Torgeir

Hi ReallyBadDancer, You have several different problems for sure. So lets start with the first one you've mentioned, the bed warping and bad overhang. Your object have smaller footprint than the top part, this is the overhang in this issue, right? The problem here is the fact that the overhang start directly from the heat bed. Heat from the close by bed plus nozzle is to much so plastic do not cool down and tend to creep down, this normally happen in this situation. So cure for this is; either to print with blue tape (not using heat bed) or use a skirt that have a little distance from your object (say (1-1.5)mm) that is wide enough to shield the heat away from the overhang. Make sure that this skirt is wide enough say 20 lines or so.. Sometimes this is just not enough, so then to the blue tape. Now to your other problem that's started with some loose pulleys. The important thing to notice is the way you object is orientated on the bed, where is the front of you object pointing? When we are looking into our printer, the "face" we see of you object is the front. By knowing this, it is easy to see what your problem is. I can say it is not a Z or height issue as this only open up between layers without an offset in the X/Y plane. But only a X/Y offset can create such an error as shown here. I think about a climbing belt on a pulley, this can create such an offset and make strange noise when printing. This can make noise just one way, or both ways. When adjusting/tightening a pulley, it is very important to make sure that the pulley do not slide out of the position along the shaft! Most often it is the short belts pulleys that's come loose, this due to the fact those four (4) pulleys are the ones carrying the highest torque when printing. The important thing here is to make sure that the belts are strait, and that there is no offset differences between the two pulleys going from each stepper motor up to the 8 mm long shafts. First make sure that both X and Y stepper belt have no offset, good light and mirror is tools for this inspection. When such thing have been on for some time, you might see remains from the belts in any of the corner that's tells something. The long belts have to stay absolutely parallel (right above or below the shafts) with each axis (4 by 8mm). If one of the pulleys is offset center of axis, the belt will bend to one of the sides of the pulley when the (6mm) slider approach it. This is the tips I'll hope work for you. However, information about the orientation of the print object when printed will tell a lot about you problem. Thanks Torgeir

Hi dadoblue_2000, I have tested them all, -but the predictability and compatibility with the previous and earlier versions is important to me. I've don't need to "test print" an object, just slice it, inspect it in gcode viewer -if any need for adjustment. Make the adjustment and check again in the gcode viewer, if fine then print. Everything is visible for me in the gcode viewer. This is important when you are in a hurry.. But of course, if Cura 4.5.0 work well for you that's good. Thanks Good luck Torgeir

Hi dadoblue2000, Well, if I had any I would share, but I do not use S3D for slicing, -that was just in the beginning! I'll normally slice everything in Cura because this slicer is primary made for Ultimaker 3D printers. However, if there's any doubt or problems I'll always open the gcode file in S3D to investigate or compare. IMO., use Cura 15.04.5 version, this one always work and often present the best sliced object of any other version in this family! I'll have to say; for my printer UM2 and the printers in the UM2 family. My best advice is; try to use Cura 15.04.5, here you can adjust the most important parameters that matters! Moreover, S3D is much more like those early versions of Cura, except from those special additional thing that is still included in S3D, which I also use together with Cura. There is not that many menus, just three; Basic, advance and expert. All in all very easy, so this one will express teach you and this shows the most important issues/parameters in 3D printing. When it comes to the later versions it is all about the "issues" those small adjustment that is needed to correct for about anything you'd possibly can think of.. Strange things to say, oh yes so true, but when you look at the new generations of printer made for a different kind of customers things makes sense. To round off this, I'll say when I'm printing something that matters, I'm using Cura 15.04.5, Cura 2,3,1 and Cura 2.5.0. The latter one (2.5.0) is always used to do analysis of the gcode file to be used for printing. Remember, -for UM2 family! Here is one example that is one of the most challenging for a printer in our class (or maybe I have to say in any class)! This is the "CTRLVTEST", you find it here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:704409 The printed example you see in here is done with an UM2 standard version. To print this in "high class" mode, you will need a plus model or a standard UM2 upgraded with an Ohlson block using a 0.25 mm nozzle. Here is a picture of the sliced CTRLVTEST done in Cura 15.04.5 and viewed in Cura 2.5.0, Cura 4.6.1 and S3D This is gcode file of CTRLVTEST viewed in Cura 2.5.0 This is gcode file of CTRLVTEST viewed in Cura 4.6.1 This is gcode file of CTRLVTEST viewed in S3D 4.1.2 The gcode viewer in both, Cura 2.5.0 and S3D 4.1.2 both show same quality. My printer will print just this, but not what Cura 4.6.1 come up with. Best advice, enjoy your UM2 type of printer, stay with the well proven slicers for our mono color printer.. 🙂 Thanks Torgeir

Hi Folks, Yes there is a difference between Cura and S3D, Cura use Ultimaker 2 "gcode flavor setting", while S3D use Marlin "gcode flavor setting". S3D have "-some" more parameter to use during slicing.. So it sounds quite different during start and sometimes during printing. I've been using S3D for a some time so noticed this long time ago. 🙂 Thanks Torgeir

Hi Th3RadMan, Try to reduce the "infill overlap" in Cura, this one, is normally set to 10%, however, in some object I'll reduce it to about 3% and this work for me. PS: What you show us here in your print, can be seen using the gcode file viewer in Cura. The important thing to remember is; use the gcode file that you send to your printer (and not the one shown in Cura after slicing). If the gcode viewer in Cura show "something", your printer "normally" will print exactly that! Thanks Torgeir

Hi nighthowlers, You've really investigated deeply into this, -and what a modification. 😀 All this in such a short time, that's impressing! Thanks Best regards Torgeir

Hi dadoblu, The mosfet is not to blame for this problem, they are either open or closed (the resistance when closed is very lo), this problem is mainly caused by a little voltage drop due to the fact that the power supply used originally for UM2 is drained at max power while printing. This is something common for all consumer electronics and the fact is that more than 80 % of all failures here is due to a faulty power supplies! However, in our case it is not a failed power supply, but just a voltage drop that caused "to lo current" to lock micro step properly. So it would be better to have a separated power supply for the four steppers only (but in fact it is just two steppers that's having this problem X and Y!). Try to print with blue tape, to see if your printed object become good. If there is no lines without using heat bed, it is due to heat bed in "bang bang mode". Bang bang mode is basically an on off sequence at very lo rate, we talk about seconds here. The other mode is the PWM (pulse width modulation), here we use a frequency that is not very much higher but just under 10 Hz (cycles) and this frequency is constant! So lets say we use 10 Hz, this mean we have 10 times power input every second to the heat bed. The thing here is that we can vary each of the 10 input length, climbing or decreasing in pulse width. This makes much better control of the heat at the bed. As a bonus of this, -our already overloaded power supply become better an will keep a more steady voltage that may avoid this missed micro step. So if your printing look nice using blue tape and no heat bed, we need to find out if your print become better with if we use PWM control of the heat bed. Using the @tinkergnome firmware will allow you to select both, bang bang or PWM "heat control" of the heat bed. So it might be well worth to try this before anything else or before using an additional power supply. You might have an interest in reading about the Zebra stripes, here? See link in previous post. Ok. Good luck Thanks Torgeir

Ok Greg, I thought this file was yours, -well that's life.

Hi Raymond, Looks great. Yes they are rated 1.7 amps (but we set them to 1.2A or 1200mA in the firmware). Would be very interesting to see how it works. Torgeir

Hi GregValiant, I've been looking at your "cut cone" when using the 3MF file of it with your setup. Well, -the only difference here is the printer used.. During the time since Cura geared up and introduced this "new" format into their slicer, things changed as this format have much more information about your object and your printer. For this reason I'm using a few versions of Cura, even one of the oldest version to compare with. There are previous Cura versions that's makes 3MF files, which makes newer versions of Cura crash if you try loading these "old" 3MF files. This 3MF format is quite new (5-6 yr or something like that), so I'll "guess" there is some developing going on all the time.. For this reason I've tried and compared all the version there is and found my favourites. So I'm using Cura version: 15.04.5, 2.3.1, 2.5.0, 3.6.0 and 4.6.1! Well I'm also using burtoogle's version of Cura @burtoogle. I found that the different versions may slice object differently depending of shape and form etc. Almost forgot your last question, I'll just zoom in from the outside of the model and using the gcode viewer (using the gcode file saved ready to print). There is a few thing you cannot see if you look in the preview mode right after slicing. Thanks Torgeir

Hi again Folks, I've forgot to show how Minimalfort's own file looks in Cura, -also sure agree with GregValiant that this is an X/Y issue.. Still using the best Cura version ever IMO (thanks to Ultimaker and all involved people in this development) Ver:4.6.1 Here is the picture: This "little" correction movement is what's makes the "famous Z seam". Thanks Torgeir

HI Raymond, Welcome in here. Sorry to hear about your mishap. This "new" main board is interesting as it allows to install alternative stepper drivers. I would ask if this upgrade to silent step, will keep the ultimaker's firmware control of the "current regulating" to all the stepper drivers as it should be, -or do you have to adjust stepper current using the small pot-meter that's located at each of the small stepper PCB's? Thanks Torgeir

Hi Folks, I've been using the spiralizer mode since Cura introduced it in their slicer, over time there have been some variants. First, if you like to analyze the gcode file, you need to use the file that's saved to be printed and not using the preview function after slicing your stc file! So, it is important to select the additional file types when installing Cura, normally you would have the default, but you will need to select 3mf and gcode as a minimum IMO. The most important setting I found to be set is: Combing to off. Z-seam alignment to shortest. Seam corner reference to none. Select single wall. Top and Bottom layers to 0. Layer height typically 0.1 mm (or extra fine 0.06 mm) Analyze your gcode file, -that's saved for printing. In here you will see the final result of your extruder, how it move and an indication of amount of filament that's used during travel. This last point is important, cause it will give you an idea of how you printed object will look like. I.E. In spiralizer mode, the extruder shall move steady, without any stop, or stop -then a little back before starting move steady. The "h" mark is often caused by this little "back" movement. I'm using the gcode viewer every time I'll print something new, I do not have make a test print if I'm using the filament brand I'm used to. When checking printing in spiralized mod, I'll move the line bar all the way down, then starting play. Those very first lines to be printed will indicate if this is a true spiralize mode. This is a great tool in Cura. Here is tree pictures from the gcode viewer at this critical start point (Using Cura 4.6.1): Here is the start of the gradually climb in order to do spiraling without stop. Just before next layer. Another one and so on... There is some easy way to improve the h stepping, this is to select from 8 bit to 16 bit stepping. But this is perhaps a bit beyond this thread. Good luck. Thanks Torgeir.

Hi Minimalfort, As I have an UM2 ext, I'd just uploaded the gcode file to Cura ver. 4.6.1. And sure I could see the seem.. Then I loaded into Cura your stl file, and sliced it with my "spiralizer" setting but cannot see any seem there. Here is the file: UM2E_Kegle1_Cura_4_6_1_May_12-20_T.gcode Thanks Torgeir

Hi.. Yes, been using kind of same method, as a 1/2 inch thick "hard foamed" plastic (the withe one..) between the table and printer for a long time. However, as it become compressed over time it has to be renewed, -the kind I'm using. But it is insulate the bulling noise that's amplified when in direct contact with the table. What I'm think about is a kind of "active vibration" system, that's sensing "hi impulse" movements that's make the build plate vibrate, I.E. when doing infill etc. IMO., there is two approaches to solve this, by doing it "almost" in real time or by analysis of the gcode file before printing, in order to adjust speed according to a known speed/movement table before printing -for this printer, or printer type.. Here is an example of a system that can measure vibration in X,Y and Z axes, using an accelerometrer ADXL326 and an Arduino compatible microcomputer, a Teensy 2.0 using an Atmel AVR microprocessor. This is actually the hardware that could be used as a start.. Take care Thanks Torgeir

Hallo Frako, Das sind großartige Informationen. Sie können auch die Originalheizung im Ohlson-Block verwenden. Das mache ich. Ich kann den "Geschwindigkeits- / Durchflusstest" bei 209 ° C mit dieser "alten" 24-W-Heizung problemlos drucken. Ich habe auch mit Nylon bei "254 Grad, C ohne Probleme gedruckt. Aber das Wichtigste hier ist, Kupferpaste zu verwenden, um die Lufttasche im Befestigungsloch sowohl für den PT100-Sensor als auch für die Heizung selbst zu füllen. Wenn Sie Wenn Sie dies tun, müssen Sie sich allmählich erwärmen und die austretende Kupferpaste mit einem Lappen abwischen. Die dünneren Komponenten verdampfen (leichter Rauch). Daher ist eine Entlüftung erforderlich. Kupferpaste kann bis zu 1100 Grad Celsius, Dies ist also kein Problem. Außerdem ist es einfacher, sie bei Bedarf zu entfernen. Vermeiden Sie jedoch, die Drähte zu verbiegen, die beim Entfernen an den Gegenständen austreten. Dies reduziert auch Ihre durchschnittliche elektrische Last. Viel Glück. Grüße Torgeir

Switch of heat bed and use blue tape. (Pls. readjust bed height) Let's see the result then.. Thanks

Hallo Falko, Nachdem ich mir Ihr Modell im 3MF-Format angesehen habe, verstehe ich die Probleme viel besser. Ich kann sagen, dass Ihr Netzteil sehr hart arbeitet, da es mehr oder weniger die ganze Zeit mit maximaler Last arbeitet. Da ABS ohne Heizbett gedruckt werden kann, können verschiedene Arten von Bändern wie Kapton-Klebeband, PET-Klebeband usw. verwendet werden. (Es kann auch verdünnter ABS-Kleber verwendet werden, der jedoch gut haften kann, wenn eine zu dicke Schicht verwendet wird.) Versuchen Sie, ohne Heizbett zu drucken. Verwenden Sie die Düsentemperatur am unteren Ende des empfohlenen Bereichs. Reduzieren Sie die Fahrgeschwindigkeit von 120 auf 60 (mm / s). Dies reduziert die Spannung an Ihrem Netzteil und bestätigt hoffentlich Ihr Problem! Ich habe auch Cura 4.3 hochgeladen, um es mit Cura 4.6 zu vergleichen, und beide zeigen, dass Ihre Probleme dort auftreten, wo die Düse nach „hoher“ Geschwindigkeit oder hoher Geschwindigkeit eintritt. Vielen Dank

Hi Herman, Have a look into this tread: Thanks Torgeir

Ich verstehe die Frage nicht ganz, Aha,. OK Haben Sie hier verschiedene Versionen von Cura verwendet (in diesen beiden Drucken)? Ohne Änderung der Druckereinstellung oder der Hardwareinstallation (als Bondtech) zwischen diesen beiden Ausdrucken? Vielen Dank.

Hi Perchik, There might been a revisions over time, also this web site is changed as well. Maybe @SandervG knows where this document can be found. Thanks Torgeir.

Hallo Falko, Ihr Problem mit der gut sichtbaren Z-Naht ist auf das Problem mit dem fehlenden Schritt zurückzuführen! Dies liegt daran, dass der Extruder an derselben Stelle eine neue Linie startet, da sich der Extruder schnell von der anderen Seite bewegt und beschleunigt / verlangsamt. Dies geschieht, wenn sich der Extruder beim Drucken schnell bewegen kann. In diesem Fall kann der Extruder zu weit hinein oder zu weit heraus drucken. Dies sehen Sie auf Ihrem Druck. Sie haben die Marlin UM2 + -Firmware neu installiert? Ich dachte, Sie würden die Tinker-Version erneut installieren. Wie viele Schritte müssen mit Ihrer Bondtech-Feeder-Einheit verwendet werden? Hier kann auch die Drehzahlrichtung korrigiert werden. Diese Einstellung muss vor dem Kompilieren der Datei aktualisiert werden. "configuration.h". Ich habe hier einige Bilder Ihres Drucks eingefügt, außerdem zwei Bilder Ihres Modells, die mit Cura 2.5 und Cura 3.6 geschnitten wurden, damit Sie sie sehen können. Hier sind zwei Drucke desselben Modells, was ist der Unterschied hier als: in Scheiben geschnitten gebraucht und Status Ihres Druckers? Außerdem gibt es nur eine einzige Wand. Wie viele Linien setzen Sie in Cura? Vielen Dank

So, what version of Cura did you use? Is this gcode file the one on the SD card, -or is it from a "saved file" on the PC? Have never seen Cura doing such an erratic movement outside the printing "box". So if this is a copy from the SD card as @geert_2 assumed, this is probably your problem. This SD card/card adapter have had some issues.. Thanks

Hi DarRAven, Cura do not want show this model due to some references moving the extruder far outside the printer area, this go down and up and start approx where your print fails. In S3D this can be observed. Try to make a new download of the model again, try open the gcode file in Cura and if it open it is Ok. If not do not try printing it. -Are you using Cura for slicing?? Thanks Torgeir

Hi John, Great to hear! What you say here is something I’ve been looking to for a long time. I’ve reduced the extruder weight as much as possible (an UM2) in order to reduce the force during acceleration / deceleration. However, the printer still vibrate.. Can remember, some time ago, that @Daid said some people put the printer upside down in order to have some special print perfect.. Hmm.. Next I’ll thinking to do is to make the anchor fixture for the printer at the level where the main shaft are located. This anchor armature will be into a solid table plate that will absorb lot’s of the head’s impact of vibration. Maybe not very practical thing to have on a desk, but will improve for sure. 🙂 Another thing, @burtoogle asked in here if someone is interested in vibration analysis for 3D printing. (I am.) I’m thinking here, -analysis of a given object to print in order to have best possible print -by have an automatic speed and accelerations at any time of printing (or during slicing?). Well, burtoogle is making “vibration, tracking and spectrum analysis systems” for the aviation, so if there is anyone that can handle this, he can! In this time, take care everyone. Thanks Torgeir