GregValiant

That is the explanation for "sagging". The right side isn't keeping up for whatever reason. The main reason is usually loose screws that hold the left end of the X extrusion to the X motor bracket. They are a pain because they are only accessible with the gantry off the machine. That is the sort of thing that your dual Z should fix. The problem being on the left...I don't know. If you've checked the usual suspects that I mentioned above, then I'm kinda out of suggestions here, but I'll think on it a bit.

That isn't how my install of 4.13.1 works. 250 gives me a travel speed of 250 which seems to be a max. Other than that, I'm seeing 2.5 times print speed up to a print speed of 100 at which point 250 is reached and it doesn't automatically go any higher. What Cura version is that?

I've got a silent 4.2.7 board sitting here that I refuse to install because it is missing those commands. When I get around to learning to put my own firmware together I'll install the board. I just started an 11hr print that has 4 pauses, 2 nuts, and one 4mm x 225mm support rod to install. I'd really miss M0. If M25 doesn't work there is one more thing you can do. In the Pause at Height dialog, down at the bottom, is "gcode after pause". The G4 command is a "timed" pause command and the length of the pause is the S parameter. If you were to enter "G4 S300" into the Gcode after pause box, then when the printer reads the file, it will blow through the M0 command, pause for 5 minutes at the G4 command, and then restart by itself at the end of 5 minutes. The restart will run into the M109 "wait for temperature" command so there might be an additional 10 second wait. The downside of G4 is that it does Auto-Restart so you have to pretty much be right there when the pause happens. There is no way to get out of the pause either. If you were to enter 3600 seconds then you'd be waiting an hour for the thing to get going again.

If the problem was the right side then I would call it "sagging". Since the problem is on the left side, I'm thinking the problem may be inconsistency in the Z. Starting at the beginning (and trying to make no assumptions): The Z motor has to be aligned with the threaded rod. The coupler is supposed to take care of that. If the bottom hole of the coupler (that connects to the Z motor shaft) is not concentric with the top hole (that accepts the threaded rod) then there will be a wobble that can cause the problem. It is a sort of Z binding. The fix would be a new coupler. The coupler must not drag on the Z motor housing. You should have a gap between the Z motor housing and the bottom of the coupler of 3 to 6 mm. Both set screws in the coupler must be tight so the Z motor drives the threaded rod correctly with no slippage. The threaded rod must stay parallel to the Z upright extrusion no matter where the Z is. With the Z at "0" make an accurate measurement between the top of the rod and the Z upright extrusion. Then move the Z up to 240 or 250 and measure between the rod and the extrusion again. The numbers should be the same. My Ender 3 Pro required a shim of 0.4mm between the Z mounting bracket and the upright extrusion. I used aluminum flashing, but pieces of paper will work. Some lubrication of the Z rod might be necessary. There are dry lube sprays that won't pick up dust and grit. On the extruder motor bracket - the threaded bronze bushing that accepts the Z rod must be tight to the extruder motor bracket. I don't believe I've ever seen a problem with the stepper motors on Creality printers. Lots of other issues, but no complaints about the motors themselves. If the Z motor has an issue returning to a position, whether from an internal problem or a mainboard driver problem, then it will be inconsistent. There cannot be any wobble in the bed. The wheels (actually all wheels on the printer) need to be properly adjusted to the slots they run in. In closing (and because the coffee is done) The Z motor is direct drive to the gantry. On the left side, there should be no slippage or any inconsistency in the stop point. It is the driver side. The right side is different as it's a follower. The videos cover the fact that the X beam must be rigid while allowing gravity to always hold the entire assembly "down" on the threaded rod. There cannot be any backlash. If the threaded rod is having to "pull" the gantry down then there are going to be inconsistencies in the stop point when leveling. They might show up during a print if you enable Z-Hops. They probably would not show up if the Z motion during a print was constantly upwards. I HATE throwing money at a problem when I don't understand the problem. The dual Z drive may fix the problem, or you may just be adding another level of complexity. Remember the words of that noted philosopher Dr. Bunsen Honeydew who said (just as he started his second bottle of tequila) "Gravity is a myth...the earth sucks."

Creality took M0 (stop command) and M600 (filament change) out of their firmware (along with some other popular commands). Neither command will work with the 4.2.X boards. If you use Pause at Height you can try the "BQ (M25)" as a pause command. That does work on some Creality machines. If you have Z-Hops enabled or Adaptive Layers enabled in Cura then you have to use the "by layer" option in Pause at Height. The variable Z heights in the file will confuse Pause at Height, but a layer is a layer.

What printer is that and what "Pause" command (M0, M25...) is Pause at Height inserting?

When you say you "can't find a profile" do you mean you can't install the printer in Cura?

I've been living with my Ender 3 Pro for a couple of years now. Any printer and the slicer have to be on the same page when it comes to reading a gcode file In your case look in Manage Printers and Machine Settings and check the firmware Flavor. It should be set to Marlin (and NOT Marlin Volumetric). Within the printer menus will be a setting for Control and Filament. "E in mm³" needs to be Off. If both the slicer and the printer are set to Volumetric (E in mm³) then it's OK. When one is different than the other it doesn't work. That is a setting used by people with a couple of different printers and one might be 1.75mm filament and another 2.85mm filament. If they don't know which printer will get the job then Volumetric will work. If you haven't done so you need to calibrate the E-steps so that when 100mm of filament is asked for, then exactly 100 is pushed by the extruder. There are a lot of videos on how to do that. I don't believe in Calibration cubes. Setting the E-steps is all that is needed. I think the problem is the volumetric settings aren't in sync between the printer and Cura. EDIT: If your printer has a plastic extruder arm then take it off and check the underside to see if it's cracked. They don't hold up and some Enders have even been delivered with cracked arms. Talk about a short lifespan!

Those blobs are at the start and end of extrusions. What is your retraction distance, your retract and prime speeds, and do you have "Retraction Extra Prime Amount" checked in Cura, and what nozzle are you using? Nice call on the bike. 1978 Goldwing...mostly. Some BMW parts, 1 Jaguar part, some Harley parts, 1959 Cadillac tail lights, 1960s' Weber IDF's from Alpha Romeo. The only 3d printed part is something I just finished...the Ipod mount. The bike is quick. This one is not. It does have over 50 printed parts though. The only thing it has in common with the Wing is that they both have fishing rod carriers.

I humbly accept your thanks but it leads to more questions... Does that mean it worked for you? The Bibo is installed in Cura and everything is good? There is one thing about dual extruder machines you need to be aware of. When you set Cura up to slice something and you intend to use both extruders - you must go through the Cura settings with Extruder 1 active, then click on Extruder 2 to make it active, and then go through the settings again. There are settings that can be different for each extruder. If you have plain old black PLA in Extruder 1 and you have silky gold PLA in Extruder 2 - you might want to have different temperature settings, different print speeds, etc. Paying attention to the details can (not always) lead to a lot less scrap. I don't know where you are or where you're from. There was a Canadian TV show called "Red Green" who always said "Remember guys, we're all in this together."

Here is a 3mf file. I make no promises, but it does have a Bibo 2 Touch Dual printer. When you open this file, if you have already installed the printer using the above files, then when Cura asks - select "Open as Project" and in the next dialog, click on "Update Printer" and select "Create New Printer". That way it won't over-write anything you may have set. GV_bigbear.3mf

No, you just have to Settings / Printer / Add Printer and when the dialog comes up select "non-networked printer". Scoll down to Bibo and click on it. Select the Bibo 2 Dual. If it isn't there (and it might not be). The zip file below contains 3 files I downloaded from the "ourBibo" site. Download the zip file and then Extract the files. After extracting make sure Cura is closed and then: Copy "Bibo2 Dual.def.json" to the "...Program Files\Ultimaker Cura 4.13.1\resources\definitions" folder. Copy the other 2 files "Bibo1.def.json" and "Bibo2.def.json" to the "...Program Files\Ultimaker Cura 4.13.1\resources\extruders" folder. Start Cura. Select "Add Printer" and then Non-networked printer. Down the list should be a Bibo option and the "Bibo2 Dual" should be available to install. There are a couple things I consider non-standard within those files but that may be because that Bibo printer has been around a while. One thing is that it is indeed an "Origin at Center" printer. Another is that although there are two hot ends that look to be 40mm apart, the offset for Extruder 2 is X0 and Y0. That tells me that the firmware is handling the offset. Here is a link to other stuff about your printer https://ourbibo.com/qa/. BIBO2 Cura Definitions.zip

Support Blockers can be configured to do different things in different ways. One would be to affect the infill where the support blocker overlaps the model. When configured to do different stuff they are referred to as Mesh Modifiers. With any model on the build plate click on the Support blocker button on the left (a tooltip pops up when you hover over a button). Place it anywhere in the model and then select the top "move" tool. You can drag the cube around. Select the Scale tool you can make the cube bigger or smaller or directly type in the size you want. When you de-select the Uniform Scaling box you can make it different sizes per axis. Select the Per Model settings button and then "modify settings for overlaps". Then you can select the changes you want to make by selecting different things like Infill Density, number of walls, whatever. The piece that is square to the world is a calibration cube I stretched out. The piece at an angle is a Support Blocker configured to be a Mesh Modifier and as an Infill Mesh. The calibration cube has Grid infill at 10%. The Mesh Modifier has gyroid infill at 20%. Here I changed the Mesh Modifier to Cutting Mesh. You can see it has a different effect.

Man. That goes all the way back to yesterday. I can't remember exactly what I changed but it wasn't much. I think it was mostly things in the travel settings. I might have moved the Layer Start position to coincide with the Z seam position. That keeps combing moves to a minimum. Start there. I don't recall changing the walls, top/bottom, speeds, or any of that stuff. You can start a second instance of Cura that has my file open in it, and the first instance of Cura with your file open. Then you can go back and forth between them. You could also save my settings as a Profile. That way you would be able to select it when you are doing plane models.

I think I found a problem. I think we need to start at the beginning so before I go any further... I notice that latest 3mf file you posted contains a "Custom FFF" printer rather than a "Bibo 2 Touch Dual Extruder" printer. Why is that?

@Darksiderxxz It has been a while, but I seem to recall that NVidia had a utilities app that would be installed with their video card. In that app along with setting the screen resolution you could choose which installed programs would use the video card, and which would use the on-board GPU.

Even a blind squirrel finds a nut every once in a while. You can see that the smaller the triangles are, the better the print will look. There is a fall-off point where a model can be too fine and the resultant slicing will produce a bazillion short line segments. The Mesh Fixes resolution settings can make a difference when that occurs. I have an Ender 3 Pro and I have the resolutions set at .4. I might be able to tweak that, but there is a point at which it just doesn't matter. These are the best resolution my old AutoCad can produce. You can see the faceting but it's really not bad. The beer bottle (for my Halloween costume) is the red model in that first image I posted. The larger diameter of the bottle means it has larger facets than does the cigar. They were both exported from CAD at the same resolution. The silver IPod mount bracket has a very twisted "Loft" feature and it came out quite well (if I do say so myself - and I do).

Ya know @gtolover, as I previously explained - I'm old. Teasing me with thumbnail images when I can barely see the full screen could be considered abusing your elders. With the bear loaded in Cura, and with the settings as you want them - use the "File | Save Project" command and post the resultant 3mf file here I'll take a look. If you scaled the model up there really shouldn't have been a problem. On the other hand, scaling models down can make fine features disappear. The gray areas around the build plate have been "disallowed". The ones on the left and right might be there because one or the other of the extruders can't reach that area. The front an back ones I'd have to see the 3mf file and maybe it would be cleared up.

@nallath - Would setting Preferences / Configure Cura / General / Viewport Behavior / "Force Layer View Compatibility Mode" be of any help? My laptop doesn't support OpenGL 4.1. In the "Line Type" box it always tells me I'm in Compatibility Mode. (I use AHoeben's GUI plugin so it might in a different location in the stock GUI.)

It could be Cura. You are working in Fusion. Can you save the drawing file as an Acad 2000 DWG file? It might be an option under "save as file type". If you can them post it here. Here is a view of the small part in that new STL. This is in MS 3D Builder. I don't see the taper or threads here either.

It depends on what material you print with, where you live, how fast you go through rolls, things like that. When I bought my stove I didn't really pay attention to some of the minor controls. I took another look when I got into 3d printing (because people were mentioning the problem) and lo and behold the Samsung has a "dehydrate" function. It's a low temperature setting (like 115°F) and an exhaust fan runs. It's good enough for me. I have had problems with wet PLA (it gets really humid here) but it does take a while for it to be a problem. PLA gets really soupy and with PETG there can be little pockets of steam that can cause issues. It makes for bad prints. On the other hand, if you are using a roll in a month (I go through 3 or 4) then it shouldn't be an issue. I keep my rolls in 1 gallon ziploc bags with a couple of silica gel packets inside. That works well for storage and the gel packs come back to life in the oven as well. Is a drybox worth the money? Maybe if you printed a lot of nylon or PVA. They really suck up the moisture. Ultimakers have a special system for those types. Buy some big ziplocs and a new roll of filament will come with a gel packet inside.

Yeah, if we weren't laughing we'd be crying. Better to look at the bright side. I don't understand the "not heating" thing. Load a simple model into Cura and use the File / Save Project command to save a 3mf file. Post the 3mf file here. Maybe there is something in there I can catch. If worse comes to worse you would have to ask for support on the Bibo site.

That red model is from my old Mechanical Desktop (Inventors grandfather). The "FACETRES" variable controls the resolution of the STL output file in that particular software which is also an AutoDesk product.

When you open a 3mf project file it will have a printer, the model, and all the Cura settings. As I recall my 3mf file is the one you posted with a couple of changes I made to try and come up with what you are looking for. Then I saved it with a different name. It has your printer and model with mostly your settings. I open a lot of 3mf files. I always choose "Install New" rather than allowing Cura to alter my printer, profile, or material. About once a week I have to go through and clean out the clutter of Bibo's, Voron's, UM printers, 10 Ender 3's, whatever. Somebody from the Cura team ( @nallath?) will have to address how Cura figures a path. I only know that it's complicated.

Did you try putting a support blocker there? You can use the Per Mesh settings / Modify Settings for Overlaps. The blocker can sized and located like any model and can be set to Infill Mesh or Cutting Mesh. I think if you leave it as an Infill Mesh and select "Infill Density" as a modifier and make the density 0 you may get what you want (the standard overlap setting have Wall Count = 0). Look close at the preview as there can be unexpected results. Experimenting is good.