Carla_Birch

You can buy nozzles that fit the print core from a few places, the main problem is the risk of breaking the print core in doing so because it’s got a thin metal neck part that you could snap easy if you twist the heat block when taking the nozzle out. the printer will still think it’s a 0.4mm nozzle so you will need to edit the line widths in Cura

A few things can change between small to big prints. Heat creep in the hot end is one that can affect how the printer will extrude, if the heat builds up into area's of the hotend it should not do. Pressure within the nozzle can change going from model to model. Blobs can be build up on the nozzle coming free, PETG likes to stick and normal you start a print with a little bit more of a gap between the print bed and the nozzle. Posting, photos of the prints and also what printer you use and your settings can also greatly help people to be able to able to help you, as sometimes it can be the most basic setting that could make problems.

I think if the forum software lets them, they could make it so people tag their post with the printer they have and that could be added to the forums filter system so you could filter threads by printer type. This would only help with new posts going forards, but it would also help to highlight the printer someone own and is asking about when asking for help, because thats not always made clear what can make helping harder.

On Ultimaker.com on the top right on the page you will see "Find resellers" click that and pick where you are from and it will list the official resellers for you, who will be able to help you with ordering any official parts you need.

If you watch the print, you will see that it's likely that's due to the PLA starting to lift on parts where the overhang is almost flat, what could be a cooling factor or the PLA is just not sticking to the PVA very good.

So far the camera is working fine on the cloud, will keep eye on it over the next week or so.

With PETG you want to run the printer with as little part cooling as you can, for parts with no details you can run with 0% cooling fans to get strong layers, if a part as more fine details run cooling fans at 50%. If its printing in a area open to cold drafts, its best to try and limit the draft (for any 3d printing really) to stop it cooling to fast. Also you might need to up the printing temps to get better layer adhesion, or print a little slower.

Are you able to spray the parts with a clear coat as that would seal the 3d printed part, but maybe over time the coating would wear off with open/close action of the lids. Maybe 3d printing the lid and then making a mold from it so you could make the real ones from the molds with food safe resins?

I have tired amazon basic PLA before and had problems with it printing then just doing under extrusion but much more into the print that in your case, each time after it happened i had to do a number of cold pulls on the print core to get any filament to flow right again with that core. I ended up having to use my PLA+ settings, 215c for the hot end to keep it printing fine so it might be a quality issue with the brand of filament, that part blocks the core.

A few things that can help others to help you are: What are your settings? you can go to file and save and then upload the 3mf file to the post. Filament type & Brand. Have you run print core cleaning to check your print core is clean? you can have a part blockage that will then start to limit the flow as it trys to push more out.

I h I had the same problem happen, it worked at first then it just stopped showing the camera one day and saying about the group does not support all the features. Once my printers are done with the print jobs they got going now in a few days, i'll set cloud back up and see if it's still doing it and if so i'll post my logs also.

No problem, this is why its a good idea to always preview the sliced file before you send it to print. So you can see just how it will print and also so you can check for any errors eg supports in wrong places or thin walls that will not be printed before its sent to print.

Personally one thing i would like to see made better is the support blocker, Just for a start having other shapes than the cube could greatly help, eg cylinder this would help stop support for round holes for eg you have a tube shape whats got a lip on the outside that needs support, but the inside you want to keep support free the cube is not a idea shape for this because the cube will also stop supports in parts or the outside lip, where a cylinder could be sized to stop just the inside of the tube and keeping full support to the outside lip.

It's hard to tell from the image being side on, but is this item single walled you are printing? If so it could be that the top of the model is to thin in terms of wall width for cure to print the top part, without editing "line width" "Print thin walls" or a smaller nozzle size so that it can print thinner walls. Adding the project file from cura to the thread can help people better understand the model and the settings you are using.

Happy to hear you are all back up and running fine again 🙂

It's the same no matter what support pattern i slice with, you get the solid base with support around it to support the outside overhang and that is what i see happening in your print from the photo above. If you post your settings in full you might have something set that does something else, but from i can see from my trys with the stl it slices fine and seems to be printing fine also. What does your slice preview show?

It slices fine for me with just setting infill to 0% from your image above that i can see matches the preview in cura and its the base of the model printing with some support on the outside, once the base is printed the rest as no infill. Are you trying to print it without a base?

The purpose of the setting is to try and print walls thinner than your line width/nozzle size, to do this it under extrudes where the thin wall is to print a thinner line width. And this is the setting that along with a smaller nozzle can help you print the model as designed as I showed above. If you want the models thin walls to be printed thicker than designed, then if the slicer could it would mean the printed model would not match the sizing of the 3D model what would make for many many problems with fit and other problems with other models if it acted in that manner. So if you want the thin walls to be printed thicker I would say you would need to edit your model to have thicker walls so that they can be printed thicker.

I see PETG Generic in both my s5 and my s3, The s5 i might have once added a PETG profile from the market place to Cura, but that's not something i have done in the limited time i have had the s3 and the only profiles from market place i have added to cura now days are ColorFabb wood fill, color on demand pla and XT-CF20

Having printed headbands for face shields myself before on my S5's and seen others trying to stack print, i personally just kept to not doing a stack and just doing 3 at a time in the basic layout you have done. You have a gap between each one what's asking the printer to print full layers in mid air, if that gaps to big you get what you have, if its to small then you will have a problem with getting them apart. My personal view on this, is that the item is going be in use on someones forehead for 12 or more hours, and stacking as little time benifit in printing than just doing a none stack, eg you have no need for support so its a faster print time as no core swapping, you also have far less clean up and a far better product without bad undersides thats going be pushing into someones forehead. Print 3, swap out build plates and print 3 more why the other cools and pops free ready to then swap out the build plates again. I was in a printing group for the bands in the UK when the virus first started and i bugged me how some was taking it as a comp to see how fast they could print the bands, not caring about the drop in quality. Most would have been rejected as not fit for end use, or cut peoples foreheads to bits.

Looking at that, the holes are to close to the outside so its unable to fit in the wall for the hole and the wall for the part outside wall into the same space and thats why you end up with them gaps. A few things you can try is using a 0.25 nozzle or smaller (I'm guessing you are using 0.4 right now) also check you edit the line widths for the walls if you are not using a Ultimaker with print cores and also under the "Shell" settings turn on "Print thin walls", doing this gives the room the printer needs to be able to print both walls.

If you could post your support settings so that we can see them that would be a big help. Also what filament are you using and i'm also guessing the same filament is used for your supports? Printers that can only use one filament at once will always have a trade off between how good a bottom layer looks and how easy the support is to remove and you be hard pushed to get great looking bottom layers under supports.

Glue stick will just wipe off with a wet rag as its a pva glue, same with most sprays like 3dlac, so its easy and clean.

I have just sliced that STL in Cura with the ender 3 printer profile and it looks fine, i dont have a ender 3 so i can not test print, but all the gcodes fine so it should print fine. Might be a good idea to try another sd card and reslice the file if you print via sd card just incase you got a problem with the sd card, as the file and slice from cura all look fine.

If PLA, just use the glass like the printer and profiles have all been designed for. I personally just give a very light spray of 3DLac as it just adds that protection layer for the glass. When it cools prints just pop off and you got a perfect bottom layer. Not sure why someone would have advise you to not print on glass with PLA and to use sheets, If you was printing with say PETG then you might want to look into the sheets because PETG is a filament thats more likely to chip glass.