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GregValiant

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Everything posted by GregValiant

  1. I haven't heard of that and my installation doesn't do it. I thought I'd check with a raft because of the different layer numbers but the settings are in the correct order with a raft as well. "Build Plate Temperature Initial Layer" goes with the first layer put down on the build surface and the next layer the bed temperature goes down (or up) to "Build Plate Temperature".
  2. The print head is taking a while to build up pressure to print. Turn off "Retract at Layer Change" and set combing to "None" and see how it goes. If you load that part in Cura and use "File | Save Project" you can post the 3mf file here. It will contain the part and your printer as well as your settings and is easier to debug. Starting about this time of year the "cookie cutter" problems start coming in here. Thin walled models have their own set of problems so being able to see the model is a good thing.
  3. It looks like not enough squish on the first layer. You can try adjusting the "Initial Layer Flow" to 120% to compensate but it's really a "leveling" thing. The nozzle is too far from the bed to get a good squish and weld the extrusions together and that is why you are seeing all the gaps - the extrusions are remaining round instead of being smooshed together.
  4. The teeth of the gear are hard to support because they are so small. I think what is happening is that after the hub prints then the first layer of the teeth falls past the support interface. Typical for any round feature the plastic then gets pulled into the middle. There are a couple of things you can try. (I would go with the .2 nozzle at .1 layer height) Try printing it with the hub below the plate (set the Z of the part to -0.5) and see how it goes. If you really need that hub then print them separately and glue them on. A second option is to set the "Support Horizontal Expansion" to 1.0 and the "Support Roof Horizontal Expansion" to 1.0 and use a very high Support Interface Density of > 75% or so. It looks like setting the Support Roof Pattern to concentric might help as well. Essentially it looks like it's all about supporting the first layers of the teeth so they keep their shape even though they are .5 above the build plate.
  5. If "Illusi" or "FieldOfView" would have seen it on Reddit they would have known right away. The problem with getting attention here is that it is an obvious Flsun problem rather than an Ultimaker Cura problem. There are oddities with the Creality Ender 5 and Ender 6 platforms as well.
  6. If you open the printer definition file ("Ultimaker Cura 4.x.x\resources\definitions\Flsun_qq_s.def.json") in a text editor like Notepad you will see this: "author": "Cataldo URSO & Eddy Emck ", "manufacturer": "Flsun", "platform": "flsun_qq_s.3mf" So Flsun provided Ultimaker with the definition file as written by those authors. The "platform" is a file in the Cura "resources\meshes" folder. You can open that file in something like MS 3D Builder and rotate it the way it needs to go (which is not always the way you think it should go), and then export the file as another 3mf. Change the name of the original file so you have it as a backup and then change the name of the new file to "flsun_qq_s.3mf". Close and restart Cura. The platform will be in the new orientation. If you get it right on the first try that's pretty amazing. You should probably check with an Flsun help site as well. Maybe there is a reason they made it that way.
  7. Its Google taking over the world. Use file explorer and go to your downloads folder. If you didn't discard it then the file will be there with a weird name like blahblah.download. Change the name to whatever you want and make sure it has a .3mf extension. This happens to me all the time now as I download a lot of project files and gcode files to check them. It started about 3 months ago.
  8. When that STL file was created it was made out of two pieces. A hollow base and a hollow upper "body". Cura can only follow the model and there is nothing inside to print. EDIT: News flash here. We may have found a use for "Remove All Holes". It's in Mesh Fixes. Click on that and then set up your walls and infill. I created the attached 3mf file using a Monoprice printer. When you open the 3mf file it will ask you if you want up update your Monoprice printer or create a new one. I suggest you choose to create a new one so you don't mess up any customizing you may have done to your printer in Cura. jewerly_ring_bust_display.3mf
  9. The lower threads will print fast as the support takes time. The upper threads will print slower as Cura notes the default 10 second "Minimum Layer Time" and adjusts the print speed so it doesn't violate the minimum time. So set that (it's in Cooling) to 3 to 5 seconds and the threads will print near or at your regular print speed. You don't want them to squish though. It's a question of balance.
  10. Are you going to have dual hot ends(?) or a two-in-one-out with a shared hot end and nozzle?
  11. Ah...you're the Lotmaxx guy (I read a lot of posts). I'll take a look.
  12. If that is a typical threadform with 60° included angle then setting the "Support Overhang Angle" to something over 60° will keep Cura from adding support to the threads. On some models support may become sketchy in other areas, but the threads should be unsupported. Since your overhang is at 90° it will remain supported. The shape below is angled at 30°. That also means it's at 60° from the vertical which is the Support Overhang Angle. In the main settings I have Support Overhang Angle set to 59° and so the whole thing would be supported. Then (as @43915 describes) I brought in a support blocker, set it as a "Cutting Mesh" and to "Modify Settings for Overlaps", and added the setting "Support Overhang Angle" with it set to 61°. The area covered by the support blocker is now unsupported. You shouldn't need to do that for your model though. Just set the the Support Overhang Angle to 61° and you should be good.
  13. What printer is that? If it did not come in a dual extruder model then the definition file is not supporting dual extruders if the "machine_extruder_trains" is defined as a single. You would need to alter the definition file and add an extruder file. Not difficult, but it needs to be done.
  14. @fvrmr, I believe he is referring to the outer wall lines and skins that are 1 layer thick. This occurs in some models with certain CAD softwares (but not often). I personally think they are leftover artifacts from changes that were made to the model during it's design, but the cause hasn't really been nailed down. They are generally 1 layer thick. Going back to the design software and cleaning it up works. You might be able to adjust the layer height in Cura to get rid of them. You can see that the little triangle area that touches the hole in the first image is definitely 1 layer below the main surface. I know it's annoying but you have to admit - Cura does a fine job of picking up subtle features. Also - looking at the length of the chord segments around the arc (if it is indeed a circular feature) indicates that the model was exported from CAD with a very low resolution. Maybe increasing the resolution of the STL generator in the CAD software would make a difference.
  15. There won't be anything in the gcode that references "filament errors". If your printer is randomly pausing something is telling it to. The typical pause commands used by post processor plug-ins (like PauseAtHeight and FilamentChange) are M0, M600, M25. If You aren't using either of those Plugins then it's most likely the printer is signalling itself to pause. Start a print and manually trip the filament sensor to try to reproduce the behavior.
  16. Use the File|Save Project command and post the 3mf file here. (The model needs to be solid thru and thru and NOT designed with thin walls)
  17. Hello You can add additional instances of your printer in Cura. If the differences in the ABL command can be handled in the StartUp G-Code. "My Printer - PEI" would include the leveling mesh for that build surface in the Startup Gcode. "My Printer -glass 1" would include the leveling mesh for that build surface, etc. Just pick the correct printer instance when you start a project. There are other workarounds but I've found that method to be the easiest to implement. Each printer instance could have a different sized build plate if that was necessary.
  18. "So maybe I am using the wrong term wall thickness." I think it would be clearer to say "cross section". As @Smithy says - in that model the cross section is 1.5mm thick. That is described by the dimensions and so when it gets to Cura it is not affected by the "Wall Thickness" setting so long as the wall thickness is over .75mm. This is one of those areas that you need to remember the printer capabilities. If your line width is .4 then 1.5 can't be divided exactly as it would require 3.75 loops to make up the wall. That would cause problems. You could try making the Line Width .375 and then 4 loops would fit. Another alternative would be to make the object solid. Cura could then enforce the Wall Thickness and with no infill and no top/bottom layers, it would print as a tube. As you have it designed - there are two outer surfaces. One is the inside diameter and one is the outside diameter. If you make a solid part it will only have the outside diameter surface and the Cura settings will determine the wall thickness.
  19. I decided to make the LED antenna an option. Yes, it will flash. This is just random information... Back a couple of decades ago I was investigating the cause of a fire in a CNC vertical mill. The question arose as to whether the Gcode file being used had caused the fire. I wrote a macro in AutoCAD to read the gcode into Model Space to create a representation of the movements. When AHoeben released ArcWelder as a plugin I altered my code to include the G2 and G3 commands. Since the antenna is essentially a flag pole (round everywhere) I was curious to compare the two visual representations. I turned infill off for this since they are straight lines and would show up. (BTW the regular antenna file was 12.5mb and the ArcWelded file was 1.5mb.) This is the gcode representation of the antenna in Cura. This is the same Gcode file read into AutoCAD. As a point of interest, the way I finally got the G2/G3 lines to translate was to draw construction lines based on the information in a G2/G3 line, make an arc between them, then delete the construction lines. It was the only way I could figure out to make an arc CW vs CCW in AutoCAD. Back to the fire. The company was cutting a large prototype die out of a composite plastic and since it was large they ran it overnite. Never a good idea. A huge amount of chips had collected around the workpiece and the cutter (50mm dia x 250mm long) wasn't long enough. When it sank deep enough - the cutter shank rubbed on the plastic wall of the die causing the cutter to over-heat which then caused the chips to ignite. The gcode had called for a tool change to a 300mm cutter but the company didn't have one and didn't want to pay for one.
  20. @Smithy and @gr5 are good with the Ultimakers and @Torgeir is a 2+ guy. Load that model (if you can share it - or another similar model if you can't) and set Cura up for your slice. Then use the "File | Save Project" command to save your work as a 3mf file. Post both the 3mf file and the problem Gcode file here. Somebody will review them and come up with some suggestions.
  21. If I understand correctly you want only the walls printed (no skin) on Layer 1 but starting with Layer2 you want everything to print - but the model wasn't designed with that "pocket" on the bottom? How would you support that first layer of skin of Layer 2? It's going to sag to the build surface as your model appears to be 60mm wide. I don't think you can bridge that but you can enable the bridging settings and make a test. I'll continue as if that was correct. Add a support blocker. Make it larger than your model in the X,Y and then Z = "Initial Layer Height" thick. Set it right on the build plate (Z=0). In Per Model settings select "modify overlaps" and Cutting Mesh. Select the settings as shown below. My model was sliced with those settings so the first layer is 3 walls only and the next layer has everything.
  22. Hi Kman, You're not too far off as it's from the Cartoon comedy Futurama. Bender Rodriguez the robot. Gary Cooper said acting is all about the eyes so I put in a couple of sector gears driven by a lever on the side to rotate the eyes (I'm a better engineer than an artist). This is my printed head of the "attentive" Bender. Here is Bender feeling sorry for someone (usually himself). And this is the crazed "kill all humans" Bender. Ya gotta love a robot that runs on alcohol, burps flames, and smokes cigars. Instead of a metal body I've been putting together a silver outfit. I'm going for the "Bender meets James Bond" look. BTW the two holes in the mustache position are what I look through. There isn't an LED in the antenna (I thought about it) but it is printed with glow-in-the-dark filament so that's something. First place is 1000 actual real American dollars. I think I can give it a run this year if the suit is accepted in place of the tin can body which wouldn't allow me to sit. This way I can just remove the head and I'm good.
  23. Oh. It's a LotMaxx problem. Well not really a problem, but among the settings in the firmware must be one for number of extruders. I found this video HERE on how to turn your printer INTO a dual extruder. You just have to go the other way. You'll see in the video what I mean. There is one character that you have to change from a 2 to a 1 and then re-flash the firmware. You really need to get back with LotMaxx though to confirm that's what needs to be done.
  24. My other print would normally be clue #2 but it would be a dead giveaway (for Americans anyway) so we'll skip to clue #3. I run on alcohol and my female pilot has a single eye.
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