Torgeir

Hi vwguy16, Just some more info; the two black wires is power for the heater, the two gray wires is going to the PT100 temperature sensor. Both, the heater and the temp sensor is not polarity sensitive, as they are floating from ground. When looking into the printer, the two connecting points to the left is for the heat bed and the two to the right is for the PT100 temperature sensor. Good luck Torgeir-

Hi vitalsparks, Have been reading your interesting post and did the same test as you did when reading the temperature inside the nozzle using chromel alumel thermo couple. I did this because it was convenient, as I did a check of the hot end after some 2o hour printing with nylon first time at 256 deg. Celsius. Here is the result from my setup: Set Temp. UM2 Nozzle Temp. UM2 Measured temp ext. instrument. deg. C deg. C deg. C 30 30 31 50 49 50 100 100 100 150 150 151 200 200 200 230 231 231 250 249 249 255 254 254 I was kind of surprised after this good/excellent result, however, this is actually confirming my experience with those sensors. The Platinum PT100 is used "mostly" in the aviation as an absolute temperature reference among a few others. Here is some pictures of my setup and most important values: The hot end with the thermo couple inserted into nozzle tip. The adjusted temp is 100 deg. Celsius. The adjusted temp is 200 deg. Celsius. The adjusted temp is 230 deg. Celsius. The adjusted temp is 250 deg. Celsius. The adjusted temp is 255 deg. Celsius. Why this difference? When I built my printer, I was using copper paste in between the heat shell and the heat block. I've also used copper paste between the PT100 shell and the heat block. As there's a little space (for expansion) between the mounting hole's for the heat shell and the PT100 temp sensor it is a good practice to fill up the space (clearance) with copper pasta. Copper pasta have excellent properties for this use as: Good thermal conductivity (air pocket is a very poor heat conductor). Good electrical conductivity Corrosion resistance Copper paste also prevent corrosion and burning of parts, but you still will need to preheat the nozzle for change or removing hot end from the attachment frame. IF YOU ARE GOING TO USE COPPER PASTE FOR THE FIRST TIME, DO NOT INSTALL THE TWO COOLING FAN SHROUD. WHEN YOU HEAT UP THE NOZZLE FIRST TIME AFTER THIS TREATMENT, THERE WILL BE A LITTLE SMOKE (SO MAKE SURE YOU HAVE VENTED AREA), ALSO THERE MIGHT BE A LITTLE DRIPPING OF EXCESS COPPER PASTE, SO HAVE A COTTON RAG OR PAPER TOWEL FOR KITCHEN USE, WHENREADY TO CLEAN OF THIS EXCESS SPILL. Metal device: Relative Conduction: Copper 394 Silver 418 Aluminum 238 (The cold junction frame attachment and cooling frame) Stainless steel 13 (The nut holding the heat block and housing the TFM coupler). PS. I'm also using copper paste in between the nozzle tread and in between the steel nut tread mounted onto top of heat block. NB; Be careful here to avoid copper paste into the filament area/side.. Note Well.. Just for the record; I'm still using a 24 W heat element, even printing with nylon at 256 deg. C! This is just because my setup is far more efficient, due to much better heat conduction! (To check the calibration of the PT100 sensor, put the sensor into clean water with ice cubes that's need to be stirred to keep this mixture at zero deg. Celsius. Your Ultimaker nozzle temp should read 0 deg, C. (A precision resistor with 100 Ohm should read zero deg. C as well. 0.5% tolerance or better is needed). Do the same with boiling water, will show 100 deg. C here.. ) Maybe this little modification might be something for you, unless you have something else in error. Thanks Regards Torgeir

Hi folks and yellowshark, I just started printing with nylon four weeks ago.. And the one I selected was Taulman "Bridge" Nylon. But, there is one other brand of nylon from Taulman, the only one food approved from Taulman: Nylon 680! The two other in here is not FDA approved. However, if you want to use 680, you have to testify that your printer is compatible to this requirement (FDA)!!! In addition.. Is not this one easy (??) The printing temperature can go to close 260 deg. C? I'll say yes, most of the problem (bacterias) should be gone (the one we knows about) and cannot survive a temperature of 250 deg Celsius.. This is what I'm thinking, but you've always have to make sure, you know.. Nylon is a fantastic kind of plastic, if you need something super strong, this is the material for you... As far as I could see, the Taulman Bridge is very close to the Ultimaker type of nylon, in specification wise, however my UM2 "kind" printed nylon very well.. In spit of giving some surprise on the way, -but this is another story.. 🙂 If you need FDA approved nylon; print with 100% infill, and make sure to have a good fusion temperature set. Look at the product from Taulman, -a great product with "honest" specification. Print with the right fusion temperature, I used 256 deg. C. at the nozzle. No fan, at all -and bed at 75 deg C. The result of this was OUTSTANDING.. So, in my opinion, Taulman is the product to investigate -closely. And, an Ultimaker UM2 CAN print Nylon if you want to, and do prepare it to do.. Conclusion, Tauluman Nylon 680 filament is the way to go if you'll need "kind of" or a FDA approach. Here's a link to Tauluman 680: http://taulman3d.com/nylon-680-spec.html Thanks Torgeir

Hi vwguy16, Welcome in here. As far as I'll know, the heated build plate used in UM2+ is the same as used in the UM2 and you find it here: https://3dgbire.com/collections/spare-parts/products/ultimaker-heated-bed The brownish color around the stepper driver IC's is kind of normal for this printer. You can reduce the heath build up by using an external fan directed toward the vent opening. I've installed two small fan outside the metal shield covering blowing into the main circuit board -and my PCB have no sign of overheat, still looks as brand new.. Also worth to know is that the little PT100 sensor on the heat bed somtimes fail, and can be changed. Thanks Torgeir.

Hi RancherBob, Welcome in here, most people observe that some of the filament over time "leak" into the threads and somehow lock the nozzle likes thread lock is used -that's impossible to open in the normal way.. So, what we do is to preheat the nozzle (from maintenance menu - select advanced - then nozzle heating) up to the printing temperature of the last used filament. Now, it's very easy to replace the nozzle.. Also, I'm using copper pasta in between the threads - nozzle to heat body (only threads her - no spill inside body!!!), this improve the thermal conductivity between the nozzle and the heat block very much,-and also works a thread "seal" and anti size compound! Thanks Torgeir.

Ok Folks, Here's the question from 3D-Ya in Japan, converted to English: 3D-Ya Member 0 3 posts Posted 13 hours ago · What is Cura's Error Message No. 13? Error message No. 13 has appeared and I can not save it. ---- I'm willing to translate it to Japanese, -sure, using Google.. Regards Torgeir.

Hi fluxline, You can go this site, where you find how to repair the thermocouple setup in an UMO.. https://reprap.org/wiki/Ultimaker's_v1.5.7_PCB Thanks Torgeir.

Hi fredlaranja, Have a look at this post. Thanks. Torgeir.

Hi @tiaguera79, The capacitor C74 is a 220 nF SMD capacitor as this one: https://www.conrad.com/ce/en/Search.html?search=smd+220+nF&filterContent=1+pc(s)&filterNominal+voltage=25+V Thanks Regard Torgeir.

Hi @gr5, For sure I know @tinkergnome's firmware, IMO., the best firmware made for UM2 -to experimenters! But the fact is that there is other UM2 users, with limited knowledge in this matter, their interest is to print 3D objects.. When this one is left behind, having the old firmware while it is still as good "hardware wise" as the UM2+! They will be looking into Ultimakers web site and want to use this software.. -This is what I'm talking about! People using the printer this way is -kind of "out in the cold"! You see, as long as UM2+ is living, UM2 should be in the same boat, so to say.. UM2+ is just a small modification of UM2!!! 333 post, -really, hopefully I made some valuable ones.. Just for "the record", I started "hand assembling" in 1974, because I could not afford an assembler, -as it was way too expensive.. Thanks Regards Torgeir.

Hi @Spaziofranco, To much to do at the moment, but this one is easy.. You'll find all the info in this tread. Thanks Regards Torgeir

Hi @chuck-yanke, Thanks, here is details in pictures. Try a local model aircraft shop, they should have carbon rods approx (1 mm X 1000 mm) thats give you some extras for attachment. Good luck. Thanks regards Torgeir.

Hi Abrasive, Thanks.. This material really can change due to our treatment of it.. Torgeir.

Will do. Thanks Regards Torgeir.

Hi @engr, This is an "intermittent" open connection between the bed temp sensor and the electronic board (located underside the printer). If this happen the input signal go hi up to 5 VDC and showing max temperature, so printer is halted! You can test this by just start your printer and warm up you heat bed, say 60 Deg Celsius, then try to move the heat bed say half way up. Then just move the cable coming from the heat bed going to the inner left corner. Just move it up and down gently to see if there is some wiring problem, close to the corner and close to the bed is the weak point of such arrangement (but good to check first). Ofc. monitor temp when doing this. Now try to variate the temp slowly + - 5 Deg, just to see if this is related to temperature variation. Second check that the bed temp connector is properly installed. Since this is an intermittent problem, it might also be the temp sensor on the heat bed that's the problem. Actually has happen a few times.. This latter is more complicated to correct. Thanks Regards Torgeir.

Hi Abrasive, An interesting question you asked. Poly-carbonate is a real strong thermoplastic, however everything has issues that's may/change their properties dramatically. So, there is many variants of Poly-carbonate out there using different brand names as, Lexan -the name GE (General Electric) is using for their own version of Poly-carbonate for some products. So, we know that some types of filament will be fast hardening and become very brittle when exposed to UV radiation. Normally transparent Poly-carbonate just become kind of yellow over time, however, this is very dependent of the brand of Poly-carbonate you're using. As a transparent object made of (in this case) P-carbonate, will be transparent for UV radiation as well as might reflected by the mirror effect inside your printed object that's really increase the effect of this kind of radiation. So, darker colored filament absorb UV and black is best. Then, a few of the fast'es aircraft made have their windows made of Poly-carbonate (but not using any kind of this thermoplastic). The modern bowling balls made today have the cover stock made of (yes) Poly-carbonate and they last as long you want to use them.. :) Lastly, there is some stuff (we all knows very well) that Poly-carbonate should never be in contact with; normal car fuel of mogas type and "acetic acid" (as some silicone "glue" with this kind of smell). If you need to clean away grease or fingerprints use alcohol. Car fuel will over some time lead to tiny micro cracks. Silicone glue containing acetic acid will lead to catastrophic reaction and will crack up overnight. So do not use this stuff to glue together parts made of Poly-carbonate. So, what kind of Poly-carbonate filament brand are you printing with? Thanks Regards Torgeir.

Hi @CarloK Well, if I'm right; the UM2+ have E369.00 (using a 200 step/rev stepper motor). UM2 have E282 (using a 400 step/rev stepper motor) As an example: UM2+ E369.00 UM2 E282 INV (a check box to change direction for UM2 if needed) If UM2+ is selected the direction will go to default for UM2+ The upgrade kit for UM2 to become UM2+ Software related issues: 1) New stepper motor 200 step/rev and changed direction and E step. 2) New heath block, Ohlson block type, slightly different routine "PID". This is all software changes as far as I know.. I'm using the Ohlson block, with same PT100 sensor and same heater 25 W 24 VDC as original. I have not noticed any difference with the kind of objects I'm printing. Also thing worth notice is that, on the later Cura versions (if you select UM2), Cura ask if you have installed Ohlson block. So this should be good I'll think. The other parts of this modification is hardware as far as I can see. Thank you for keeping our firmware in good shape. :) Regards Torgeir

Hi Nicolinux, This is the actual log from Cura 3.4.1 related to the pictures in here. I spent a whole day with this problem in order to find an improvement. As this Laptop have a few applications, I'd made a re imaging of the whole registry and cleaned up a few issues but nothing changed in the way Cura 3.4.1 behave. There is no other log file as "stderr", except that I Just registered that the cura log file was made by cura, then it stopped working. No excessive processor activity was noted either, just briefly when writing the cura log.. All this latter info is from the Resource Monitor Program, that I used in order trying to pinpoint this problem. On this Laptop I've installed Cure 15.04.6, Cura 3.0.4 and Cura 3.4.1 Thanks Regards Torgeir.

Hi Carlok, Thanks for your reply, I've just made a "new" tread.. And yes, firmware is the other side of the chain as important as the slicer.. :) I'd wish there was a hidden stepper menu, that could be altered for the UM2 users, this hardware is -not very far apart.. Thanks allot for your work. Best regards Torgeir

Hi TheJaguarPrince, Welcome to the Ultimaker Forum. Here is very little information, as printer type, filament type, temperature for nozzle and heath bed. I can see this is a Flashforg. 3D printer, that I do not know very much about, however nozzle height adjustment is something common for this kind of FDM 3D printers. I can see some tiny marks on the heath bed, is this remains during trial? Anyway, the glass plate need to be "super" clean, no fingerprints or things like that here. So wash it in a mild soap water, hand warm, then rinse with warm water. I'm using approx. 60 deg. Celsius for this rinse. then let it dry or use a clean cotton rag. For the nozzle adjustment, we use very thin paper.. The kind like a note from the ATM machine is the one I'm using. Make sure there is no plastic popping out from the nozzle that's can make your adjustment to high. A good practice is to wipe of any things like this before the head cool down after use. Do this adjustment when cold, some use bed and nozzle some heated when doing this. I'm using the cold adjustment method. The picture of you nozzle, with filament hanging down looks like temperature is a little lo. So, temperature and filament (thermoplastic) type is mandatory for us to know.. Here is lots of people in here, so I'm sure you will have lots of more response if you need. Anyway, good luck. Thanks Regards Torgeir

Hi Folks, Just posted this one in a wrong place. ? Just an observation about a dramatic different between the two versions of Cura, 3.0.4 and 3.4.1 I've been reading a little in here and just want to give some input about the 3.4.1 version of Cura. I've a laptop that's have lots of strange behavior with this version, however version 3.0.4 run perfect and also the versions before this version, sure they run with some issues.. However with all versions after 3.0.4 they crash when you try to inspect the very first layer. IE. you can look at details all the way down to layer 2, but when going from 2 to layer 1 -will crash Cura. Also everything became super slow from those late versions.. I'm just started to believe (?) that you changed the type of compiler -or something like that. It's kind of weird. All version before and included Cura 3.0.4 is running fine, except for the known issues. Anyway, I've added a few pictures and the log file. The pictures is arranged two and two, the first picture is Cura and the second is the performance monitor. At the very end there is one picture of Cura 3.0.4 running with performance monitor in the right side. Loading of print object take 2.1 second and slicing 5.3 second, quite fast I'll said. So there is a huge difference that I'll hope you folks can solve. Picture Cura_1.jpg Picture Cura_2.jpg Picture Cura_3.jpg Picture Cura_4.jpg Picture Cura_5.jpg Picture Cura_6.jpg Log_File: cura.log Picture Cura_3.0.4.jpg handle first layer very well and no problem. I hope this may/can help some in this issue. Thanks Regards Torgeir

Hi Jakeddesign, Just search amazon with this P/N and you find them for about 350 Yen.. I'd just saw them when I was looking for another suitcase. (After 3 mounts here, you collect a few things..) But I've still a week before returning home,. so.. Anyway, I found this at Akhihabara, the "electronic town" inside Tokyo.. Thanks Regards Torgeir.

Hi Folks, Yesterday I come across a small stepper motor, that might be used on the extruder itself, or for some other use.. The weight is 50 gram and length 30 mm with 4 mm shaft. Not the smallest, but cost only 4 USD (500 Yen) so I bought 3 ea. Here is a picture: The "big" connector we are using on UM2 is shown beside the micro connector this mini stepper use. Specs is found here: https://wakamatsu.co.jp/biz/products/detail.php?product_id=62020023 This stepper is made here in Japan. Thanks Torgeir.

Hi Folks, Visit Robotdigg, the have all kinds of parts for CNC & 3D printers. I bought belts and pulleys from them (GT2). Thanks Torgeir.

Hi Folks, In the Ultimaker Community Forum, I’ll assume that the roof is high so I go for some thoughts.. When I’ve read this, I do not understand any philosophy behind this. This is the printer that’s known around as the most accurate mono color 3D printer, “the 20 micron FDM printer” and will be in a long time. This is the first “all” metal printer Ultimaker made, having a huge number of printing hour, that’s need to be used and supported because all this experience will benefit the other printers Ultimaker have (3). Well, I'll know UM2's life continue as a UM2+.. What I suggest is this: Why not have a special menu in the UM2+ firmware, where you can select a standard UM2 feeder? This will not be a big issue, as a standard UM2 then can use the 2+ firmware. This will be a big benefit for those still operating a standard UM2. Almost forgot, I’ve been using the Ohlson Block for a Year or so, same standard heater(25 W) and standard PT100. There is no difference I have noticed, -in my way of printing and I can do the full 10 mm3 flow/speed test with max temp only 209 Deg C. Oh yes, I’m using the “original UM2” firmware. I hope this “small thing” can be “implemented” into UM2+ firmware and I’ll think it will be very appreciated by all the owners of an UM2. Thanks Regards Torgeir.