GregValiant

I understand the function. I was just commenting on "the look".

Looks like a supercharger for a "straight 12" engine. I like it.

The outline may the the "Skirt" feature (or brim or raft) and the settings are in the Bed Adhesion section of Cura. The default distance from the model to a skirt is 10mm. Brims are intended to be attached to the model to provide additional adhesion to the bed. There is also a "brim distance" setting that will offset the brim from the model at which point you once again are back to a skirt. Both brim and skirt have width adjustments. A raft is thick and provides a very solid base for a print but must be broken away from the model as the entire base of the model will rest on the raft. An option is to shut them off. The point to a skirt is to get the material flowing well from the nozzle before the actual print starts. For myself I use a skirt for most things and set it to 3 loops and 3mm from the model. If I want better bed adhesion I go to a brim. If the model starts with a large flat area I use "None". There is a slider to configure the settings as "Custom". When in Custom - next to the Settings Search box is an icon with three lines (hamburger icon) and it is the Settings Visibility tool. Set the visibility to "All" and those Bed Adhesion options will be available.

Cura puts together a list of gcode commands to create a gcode text file. The beginning of the list is the StartUp Gcode and it readies the printer to start printing. Then there is the body of the gcode that is the model itself. When the model is complete the final section is the Ending Gcode that shuts the printer down. So the commands in the StartUp Gcode prep the printer. There are two bed commands: M140 sets the temperature and the gcode continues while M190 sets the temperature but the gcode stops and waits for the temperature to be reached. Both require an "S" parameter that is the temperature you want. A bed command like "M140 S60" in the startup gcode would set the bed to 60°. M140 S0 in the Ending Gcode would turn the bed off. It's much the same with the others. You will need to learn at least a little Gcode. It's a handy skill to have, the language is simple, and there are only a handful of commands that come up often. G0 and G1 are the main movement commands, G92 is used to reset the extruder location, M104 and M109 are the hot end temperature, M106 is the fan (in PWM so the scale is from 0 to 255) and a few others. Here is the Marlin Gcode site with full descriptions. The RepRap site has more and is broken down by firmware flavor.

If you have the files in the correct folders it should work. In Cura 5.x the folders moved down a level. They are now in: "C:\Program Files\Ultimaker Cura 5.2.1\share\cura\resources" and then in the Extruders and Definitions folders. You might have to install another instance of your printer as your personal configuration may be based on the old definition.

"I have rebuilt Ender 5. It has been rebuilt so that it has 2 hotends on 1 carriage, and 2 extruders." "This is how I would have the gcode for Ender 3 Pro." Yes, I may be confused. Without your Extruder Startup Gcode the M109 is just below the T1 line. The reason it uses M109 is because the temperature may be coming up from the Standby Temperature and so the machine must wait for the hot end to get up to extrusion temperature. T1G92 E0M105M109 S250 *******NOT HERE************ You have a custom one-off printer with (what appears to be) your own firmware version. Maybe you need a custom slicer or a custom post-processor that will adjust the gcode to your liking.

From what I've read, most of the developers use multi-monitor systems. There have been problems with certain video cards and computer systems as the problem seems to keep coming up.

I think that's a function of the computer operating system. If you have the Nvidia Control Console you may be able to change which video system is assigned for Cura's use.

Yes, they were moved down a folder to "C:\Program Files\Ultimaker Cura 5.2.1\share\cura\resources\definitions" The easiest thing to do is install an Ender 3 Pro and use that one. It doesn't have the disallowed areas but it will install with the build plate at 220 x 220. You can usually kick that up in the Manage Printers / Machine Settings to 230 x 230. You would need to set your "Home Offset" to 2.5mm in from the left and 2.5mm in from the front. That provides a 2.5mm safety border around the glass. I think you can use the stock magnetic bed at 235 x 235 but the glass has a 1mm beveled edge and so it isn't really quite 235 x 235. If you would rather alter the Ender 3 definition file you would delete: "machine_disallowed_areas": { "default_value": [ [[-117.5, 117.5], [-117.5, 108], [117.5, 108], [117.5, 117.5]], [[-117.5, -108], [-117.5, -117.5], [117.5, -117.5], [117.5, -108]] ]}, The problem with doing it that way is your "custom" definition file can be over-written when you upgrade Cura. You could do it again of course.

After doing some searching here and on the internet I have two questions. Is your printer "Origin" at the mid-point of the bed ("Origin at Center")? Some 4s printers do. If it is an "Origin at Center" printer then that box needs to be checked in the Cura Machine Settings. If there is a mis-match between the Cura setting and the actual printer then a print will happen at the wrong point on the printer build plate. You can check this by Auto-Homing the printer and then using the LCD control to move the nozzle up and then to X0 Y0. If the nozzle ends up over the midpoint of the bed then you need to check the "Origin at Center" box in Cura. Are you positive that the printer is running Marlin firmware? Some of them run RepRap firmware. There isn't a large difference, but there is a difference. There are some other threads here regarding your printer. HERE is one and a search of the forum will turn up others.

My idea is to make the Support Blocker a Cutting Mesh with 0 walls, 0 top and bottom. I sized the support blocker to leave 1.2mm walls in the front, sides, and back. There is no top, bottom, or slope.

Whether you use Absolute or Relative (or Volumetric) the math and the numbers are the same and your prints should look the same. A 6mm retraction is a 6mm retraction whether the extruder moves from "0 to -6", or from "3198.76543 to 3192.76543". The math is always: PIr² x Filament length = Volume of Filament going in LayerHeight x LineWidth x ExtrusionLength = Volume of Filament going out. When the ratio is 1:1 you have 100% flow. (That is the reason why the exact filament diameter needs to be entered into Cura rather than just going by what the package says.) What is the F number in those retraction lines in the relative file compared to what you have in the Cura file? I can snap PLA back pretty fast but I've found that PETG doesn't like that.

For this example I'll use a retraction distance of 6.0mm. If you are using "Relative Extrusion Mode" then there will be lines like G1 X120 Y120 E0.45678 ;the last extrusion G1 E-6 F2100 ;Retraction If you are using "Absolute Extrusion Mode" then they would look more like G1 X120 Y120 E123.45678 ;the last extrusion G1 E117.45678 F2100 ;Retraction In relative mode the extruder always moves from "0" and so every retraction will be a negative number. In absolute mode the extrusions are cumulative so the number keeps incrementing up and a retraction will be a subtraction. Sometimes at the start of a print the number might be negative, but mostly you will see it as in my example where the "117.45678" is "retraction distance" less than the preceding line. Generally, using "Relative Extrusion Mode" (it's in the Special Modes section of settings) can make a Gcode easier to decipher. In Absolute Extrusion Mode you can search the gcode for "00 E" and you should come across the retraction and prime lines. In Relative Extrusion Mode you would search for "E-" to get the retractions and "E5" to get the primes. In Absolute Extrusion Mode Cura will reset the E number about every 10,000mm³ to avoid rounding errors that occur in the math. For 1.75 diameter filament that's at about E=4158. As the E value approaches that number Cura will add a G92 E0 to reset the extruder.

That's a 3mf model file. I need a project file. Load it again and use the "File | Save Project" command. A project file contains everything about the printer as well as the model and all the Cura settings.

@Apostoliszev was last here in September. I don't know if he got it working or not. We can start over. Load a Benchy or calibration cube in Cura. Set Cura up to slice. Use the "File | Save Project" command to create a 3mf project file. Post the 3mf file here. How many extruders are on your printer?

All the Ender 3's are very similar. The "3" definition has reserved areas for the bed clips and the "3 Pro" does not so you get more build area with the 3 Pro. That's most most peoples choice.

You have "Alternate Extra Wall" turned on. I hope you aren't using that cube to "calibrate" the flow. If you do then all you will be able to print correctly will be single wall models.

@MariMakes I know we open a lot of files... This is at Line 1120 of @tomecko's "file.gcode" file. ;LAYER:1 M106 S85 and line 1215 ;LAYER:2 M106 S170 and line 1251 ;LAYER:3 M106 S255 Line 61716 at the end of the file M107 So it looks like the fan is off for the first layer and then the commands are there for it to ramp up to 100% at Layer 4 as it is set to. This may be a hardware issue. @tomecko can you turn the fan on manually from the LCD controls?

This is never an easy thing. I MIGHT be able to do this IF: You have a largish printer and there is an open space on the build plate where the Z can be zeroed. Remember that the gantry will be lowering with a print on the build plate. A back corner is the best spot. There will likely be a slight layer shift because the X and Y endstop switches aren't perfectly accurate. After homing the X and Y - the new X0 and Y0 may be in a slightly different spot in space than they were at the start of the print. I would need the gcode file and the exact layer number that you want to continue printing from. It would be the "Cura Preview Layer - 1" to equate to the gcode layer number. Any variations on the top of the model (splotchy extrusions that occurred before the hot end clogged completely) would need to be cleaned up so the "resume" layer doesn't whack the model and break it loose from the bed and the plastic of the resume layer has a good surface to stick to. Good luck. I've done this, but the best situation is to catch the problem right when it starts, and abort the print. If you are able to do that then you know right where the print failed and can avoid the bad top layer on the print. The STL file isn't enough certain settings (layer height in particular) need to be exactly the same as they were in the current gcode file. Resuming at 93.15 is not the same as resuming at 92.8 although both are very close to "93mm".

This is for reference and is something that I often do. Here is the model. (It's a fishing strike indicator that I designed. It contains a 9v battery, a slot type LED switch, a switch dog to trip the LED, and a buzzer. The male threads on this model come out too coarse at .2 layer height and so I want them to print at .1 layer height. I put in a Pause At Height at layer 200 for the 0.20 slice. Then I change the layer height to 0.10 and the Pause Layer to 400 and slice it again. I combine the gcodes at the pause in each file and the print comes out as I want with just the threads at .1 and the main model at .2. It works well when the layer height difference is 2X so if I wanted a main portion of the model at .30 layer height then it's easy math to figure out where the pause should go if the second layer height is .15. Additional Pause at Height commands could be used if I needed to switch back to the original layer height. The actual "Pause" commands get removed as I don't need the print to stop. I just use the pause code because it contains the "Resume XY" location, and the "Resume E" location. Sometimes I have to add a G92 Z to sync the second portion of the gcode to the height that the first portion of the gcode ended at.

Welcome other Greg. There are two types of 3mf file. A Cura project file has the Profile settings, Printer, and model. A "regular" 3mf file is just the model. The only way I can tell if a 3mf file is a Project is to open it. If the "Open Project File" dialog comes up it's a project file. If it doesn't pop up then the 3mf is a model file only. To create a Cura Project file you would use the "File | Save Project" command. To create a regular 3mf file: with a model loaded in Cura you would use the "File | Export..." command. When you export a model the "*.3mf" is the default file type. You could choose to export the model as an STL, OBJ or gcode or Ultimaker UFP file. None of those contain the settings.

I print gaskets and seals with TPU. I haven't had much luck printing taller items. So far as I can tell TPU is fuel proof and used as intake manifold gaskets it has stood up to the heat on top of the cylinder head of my motorcycle. The ones I was cutting from a sheet of gasket material would get misshaped from the ethanol in the gasoline. I would have to replace them at every carburetor cleaning. Now that I have a way to make them fairly quickly...I don't have to.

@Cuq is the author of the plugin and he can explain much better than I can. I'll give it a shot because I'm awake. If you have a G10 in the file you must have "Firmware Retraction" enabled in Cura. Turn that off. Cura changes it's own retraction settings according to the settings in the Post Processor. If you haven't done so go to "Extensions / Post Processing / Modify Gcode" and then "Select Script". One of the scripts is "Retract Tower". The default is for Speed. Below you can see that I've changed it to Distance. The setting for Firmware Retraction is in the Printer Settings which must be loaded from the Cura Marketplace to make the settings accessible. After you do your test (with Cura handling the retractions) you can set it back to Firmware Retraction if you like and the settings (Retract Distance, Retract and Prime Speeds) will get passed to the printer to handle with G10 and G11. M207 contains the Retractions settings to be used by the firmware.

Just for a reference, I have a bowden tube printer and I print TPU at 12mm/sec. Any faster than that and I get jams in the bowden tube. Because of my situation, I don't use retraction at all with TPU.

There are really two main possibilities: The printer is set to "volumetric" extrusion and Cura is set to "normal" extrusion - or vice versa. They both need to be set to the same mode. The printer is using 2.85 filament and Cura is set to 1.75 filament - or vice versa. Once again, they need to be set the same and to the correct filament diameter. The other thing I can think of is the E-steps are off but you seem confident that they are correct. Post a gcode file of that Benchy. I have some tools that will allow me to analyze it and to convert it to print on my Ender (if that seems necessary). That's a nice printer and folks have gotten them to work with Cura. I gotta believe this is a simple thing...it just knows how to hide well.