Schritt synchron gehalten werden. Dies hängt sehr mit einem reduzierten Strom zusammen, der auf einen Spannungsabfall in der Stromversorgung zurückzuführen ist! Im "Bang-Bang" -Modus ist der Stromverbrauch aufgrund der "langen Zeit" (5-8 Sekunden) konstant für die Heizplatte. Dies senkt die Spannung unter einen kritischen Wert für die Treiberlogik, die den Schrittmotor steuert, so dass ein Ergebnis davon ein Mikroschritt verfehlt. In Frakos Druck Nummer eins können Sie sehen, dass der Druck am Anfang irgendwie gut ist, aber wenn sich das Gebäude aufbaut, wird es immer schlimmer. Dies geschieht, wenn das Netzteil immer wärmer wird, sodass es mit dem Wärmestau weniger effektiv wird. Hier ist das Endergebnis mehr verpasster Mikroschritt. Um dies zu testen, können Sie das Heizbett ausschalten, PVA-Kleber oder blaues Klebeband verwenden (denken Sie daran, die Platte für die Verwendung des Klebebands anzupassen). Ihr Druck sollte ziemlich viel besser sein. Vielen Dank Betrachten Torgeir

Nun, wenn es sich bereits im PID-Modus befindet, müssen Sie es nicht versuchen, da es dasselbe sein wird. Was jedoch Ihr Druckproblem ist, sieht so aus, als würde es durch den "Bang Bang" -Modus verursacht. -Und es gibt einen Grund dafür. Bitte lassen Sie uns wissen, wie es aussieht. Viel Glück. Vielen Dank Torgeir

Hi plasticman, Did not get that one, -so then some more: Ok., if the red light (Led D10) light up, it mean there is power at the two pins for the heath bed. So there is an open connection in your wiring going to the bed, this as there is no current in the bed to heat it up. 3.4 ohm is fine for your heat bed as you are using 24 VDC power supply. I'm sure you have measured both wires going from the PCB to the Heat bed terminal, right? Also, if you measure the resistance from the two wires at the PCB (this time not connected to PCB) you will read 3.4 ohm, right? If all of the above is right, your failure might be in the "spring clamp" connector, those connectors normally work ok., but can also fail badly.. Make sure this clamping contacts are in good condition, I can see some marking on them, any problem here?.. So check this carefully. If you look at the clamp connectors, it appear not to be very much clamped, are you sure that the cable is on the right side of the clamp hole? Look at the two for the nozzle, they are a little bit into the housing. On the two heat bed connections the should be a bit more into the housing, as this cable is bigger. Have a look at the second nozzle, not in use, try to press one of them and look into the connector hole, then you will see where the cable should go. Edit: You know that, before you insert the wire you have to press down the amber square then the wire and then release the pressure. Now you will have a good connection. Thanks Torgeir

Die PID-Einstellung ist hier: Zum Menü gehen: Erweitert - Einstellungen - Temperaturregelung - Bauplatte Im Buildplate-Untermenü können Sie zu PID wechseln. Diese Änderung ändert keine anderen Einstellungen. Probieren Sie es einfach aus und sehen Sie, Sie können jederzeit zurückkehren, wenn es nicht funktioniert. Grüße Torgeir

Hi plasticman, That's great news. Thanks Regards Torgeir

Hallo Falco, Dies erinnert mich an ein anderes Problem mit dem UM2-Drucker im Allgemeinen. Zunächst denke ich jedoch, dass beide gedruckten Modelle ein Problem haben, da Sie die Tinkergnome-Version der Firmware haben. Haben Sie den PID-Modus für Ihre Heideplatte verwendet? Normalerweise wird als Modus "Bang Bang" verwendet (z. B. Ein- und Ausschalten der Heizplatte bei niedriger Frequenz). Wenn es sich also im „normalen“ Modus befindet, verwenden Sie die PID. Dies kann sich sehr verbessern. Es gibt noch ein anderes Problem, das schwer zu erklären ist. Für mich sieht es so aus, als ob ein oder mehrere kleine Sektoren der Filamentspule spröde sind. (Ich hatte so eine Filamentspule, aber das ist eine andere Geschichte.) Vielen Dank Torgeir

Hi plasticman, So you did repair the connection to the heath board circuit. Why did you change Q1 and Q2 ? Did something happen here? When you try to heath up the heath bed, did the red LED (light emitting diode) light up? This happen when Q1 turns on will make the ground for the bed and the LED. Did you install the safety links, there is two on this board? What firmware version did you install to your new UM2 PCB? Thanks Torgeir

Hmm, Sie haben Err02 gesagt, dies ist der Temperatursensor PT100, der fehlerhaft ist. Überprüfen Sie die beiden anderen Terminals und den PT100, der auf dem Bild zu dem Link zu sehen ist, den ich Ihnen gerade gesendet habe. Sie benötigen eine gute Lupe. (PS. Einige der Befestigungsschrauben am Termomalblock können von den von mir erwähnten abweichen.) Ok viel Glück. Vielen Dank Torgeir

Die beiden Lötpunkte für den Anschlussblock weisen manchmal Mikrorisse auf, die sehr schwer zu erkennen sind. Dies liegt daran, dass der Block mit zwei Schrauben an der Aluminiumheizplatte befestigt wird. Löten Sie diese beiden Kontakte und lösen Sie dann die beiden Schrauben (Mutter auf der anderen Seite). Verwenden Sie das Produkt „Lock Tite“, um zu verhindern, dass sich die Mutter löst. Dadurch bleibt die Mutter an Ort und Stelle und der Block bewegt sich zusammen mit der Heizplatte, ohne dass das Löten reißt. Hier ist ein Link zu einem Bild des Terminals. Vielen Dank Torgeir

Hi Bob, Great. The bed is tricky to have the real temperature when measuring at a "glass" plate. As I've said, the PT100 sensor very accurate, this is why it is used in "almost" all jet engines there is for inlet air temperature for such type of engines. When it comes to the extruder, the heater and PT100 installed into the heat block, we need to notice that the heater is on one side and the PT100 is on the other. There is sometimes some error due to to much play where the PT100 is installed, the hole is to large. So the PT100 do not have a good thermal contact, so will be slow and sensing to lo temperature. To improve this problem, fill the PT probe hole with "copper paste" then install the probe. Use a rag and remove the overfill. When test heating, use a rag as there will be some light leakage of the thinner part of this infill. There will be some light smoke, so increase the temp gradually and vent. All this will evaporate and the probe will have much better thermal response. BTW., this paste stand 1100 deg. C. So no worry here. I'm using this all the time on my printer and it is working very well. Also your probe would not get stuck burnt in the block. Well, I'm using this on the heater as well. When heated up, the temperature should "normally" never differ more than ± 1 deg. Celsius. If it does, perform the above.. Also to note, the firmware have a specification for for the temperature sensors that is installed. Good luck Thanks Torgeir

Hi bobrieg, Welcome in here. If you have an UMO+, you should not have thermocouples, right? Normally this setup is using PT100 a very accurate temperature sensor and do not require any calibration. Please confirm. Thanks Torgeir

Hi Perchik, Welcome in here! The short belt tension method is here: https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360011802500 Here is a procedure for the adjustment of the two 6 mm shafts. https://ultimakernasupport.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/115004168943-Aligning-the-Axes Side note: Adjustment tool (you need two each) for 8 mm to 6 mm shafts to make fixed distance from the 8 mm shaft to the 6 mm shaft. Here is two different tools and there is more of them out there.. Just print two of the one you like and use them to adjust same distance at one side, tighten the pulleys and check that they also fit at the other side without any adjustment on the other side. Do the same for the other axis. (This is based on that the frame of your UM2 is perfect.) 1) https://www.youmagine.com/designs/adjustable-axis-alignment-tool 2) https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1578751 Good luck Thanks Torgeir

Hallo Leute, Ich habe so oft gesehen, dass die für das Heizbett verwendeten Doppelkabel (+ und -) 24 VDC verbrannt werden. Dies tritt häufig am Heizbett-Verbindungsblock oder am Block an der Hauptplatine auf. Ultimaker hat diese Schraubklemmen später in der Produktion ausgetauscht und ich bin mir nicht sicher, ob es einige Blöcke dieser neuen Federspannungsblöcke gibt, die ausgefallen sind. Es gibt jedoch eine Lösung für alles, also lass uns gehen. Diese Klemmenblöcke sind wirklich gut ausgewählt, da sie für bis zu 20 Ampere ausgelegt sind! Was ist also das Problem? Nun, da wir weniger als die Hälfte dieses maximalen Stroms verbrauchen, benötigen wir diese "schweren" Drähte nicht, so dass die ausgewählten Drähte möglicherweise nur etwa 10 Ampere maximal benötigen. Der ausgewählte Draht ist also gut AWG 18 (kann dies nicht bestätigen, sollte es aber zumindest sein), kann 10 Ampere kontinuierlich und intermittierend bis zu 16 Ampere bewältigen. Da diese Blockklemme 20 Ampere verarbeiten kann, ist die Klemmfläche der Kontaktfläche groß - für einen einzelnen AWG 18-Draht. Um die Kontaktfläche zu vergrößern, verwenden wir häufig die Fold-Back-Methode, um die Anzahl der in die Kontaktfläche eingespannten Stränge zu erhöhen. Auf diese Weise wird hier der Kontaktwiderstand verringert und ein Wärmestau vermieden. Hier einige Bilder: Hier sind einige Bilder, wie das geht. Vielen Dank Torgeir

Hi there, Sorry, but I do not think this is caused by temperature variation, the lines is to consistent so it has something with the X/Y axis -stepping error. Actually, it might be the missed micro step problem, the stepper keep synchronized at every "full step", but can have micro step offset. I've never seen as much as this, but it is possible for sure. This problem can be seen on some of the printed object we do, some more than others, depending on object slicing and printer settings. So many things we all know.. This may be caused by the stepper driver circuit and probable issues with this arrangement, -maybe this become an issue when the voltage drop to a critical point? Current will also drop.. However, I've never checked this as I'm using a power supply that deliver 12.3 Amp. 24 VDC. Sure, electronics can surprise.. You can have a look at this tread: Why does my print have tiny zebra stripes? Joined this tread in page 5. In here you can see the kind of modification I’ve made on the main PCB in order to get read of most of the “sebra stripes” that was visible on some printed object. I did this; "shortening of the ROSC (reference oscillator) adjusting resistor" modification, in order to avoid missing steps caused by lack of back EMF. By pulling the ROSC pin to ground, mixed decay is set to be active 100% of the time, for both rising and falling currents, and prevents missed steps. (Allegro datasheet advice) You can try this; just short the two ROSC resistors for X and Y by using a short link bridge across them. (Other link to GND may cause positive feedback, -this is a warning from Allegro factory.) Hmm. -Well, you got something to try.. Good Luck Torgeir

Forgot this one, I'll think the later firmware use "bang-bang" mode not PID, cause PID created lots of harmonics radiation not allowed for devices like this. Also PID can make distortion to sensors in it's own system, right, -it disturb itself.. Just like an audio amplifier starting to squeak if the mic come to close to the speaker.. I.E. The high current pulses from the heat bed wires act as an antenna radiating high energy harmonics all around the printer. Well, -can happen just like that, possible, -but just theory.. The electronic things can really make gray hair sometimes. 😞 Thanks Torgeir

Hi nighthowlers, Great finding.. 🙂 Also bear in mind that the power supply is an important one in here, this as you reduced the hard load of power supply might have an impact. But just go on, you're close I'm sure. Way to go. Torgeir.

One thing that I did not mention, due to this wobbling the extruder will move a little back and forth in the X-axis. Thanks Torgeir.

Hi nighthowlers, You have some problems here. First, forget about checking the heat bed common ground theory. (Both, the heater and the PT100 sensor have separated ground, so a construction like that would give massive error (not 50 deg. C). In such an error the printer would stop instantly (hi priority issue).) This is an important finding: Second New Hypothesis: While re-lubing the axis I noticed that when I move the head by head in X-axis, instead of making a nice consistent zeeeeeeee sounds, it makes, zeee000zeeee0000zeeee000. Visual inspection shows that the back right X-pulley has a very slight runout. I guess this is because it is not centered on the 8mm rod? I've built my UM2 and have a plastic bag full of pulleys, that is not up to good standard, as they have some wobble. In your case, you may try to shim up the pulley using "shim" of brass. Usually they are oval at one side, for testing you may use paper and then tighten the set screw. Now a question; did you rice the nozzle temperature when you made the "circular tower" flow "speed" test? IMO. I think your model look better at the lo part of the model, however this latter one look much better than the first model. During normal printing, how much does the nozzle temperature fluctuate up and down? (should be ±1 deg. C) Edit: Why is your first model white at the bottom or top? What do you think? Thanks Torgeir

Aha, forgot -you have an UM2+ I've an UM2 with the old feeder.. Thanks.

Thanks for this explanation. I wanted to do the same and also got a 1.75 mm nozzle, but did not think about the upper space in the feeder. I'm also using the original feeder, but modified it with belt gear 1:2 and I have also installed a release handle. I can put the filament in to start position, or feed it all the way to the extruder by hand. 🙂

Hi Blizz, I'm sorry i missed this, but what is this kit like? I've removed the kit since then, not too happy about it, which is a shame. On my UM2 the strand bends in the feeder and is just pushed in there. Do you have a picture of this? Thanks Torgeir.

This is a real improvement. Great! Thanks Torgeir.

Hi 3D_Dragoon, Welcome in here. Do not worry about this, as this is about an UM2+ that is converted from using 2.85 mm filament to 1.75 mm filament. On your new UM S5 you will be using 2.85 mm filaments, so no such change is needed for you. It is possible to make change in firmware, the program that is controlling the microprocesor. It is possible to change a number parameter that is stored in flash memory. By the way, this is not things to be changed often, normally only when we do some sort of modification, or hack as some name it.. 🙂 Good luck. Thanks Torgeir

This is very interesting, what kind of printer is this? Using blue tape only, -in order to prevent heat from the bed destroying the first bridge level. Great demonstration of using bridging. Thanks Torgeir.

Hi Flemming, Here is the stl file. I've just named it : UM3_BB_Lock.stl Regards Torgeir.