@Dylan, Nice. Did you stitch filaments together or did you pause and swap during the print?
@pm-dude no I paused and swapped part way through. It made the print quite interesting and I was more involved.
@nicolinux Have just taken a look at the mosaic printing site. Very interesting idea, but no I did it all manually using PLA from The 3D Filament Shop in the UK.
You can also just break off little pieces of filament and put them in the bowden tube one by one.
That way you don't necessarily have to sit next to your Ultimaker. (I know your gonna anyway, because it is better then anything on tv) :wink:
It is very easy, except because it are all separated pieces of filament, retraction won't do much.
tried it but did not think it was easy at all..... the little parts get stuck in the bowden if they are curved to much... think i used some of the last parts of a roll.... maybe someday I'll try again and straighten the plastic first ...
We're clubbed together on an UM2 to produce props for a short fan film we are making.
It's based on a 2000AD comic strip called Strontium Dog, and we took them along to Thought Bubble comic convention at the weekend.
Here are a couple of pics with artist Jock (who was a concept artist on the Dredd movie) and Boo Cook who draws for 2000AD as well.
The gun was printed in about 3 pieces, the helmet... probably about 10.
Dan at Planet Replicas made the model of the blaster in Rhino, and I made the helmet in 3DS Max.
Dan then judged scales and printed them out, assembled them and cleaned them up.
We've had the printer a couple of months and it's been a godsend (a few issues lately with underextrusion, but that's about it)
There are a bunch more pics at the link below.
https://www.facebook.com/strontiumdogfanfilm
hey very good lookin stuff.
Can u share a bit what material u used for print and what type of postprocessing u used to get the finish?
Looks superb Steve!
awesome!! Great job on the print + designs and I am happy to hear you are so thrilled about your UM!
Thanks! - it was all PLA, mostly the standard blue PLA that it shipped with from dream3d.
Dan printed them out, I believe he reprinted the centre of the gun with silver PLA though - but since it would be painted it didn't matter.
http://www.dream3d.co.uk/pla-filaments-ultimaker/
Pretty sure it was just sanding and then sprayed with primer, I'd have to ask Dan for the details of what he used...
The gun still needs a bit of cleanup in the grooves/shut lines at the front.
I never thought about switching colors during a print, guess I'll have to try that next.
That gun looks great, I'd love to print something like that.
We're clubbed together on an UM2 to produce props for a short fan film we are making.
It's based on a 2000AD comic strip called Strontium Dog, and we took them along to Thought Bubble comic convention at the weekend.
Here are a couple of pics with artist Jock (who was a concept artist on the Dredd movie) and Boo Cook who draws for 2000AD as well.
The gun was printed in about 3 pieces, the helmet... probably about 10.
Dan at Planet Replicas made the model of the blaster in Rhino, and I made the helmet in 3DS Max.
Dan then judged scales and printed them out, assembled them and cleaned them up.
We've had the printer a couple of months and it's been a godsend (a few issues lately with underextrusion, but that's about it)
There are a bunch more pics at the link below.
https://www.facebook.com/strontiumdogfanfilm
Nice Work!
How did you clean the models?
cheers!
Hi,
Here's what Daniel (who printed them and cleaned them up, and made the CG model of the gun e-mailed me)
"Basically the parts were assembled using Liquid Solvent cement ( Dichloromethane) which melts the parts together, although I did notice the PLA took a while to really harden back up.
Any joins and gaps etc were then filled with two part car body filler.
Everything was then sanded with 100 grit sandpaper. I did use soapy water to speed things up but it took a while for the prints to dry out so its not a time saver but just makes the sanding easier.
Everything was then given a pretty heavy coat of standard filler primer, although this was sprayed from a gun rather than a rattle can.
This was left overnight ad then sanded once more with 240 grit and given a final coat of primer , but this time from a rattle can.
I chose to use cellulose paint rather than a two part paint as cellulose works on evaporation, so the paint shrinks back a bit, which helps keep detail."
Hi,
Here's what Daniel (who printed them and cleaned them up, and made the CG model of the gun e-mailed me)
"Basically the parts were assembled using Liquid Solvent cement ( Dichloromethane) which melts the parts together, although I did notice the PLA took a while to really harden back up.
Any joins and gaps etc were then filled with two part car body filler.
Everything was then sanded with 100 grit sandpaper. I did use soapy water to speed things up but it took a while for the prints to dry out so its not a time saver but just makes the sanding easier.
Everything was then given a pretty heavy coat of standard filler primer, although this was sprayed from a gun rather than a rattle can.
This was left overnight ad then sanded once more with 240 grit and given a final coat of primer , but this time from a rattle can.
I chose to use cellulose paint rather than a two part paint as cellulose works on evaporation, so the paint shrinks back a bit, which helps keep detail."
thanks for sharing!
it looks awesome!
right now I'm printing a second mass effect character (or at least trying to)
The bottom parts I'm printing tonight, although I still have underextrusion issues.
I hope it will last the night.
Anyway, its my second Mass effect character, so i think i need to paint it better than the last one;)
for now , sleep tight!
cheers!
Thanks, it's been great to dip my toe in this sort of thing.
My background is CGI, and it's lovely to see a physical prop at the end of it.
I know Dan has had a couple of problems with underextrusion - it seemed to happen more with the preset values than going in and tweaking settings.
Best of luck!
...My background is CGI, and it's lovely to see a physical prop at the end of it...
then you know the pain of getting an awesome model to work for 3d printing;)
I know Dan has had a couple of problems with underextrusion - it seemed to happen more with the preset values than going in and tweaking settings
yeah, the underextrusion issue is IMHO pinpointable to a bad diameter PTFE loader ( had a problem with colorfabb XT running overnight, but not sticking to the buildplate, in the morning there was one big chunk of clear XT between the 4 hole plate and the extruder. I think it went wrong there.
HOWEVER, when i print without retractions, there is no underextrusion. This validates the shape of the pulled out filament, which is a sort of cupped thing. I have already sent a ticket to customer support, but I think they are busy as they have not yet responded. at least I can print;)
Speaking of which:
The prints of yesterday were finished and... sort of.. glued together.
In my opinion it looks nice, but nowhere near perfect. I think I am going to give it a basic paintjob.
Pictures:
What do you guys think?
Cheers!
The UM2 just continues to impress! Printed this raven skull by 3D Kitbash today using the high quality quickprint setting at 215C with Ultimate-Blue PLA. Printed in just over 6 hours. The details are amazing, layers are barely visible.
Files are available on http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:289987.
Started working on a lamp for my office desk.
Printed it only at 0.2 layer height, It is all I need, plus I didn't want to print for 24hrs...
It was printed with 0% infill for better lighting effect
then you know the pain of getting an awesome model to work for 3d printing;)
yeah, the underextrusion issue is IMHO pinpointable to a bad diameter PTFE loader ( had a problem with colorfabb XT running overnight, but not sticking to the buildplate, in the morning there was one big chunk of clear XT between the 4 hole plate and the extruder. I think it went wrong there.
HOWEVER, when i print without retractions, there is no underextrusion. This validates the shape of the pulled out filament, which is a sort of cupped thing. I have already sent a ticket to customer support, but I think they are busy as they have not yet responded. at least I can print;)
Speaking of which:
The prints of yesterday were finished and... sort of.. glued together.
In my opinion it looks nice, but nowhere near perfect. I think I am going to give it a basic paintjob.
Pictures:
What do you guys think?
Cheers!
Yeah, Dan's at the pointy end regarding prints, so I've not had the direct frustration of prints going wrong.
I always find it hard to tell how good a Colorfabb XT print is, the frosting/translucency makes it harder to judge than standard PLA...
@lennart, why would you print a figurine in XT? think PLA prints easier, its cheaper, and your going to paint it anyhow ..
Maybe because he doesn't want it to melt in the sun light?
...
What do you guys think?
Cheers!
I think I WANT ONE, AND I'M GOING TO HEADBUTT IT ALL DAY!! (I'm playing through ME3 again, after being disappointed by DA:I)
Is the model available somewhere?
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@Dylan, Nice. Did you stitch filaments together or did you pause and swap during the print?
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