Torgeir

Hi jockcrav, Welcome in here. I just looked at your model in Cura, using X-ray view, here you can see lots of red parts, meaning not connected together with the base of your model. All parts like this must be connected to be properly sliced, if not you'll loose those details. Here is a picture of your model from one side (kind of Z view). The quality of our model must be all joined together. Also the lines are "super" tiny.. Keyword here, use a good 3D drawing tool. Thanks Torgeir

Hi thelemurking, Pleas add a video of your printer when this is going on, make sure you get all four corner from below up to the pulleyes, belts etc. Often such a failure will leave some rubber remains (from above) on the floor at the corner where such a failure occur. A video is a very good way to present such problems. Thanks Torgeir

Hi Folks, Never noted this one, interesting. Is this the X & Y axis on an UM5? If so, is this a 8 mm shaft that is adapted to the old 6mm slide blocks? Right? I've also had problem with loose clamping of the 6mm shafts to the sliding blocks, however I used a peace of paper that cover about 270 deg. around the shaft where it is connected to the block. Done this on all 4 sliding block. Find a type of paper(right thickness) that make enough clamping, do not use to thick paper cause this may make your slider block crack.. BTW, the post it fit well in my UM2 printer.. I've used this for about 1700 hour with no issue. Using same paper lifting both shaft the same distance, so no problem. Well, just so you know about this trick. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @tinkergnome, No, no micro stepping, just the fact that line height is halved.. When the initial layers is to be printed the feeder start skipping due to high feed for such a tiny layers. So I’ll have to readjust either flow or initial layer height some to avoid this to happened. When pirinting is started I can only adjust the flow on the printer (UM2). Well, I'll only go to 150 mm/s travel or printing speed as the stepper is at max speed and will start to stall and loose steps if I'll try to go faster. The mega2560 does fine, but the poor heated stepper drivers is kind of hot.. I've tested it up to 250 % increased speed at initial 60 mm/s printing a standing tube in spiralized mode. It made this, but would not do this again. 🙂 But if I just keep 60 mm/ s printing, it is fine. Thanks Torgeir

Hi Folks, So why this kind of modification you may ask?.. Well, most of my objects is small mechanical parts (95-97)%! In fact could be printed on an UM2 Go, the most accurate printer made by UM, (IMO). As I wanted to have some improved finish, this had to be tested. This modification was easy as the pulleyes on both (X & Y) stepper motors had to be changed from 20 tooth 16 tooth and the pulleyes on the two 8 mm axis is changed from 20 tooth to 32 tooth. So instead of 1:1, it is now changed to 1:2. I’ve made (printed) a new stepper adapter in order to use the same belt as before. I’ve also made a change to the Z-axe setting from 8 step to 16 step (installed a link). However, this latter one is not the one to take easy -as it will influence your filament flow demand and a few other parameter as well. After this change (16 step) you cannot see the horizontal lines when printing high resolution with bare eyes. I’ll probably go back to 8 step as Cura do not handle such a modification just like that.. So how was the effect this modification, this is good for small details in the printed object as long as you use 0.25 mm nozzle, but not so much noticeable when using 0.4 mm nozzle. Also, the surface of the object is smoother.. Note: The firmware has to be set using G code in order to set proper status of the printer. Minus, stepper motor makes more noise, so I'll guess implementing the silentStepStic module will fix that.. Probably my next topic, if time allow.. Ok. Here's some pictures: X-axe stepper before modification. X-axe stepper after modification. (Note the adapter plate) Y-axe stepper before modification. Y-axe stepper after modification. Z-axe 8/16 step connector, where a link must be installed to have 16 step mode. Thanks Torgeir

Hi dfrez, This is Dell DA-2 Series P/N: N112H Model: D2950P-01 Just search google using: dell D2950P-01 This unit has the right type of connector, no extra work... 🙂 Good luck Torgeir

Hi dfrez, I'm using a Dell 24 VDC 12.3 Amp ~295 Watt for an UM2. Sure no problem at all. Here's a picture of it together with another 24 VDC PS delivering 360W, kind of the ones used in the new series of printers. Thanks Torgeir

Hi Curven, Thanks for this info, never had an UMO, so.. Thanks Regards Torgeir.

Hi Folks, I've just found something you all have been searching for.. This board: https://www.tindie.com/products/mmm999/ultimaker-pcb-control-board/#product-description Looks like this: Do not know anything more than found on this site. But you have to order the SilentStepStick Like this one, you have to solder the connector pin yourself. https://www.elfadistrelec.no/en/silentstepstick-tmc2208-36v-step-dir-uart-trinamic-tmc2208-silentstepstick/p/30100509?queryFromSuggest=true But maybe all this can be ordered at this same site. Good Luck Torgeir

Hi Folks, To me this looks as a faulty pressure detection overlay mat failure. Can occur due to rough pressing on the screen / defect overlay mat or detector logic failure. The screen itself seems OK. Thanks Torgeir

Hi fergazz, Just stay away from this setup as it is way to heavy for the Ultimaker gantry, only the stepper is almost twice the weight of the whole complete UM2 extruder unit. This will create lots of resonance lines in the print object and make your UM2 a "turtle 3D printer", as you cannot go at all to the normal speed. Why not go for an UM3 extruder? Just my 5 p. Good luck Thanks Torgeir

Well, -maybe it will help to say that my filament also was out of the box, but this do not mean it is as it should be.. Thanks.

Hi AACG, I’m sorry to see this problem you have here, however I’ll think your printer is Ok.. I’ve been looking at your posting about this problem, so let’s start from there. In the very beginning your print temperature seems to be too high, so why? Lots of stringing and kind of well joined lines. Also you will need to slow down your printing speed, the repeated vertical lines close to edges is sign of high speed and high deceleration before the corner/details etc. Those lines are visible in many places and tell this story. The last picture has another "story" as this is a picture of a model printed with filament that is attracted by water moisture. The lines will move randomly from side to side at corner change -due to relief of vapor. Even in this print, the speed is to high. Have some “confirmed fresh” new good PLA filament and do another test. The need of storing filament in a dry box containing water dehydrator is very important. Do some test print of some test object that’s fast to print and find the proper settings. I can tell you that I’ve had a brittle PLA filament contained water and struggled a long time before I found this out. I’ve printed a number of models ended up just like your last example. Thanks Torgeir

Hi burtoogle, IMO. This is a very good idea, as all of us want an object to be printed as fast as possible, -with as less as possible quality issues, right? This is very interesting and can be a tool for increasing a quality of the printed object, decreasing overall printing time and as well reduce wear and tear of the printer (bonus -less maintenance)! Resonance’s, harmonics, upper, lower and multiple etc. you’ll name it. This is a big issue in the mechanic world. And sure, -an FDM 2D printer is part of this “world”. The good thing is that we have printers that’s built the same, -and will behave the same for a given model to print. So if we have the “resonance data base” (let’s name it so) for our printer, we can predict speeds to be used for a given model in order to avoid resonance issues in printing this model. This is sure some part of Cura -to some extent, I’ll think. Well, this is a big issue for sure, and may take some time to do.. However, your idea using known print to analyze print quality of your printer is very much in time, I’ll say. Because such print test object do not take very long and will ease finding failures in our 3D printers. A good printer will always perform as expected. If our own model is analyzed for best printing speed during printing, we will be the winners. I would love to have such a firmware.. Keep up the good work. Regards Torgeir.

Hi, Yes, at the moment the spacer seems to be squeezed so therefore the pulleye's position is offset the belt following the upper shaft. See the attached picture. Thanks Torgeir

Hi Xalara, From the picture you have here, it seems that the (plastic) spacer height is to short (seems to be squeezed). So as the slider (holding the 6 mm axe) move toward the right side, the belt is forced to the inner edge of the pulley and wearing the belt. The solution is to have a new spacer with proper length, or alternatively use a washer selected to line the belt along the upper 8 mm shaft as it is normally aligned along this shaft. Good luck. Regard Torgeir

Hi Sammysuj, Welcome in here, I just imported your model into Fusion 360, then sent the stl file to Cura 4.3.0 (the version I'm using). I could not see any big problem with your model, but could see the 3 or 4 extra layer at the bottom of the upper part of your model. As I've also use Simplify 3D, I also imported the model in here. Simplify 3D also indicate 3 or 4 layer at the upper part of your model, but it's also indicate there is a gap between the upper and the base of your model. I'll assume that those to parts is not properly joined together as one part in Fusion 360. There is also some issues in the upper "curvature" according to S3d monitor. Just my thoughts. Thanks Torgeir

Wellcome in here Bpositivedotdk, Sorry but you cannot use the old "original" feeder stepper motor (from an UM2) as a replacement for x or y axis. This is because x and y axis use a 200 step/rev stepper motor and your old feeder stepper motor has 400 step/rev. Thanks Torgeir

Hi superdave42, A great way of updating an "old" UM2!!! Very impressing, -this should be an upgrade Ultimaker could offer? Thanks. Torgeir.

Hi NBull, I've been looking more closely to the previous object you've printed and think you should check the AA core as well, -I'm pretty sure there is some temperature problem here. It's actually looking as the temperature is to high at the lo part in this object and to cold at the upper part (as shown on the picture). This is really strange, what's the size of this object? Torgeir

Hi NBull, Just wonder a little about your printing temperature 215 deg. C printing with PLA is really a bit high and even worse due to the withe color filament. The first type of filament I used was withe colored PLA. My selected print object was the 3D Benchy Boat. This one: https://www.instructables.com/id/3DBenchy-The-tool-to-calibrate-and-test-your-3D-pr/ I can tell you I've had the "inverted bumps" the staircase as well and both was due to high temperature. The first one due to overhang close to bed printing and the second due to a way to high nozzle temperature. The combination of those two made the problem worse. This latter is worse (high nozzle temp), if printing with lo speed, as the nozzle alone radiate heat directly to the object when you're printing. This may happen even when printing using tape and no heat on the bed! When printing tiny and small object I use to print with as lo temp. as 182 deg. C with PLA to avoid loosing details. Light colored object of "same basis" material tend to have less emissivity and kind of hi reflectivity versus to the darkest (black). The highest emissivity is 1, and best reflectivity is 0, when adding those two values for same material type the value = 1. According to this, light colored material has longer cool down time than the darker. For those in need to measure the temperature of the bed, using an IR spot thermometer, use a black "color" withe board pen, make a circle appr. 1/2" in diameter make this spot all black (it's very easy to remove after measurement). Measure temperature at this black spot and you'll see the difference. For checking 100 deg. C. use an aluminum kettle and an electrical oven, make same sort of black spot on the kettle and you should measure close to 100 deg.C. Sure, when the water is boiling. There's some more details for this check, but valid as long you do not live at hi altitude area. Just some tip for those interested. In general, all color will suffer by exceeding temp limit with additional radiation heat, but lighter color will suffer more. So, if you think you need to go that hi with nozzle temp setting, there might be some problem with the nozzle unit you're using. Thanks Good luck Torgeir

Glad to hear that your printer is up and working. Happy printing.. Cheers Torgeir.

Hi 3D-Ya, I know this question is about what is error 13 reported from Cura. After some lurking around, I found this to be an old issue with Cura. The Error 13 seems to mean; Access denied. As there is a hi number of Cura versions, it will helps a lot if we new the version you are using and how this happen. What do you do when this error occur? Thanks Torgeir

Hi Folks, The 0 deg. Celsius and an ice mixture with clean water have been a preferred method in laboratories as long as I can remember.. This is the recommended reference in the aircraft standard practice manual as well, used for certain temperature calibration checks. For the boiling water there might be some adjustment, -that I forgot to mention.. Cause, this is valid only at sea level when at "standard atmosphere pressure" (1013.25 hPa (previously named millibar)). Here is a calculator to be used for finding the air pressure (for those living at some (high) altitude. This calculator is using standard pressure at sea level as reference, so a barometer showing absolute pressure is nice for this setup.. https://www.omnicalculator.com/chemistry/boiling-point-altitude I'm living about 45 m above sea level, so it is not that far off.. By the way, almost all smartphones today have a pressure sensor giving the pressure in hPa, so using this **) calculator will give you a correct value for the boiling point. Just input a value that's according to the pressure, then see the correct boiling point (in deg. Celsius) for water at this pressure. This temperature should match the reading at the nozzle temperature on your UMX using PT100 temp. sensor. Note: If the pressure is very hi, you might need to use negative altitude eg. -100 m. The Fluke 8060A is a precision instrument, crocodile clamp that's gold plated I've used in this "experiment", just to see this is the way to check a PT100 for correct reading, vs. the specs. So the easy way to do this is to connect the PT100 to the printer so you can see the temperature directly, the temperature should be only one digit of if any, when using PT100A version. Here is the PT100 specs, temperature vs. resistance: https://www.omega.com/temperature/Z/pdf/z252-254.pdf Here is some pictures of the setup: This picture show the resistance in the measuring wiring is: 0.15 Ohm. By pressing the REL button, the instrument reading point is at the point the two small clip is attached. This take away the error instrument wires can make. Here is the reading when the PT100A probe is immersed in the ice bath (using a food thermos). Reading is within specs.. Here is the PT100A sensor inside a water boiler, sure boiling. The reading here is a little say lo, perfect would be 138.51 Ohm according to the spec sheet for the PT100A. The fluke is reading 138.44 Ohm, a little less than expected but not far.. However, the pressure according to my S9+, is: 1006.33 hPa so this need some correction. If you use the app, altitude vs. boiling point you find the correct boiling temp for this actual pressure. We find the altitude that match closest to 1006.33 is 57m, then we read 1006.4 hPa. As we cannot set 1/00 hPa, this is the closest we can do. So this give us a a boiling temperature at 99.82 deg. Celsius. If we use the value from the instrument, 138.44 Ohm and use the linearity between 99 and 100 deg.C, our temperature is 99.79 deg.C. Well, this altitude difference was not that much, but at a few thousand will for sure give a clear relation ref. pressure/water boiling temperature. The measured difference here is only 0.03 deg. Celsius, and only 0.21 deg. less than 100 deg.C. Thanks Torgeir

Hi NBull, I'm not sure if this help, but I've seen this kind of problem when printing with overhang close to the bed. After switching off the bed and using glue with PLA, this phenomena disappear.. Also had some more problem with white color filament. I've also learned that the light colored filament always radiate less heath when cooling down, compared to the darker colors. So a hot print bed in this combination is "kind of a" no no.. May be if we're using a raft or a skirt can reduce this problem, but I have not tried this way. Thanks Torgeir.