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Josnoww

Team UltiMaker
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Everything posted by Josnoww

  1. Hi @LarsU, In general you can print any compatible 2.85mm material. However there is a few things to be aware of: There can be a difference in quality depending on where you get your filament. For example; The tolerance on filament diameter might be slightly off, or varying more than you'd expect. This could lead to some visual defects, like small under or over extrusion in the print. Also sometimes off-brand filament contain debris that can cause your nozzle to clog. Some filaments absorb moisture quite fast, depending on how (long) the material was stored, you might want to dry it before use. Some filaments might (secretly) be a blend of different materials, so when you think you are getting PLA, there could be a high content of ABS in it. While this in itself is not necessarily a problem, keep in mind that not all filaments are pleasant / recommended to print without air manager. It might be that the default print profiles are sub-optimal for the specific material you chose to use. I am not trying to discourage you, it is definitely possible to print non Ultimaker materials. And its not like they are all bad, there are probably some great alternatives out there. Jos
  2. Hi @wmatchett, I am sorry to hear you are having trouble with you UM3E. Unfortunately there are multiple things that could be happening. Here is a couple of things you can try: It is very rare, but sometimes some material from previous prints can get stuck in the Z limit switch. This can cause the homing to be inconsistent and therefore the nozzle can end up too close to the glass plate. You can check this by raising the bed. If you look under it there is a small square hole in the back to the left side of the spindle. It might be difficult to see without a light if there is material stuck in there. You could try changing the screws on the bottom of the buildplate. Try to reinsert the printcores, make sure they are properly seated. I hope this helps for you, if not please let me know. Jos
  3. Hi @gr5, It works with the S3, S5, UM3. I am not sure about the UM2+C. Jos
  4. Hi @rich080487, I am sorry to hear you are having problems. Have you tried the instructions found in this post? Please let me know if this works for you! Jos
  5. Hi @JvH, As mentioned before there are some problems with confirming print removal remotely, hence why it is not officially supported. If you really want to you can connect to the printer via SSH and execute the following command: dbus-send --system --dest=nl.ultimaker.printer --type=method_call --print-reply /nl/ultimaker/printer nl.ultimaker.messageProcedure string:"PRINT" string:"PRINTER_CLEANED" However I will have to warn you. If the build plate has not been cleared, this could lead to damage when the next print is started. I hope this helps, Jos
  6. Hi ddrsarah, I think there should be some additional log files saved to the USB I would need. Could you provide those too? Best regards, Jos
  7. Hi ddrsarah, I am sorry to hear you are experiencing problems. From what you are telling me it is difficult to find the cause of the problem. Could you provide the log files of when this occurs? You can save them from the printer onto a USB drive in the printer menu: System -> Maintenance -> Diagnostics -> Dump Files to USB. Best regards, Jos
  8. Hi Frankie, It's possible to do this in the firmware. However I have to warn you, changing the firmware can cause your printer to get stuck and fail to boot, I would not recommend it. In my honest opinion you are better off changing the wiring in the plug. The wires come out pretty easy when you lift the little tab using a small screwdriver. If you really would like to proceed, this is how to do it: The file you are looking for is /usr/share/griffin/griffin/machines/um3.json the setting you are looking for is called default_axis_inverted and looks something like this "default_axis_inverted": {"x": true, "y": false, "z": true, "e0": true, "e1": false}, You can change the true / false for the corresponding extruder. I hope this answers your question. Kind regards, Jos
  9. Hi @Richard1967, Vervelend om te lezen dat je een probleem hebt met je printer. Er zijn een aantal dingen die je kan proberen om het probleem te verhelpen. Het opnieuw kalibreren van de lift switch. Dit kan via het menu onder maintenance. Het kan zijn dat je print bed te 'scheef' staat of te hoog staat. Om dit op te lossen kan je aan de schroeven aan de onderkant van het bed draaien. Ik hoop dat dit helpt om het probleem op te lossen. Jos
  10. Hi @xsimplex, From the information you provided I don't see any particular reason why this should not work. If your authentication is okay there are a few other reasons you could get a not allowed: Your request is not properly formatted. The printer is not ready to accept printjobs. For example, this can happen when you are currently printing. Or if the printer is in any other status than 'idle'. After the a printjob the printer will only go back to idle after you've pressed confirm removal. You can check the status of the printer using the api /printer/status. I hope this helps for you. If not please let me know. Jos
  11. Hi @burdickjp I am sorry to hear you are experiencing problems with your printer. From the information you provided it is difficult to determine what exactly causes the problem with your printer. One thing you could try is to check the Z- limit switch for debris. It very rarely happens, but it is possible for debris from previous prints (prime blobs, or other little parts of extrusion) to make their way into hole where the Z switch is located. This can cause the homing to fail or home to an inconsistent position. Which could lead to the behaviour you are describing. To check for debris you need to raise the bed and find the limit switch location. On the UM3 it is located in a hole to the left of the Z-spindle. From experience I can say that it is quite difficult to feel any debris by manually pressing the switch. So I would recommend doing a good visual inspection. It can be quite difficult to reach and see at the same time, but with a phone and a flashlight you can get quite a long way. I hope this helps for you. If not please let me know, then I will see what else we can try! :-)
  12. Hi Flyntm, I am sorry to hear that you are having trouble with the automatic bed leveling. Could you provide a bit more information on your setup? What model printer are you using? What print-cores are you using (inc nozzle diameter)? What materials are loaded when the leveling fails? In addition to this it would be very helpful to have a look at the logs. When the leveling fails, could you save the log files and share them? I will try to see if I can reproduce and see if I can find the problem.
  13. Hi BJohan, I am not able to reproduce this issue. Could you save your project as a .3mf file and upload it? Jos
  14. Hi Pong, If by fix you mean, static, like it won't change, I would suggest adding an IP reservation in your DHCP server. Good luck, Jos
  15. Hi Tojiero, To me it seems like the problem you are describing could be caused by a number of things. From my experience the main things causing fragile crumbly like parts are; Under extrusion. Old filament / Improper storage. Under extrusion itself could also be caused by a number of things; Extruder jamming or skipping. Incorrect material profile, or slicer settings. Clogged or contaminated nozzle. To identify the root cause of the problem I need some more information. Have you always had this problem printing this material? Do you have the same problem when printing other materials? Have you ever printed with any abrasive materials? How old are the materials you are printing? And how are they stored? What kind of slicer settings do you use? Did you experience any issues with the extruder while printing? Material grinding, or step skipping? Thanks, Jos
  16. Hi Chacaman, If you really want to do this you could add custom 'end G-Code' to in the printer settings that retracts the filament x-amount after every print. This will cause the purge extrude no material. You can find the 'end G-Code' settings under Settings>Printer>Machine Settings. You will need to add something like M83 followed by G1 E-10 or something. I have to say that I would not recommend doing this. Since the purging process is actually designed to make sure the flow of material is stable before starting the actual print. In addition to this the purging will prevent the material from 'curling' up and sticking to the nozzle when the plastic starts coming. The amount of plastic lost during purging is very small so I wouldn't worry about it too much.
  17. If you have access to dual extrusion you could try printing the support with PVA, and dissolve it in water once the print has finished. It might still leave a rough surface finish on the blades. To get the blades as smooth as possible I would suggest using a variable layer hight. This setting is called 'Use Adaptive Layers' in Cura 4.5 and can be found in the 'Experimental' settings.
  18. Hi chaylensedam, Please take a look at the following topic: Did this help you resolve the issue? If not could you upload a picture with the fan cover removed?
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